@@mrfairsthename7470 mate i have a 330d. It’s nothing special and certainly not expensive and although it’s thoroughly reliable and safe it’s so boring. It has no character just like any other mass production car. It’s quick don’t get me wrong but it’s like any other car in the car park😒
If you look on most modern(ish) cars Ian, there's a little arrow next to the petrol pump logo indicating the correct side for the fuel filler. It's one of those things hidden in plain sight, that people often overlook.
Yes the wife pointed that out to me. Think she read it in one of those articles on everyday things you don’t know the use for, like hooks or signs in certain places, that no one ever questions what they exist for😂
In my 2007 BMW 1-series (with the same M47 engine as Rita the Rover, which is what led me to this channel), there is a fuel pump graphic on the right side of the horizontal fuel gauge, the same side as the filler. It's rumoured that if the fuel gauge is vertical, it should itself be on the same side as the filler. I can't confirm that, since I haven't flipped my car on its side yet.
That Molybdenum Disulphide engine additive is excellent. I've used it in all my engines, big and small, for at least the past decade. I used it in my AU Falcon and I now use it in my PSA 2.0 HDi, Mercedes M104 (in a W140) and Hyundai GDi. I also add it to diffs (non LSD) and power steering systems and have done this entire time with excellent results. Edit: I should probably add that being a solid lubricant, it can also take up to 500 miles before you notice any differences as it takes time for pressure and heat cylces to plate the metal surfaces within the engine.
Catalytic converters can tolerate an incredible amount of burnt motor oil. I do a lot of emissions tests in my workshop (I am a certified German MOT garage) and sometimes I come across hybrid-cars (running on engine oil and fuel) which produce excellent results on the emissions tester. The last car I remember was a Mazda 626 which needed more than two liters of Oil every 1000kilometers according to the owner. It passed the emissions test first try with every reading "in the green".
Back in the late seventies I used Wynns products that were meant to fix oil seals and oil burning issues. It seemed that they worked ok for a while, just long enough to sell the vehicles. 😜
I cringe when anyone says "I put some engine flush in to remove the crap". It works as a product to dissolve stuff, but when it doesnt it moves the oil clumps near oil passageways and bearing oil holes. Not a wise idea. A friend scrapped a car after using engine flush as the engine has oil starvation issues... it made the situation worse. Plus on an older car these oil clumps help to seal the engine gaskets and sometimes piston rings (the opposite may be happening on this car). When a flush is used customers noted burning oil out the exhaust which wasnt there before and leaks that had never occured before out of the sump gasket. The best way of dealing with sludge is multiple-quick-sucession oil changes. More expensive but it works! Modern oils contain cleaners but unfortunately people dont stick to servicing and that leaves a problem for someone down the line. This is where additives are a cheaper, attractive but risky proposition.
Take numberplate off and if same as a Cuore there's a gap in the bumper specifically for oil filter access. Your 'after potions' smoke level is fairly similar to my Cuore's at MOT failure point. Mine wasn't obviously smoking when driving, but when left at idle or revved it did. Oil burning+ potentially contaminated cat isn't a good mix.
I get that comment. While it's good to see a professional with all the tools,bells and whistles. It's also good to see somebody working on the floor and winging it.
Enjoyed watching this. Every time you revved it I literally held my breath in anticipation of whether smoke would still be coming out or not. Glad the 'potions' helped. Really wish Daihatsu still sold cars here especially the little Mira.
More like “0-60.... eventually” or like “shitbox edition” or the most fun one “it’s quick not fast” (mine is “NANI ?!” It means what the hell?! in Japanese it’s also a phrase that’s common in initial D)
Great video, spread over a couple of days, tackling more than one issue, and best of all, not labouring on for too many minutes outlining what you intended to do, and product placing the items too much. Other vloggers could learn alot from this format, and learn to remember, we as viewers can re-watch a section, or the entire video, if we happened to miss a products full name or use. Beyond that....It was very entertaining too. Thank you.
What a good bit of tinkering session within this video. The products have provided you a little help with cleaning the system. Keep going and have some fun 😁.
Good placement of the rear lights, much closer to the following drivers eyeline, a fraction of a second can make a big difference as to wether you have a bad day or not
500 mixed usage miles letting the car warm up gradually gave me a 98% improvement. Watching some of the various Liqui Moly tests by independent youtubers you can see what the various additives are doing. Would highly recommend the engine protector they provided as it leaves deposits in any scored components and reduces friction which helps seals to do their job. Also it treats upto 5L so I would have added 90-100% of the additives especially as some contain heavier metals in suspension. Look forward to the next installment.
