QUESTION OF THE DAY: How do you store your snow blower after the winter season? Do you drain the fuel or add stabilizer? Do you run ethanol free fuel? Do you have any other maintenance tips to add to this video?
As a small equipment mechanic i found this a good video, you covered all that the normal homeowner would have to know to help keep their unit running. good work.
This was incredible helpful because I really got no material how how to prep for with a new snowblower when I purchased this item. I am new to snowblowing so this was extremely helpful. Thank you!!!
I use fully synthetic 5W30 oil, always use StarTron enzyme fuel treatment in my OPE fuel. I usually leave fuel in the tank (it's a metal tank I rather keep it full to prevent possible rusting). I run my engine after each use whether blowing snow or off season storage, while it's running I close the fuel on/off switch (not all engines have one) and I let it run until the carb runs out of fuel. Well done vid with a lot of good info 👍
After the five-hour break in time on the engine, I plan on using Toro 0w30 full synthetic in my Toro HD 1232. One thing nice about EFI, you don't have to be concerned about ethanol causing corrosion or gumming up issues in the carburetor. Starting last year, I started using ethanol free fuel in all my outdoor power equipment along with Sea Foam. Been using Sea Foam for years with good results. EFI would be nice as long as it is working properly. Much more efficient, I'm sure. Enjoyed the informative video.
I've used Sea Foam before and feel like it helped my old mower run better. I'm using full synthetic oil as well. A dealer friend of mine said to try Amsoil Full Synthetic Small Engine Oil. It contains zinc, which small engines love apparently.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Amsoil full synthetic small engine oil is the best oil you can buy for your small 4 cycle engine. Great choice if you choose to use it. I change all my outdoor power equipment engine oil every season if it needs it or not. From the reviews I have read and videos I have watched, a HD two stage snow blower is still the best choice for all snow conditions. The Cub Cadet 2X30 EFI machines get very good reviews. So far here in southeastern MI we haven't had much snow. Just about four inches back when that blizzard passed through. After that it has been quite mild. Not complaining, but I would like to try out my new snow blower. Wish you all the best and have a safe and blessed winter.
very nice video..I been thinking about buying a new snow blower. I normally store all my small equipment with no gas and its been working for me for the past 10 years with no issues.5W-30 and it is always good to take out the spark plug and drop 1 or two drop of engine oil in there ..
Thanks! Sounds like a safe way to store a snow blower. This one has an EFI engine and Cub Cadet recommends leaving the fuel topped off during storage with stabilizer added to it. I also recommend getting non-ethanol 89 octane gas if available.
Awesome! I'm liking this snow blower and glad to have it for the heavy Michigan snow. If you're looking for a snow cab accessory, I made a video about that too.
Wow Mark, you bought the Cadillac of snow blowers! Love the heated grips and all the LED lights. What is the battery for, fuel pump only? I use low octane fuel and always use stabil all winter and store it with full tank of fuel and stabil. I read a long time ago that when storing to make sure the valves are closed, you can do this by slowly pulling the cord until you feel the most resistance, then stop and your valves are closed. I use 10W30 oil and change it once a year. Most of the other maintainance you mentioned I don't do. Thanks for the video!
good video Mark! two things 1-just put stabilizer in empty gas can and add gas. none in gas tank of machine.That way your gas is always safe and good for lawnmower or other machines.2-always use high octane gas.Your manual probably mentions it somewhere.Anyway good video, take care and be good!
Drain your gas and drain the carb bowl as well. Use ethanol free gas with one ounce of sea foam per gallon to keep the carb clean and take you wheels off and anti-seize on your axles incase you have to put do maintenance where you need to remove the axle or you will have to cut it off and spend lots of money. I always add CRC heavy duty marine rust inhibitor to all the exterior metal and WD-40 all around the augers and housing to keep snow from sticking. If yo first gear is to fast remove the drive shaft by removing the cotter pin and turn the metal piece it’s attached to and turn it to the right one or two turn to Shorty the shaft if you go to far turbot back slightly as it will go in reverse. If yo ha a cable attachment follow it down the the rectangular piece with three holes it should be in the center. Loosen the nut holding the back nut the loosen the front slide the nut up by move the metal attachment down very slightly not too far tighten and test to make sure it’s in the correct position. It moves the friction disc on the friction plate closer the the center the higher the gear the father out the disc goes on the plate but don’t go past the center this wo put it on reverse. Test it to make sure you adjustment is correct, put it in 6 th gear first as this will give you slack in the cable.
