Dude you are the man. Ive watched other videos and this is by far the shortest drive cycle video I've seen. I got it done in 10 mins of driving. None of this 30 minutes nonsense like other people. Thanks to you I registered my old beater truck.
Yes, like everyone here is saying - excellent & informative video. You showed & explained everything that was extremely easy to follow & understand. Honestly, one of the *best* videos out there on this very topic. You're very much appreciated, thanks so much 🙏🏽💜🤟🏽😎
Drove for over 2 hours trying to hit all of the "rules" for re-establishing the monitors. Unfortunately, the EGR was still a fail. I followed your instructions and "BOOM", got the green light. Appreciate your instruction.
Richard, thank you for sharing your experience and your success for the egr and the drive cycle. Hopefully next I can safe you the the two hours as well.
Awesome video dude! I spent all day yesterday driving to get my new catalytic converter to read going back and forth to the smog shop,seen your video last night did what you said hooked up my obd2 and bam all good,just passed my smog a few mins ago here in Northern California 04 Silverado,you got a subscriber for life!!
Catalyst Monitor was showing "inc" for my 2004 Chevy Colorado. I have tried a few different methods (including randomly driving around 60 miles). Tonight I tried this method and the OBD2 scanner is showing all the monitors as "OK". Thanks man!
Thomas, thank you for sharing your success on getting your catalyst monitor ready on your 2004 Chevrolet Colorado. I really appreciate the feedback and am glad the video was helpful.
getting the hell out of cali. All these reqs and extra fees to just use our cars or own our homes is beyond ridiculous. Another way to oppress us from owning anything.
Thank you for this video. I have a 2012 manual fiat 500. I’ve had such a hard time passing smog. All O2 sensor related. At this point I’ve replaced both o2 sensors and the fuse in control of them, but the down stream one still isn’t recognized by the system after lots of driving city and highway. I just attempted your suggestion a few runs on and off the highway, only allowing downshifting compression to slow me on the off ramp. But it started getting congested and too hard to continue. I’ll wait until traffic is over and try again. 🤞your suggestion works.
More people should know this. I do emissions for the state of Nevada and about 40% of cars fail because of incomplete monitors. Usually due to drivers disconnecting the battery to make the check engine go away
Yes, you are right lots of people end up failing smog and wasting money and time by not getting the inspection monitors ready. Also with carfax and autocheck reports when your vehicle fails it goes on record and can actually lower the value of your vehicle. Have a great day. -Randomfix
Joe, Sorry for the late response on your 2000 GMC Yukon you will most likely just do an obd2 readiness test and a visual. At least in here California. _RandomFix
I hope you get the credit, I bought the scanner you suggested the same one. If you have any referrals for a good mechanic in Henderson or Las Vegas area.
@randomfix So when slowing down you can downshift the transmission? The reason I ask is most drive cycles say to slow down without touching brake or shifting transmission. Also on the warm up don't run the AC? Once again drive cycles I see say to warm up running the AC and rear defrost. Thanks for your input.
Yes, most for say leave the air conditioning on, this can be good for vehicles such as honda vehicles but not all vehicles. This helps set the o2 monitor and also the o2 heater and the secondary air injection. For the slowing down part, this is for the egr monitor and I have used transmissions to slow me down with no issues but newer vehicles maybe different.
It depends on the state but for California for example only the evap is exempt. Here is the o2 sensor readiness tips ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yn1-ul62Jio.htmlsi=FLUy9KAYoSyFnhL6 Here is how to look up the requirements for your state ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QKxDzdTVJOU.htmlsi=Aj-hc-D8KxFPUklV If you need additional help please let me know what is make and model of your vehicle. Keep me posted and good luck 🍀
@@RANDOMFIX Its 2002 Nissan Xterra, in IL. Just had Cannister purge valve replaced. everything passed after driving 75 miles, except o2 sensor thanks for fast reply!
Hello, thank you for the great video. I have a 2009 Honda Civic LX and it failed smog check due to incomplete Catalyst monitor. Smog tech told me I need to drive more like 100 - 200 miles and I have already driven more than 200 miles in a week but it still failed.
THIS IS A GREAT VIDEO! There is just one thing that I am not clear on: How long should a speed of over 65 MPH be held for before taking my foot off of the gas pedal?
Hi javier m, Thanks for responding. What I need to know is how many minutes should this speed range be maintained before taking my foot off of the gas pedal and letting it coast down?