It would be interesting to see if its smokey downhill on the overrun, that's the test for valve stem oil seals, but smoke when revving is much more likely rings. If they're stuck and you've found an additive to fix that, well done, but if its wear then its rebuild time, methinks. Cant see it passing MOT the way it seems at present. Interesting to see if the plugs are oily when you change them, may as well do a compression test at the same time. Anyway all good viewing!
I can't see smoke on the overrun. I did leave it idling a bit today, and there was then a mighty cloud of smoke when I pulled away. Plugs looked old rather than oily.
All new cars sold in the US have had those little fuel direction arrows for at least the past couple of decades. But most people never notice. They are very helpful when you are driving an unfamiliar car, such as a rental car or a friend’s car.
@@jkk244 Yep, all my new cars over the years have had this feature , so it must be a good 9/10 but I do need my glasses on to see the thing these days.🤓
G'day, Ian! Bravo! You cracked me up, with the line... "World of Lubricant!!" Lol! 🤣 Thumbs up! Enjoyed the video! I too, use "Liqui Moly Oil" (Premium 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Liter) The engine idles noticeably smoother and a lot quieter in my VW TDI Turbo Diesel! By the way... (did you know) Ben Fox here on 'YT' (does wonderful Scooter Reviews, Comedy, & Tech Vlogs) at the end of his "First RU-vid Live Stream!" (plug plug) Did a fabulous 'Hubnut Outro!!' Well done! Cheers! 😊🚗✌🏻❤️
You can easily cure that handbrake sticking on by pouring 3 in 1 oil down those mini bellows at the end of the handbrake cable. It used to do this on my astra mk4. Just use a big safety pin to open out the bellow and pour down the oil. Then about 3 years ago these bellows on my car were split in half either end due to perishing and i packed some copper grease in the bottom half of the mini bellows then cleaned the surface of the split and then super glued the split bellows together and all has been perfect ever since. Also i put 3 in 1 oil on the handbrake pivoting arm mechanism for good measure.
On these...the oil drain holes in the lower piston ring groove, (so behind the oil control rings) can gunk up. Running it on some high detergent diesel engine oil may help and be more effective than a while you wait idling flush product.
Love this sort of stuff Ian. Best vids on You Tube. Always enjoy your very down to earth solutions for every automotive problem, no frills, realistic, warts 'n' all.
Though I am quite amazed that it worked at least a bit, I think it would be fantastic to see you overhaul the engine by yourself. New rings, seals etc. On a budget, of course.
I would place a bet that it is the stuff that helps the valve stem seals that has improved it. Those seals let a lot of oil in when you rev the car when they are worn. Nice teapot pose at the end.
It occurs to me that that engine and exhaust have what is called wet stacking, where the exhaust is coated with oil and it takes time and higher temperature to burn off
I've had some satisfactory results with Liqui Moly, especially injector cleaner for the Diesel 75 and it soon pepped up my SLK 230 that had been furloughed since June. Both run sweet as the proverbial.
I had an old VW Beetle once that tended to jump out of first gear on acceleration. I bought some Moly G (for gears) and added it to the gearbox. It fixed it, even after building a hotter engine for the car.
Yes, that does seem a bit better with the Charade smoke issue. I had my 2004 Fabia serviced in the Summer and the garage did a fuel system/injector flush with the fuel filter change and an oil additive along with the new oil/filter. I really noticed the difference from a normal service. A bit more pep. So maybe these 'magic potions' really do work quite well on older engines.
Like HubNut, I'm not a great believer in potions but LiquiMoly intake cleaner got rid of a heap of oil from my inlet manifold (damn PCV, since fixed). I just hope no neighbours were washing white sheets...
I believe Myrtle could do with some LiquiMoly products as well, she might feel neglected. I thought I spotted blue smoke at the end of the video, but the smokescreen had diminished somewhat already. Of course, this is early days, so time, and usage, will tell how good these products are. Glad that sticking drum was the result of a sticking handbrake. And I give you a big round of applause for getting on the ground doing all of that necessary work, I'm well past doing that at my current age! Another brilliant video!
That was a pleasant surprise as I expected the additives to have no effect. A worthwhile experiment as it turned out and it will be interesting to see if further improvement takes place.
Great that you got the box of goodies free, so well worth trying. In reality though if you paid for them you're probably not far shy of the price of a 2nd hand engine. Obviously a lot less work chucking a pile of portions in, so hopefully it'll do the trick.
Tried some magic engine potions in my Reliant Regal van many years ago. They did work but for a while it was akin to driving a WW2 destroyer 'making smoke'!
Glad it did something. I might change my thoughts on Liqui Moly if it improves the problem over time even more.😀 As I said before I've had some bad luck trying to get rid of smoke from burning oil in my Daihatsu by using miracle liquids.
