Man ! I was having this issue with a SFC I just bought, and couldn't find anything online related to these specifics white lines, cause yes it's hard to get it on picture and explain it without confusing it with another vertical white lines problem, so this is so cool I found your video, thanks.
Maybe already mention, but if you don't have a desoldering pump and don't care about the old voltage regulator you could just use side cutters or something to cut the legs and then remove them one at a time. It makes things much easier.
Nice video, don't be too hard on yourself for the editting. After reading the video description my expectations were not good, but the video wasn't bad at all. It was informational and made sense, and seems like a repeatable process. Other fixes I'd like to see: adjusting CRT geometry, with and without a service menu (not SNES or console fix, but as important if not more)
Good video! An alternative to replacing the cap would be to just solder the new cap in parallel to it, which is what I usually did for these. I believe I used a 220 uF electrolytic cap when I did that as well, but I just added it to the voltage regulator. More filter capacitance on the 5V rail won't hurt anyway. It's also beneficial to have caps of multiple values for power bypassing/filtering anyway. (hence why I use a 0.1uF cap in parallel with a 22uF cap for the power rail on some of my kits.) and for those that don't know: Capacitors in parallel add together. C1 + C2 +... + Cn, etc.
Hey another easy trick for removing through hole components that only have a few (2-4) leads on them, is to add a little more than necessary solder and slowly drag your iron across all the leads. If you bridged the 3 pins with solder, all the solder will wet at once and you can just slide the component out. Then you can remove the remaining solder with wick and replace the component, Not going to work for like Dip IC's or whatever, but also works wonders for pulling caps out specifically. The vacuum bulbs or pumps actually pull off pads pretty easily if youre not experienced. Great video bob keep it up!
I noticed you left the power switch attached to the mainboard while you were working on the regulator. I'm sure you already knew this, but the power switch wires can be easily unplugged from the mainboard. It uses a simple snap-together socket interface. Also links to the exact regulator you bought (and cap as well), will be really useful to post in the description. I see you have them listed in the web page you linked to, but noobs like myself might not realize they are listed there. :-) Cheers!
I tried this using only rosin flux and desolder braid (no gun) and a cheap soldering iron from Home Depot. I don't recommend it! I was sure after all the manhandling and mangling I did to get the voltage regulator out that I must have destroyed my SNES. But somehow, against all odds, it still worked and the white line was fixed! Close call, but I learned my lesson. I will not try any more of this stuff without a desoldering gun.
I have a hakko iron, I love the thing but I do struggle a bit often with that cheapo $7 hand pump I got. I just needed it for a quick fix but I think it's about time I invest in an S993A. Great advice Bob. Was fun watching Voultar coach you the other day.
I have a question, if you would please be able to answer it or help me out (since I can't send a question directly / email to the retrorgb website)... I was following your site's solutions for fixing the vertical line issue with SNES. I have two different consoles, a SNS-CPU-RGB-01 board console, which was able to follow almost everything on the retrorgb to a "t"; but, I recently acquired a SHVC-CPU-01 board console (very early board / revision), which uses a BA6592F "video encoder"? chip, versus the BA6595F chip on my RGB-01 board. I added two caps to the 5F chip, and everything works perfectly; but on the 2F chip, when I tried two, all the graphics changed to green, so I removed the second... is it possible to add a second cap to the BA6592F chip, and if so, which would be the correct pins to solder the second cap to?
Already replaced the 7805 in my mini based on your recommendation! Also Bob, might be no harm to include the specific voltage regular type/serial number and cap values at the start if the vid? Otherwise, great job!
what i have done before is put a 220uf cap on the encoder between ground and voltage (look up your encoder) and if that didnt get rid of it completely do the same between ground and voltage on the regulator
Bob, I have an SNES from 1995 that my mom found. Can't tell you what motherboard it is yet because I haven't got it on the mail. I would like to restore it but I don't have the soldering skills to do it. Would you do it for me? Please let me know
78S05, huh? I wonder how that would compare to the LM2940-5, which is the regulator I use whenever I have to replace dead or damaged 7805s. It's a low-dropout linear regulator, though the ones I have are only rated for 1A, so I'm not sure it will be as effective as just going with a regulator with a higher current rating. Personally, I would much rather add capacitors to the Super NES motherboard as it's quite evident power filtering was neglected on the 5V rail in the Super NES (not a single electrolytic capacitor anywhere for power filtering on 5V), and I've seen scope captures of the 5V rail showing voltage spikes near the chipset. In general, I prefer to add three 100uF capacitors near the chipset and a 220uF capacitor at the 7805's 5V out. I will try this at some point on a spare Super NES, though, and also poke my scope on 5V to see how clean the voltage is.