@@rurusoo8555 it depends on your vehicle. Some say 6 minutes. Some say 5 minutes. Some say 3 minutes. Some say 90 seconds! Some even say 55 for 5 minutes, then 20 mph for 10 seconds, then 55 for 3 minutes, then 20 for 10, repeat 5 times!!! It’s ridiculous. Check your shop manual and any updates!
Shane, this same procedure works for 99% of the vehicles under normal driving conditions. Your Catalyst aka Cats are not ready meaning you haven't' driven your 2002 Ford F-150 long enough at consistent highway speed to get that monitor ready. Each component has I/M (inspection monitor) and you just got one more to get ready. It really helps if you have an obd2 reader with I/m support and they are only about 20 dollars and work all cars 1996 and newer. Let me know how it goes and best of luck. _RandomFix
I think I answered this question on another video today. Since last cleared is what you want to use. This drive cycle only refers to what has completed since the first cold start of the day.
I have a question about the monitors and smog. What if all my monitors are complete but I have a permanent code but no check engine light? Thanks for your help!
@@RANDOMFIX i have a P0100 fault codes it says maf sensor power train control module over volume of air? I already clean the maf sensor and cleared fault codes two times and the fault codes does not appear yet does it mean i fix the problem?thanks for your answer bro...
I can't see the new comment you just posted, I don't know what's wrong with yt. The p1000 is code is covered in the Ford video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j8ZFTE1rSfA.html
Thank you for sharing the video. When you mentioned 'Decreased speed from 65 down to 24 mph using manual break(not break pedal)' Did you mean using manual break+gradually and slowly reduce gas pedal?
Billy, you can replace the mass air flow sensor but why? If you feel it's dirty than you can clean first ( make sure your use mass air flow sensor cleaner) . _Randomfix
Hi . My check engine light came on , and I'm getting 171 and 74 codes , lean both banks . Do I have to diagnose and repair the cause (EGR System , PCV Valve , vacuum leak , MAF Sensor , etc,) of these codes before trying your procedure , Or will the procedure allow my 2002 Ford F150 4.2 to keep the check engine light off and pass the Emissions without a repair? I want to fix the problem, but need to get Inspected ASAP . Thanks .
How did it go with the smog test? Also, can I get your help? CHECK OUT MY OTHER CHANNEL and subscriber if you like it. THANK YOU ▶️ ru-vid.com/show-UC-wuhWwzZnFOWK-GMsP6Ejw _Randomfix
I have a 2011 Lincoln MKX with Check engine light. Unfortunately when I do the drive cycles I cannot turn off the ignition because once I turn it back on the check engine light comes back on. So I have to do the drive cycle until no more than one monitor is not ready for New York City. It always worked before if I drove 60 to 80 miles, the last few times of the 202 sensors do not reset.
Tamir, so is the 02 sensor causes the issue? Even if you get the monitors ready the smog tech may turnoff the car and you are back at square one. It's best to focus on the code your car is throwing. Which monitor is incomplete? _Randomfix
Thanks for the video. I had a P0420 code which got erased by mistake and code did not come back, reason why I changed the two oxygen sensors in manual transmission Honda Civic 2008 but Catatytic monitor would NOT set to ready for pending smog check in California. Took car for a spin and followed your advice 65-24 mph without using foot break. Helped car slow down by downshifting. Also, I drove car at constant speed of 60 mph for lengths of 5 mins each on that same day. After three trials, cat monitor SHOWED ready. Barely passed smog check. First time ever I have this problem with car.
