One of the best videos I've seen on the subject. Well presented too, not a lot of unnecessary commentary, just the important facts. You have even communicated the issues involved with dual technology sensors in the commentary below. I advise against the dual technology smokes/CO units as well. I'm now subscribed to your channel!
There are a couple of ways install both technology detectors: Install both ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms side by side Replace your existing smokes with dual sensor devices. [see note below] Consider installing carbon monoxide [CO] detectors as well Note on Dual Smoke Alarms The IAFF recommends against installing Ionization vs. Photoelectric combination alarms. To combat nuisance tripping, manufacturers often reduce or desensitize the smoke sensitivity of ionization sensor. There are also no industry standards for setting the individual sensor sensitivity in dual sensor alarms. This means that a dual sensor alarm could have a non-functional ionization sensor, but as long as the photoelectric sensor works, it still meets the national standards developed by Underwriters Laboratories (UL).
Didn't know about the different types.Explains why the one by the kitchen goes off everytime I make toast. Looked at it and it's the wrong one.Thanks for the great info!
As an low voltage electrician (someone who installs Alarms, surveillance, home theater and communication cabling since 1999) the photoelectric sensors in conjunction with heat detectors in places where you can't put smoke detectors without nuisance alarms do to dust contamination like attics, garages, utility rooms and even kitchens as well as sheds (these being also where open blazes are likely to take place) amazing tools to have as well.
Yes, I have also serviced dictograph alarm systems (in a pole barn) that are older than I am that are still running on the heat detectors that were installed in 1968. The fact that there are relatively inexpensive and have no expiration date, it is a win-win.
Thanks Rob, I knew there were different types, but didn't understand the difference. This is valuable information and considering the relatively low cost to ensure safety I'm going to check which I have and buy some of the others. I suspect they are the ionization type because I recall them having a warning about radioactive material. Thanks!
Here are a few tips to keep you safe: Ensure all smoke detectors have batteries and change them yearly Install smoke detectors according to code, in the correct locations Clean smoke alarms by vacuuming the outside surfaces Replace your smoke alarms every 10-years or less Consider hard-wiring your smoke alarms and use battery back up units Do not paint your smoke alarms.
In the country where i live (try to guess where), most smoke alarm manufacturers have stopped making ionisation detectors (in fact ionisation detectors have been banned in some countries, although as far as i know, they have not been banned in the country where i live at the time i write this, they might be planning on banning this type of detector in the future though) And the regulations here promote the use of multi sensor detectors (which are a combination of an optical smoke detector and a heat detector) in all locations apart from the kitchen (smoke detectors are not allowed in the kitchen where i live, instead heat detectors are used), those regulations recommended the use of optical detectors at a bare minimum (apart from the kitchen, for reasons which should already be clear) And in Scotland, the regulations were recently changed to require smoke detectors in all hallways and landings on all floors, a smoke detector in the main room (usually the living room), and a heat detector in the kitchen, all detectors either be mains powered (with battery backup), or have a 10 year sealed battery, and all detectors must be linked, so if one goes off they all go off And just incase anyone is trying to figure out what an optical detector is, for whatever reason photoelectric detectors are called optical detectors where i live
Herman Harris thanks,, Here are a few tips to keep you safe: Ensure all smoke detectors have batteries and change them yearly Install smoke detectors according to code, in the correct locations Clean smoke alarms by vacuuming the outside surfaces Replace your smoke alarms every 10-years or less Consider hard-wiring your smoke alarms and use battery back up units Do not paint your smoke alarms.
In your video you quote the “fact” that ionization alarms are 5 to 50 minutes slower at detecting smoldering fires. I’ve read the test reports that this “fact” was derived from. The truth is that in some tests that the ionization alarm did not trigger and the photoelectric alarm did trigger. In those tests the ionization alarm was indeed slower - as never going off is slower than any earlier time that works. But those tests were not used to derive the 5 to 50 numbers. They were ignored. The 5 to 50 numbers come from other tests where both ionization and photoelectric triggered. So, a better summary of the results would be to say: In smoldering fires ionization alarms go off 5 to 50 minutes later than photoelectric alarms, when they both go off at all. But in some smoldering fires only photoelectric alarms are triggered and ionization alarms don’t ever go off. Meaning if you are sleeping when this type of fire occurs and you are “protected” by ionization alarms you will not hear a beeping before you are dead. Summary.: photoelectric- good protection. Ionization- insufficient protection.
Do you mean (in the last sentence) that if you’re sleeping when a fire starts, that you’re more likely to die before the “ALARM” goes off? Instead of “beeping”, in which you wrote?