I previously said that the smoke didn't look blue - so I take on board the all important smell test that you mentioned that clearly shows it is burning oil. So, if the oil treatments don't have the desired effect check out the crankcase breather hoses next
I used to have a Ford Escort that used to puff on the first start up of the day because all the oil had drained into the pan. Those other potions you added keep a film on the metal surfaces so when you first start, it's not metal to metal. It worked fine until I got rid of the car. Next time you change the oil, use 10w-40 in it. It is well within tolerances and will help with the morning start and all around. I use it in my vehicle as it has 177,000+ miles on it and it helps alot. Good Luck with it.
Did you know that the Welsh name for a jellyfish is pysgod wibli wobli which translates into English as wibbly wobbly fish!!how bloody daft that is.oh and by the way...I'm Welsh... and embarrassed by that name 😆
At around 03.50 I suddenly thought, "Wot! no Welsh?" By the way, the colour of Matiz and the Charade, is that known as HubNut Blue? I see that Matt has a new video out, driving an electric taxi of a similar colour.
You need to put about 2000 miles on that engine before you start to see the benefit of the additives, make it your daily driver for a month and i think that it will clean up about 80% of the smoke by softening the rubber seals. in the mean time price a set of piston rings and I sense a really interesting video coming up all about changing piston rings keep up the good work . from kelvin in south wales UK
I don’t know anything about that engine, but I don’t think the bulk of oil smoke is from valve stem seals. My first car had that problem, and the main characteristic is a lot of smoke when you set off, not so much at sustained higher rpm. The high manifold vacuum from the closed throttle body butterfly valve at idle pulls oil around the intake valve seals, then when you hit the throttle that oil gets burned up. The Daihatsu seems to produce most oil smoke at higher sustained rpm, almost like a two stroke engine, so I’d suspect the problem is indeed in the ringland. And I don’t think any sort of magic potion is gonna do much for that, unfortunately.
That was fun to watch, even though the smoke problem hasn’t entirely gone away. See what the oil consumption’s like in the next wee while - if the problem is seals on the valve stems it shouldn’t use much, but the smoke is usually evident at start-up or if you’re idling at a stop in the traffic for a few minutes. That was the problem I had with my Mk3 Cortina, even before I fixed the problem it would show a “grey” exhaust pipe at the end of a long trip. Compare that to my Morris 1100 which would do 100 miles on a sump of oil! Once again many thanks for sharing, entertaining as well as informative as always 😀
The piston rings are shot.Always wanted to know did those additives actually work...but I couldn’t bring myself to try them in case it destroyed my engine ..Glad you did hubnut😁👍🏻
Informed advice is that rings are gummed up rather than shot. Decent oil and solvents plus exercise may well help to free them, we will see. Does appear better though, having an old geezer pootling around with his dog for lots of short journeys will not suit a small revvy engine.
There's a spare driver's seat for sale on eBay ad says driver's seat good clean no damage £25 collection is Lancs may arrange delivery. I have a Liqui Molly cap not as good as a certain HubNut merch. Good luck to Miss HubNut, it seems a decent car if a little worn hey for the money it's fantastic and cared for is a bonus. Question Do you have Smokies Greatest Hits on the CD player? And please note Ian I kept my humour clean as its a family channel but I have to say when you said you had a parcel from World Of Lubricants I fell of my chair laughing which is even more hilarious as I wasn't sitting on one at the time!
The arrow next to the pump icon comes from the US domestic market, where is mandatory, along with central locking buttons on both driver & passenger side...I have driven the exact same make/model/year car on both sides of the Atlantic and those differences stood out, along with the lighting (federal) and driver's mirror not being aspheric, but 1:1.
I think the main issue with potions is, they are made for when your engine is burning a little oil from age and wear. However people use them as a last resort and expect a miracle to happen and it to stop burning oil straight away. Glad you went into it not expecting that, however the improvement it has shown, shows what a difference it would make to a car with high mileage burning a little bit of oil.
Keep taking the tablets little Diahatsu !!! Re the binding brake worth checking the handbrake linkage inside the drum, could be sticking and a whole lot cheaper and easier than a new cable ?
It will be interesting to see how things are after a good long run.Also you could publish a dictionary of HubNuteries .Including I should of and I was going to ect.Love your humaneness you are perfect in your imperfection!!!!!!!
Hi Ian, definitely looks better. Let’s see how it is in a couple of hundred miles. You’ve improved it, either way and that’s what counts. Good bit of tinkering there 👍 I wonder what the delivery driver thought when they saw World of Lubricant on the box! 😂
@Shane I'll wager the amount of smoke will still be visible 1000 miles later. Call me dumb all you want your the idiot who had to edit his own comment because you couldn't get it right the first time, Google the definition of snake oil you moron
@@VR6MIKE got to agree with you it's snake oil, tried all the potions over the last 30 odd years, do it properly and rebuild the engine or scrap the car, fun watching though
That's definitely oil smoke, reminds me of my old Allegro although nowhere to the degree of that old A series.......Opec loved me when I ran that car 😂
My Honda Element was sludged up after 130K miles and the engine was clattering quite badly. My mechanic suggested that I allow him to do an oil change with transmission fluid in the engine and drive it for 1000 miles. His rational was that transmission fluid is loaded with detergent and other anti sulficants. So we did the transmission fluid oil change and did a flush after 1K miles. The oil came out pitch black and was replaced with the usual oil. The engine ran super smooth with no clattering or smoking. It's now got just over 160K and it's still running perfectly. Just a thought...