I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS , 6 cylinder , 2 WD. I've driven it a lot and taken it to try to get smogged, but the mechanics have obd2 tested it and said that evap wasn't running and everything else was fine, how would I get my evap to run? I need smog asap, I also suddenly out of nowhere have a transmission component slipping code that just popped up and the service engine soon light is on. What can I do to smog my vehicle? What would be the best way to turn evap on and keep it on to pass smog ? Please and thank you
hi Little Monzte, Great question. I actually need to do a follow-up video to this smog test video. Basically since check engine light is now you will have to reset it (I have seen check engine light turn off by themself but it very unlikely in you situation since your experiencing transmission codes) and hope that you can complete the drive cycle before you transmission code is set again. As to the last time your vehicle was ready for smog except for the EVAP, I would recommend visiting another smog station in event you are able to get all monitors except EVAP ready, I just smogged my 2004 Mustang mach1 which also didn't clear the evap ready monitor. Below is the complete Gm specific drive cycle procedure, best of luck and let me know how it goes. To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
Random fix? I need help! Please help! I have an 2005 jeep rubicon 4.0 liter and my heater o2 sensor not warming up. A shop diagnosed it as a bad computer and I bought a computer. Heater o2 sensor is still not warming up. My tags are expired. I would love to drive to you and have it fixed. I live in Long Beach California. Was wondering where you’re located at and would be a good time to bring it bye? Thanks in advance. Looking forward to hearing from you. I give generous tip$ lol
You should watch my video from this morning, it covers this exact issue and find the 3rd link the video description, it has the 2005-2006 Wrangler listed a "2005-2006 wrangler -Vehicle design anomaly. TSB #25-005-13 Rev. A contains wiring modification to make vehicle ready." HERE IS the VIDEO ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PMcJtcSOzdk.html GOOD LUCK!!!
T Ly, you can break up the readiness sequence but the warm-up cycle is super important. You EVAP monitor might take a few days to get ready. Let me know if you need additional help. _Randomfix
Here is the video for your 2004 Cadillac Deville smog ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yp34ksJY-fQ.html Keep me posted and focus on the unset monitors.
I have a Chevy Malibu 2004 and I the evaporative system says NOT PASSED in all red! I’ve been driving for like in hour or two in city streets with limits 25 mph to 65 on the highway. Any other ideas ? The guy put a rejected red sticker on my windshield and the report paper said EVAP not ready! I am in Neptune nj
I have a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport 2.0T and the only monitor that isn't ready yet is the fuel system monitor. There are no DTC codes present. I have driven over 150 miles already but it's still not ready. It's difficult to do your procedure in my area but I can try. Can I use the sport mode (quasi manual transmission) to downshift when going from 55+ mph to 20 mph? I thought that's what you said but I just wanted to make sure. Also, I have to drive at least 9 miles to get to a freeway in order to get up to 55+ mph for 5+ minutes. Does that matter?
I think you’re talking about the fuel and not the evap monitor. The fuel monitor should set within seconds of starting the vehicle. I explain in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jEADDPcO9D4.htmlsi=H6zl1sAHtRPs1ooo Keep me posted.
@@RANDOMFIX I am talking about the fuel monitor. If you're saying that the fuel system monitor should be set within seconds of starting the car then something is wrong. I've driven the car several times already.
@heypaisan9384 no amount of driving will help with fuel Monitor as it should set within seconds on the first start up. Something is wrong, I wish I could give you more information but this could require me do a lot of work. Try disconnecting the battery for a few hours and yes you will have to complete a normal drive cycle in the future. Keep me posted.
On your scanner.. you went to the "im readines" screen then the next screen showed 2 options.... 1. Since DTCs cleared 2. This cycle You selected the 1st option (since DTCs cleared) What exactly is the differing between the 2 options?
My car is a manual 2001 Saab 9-5 Aero, currenly CAT is incomplete. During the initial idling, no a/c for 10 minutes. Drive on freeway @55mph for 5 minutes and coast to a stop (okay to shift to neutral?). No brakes nor a/c. Is this sound about right for the drive cycle to get CAT ready?
Thanks for the tip been having with my cycle run I pass all the test except the evap do you have to still drive below 65 on the freeway I did over 80 miles it still shows evap incomplete I think you mention just drive until its evap says ok its pass thanks for time reading this..
The evap is a normally the last to set and is except in most places including California. If you need additional help on this topic what are you driving so I can give you exact direction for your vehicle?
@@RANDOMFIX thanks for replying quickly I got obd meter I notice the evap says ok but the catalist mon says incompetent I drive 2003 xterra did the 65 mile per hour 80 miles o drove it just recently
IT WORKED!!!! OMG IT WORKED!!!! I failed (incomplete test in Colorado) my emissions test 4 times, after recently getting a new battery and alternator in my 2011 Chrysler Town and Country. I could get all the monitors in "ready" status except the damn O2 sensor. I did the recommended drive cycle for Chrysler at least 10 times to no avail. I got up early on a Saturday morning and did this on I-25 in Denver, and besides all the other drivers looking at me like I was crazy driving that slow on the interstate, (you'd be surprised just how many people are on the roads 6am on a Saturday in Denver) it worked on the first try. I passed my emissions test later that day with all the monitors in "ready" status. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you SO much for this easy to follow video...I wrote down the instructions and on 6.28 drove the 405fwy in L.A. and Monday, I passed my smog test. The Evap didn't clear but I still passed. :)
After one failed test, I followed your instructions to the letter. After I parked my car, I checked the readings on my scanner and all but the evap were ready. Easily passed the emission test today. Thank you for posting this video!