@@AnitasLoveify sorry if I was unclear. Alarms typically make two sounds: 1) a chirp 2) a beep. And each of those can be made in repeated tones with a pause. For example a single chirp means the battery is low. Four beeps means CO is detected. Three beeps means smoke is detected. So, your comment saying “alarm goes off” is ambiguous because a chirp is the alarm going off just like a beep is. I meant beep to mean the sound the alarm makes when it detects smoke.
I just want to point out that the beeping after the intro is from a carbon monoxide detector. Smoke detectors either use code-3 (beep-beep-beep-pause-repeat) or march-time (beep-beep-beep-repeat) depending on the model/brand.
No good in flats. If the flat below has a fire then an ionized smoke alarm is more efficiant for detecting smoke rather than waiting for a flame to reach your flat.
Good video. However, the leading cause of death in a fire is asphyxiation over smoke inhalation. As the fire burns it consumes the oxygen in the house. A person can asphyxiate before the smoke or flakes reach them. Following minimum standard, placing smoke detectors only where they can go in a house means there’s no protection in your utility room, laundry room, kitchen, garage, or attic. For full protection, a house should have heat sensors in all of these places, interconnected with dual photoelectric/rate of rise smoke detectors.
There’s another type of fire detector you didn’t touch on. I have heat detectors in my cabinet shop. They trip when a room gets to a specific temperature. The shop isn’t near houses and the primary purpose of the alarm is to protect property, not life. Since it’s my business we’re always awake when in the building. We also have numerous egress points and nine 10lb abc fire extinguishers. The heat detectors won’t get messed up by fine sawdust blocking the sensors. I have them in the rafters so it would be hard to clean a regular smoke detector. I also have a heat detector in my spray room where overspray sometimes gets on it.
Great point - I also didn't discuss CO detectors or combo units - I just wanted people to be aware that the 15-20 year old smokes in their house have to be replaced
Thanks for your video.We focus on Smart Sensor Alarms, hoping to provide safety protection for more people, smoke alarms, carbon monoxide alarms, Door Sensor,motion sensor，etc.A small item may be able to help many families stay away from disasters.
Good presentation on an important issue. Two comments. Correct name is National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). Correct pronunciation is am er ee cee um.
You should make a note of the date of manufacture if possible, not the purchase/install date and always, fit a companion heat detector with the smoke detector … buy a power cell unit that doesn't have a replaceable battery in it, if they are standalone types (not mains powered) to prevent tamper … UK Fire guy checking out, good video btw …. kisses xxx
Yes they are interconnected hardwired alarms with battery backup and have been required in new construction of dwelling units for some years now. They require a power source to one alarm, and from there each alarm is tied together using a 3 wire plus ground cable, 14/3 NM is the most commonly used for this application. The black and white are hot and neutral respectively and power the alarms and the red is used as the signal wire, so if one detector senses smoke or carbon monoxide all the alarms sound.
Great video. All our home detectors are battery powered only and due for expiration. Can someone advise which is better to buy? Hard to choose due to bad reviews on Amazon.
Great Video, my alarms are 14 years old and I'm going to replace them. Lately the ones close to my kitchen will go off even when using the toaster. Mine are hard wired and battery backup. I have a one story three bedroom home and they installed 8 alarms when built, do I need to keep all eight? Thanks
I tested a BRAND NEW ionisation Smoke Detector by burning some paper under it and it DOESN'T trigger the alarm. WHAT THE HELL!?! The test button works perfectly. Loud as hell. But, it isn't actually DETECTING SMOKE! I held a lighter to some paper and let the smoke go right into the vents.. nothing... Does it have to be a HARDCORE FLAMING FIRE? Model is, QUELL Q946.
@@advancehomehealthandsafety3366 Huh? What does that have to do with his question? I'm curious too as that seems so odd that the smoke went right up to the vents of his detector and..........(drum roll) .........not a peep!
@@kylehill3643 The point is that even though the horn works, that doesn’t mean the device is effective. The smoke particles have to create a barrier through which the ions cannot pass in order for the detector to work effectively. If the particles are too small, too large, or too widely spaced, they won’t create this barrier and therefore the detector won’t sound - and your family won’t be warned. Get a better smoke detector. Ionization alarms fail 55% of the time, yet they’re the industry standard. It’s pretty disgusting actually.
And when I first moved into my next house with my parents that was a heat detector and smoke detector that wasn’t hooked up the correct way because the red light wasn’t on
I live alone and am 76 years old and short. I can’t reach it when it goes off and it happens constantly (well, a lot) when I cook and irritates me so much that I want to just pull the batteries. (There are 3 in my house & they all go off.)