One thing to check for make sure the engine breather isn’t blocked otherwise you will get pressure in the Sump which will force oil past your valvestem seals and your piston rings cheers Derek
Possibly got a gasket leak/split or leaks/splits on the inner head surface. So when it's cold, it weeps into one of the cylinders. So first thing it's full of smoke but once the engine gets really hot, said leak gets less worse. This type of gasket failure causes no misfire. One sure way to test is to look at the plugs and see how 'wet' they are. As for the additive, all it does is coat the oil filter. As for using products, best products on market are made by Forte. They really do work. Liquid Molly always found their products not up to scratch. Plenty of research and testing about LM additive and Forte products on line.
Do the EVO triangle with the Daihatsu, the engine will get warm / hot at least and the oil can burn from the engine and exhaust. That does not happen with short journeys and cold starts. Good luck with it Ian.
Little tip, most car fuel gauges have a subtle little arrow/triangle symbol that points to the side the filler is on. Yes, I was completely oblivious to this until it was pointed out to me about a year ago :)
I reckon the smoking was caused by a combination of both gummed up piston rings and worn valve seals. The engine flush and additives seem to have worked quickly on the rings judging by the marked improvement during hot running. But I think there's still oil getting past the valve stems while its parked, hence the smoky start-ups. Hopefully, that will improve with time if the Oil Saver is as effective as the other products look to be. Good result anyway!
It will be interesting to see if the problem ultimately goes away. Very intriguing. Not sure about those potions myself. On this older engine it probably doesn't matter but newer engines, especially those with variable valve timing, don't do well with heavier oils. They need to use the recommended oil.
The old solution used to be squirt RedEx in to each plug hole and leave over night. Following day put rags over plug holes to catch surplus Red Ex and spin engine over, replace plugs and drive.
Oil in the cylinders worked well in the Yugo Sana engine, so try taking the sparkplugs out of the Daihatsu and pouring some Liqui Moli into the cylinders to soak into the rings over a few days. 😎
Just had the exact problem on my old Starlet this year with the rear drums binding. The handbrake cables where seized. Same thing when you jiggled the cable it would unlock. Got the Garage to do it for the MOT last month though as i did not want to be crawling about on the floor swearing.
It's a very definite improvement, the clouds of smoke are no longer at health hazard proportions. Some more miles under the car and a few bypass decockes should make a lot of difference...
Lets hope with a few more miles the smoke clears. Maybe the cat is wet with oily residue & needs a long run to burn it off. Great video. Look forward to more on this car. 👍
I had exactly the same smoking when reved problem on my Triumph Spitfire. I tried no end of lotions and potions but nothing worked. In the end I popped out the pistons. The compression rings were fine but the oil control rings had lost their tension and were so slack you could drop them down the cylinders and they would fall into the sump. New rings were fitted and no smoke. I look forward to your engine strip down video.
Looks notably better, I remember an F reg 1.6L cavalier I had years ago it used to do150 miles to gallon of oil 😂 tried the old STP stuff and 20-50 oil it made little difference.
In my youth I had a few cars with the same illness, I found the trick was a thicker grade of oil and a tin of "No Smoke" (Halfords) and a 50 mile work out the faster the better. They all past the mot and ran for 10,000+ miles. It seemed to work and was not so distressing when I looked in the rear view mirror.
Definitely improved, Ian. Give the wee thing some time and miles, and see how it goes. Hopefully it improves. Here, visible smoke that lasts over 5 seconds can have the car declared unfit, and the plates removed at the roadside.
9:00 - re access to change the oil filter, you unbolt the number plate and the access port is behind, for putting in a filter wrench or for getting a hand in to wind off or wind on the filter. No need to take off the entire front panel!
I think you will find that all cars have a fuel flap indicator telling you what side it is on. it will be a little triangle or the petrol pump symbol will have the hose nozzle on the left or the right depending on the flap.
Looks like a slight win hubster. I remember my old dad teaching me to drive in a 1960 Albion clydesdale and the thickest smoke was from his ears and park drives haha.
Liqui Moly HighTech 5W-40 is a very good oil. Car needs some good driving time! Additives are mostly just thickening your engine oil...so 10W-40 or 15W-40 might help that engine as a better long-term solution.