James, I really appreciate you taking the time time to let me know about your positive experience, do you miind sharing you experience on facebook.com/RandomFix It would really mean a lot to me personally. Thanks _RandomFix
Hi Rogan, thanks for helping all the people. Can I get your help? CHECK OUT MY OTHER CHANNEL and subscriber if you like it. THANK YOU ▶️ ru-vid.com/show-UC-wuhWwzZnFOWK-GMsP6Ejw MANY THANKS _Randomfix
@@RANDOMFIXI dont understand how you pass Evap. So on the second day you went out for another 90mi driving and came home, parkd the car. The next turn Evap is functioning now???
This method really worked for 2013 Ford Fusion What I did I cleared the P0420 code in the evening Started the car in the morning let it run for 11 min Drove 2-3 miles in the city went on the hwy and did the 70MPH to about 5 MPH without using brakes After that I still had 2 sensors not ready I drove 5-6 min at exactly 55MPH and when I got home and checked everything was ready and passed Emission Test
Valio, thank you for the great feedback. Can I get your help? CHECK OUT MY OTHER CHANNEL and subscriber if you like it. THANK YOU ▶️ ru-vid.com/show-UC-wuhWwzZnFOWK-GMsP6Ejw MANY THANKS _Randomfix
I tried this with my 05 Camry and worked like a charm! Both catalyst and O2 sensor were complete. I think this method plus 30-40 miles should get most cars to pass these codes.
Worked like a charm after so much frustration. 2 years of headaches first a chipmunk in my airbox eating my filter half of it clogged the air passage's changed cats, 02's sensors, today I cleaned the MAF and did this procedure slapped the scan tool all cleared except evap which I'm positive will be clear tomorrow morning. Thank you, brother!
Before following the instructions, my car's OBD2 system was not ready and I failed smog test as a result. This ultimately led to me failing the smog test at the station. However, after following the instructions provided, all the OBD2 codes were cleared and I was able to pass the smog test with ease. I am extremely grateful for the help and want to express my sincerest appreciation. Thank you so much, and may God bless you.
I have 2002 Honda Odyssey,didn’t pass inspection last Saturday,they told me to drive 5 minutes at 55 mph,is that right? but in New York City there were so much traffic, I can’t keep 55 mph even 3 minutes ,than failed again, I’ll try it in midnight
That's what I just needed to do. If you suddenly have codes popping up, ask yourself this. "Has my battery gone completely dead recently or did I change the battery myself" If yes, drive your car through the manufacturer specific, driving recycling procedure to re-boot your computer. A lot of things can be fixed by just idling from a cold start for a few minutes while turning on every electricity item in the car. AC, rear defroster, radio, lights, etc.
Great video bro. Couldn’t complete drive cycle on my Stang. Followed instructions from your video though and P1000 code went away and passed smog. Thank you! Going through same thing now 2 fast years later. I’m going out to Magic mountain parkway tomorrow for second day of driving. It’s always stressful when I get smog check notices. Fn SoCal! Thanks again for this great video that actually works!
When slowing down, you can use your parking brake?? What about switching to neutral would that be ok? Also I live in a big metropolitan city where it's hard not to speed up, but to slow down like that. Any extra tips? I have a 2001 Toyota Camry where the cat converter and evap monitors are inc. Last question lol is it better to go to a place that does emissions on a standard scanner or does it matter if they use the newer computer emissions scanner?
This helped me complete my drive cycle for my 2019 Alfa Romeo Giulia. Previously I had tried around 200 miles of "normal" driving, but was not successful. Thank you so much!
Thank you! 2014 BMW 320i I couldn’t get the 02 sensor to get ready and spent a bunch of time going through different drive cycles. The dealer wanted $500 for looking into it 🤬 Ran this sequence 2 times (just the 65-24 mph part) after a cold start and it got the sensor ready. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Glad to help and do something good with that $500 as you earned it by figuring out there is more than one answer. Our wallets should be the cure to everything!