So, what are your thoughts on smoke alarms that advertises to have both types of sensors, such as the First Response smoke alarms+carbon monoxide detectors and the Nest Smoke alarms?
Gabriela Saravia, actually, your call was spot on, and I noted the same. He should have said, 'depending on the *type* of the fire, [flaming] or [smoldering] (smoke) fire'.
I think you should stick to the hammer and nails and leave the smoke detectors to the professionals. I installed 16 hardwired interconnected ionization type smoke alarms in my home. I never had a false alarm in 21 years. In the kitchen and laundry room I used the temperature alarms which activate when temperature exceeds either 135° or 15° in one minute. Never had a false alarm. The only time the alarms sounded was when they were supposed to. Just by cutting a 2 x 4 with a chopsaw would set them off, which shows you how reliable they are, and once with a puff back from the furnace. in 1999 they did not have the requirement for the goofy battery. That’s why mine worked so well. Batteries are notorious for leaking corroding, and most importantly, producing false alarms, which most people usually just disconnect the damn thing all together. Now they’re mandating replacing all of your smoke alarms every 10 years even though the radioactive material is good for 450 years. for now, I’ll just keep blowing The dust out of mine, once a year and let the next guy worry 429 years from now.😉
A Concord Carpenter / ToolBoxBuzz ordering a few more for my home. Have been an owner of 2 but my only issue is that they are extremely expensive. But the nice thing is that when there is a smoke detection all of then speak and say where it is and talk together which is why I am ordering more. Had to save for it. I would be very interested to see a professionals take on them. If you can get your hands on them I would love to know what you think of them. Thanks for the informative videos.
robert jr I like the nest protect smoke alarm because it’s a photoelectric detector. But it’s not without its faults. Many other brands of smoke alarm have warranties that last the life of the alarm. But nest warranty is just one year. So, for an alarm that is very expensive you could need to buy a new one much sooner. I bought my alarms from a different manufacturer and have a 10 year warranty. I’ve already had more than one failure and my replacements didn’t cost me a penny. The other problem with the nest is the interconnect doesn’t work with any other brand. So if you are replacing old interconnected alarms you can’t do just some with nest - you need to replace all of them at once or else you loose interconnect feature. If you are ok with these limitations then I highly recommend nest.
@@ConcordCarpenter thanks for the reply. I appreciate the quality videos you guys make. According to my research gentex makes good smoke detectors often used for hotels, schools, etc. Where nuisance tripping and malfunction are even more annoying.
Matt Robin There are a couple of ways install both technology detectors: Install both ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms side by side Replace your existing smokes with dual sensor devices. [see note below] Consider installing carbon monoxide [CO] detectors as well Note on Dual Smoke Alarms The IAFF recommends against installing Ionization vs. Photoelectric combination alarms. To combat nuisance tripping, manufacturers often reduce or desensitize the smoke sensitivity of ionization sensor. There are also no industry standards for setting the individual sensor sensitivity in dual sensor alarms. This means that a dual sensor alarm could have a non-functional ionization sensor, but as long as the photoelectric sensor works, it still meets the national standards developed by Underwriters Laboratories (UL).
You said in the video that one reason to replace alarms at 10 years is because “they” are coming out with new technology all the time and newer is better. In reality, many manufacturers sell the same alarm model year after year and not much changes. But that is all about to change soon- new UL rules go into effect in May 2020 and all new alarms sold after then must meet the new more strict requirements. In my house I have all photoelectric type in every room. I don’t use ionization because of the higher false alarm rate and because they don’t work reliably for smoldering fires.
Im so happy than ionization alarms are banned here in germany. We only have photoelectric. Nobody can accidentaly buy an alarm that might never go off before its too late...
aloha, please pass along to whomever is the poindexter\Einstein at first alert..... all smoke detectors and co2 combo's need a remote control switch at light switch level in the house. Like the garage door openers have the switch w wires to open and close. This way nobody has to climb a ladder or chair to push a button. HELLO>... WTF.. duh... There should be no need to touch the unit itself, especially if they are gonna wire these together for 2 or more. Make a remote to have an "all off button" and a "Silence button" and the "Test Button" on a panel next to it or somewhere lower so nobody has to climb up the vaulted ceilings at midnight, and so after you find there's no fire, you can go back to bed and deal with it the next day. Trying to get up from sleep bc the damn thing goes off and dealing with it groggy or medicated on a chair or ladder is more liability than the fire or CO2. Do I have to think of everything.... sweet dreams...Jesus H C people think already
While I agree with the difficulty aspect of testing and silencing the units, an "all off" feature would be catastrophic when someone forgets to restore power.
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