SNES Wavy Lines Capacitor Fix - Things to know before ordering 

Geter Moura what a great story, it feels good having it look good and knowing you did it yourself! Glad to hear everything worked out bud!

I wonder what that huge 1000uf one is supposed to do. They're present in Japanese SFC units, which is what I have in my 2 chip unit. I believe that one is C67. I may do a full cap replacement on mine, but all I've done is simply added a cap to my voltage regulator and added 2 to the RGB chip, for the purpose of removing the wide vertical line, which worked absolute wonders. I still have a grainy/noisy output over dark images, and I don't know which cap it is so that's why I'm just gonna replace all caps. I already have a cap kit, so I should be able to do it.

Awesome to hear, thanks for the feedback!

Wow, now that’s pretty crazy, glad it didn’t cause any damage!

@@oleschoolgamers i once had a splice job on a snes adaptor come undone while plugged in and it arced electricity. it was pretty gnarly.

@@kennethshiro9500haha, “I’m awake now!” That definitely woulda grabbed my full attention

Definitely bro, it's easy! I actually messed up one of the capacitors (can't remember which) and lost sound as well until I redid it. So the good news is your sound might get fixed when you do this! Good luck

Great to know! It’s better to replace what you need to than all of them in some cases. For me I figured if one is going out, then the rest aren’t far behind. In your case adding a new capacitor may not have been what solved it, I’m thinking it was the voltage regulator, but doesnt matter anyway except that you have a great picture, congrats! Btw was yours a 1 chip model, or which one?

@@oleschoolgamers It probably was the VR(other repair was replacing the power jack, so I bet the VR had a tough life folks trying to wiggle the power connector), but the extra filtering definitely didn't hurt. It has an excellent picture now, like good as new, I had the cap in my stash already. Working on the Snes has been fun, I usually work on classic Arcade Games(Williams/Atari). It was a GPM-02 board. Man it was doing identical lines like this video....identical.

@@youvsyou945 glad to hear it worked out, and thats really cool that the lines were the same haha. Enjoy your pure picture wavy lines free!

@@oleschoolgamers Thanks, and thank YOU for the video...I imagine this is helping a lot of folks.

Hellow, I changer all the capacitors but the lines are still there. Can I add the C67 ? the board has not this capacitor. And what is the VR?

My apologies, somehow this notification was lost in my messages and I'm just seeing it. I usually respond faster than this. Anyway, to answer your question, yes the microfarads (uf) must match exactly, while the voltage can be equal to or greater. I also prefer the leaded but I'm confused and need you to clarify. You said your board is a "non-SHVC" board. SHVC was the first iteration board that Nintendo used in 1990, and every board after that was a non-SHVC board. Mine for example is a GPM-01. My point is that I can't exactly tell ya which parts to order without knowing the exact model. TO know for sure, when you open up the SNES, (check my video at :58 where I show the pic) and look at the right hand side in the middle. The letters in white will say what type of board you have. You'll see mine says "SNS-CPU-GPM-01". So if you can tell me what board type you have by doing that, we can make sure you click on the right link and get the correct parts.

Tito Drojas wish I could that would be an interesting project. Unfortunately I don’t have any SNES consoles that need a CPU changeout. I’ll definitely do one if I have to change one out though!

See my reply above, but I didn't have an issue when I just revisited the site today. I selected "purchase as a kit - Leaded" right above my model (SNS-CPU-GPM-01) and it did take me to a Leaded cap kit to purchase: console5.com/store/snes-cap-kit-non-shvc-models.html I don't know if you have the GPM-01 model though. So let me know what model you have and let's see if we can get the right link for ya.

OleSchool Gamer I actually found and ordered the proper kit a few minutes after posting those comments the other day. My question now is, do I follow the diagram on the site as to which leaded caps go where? The SMD caps don't have any sort of Uf/voltage info on them, and so I'm assuming I would read the Uf/voltage rating on the new caps, and reference the page on the site as to where it would go. (Such as C57, X capacitor goes here)

The leaded caps can replace the SMD ones. I replaced all the caps with leaded, regardless if the original cap was leaded or SMD. The SMD ones are annoying to remove, but its not hard either. You just have to be careful. And you would be correct, I did the same thing as far as I also read the Uf/voltage rating on the new caps, and referenced the page on the site as to where it would go.

You may just need a new power supply. But to answer your question, It did come in my kit and it should in yours. As a side note that capacitor wasn’t installed on NTSC units, but you can add it to get better performance if you have worn out / 3rd party power supplies. You can call to make sure, but C67 is listed for the GPM-02 model cap kit here: console5.com/wiki/SNES#SNS-CPU-GPM-01.2C_SNS-CPU-GPM-02

@@oleschoolgamers Ok thanks I just wasnt sure if it did or not It could be the power supply idk Im currently using a 9v aftermarket supply (according to my multimeter it puts out 17v) and is the one I can wiggle and turn to get better picture I do have a 10v Nintendo supply which puts out 12v but the wavy lines are way worse and dont go away The capacitors in it seem to be original which I would like to replace anyway since its a 28 year old system now (I believe its a 1993) I will also be buying a new voltage regulator aswell

Yeah sounds like you should replace the capacitors since the wavy lines happens with both power supplies. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the power supply as well since the output is off as well.

@@oleschoolgamers I am pleased to say I received the kits and votage regulators and replaced the voltage regulator and it fixed the wavy lines (but i ordered the wrong kit i thought I needed the leaded caps but I apparently needed the smd) so I replaced the 3 leaded caps and added the 1000uf cap. No lines with either power supply now Also got a kit for a mini its problem was there was no video replaced all the caps/regulator and this solved nothing I suspect it is the AV port I was using the hyperkin cable to test these it was working on the GPM-02 but not the mini. So I took the normal AV cable to test after further cleaning of the slot and noticed it was quite loose so I moved the prongs a little so its a little tighter and now it works no idea if that was it though. Pure. F'in. Magic. probably.

Awesome update!! Yeah I love it when PFM fixes something lol. And it’s such an awesome feeling booting up the original console, with an original controller on one of the best systems of all time! I actually use my SuperGameBoy when I’m not playing Turtles in Time or other favorite SNES games.

I’ve never heard of capacitors being the cause, but I suppose it might be possible. It’s more likely dirty game or dirty SNES. If it freezes on all games, it’s more likely the SNES, if it does it only in FZERO, it’s the game. Lots of great vids on cleaning the SNES. The main part that gets dirty with SNES is the cartridge a lot connector. Lots of good vids though on how to thoroughly clean the SNES, that’s what I’d do.

@@oleschoolgamers Thanks. It was actually a dirty cartridge slot. I used a brush and isopropyl alcohol to clean what looked like 25 year old spaghetti off the cart slot. The capacitors still need replaced, but it doesn't freeze anymore.

Great to hear! Now for the capacitors to get rid of the wavy lines 😎

Sorry buddy. I can only tell ya which ones are the audio capacitors for non mini.

OleSchool Gamer Thats okay can you tell me the ones for the other model?

When I replaced mine, I had the CPU-GPM-01 board but I think the capacitors might match in purpose and location for all the non SVHC and non Mini boards. But in any case for mine I regained sound after replacing C65 and C66. I can't tell ya which exactly because I replaced them both at the same time before testing again. Hope that helps!