I appreciate the feedback however The evap is still exempt so it was ready. I was showing the order in which the monitors set. I could have stopped driving at 21 miles and just rested the vehicle overnight for the evap.
Great question, focus on getting your oxygen sensor ready first. After the oxygen sensor monitor is set then focus on more on the 65 moh drives. Please check out my whole smog playlist for getting the O2 sensors ready. Let me know if you need additional help. _Randomfix
(No A/C or windshield; Tight fuel cap; no cruise control; you can use trip monitor) -Idle car for 10 min -Get on long road stretch, go from over 65 mph to under 25 mph WITHOUT BRAKE (slow down as much as you can then brake)
that's all i really see/seen him do. hard to believe that just THAT will work. although he DID drive like 90 miles. so how do we know/where is the proof that just driving 90 miles WOULDN'T have worked on its own? i have a black fully loaded 2007 srt 8 jeep grand cherokee that i have been sadly just absolutely ABUSING the last 2 days trying to get it to pass emissions. i have driven it like 50 miles total in the last 2 days and the catalytic and evap and 02 sensor still REFUSE to disappear. the car has 59.1k miles on it and i will try this but this'll be the last try. i will NOT continue to abuse this vehicle with no guarantees to pass emissions.
Here is the drive cycle for your Jeep. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dyYv4HpYPys.html Please note your battery needs to be perfect ( holding 12 bolts after 10 minutes with a 10 amp load when off)
@@fallback8314 I put a new battery in 7 months ago and yesterday I went for the emissions test and I was rejected. I have driven this vehicle over a thousand miles since new battery and the tech said three things are not complete for test. Makes no sense.
Thanks for the informative video. Having said that, emission test relying on OBD2 monitors has added stress to car owners whose OBD2 monitors have shown to be not ready when their cars are taken to the emission test centers. Now, they have to perform all kinds of procedures, some are difficult especially in cities with heavy traffic, to get the monitors ready. If the monitors are not ready, let's say just couple of them, car owners should have the option to get their cars tested through I/M 240 dynamometer test which actually measures the pollutants coming from the car's emission. Local governments who require emission test and emission test centers opted not to do this anymore for cars equipped with OBD2 technology. I'm not exactly sure why they resorted to that, maybe because it takes longer or the equipment required for I/M240 are way too expensive to purchase and to maintain. Emission test is no longer an emission test if the only option is testing OBD2 monitors. It should be called emission monitors test or test for a car's emission technology but it should no longer be called emission test per se. OBD2 testing is efficient and clean, yes, but give the car owners an option to get their cars' emission tested through I/M 240 or another method that truly test pollutants on cars' emission when their OBD monitors are showing not ready especially if they are not throwing any codes.
You have a lot of great point about how smog test has basic turned it a technology readiness test and to answer you question, in my opinion it's all about money and second they don't want tail pipe switching. Tail pipe switch is basic have one vehicle on the dyno and another healthy vehicle with a gas analyser in the tailpipe. One other point I want to mention is you can do the same the same thing for OBD2 ports, where you use the obd2 of a healthy vehicle with all monitors ready and the state will actually let the vehicle pass but what most people don't realize is the obd2 system has the vehicle number on record. So once the state sees a different Vin number they send spies to smog shop with a modified vehicle that not suppose to pass. If the shop passes the vehicle they will get a huge fine ($300,000 for California) Thanks again for sharing you thoughts!!!
Yeah, in nevada, the test is basically an obd status check. There's no emissions test at all except for older vehicles, afaik. Some test stations have the dyno, but most don't. What I've been complaining to my state reps is that if my truck was built in 95 it would be an emissions test but since it was built in 97 I have to pass annual obd test. My state reps just assume that obd means no emissions which is pretty ignorant. There are so many different ways obd can fail that have nothing to do with emissions, such as low voltage, or I read the other day his vehicle was completing the drive cycle because the engine wasn't heated enough. I want my state to give me a choice, but they won't have it. I want them to prove my truck is emitting pollutants and they won't do that either.