I run into edges from time to time and it is annoying. I adjusted the height of the shoes but still does. Does the scraper bar need replaced? How do I know?
FVP synthetic 5w20 every season, drain the gas and run carb dry at the end of every season. Hey don't forget to adjust the skid side plates so those augers don't touch the pavement.
I was at a dealer selling used Hondas WAY over priced, the track type had the augers tips almost worn off! I asked if he'd replace them for that price and he told me nothing was wrong 'as is' (like a smart ass), I said bullshit and walked out the door, never been back.
@@MarkThomasBuilder That's good to know, since I'm going to upgrade next winter. Need something to deal with the heavy, lake effect snows here in Chicago, but I don't want a 3 stage; it seems like a gimmick to me.
My question where do you find the fuses for the heated grips and the headlight the wire goes into the motor but I don’t see how you get any fuses or where they are. I don’t have the electric hand grips but I’m getting no Voltageto my 12v headlamp
Hey Mark! Loved the video. Question does this snow blower have a adjustment for the auger to shut it off? Mine will keep running when I disengage the auger lever. Only used it 3 times since December when I got it.....Thanks
Hey David, if I understand your question correctly, the answer is yes that the auger control that you squeeze with your left hand will stay down if you're moving forward (with the right hand lever pushed down too) and take your hand off of the auger control. It's like a cruise control setting so you can snow-blow 1 handed.
@@daviddance9527 I would think it's an adjustment in the cable that engages it. I haven't had that problem. I'm actually needing to adjust my transmission gear shift linkage. It only goes in reverse speed 1 and not 2. I looked at that and noticed the adjustment can be made at the nut on the threaded end section of the rod.
My dad has a Cub Cadet 3. He is having problems with starting in the cold weather. It starts fine when it is warm but when it's cold it won't start using manufacturers instructions. It will start in the cold if you hit the primer bulb 10x but then he says it runs rough the whole time he's using it. Any thoughts on what might be wrong?
I'm not sure why that is. I used to have a mower with a Kohler engine that wouldn't start in 32 degree weather either. If I needed to start it, I'd cover it with a tarp and add some heat for awhile. The EFI snow blower in this video starts just fine in the cold, even overnight outdoor storage.
My blowers battery seems to be dead or something else might be wrong I plugged the small cord into the blower and the green light still won’t turn on after I just bought it brand new as well is there anything else I should try?
I normally charge my battery overnight with that small cord and it's always started first pull. I'm not sure what it could be. I guess I'd check to see if there's any loose wire connections around the battery.
It's and EFI engine, fuel injected. The spark plugs should be looked at each season, but I'm probably not going to change them until a couple years of use.
What about if the lights down come on when you start the machine does anybody have a quick fix for that I would really appreciate it thank you very much God bless stay safe!!🤙🏽
You have to remove the shroud that's covering the carburetor, clamp the fuel line that's coming from the gas tank, remove the fuel line from the carb then unclamp the line and drain the gas into a pan. You can also remove the whole gas tank and drain but that will take longer. Not a professional but just figured this out yesterday.
@@cblackweiu03 I've got a older 28 inch cub cadet I just take two bolts out and drain the tank, I also cut the fuel line and installed a valve that way I can run it out of gas.
You could potentially buy a $10 hand pump rated for fuel and get near 95% of the fuel out that way and add a full tank of fresh fuel. Otherwise, see another answer below to the same question. In the future, I recommend 89 octane ethanol-free and add Sta-Bil. It's best to keep the tank topped off, so there's no air gap to allow condensation that turns to water.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Yes. I would love to. Your explanations are clear and to the point, but I want to see how you started it. Ours is new and it won’t start.
Did you charge the battery first? The battery is an important part to prepare the EFI module for starting. When you turn the key on, you should hear a sound for the next 5 seconds or so. Then it's ready to pull start about 10 seconds after turning the key on.