I need to try this. I noticed the line when i was testing Earthbound, and i tought there was something wrong with my console...:D I think this is better than just adding the cap, cause those 7805´s seem to get broken very often anyway if you do region mod and cap kit too. Thanks!
I think he means these parts below at Console5. Correct me if I'm wrong. 7805 L78S05CV High Output 2A +5v Voltage Regulator console5.com/store/7805-l78s05cv-high-output-2a-5v-voltage-regulator-3-pin-to-220-5v.html 22uF 10V 20% 0805 X5R Ceramic Capacitor SMD console5.com/store/22uf-10v-20-0805-x5r-ceramic-capacitor-smd-surface-mount-snes-vertical-bar-fix.html
G'day Bob. Question about the solder. What's the best sort of solder wire to use to solder components in with? Is it Low Melt one? Reason I ask this, I got a 60/40 soldering wire, but it doesn't melt properly unless i set my Rhino Soldering iron dial to max heat temperature which is 450 degree celcius which is a pain to me cause it doesn't give me chrome shiny solder results like the one I got off Tim Worthington to Mod my Nintendo 64 with his N64RGB Board as his solder wire he provided is able to melt easily at 300-350 degree celcius and got good chrome shiny solder results on the DENC-NUS Chip when I did the mod. Thanks,
I'm having an issue with my Snes, when I play Street Fighter Alpha 2. There are music but I can't or don't hear the announcer or Ryu's hadoken sound effect. How much does it cost to fix it?
Hey, awesome video! I was able to replace the voltage regulator, but don't have a multimeter to see where the 1uf surface mount capacitor is. Do you know exactly where that would be on the SNES Jr?
This might have been asked but the L78S05 has a 2Amp rating, but the SNES power box is only rated at 850mA would want replace the internals of the power supply to handle the extra amperage?
I'm sorry if you mention this in the video, and I just missed it, but is this method for both NTSC and PAL systems? I currently have the capacitor fix in my PAL Super Nintendo, but I'd like to do this instead!
Hi, do you know if the "missing top line issue" that appers in some games in SNES modded by Nintendo RGB Bypass Amp (Revision 4.1b-VGP) by borti4938 appers in the SNES modded by Voultar's THS7374 amp?
I want to use the capacitor on the power regulator fix as suggested on the website, but I have 10v 470uf capacitors instead of 16v 470uf capacitors. Would this work despite the voltage difference? Also removing the power regulator with a hand pump was a pain, lol. Thankfully didn't kill my snes' traces.
You SHOULD be fine with 10v, but I like to be cautious. It's my opinion (not fact!), that I'd rather spend a few dollars and order the higher voltage ones.
Alrighty, thank you for the reply. I think I ended up sticking with 10v because I saw that Console5 cap kits had 6.3v or something like that included for the regulator cap method. So I ordered 10vs thinking it would be a safer bet. Maybe if I end up ordering more caps I'll go with 16v instead.
Did you cycle the power of the console to discharge the stored energy in the caps before you removed the power regulator? It's a good way to blow a fuse if you don't power cycle the unplugged console to discharge that energy.
truth is every power supply that has a voltage regulators has filter capacitor present on its output voltage... where in the case of every snes and super famicom its 5v voltage regulator output has no filter capacitor to be found... adding 470uf/16v can surely fix the vertical line on the display or atlease minimize the line.... putting some capacitor on the video encoder chip was not necessary, because the chip pin part where a capacitor to be mounted was it's 5v supply,, connected from the output of the 5v regulator.. adding some capacitor in the video encoder is necessary if the present of the vertical line has been slightly visible... just add 100uf/16v if necessary,,especially no space for two capacitor in one place😁😁....sometimes voltage analysis can prove if the regulator function properly or not also if some voltage drop happens even 1v can do a difference sometimes...