Worked like a charm on an '05 cavalier. Evap didn't set, but it doesn't matter in my state either. Thanks for saving me a ton of time screwing around with the set procedure:)
2004 Sentra worked perfectly fine-- I have modifications, so didn't want to wake my neighbors-- I drove two blocks away to complete the idling, no problems. I pulled up-hill to hit over 65 mph, then the car decelerated much quicker when I let off the accelerator (going slightly up hill I mean), down to around 20 mph-- it was two lanes so just hit my hazards as I slowed just in case, but no one was around anyway. I did that around 3 times, idled some more, turned off the car and removed the key for 10 seconds, turned it on and idled before checking I/M readiness-- 6 of 7 were complete/ready except for the evap but I passed my test anyway. The tech did have a laptop connected to my car's computer for maybe 10 mins, so they might have forced the test somehow?! Maybe that's why some don't like doing it-- it's time consuming. Just a thought. @RANDOMFIX, I used south-bound Skyline Blvd by Fort Funston-- if you ever need to complete the task in SF again. It was perfect there.
Hi Miguel, thanks for sharing your good news and the sf local to complete a drive cycle. Here is the Nissan drive cycle and yes it's time consuming ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s9PLkO-CjZ8.html . As far as what the tech did I'm not sure but a lot of the Porsche guys visit shops to enter a testing mode so the monitors set faster. If you ever find out let me as I would love to pass on this info as this smog tests are b....hit.
So i had cat code come one every 3 weeks took to the shop said visual looks fine but i had to pass inspection and cat replacement is $500 for the check light. I just deleted it and did full drive cycle and all monitors came on did everything in under 1 hr lol thanks!! PASSS 👊
You're the best thing since sliced bread!!! If I was having a child I would name it "RANDOMFIX". I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox with 50K on the odometer, took it to get a NJ Inspection and it failed, O2 & EGR not ready, I'm 57 years old and this is the first failed inspection ever, I didn't know they just use the OBD data. I read all kinds of stuff on the internet, the battery was 6 years old so I replaced, replaced the air filter (which needed it), drove 300 miles, now the EVAP as well as O2 and EGR not ready. Took it to a local mechanic, they said do a software update to the PCM, another $230 out of my pocket. Into it now for $500 and drove another 300 miles, 3 monitors still not ready. I'm pulling my hair out, my 30 day inspection extension was up tomorrow and then I find your video and read the comments so thought this just might work. I also checked the one out for GM cars so started the car up after sitting all night, ran the AC, made sure headlights were on and rear defroster on, set the timer on my phone and made my way to the NJ Turnpike, got in the slow lane cruising around 58 - 60 set the timer on my phone and waited after it went off till I had nobody behind me and could take foot off the gas, also had a nice long shoulder which I entered, when I got to about 20 mph used the hand brake to slow down to about 5, cheeked my OBDII and BINGO, every monitor on except EVAC which is good for NJ. I drove home, took a leak then off to get my inspection. I can't thank you enough, my wife and I both got laid off and we need this vehicle, I was having nightmares of having to junk a perfectly fine and reliable vehicle to buy a used one I can't afford that might bring tons of trouble. This new way of testing is BS, after I failed they gave me pamphlet that said 40% of the vehicles fail, to me that means there is something wrong with their system. BTW, I just ordered a new gas cap, hopefully that will deal with the EVAP. Thanks again, you don't know how much you saved me in desperate times. One other thought, isn't it ironic that people are driving hundreds of useless miles creating pollution just to pass a pollution test, kind of sad when you think of it.
Yeah -- and not to speak of all the pollution & waste that comes from trashing a totally good-running car (if you can't get it to pass the test), and having to buy a new one (that had to be built, with all the materials, energy, etc. that went into building it)! Totally a waste -- and just more money in the corporations' pockets! Bad for us regular people, and for the planet!
I realize this is an old video, but I had to jump in to thank you none the less. I have 03 2.0L Tiburon which has always been a sob setting the monitors. This time with your help they set at a record 14 miles! Trust me, this is unheard of for many Hyundai's Peace my man!
Hello, Now focus on just the o2 sensor monitor, check Complete songs playlist for o2 sensor monitor readiness video and if you still help send me the year make model. _Randomfix
damn brother thank you so much i was stressed over this stupid emissions test....had check engine light on,,,cleated it did what you said and it literally was all ready after one run up to 65 and down to under 25. took less than 2 miles. thanks!
Yes thank you so much, shit was driving me crazy for about a week just burning gas, I have a bmw that burns oil random and I passed thanks to the fact they don't do the sniffer test anymore
This is fantastic! I was able to get my car to pass the VERY NEXT DAY! Thanks to this. Literally spent maybe an hour total following this and took it back and it passed. I do however recommend dropping the 18-20 bucks on the OBD reader. Seriously great investment. But thank you Sir!
@@RANDOMFIX - Nope, no smog at all. The emissions inspection program was terminated for three reasons; it was costing too much money; Florida had already met federal standards for air quality; and it violated the 4th Amendment (unreasonable search and seizure).
Years of success, Wow, seriously you have made my day and love you for it. I needed this so much today after being stab in back at work today by a horrible business partner. Bless you for you kindness and thank you for taking the time to post a three year follow up.
Thank you so much! Was having issues with the O2 sensor not being ready and had tried all sorts of other methods to get to register data through the ODBII reader and nothing worked. I watched your video, hopped on the highway and got up to 65 before taking the next exit and coasting down to below 25. O2 sensor instantly was giving readings and my 2014 Jeep Compass is ready for smog check! Thank you so much!
Kay, Thank you so much for the great feedback and congrats on getting your 2014 Jeep Compass ready to pass. If you appreciate my FREE videos & research work, please buy me a coffee here to show your support! ps. I like coffee - A LOT! bit.ly/Cofy4RF
i have a question that might be dumb, after you do this and complete everything how long do you have to go and do smog check, or are you set no matter the time
Once you get required monitors ready you can smog test that same day. Each state has its own rules on which monitors are allowed or exempted. Here is how you can look up the requirements for your state ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QKxDzdTVJOU.htmlsi=8l6vV67hq4uNZSbW
You will be good to get a smog check until the next time you clear the codes or disconnect your battery (or it goes dead) so you could really go years without having to worry about this.
Thanks for the insight! I have a 97 Camry 2.2 that I had to drive almost 200 miles just to get the Catalyst Monitor in OK status. It still passed the dreadful California emission test with the EVAP not being in ready mode. So old faithful with over 230K miles will still be my workhorse for another 2 years 👍
@@dennisrobinson8008The Camry now has 241K miles. I gave the Camry to my brother. I'm still doing the maintenance since my younger brother is semi disabled. He needed a dependable car to get to work. I now drive a 2009 Corolla that's great on fuel.
thanks alot passed with the evap not ready in georgia,5min later check engine light came back on with the same p0430 code even after a new catalytic and downstream sensor,will worry about it next year
Hopefully they replace the correct side. You most likely have two catalyst. A left and right side. That’s why there is a p420 code and p430 code. I am glad you passed. Thank you for confirmation.
Hey brother, you are very much appreciated. One question- is there anything that needs to be done differently with a manual transmission? I have a 2001 Dodge ram truck with the 5.2 liter and am having a hell of a time trying to complete the drive cycle and get my cat ready. Thank you for your time
Thank you for this tutorial. I just completed the drive on my 2005 CRV after replacing the catalytic converter. The Catalyst Monitor Incomplete was taking too long to go away, so I had to do this, took it to the smog test and it passed it.
Renaissance Man, Calaveras County is also smog except. And yes it's a scam and complete waste of time, it's all about the money and control for CARB ( california air reasource board). _Randomfix
There is no problem with gases emitted as it is passed and clear but on the Jaguar XK8 1999 that shows Code 1000 on ODB2 scan, that is no error code but INC or incomplete drive cycle. Unready ness. EVAP is OK. 2 monitors are INC. Can you point me to how exactly I should complete the drive cycle? I followed your technique here and not working. Web is not clear about this model car.
Sam Sen, This isP1000 is actually a ford DTC, Ford owned Jaguar in past. Please check the comments below for Ford Specific instructions I have provided to the other subscribers. If you unable to find it, let me know and I can send them to you. _RandomFix
Sam, This is for a 1998 ford but make useful for you. Ford Motor Cars Drive Cycle Description of OBDII Drive Cycle The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the OBDII monitors and to clear the Ford P1000, I/M readiness code. To complete a specific monitor for repair verification, follow steps 1 through 4, then continue with the step described by the appropriate monitor found under the "OBDII Monitor Exercised" column. When the ambient air temperature is outside 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F), or the altitude is above 2438 meters (8000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 code must be cleared in these conditions, the PCM must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be "bypassed" and the P1000 cleared. The Evap "bypassing" procedure is described in the following drive cycle.The OBDII Drive Cycle will be performed using a scan tool. Consult the instruction manual for each described function. NOTE: A detailed description of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset is found in this section, refer to the table of contents.Drive Cycle Recommendations:Most OBDII monitors will complete more readily using a "steady foot" driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a "smooth" fashion will minimize the time required for monitor completion.Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 fill with 3/4 fill being the most desirable.The Evaporative Monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize "fuel slosh".WARNING STRICT OBSERVANCE OF POSTED SPEED LIMITS AND ATTENTION TO DRIVING CONDITIONS ARE MANDATORY WHEN PROCEEDING THROUGH THE FOLLOWING DRIVE CYCLES.For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible: complete drive cycle reference OBDII Monitor ExercisedDrive Cycle ProcedurePurpose of Drive Cycle ProcedureDrive Cycle Preparation1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).Prep for Monitor Entry4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.HEGO5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.Executes the HEGO monitor.EVAP6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))Catalyst7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.Executes the Catalyst Monitor.EGR8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times.Executes the EGR Monitor.SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes.Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.CCM (Trans)10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times.Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.Misfire & Fuel Monitors11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times.Allows learning for the misfire monitor.Readiness Check12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13.Determines if any monitor has not completed.Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor. Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed. Proceed to step 14.Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.Evap Monitor "Bypass"14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.Allow the "bypass" counter to increment to two.
Jose, Thanks for the feedback, just in the video, you have to check your smog readiness monitors yourself using an obd2 scanner. I've done this thousand of times of 18 years working at car dealerships. Let me know if need Acura specific directions as each manufacturer may have a few different test procedures. Best of Luck. _RandomFix
Passed using this strategy just left the testing place about 15 minutes ago THANKS ! It helps that I have a code reader. Evap was not ready but IL allows one not ready sensor.
@@RANDOMFIX u da man. So here's exactly what I did. 2002 GMC Envoy. Cold start then a 10 min warm up. Drove on the street 40 - 50 mph with stop lights along the way for about 15 mins. I was stuck at a standstill at a train for about 5 mins. Then I got on the highway and got up to about 65 mph then up to 75mph with a solid 5 mins of 70 mph. Turned around headed to the test station. As I approached my exit I decelerated from 65mph without braking thru the exit ramp off to the street all the way down to 1 mph. I say 1 bcuz the truck never fully stopped. Then I got up to 35 - 40 mph normal area speed limit, pulled into a gas station and plugged the reader. It showed cat and O2 ready while evap was not ready. Cool. I went 2 minutes away directly to the test station. I was in line for about 15 mins and I passed. The tester didn't turn my truck off and restart it. Sometimes that's critical to know because the restart can bring the engine light back on. The first time I went in November the tester shut off and restarted my truck, the engine light didn't come on but I just want to point this out about the testers possibly restarting vehicles. That's why I went straight to the test station when I saw the sensors we're ready. I didn't even think to keep track of the total miles I traveled but it is 11 miles, 26 mins to the test station from my start point. I was probably on the highway for a total of 15 mins max. Thanks again!
George, thanks buddy, this really means a lot that you took the time to let me about your result. This is why I love helping people on RU-vid because of these great stories and results. Thanks again. _Randomfix
On the Cat Conv sensor at INC from the recent replacement of the battery on my 2003 Mercedes Benz E320, I did everything you suggested including 14 times the drive cycle but couldn't clear it. In fact, I even tried the hold for 3mins @3000 RPM per your other video for my E320 and that didn't work neither. Then I tried what the Poway Smog Station people suggested "drive cruising at about 55 mph for a while" so my wife and I cruised from San Marcos to Temecula wine country to Hemet. Checked the car while stopping to get food there and sure enough. It cleared!! Smog passed today!!
Hello! I have a 2012 scion xb that I can't seem to get my OBDII working on . Where are you in CA? Can I come to you to fix it? I am also trying to figure out where to drive that I can get up to these speeds easily in the bay area. I've tried the freeway in the early hours of the am but it doesn't work. Please help. I'm desperate. Thank you
Tiger, how did it got with your method of lifting the drive wheels? ( This is isn't good for the car however it would be cool if you got it pass this way). Keep me updated. Can I get your help? CHECK OUT MY OTHER CHANNEL and subscriber if you like it. THANK YOU ▶️ ru-vid.com/show-UC-wuhWwzZnFOWK-GMsP6Ejw MANY THANKS _Randomfix
Yes follow the same direction. If you want a more detailed video that breaks down the specifics steps for Toyota try this video instead ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EKfEr2LP2Nw.html Good luck and keep me in the loop
