Every time I hear someone mention the carbide insert you used it sounds like a radio station. "WNMG all machining all the time". "Next up it's the Monarchs with their number one hit 'Taper Bore'".
Hi Adam , At work I have to do the same hubs. it’s weird to see someone else do them at the other site of the world. Love the vids thanks! Greets from Belgium !
Came across your channel, a month or so ago, and im really liking everything you do! I find something new in each video i am able to take to work and help me solve problems (i am an apprentice/student - mechanical fitter/engineer). I find everything in your videos interesting, and try to apply any knowledge learnt to my workplace to help me get a better understanding and practical skill set. Videos are well constructed and its easy to follow along and learn, thanks for everything and keep up the hard work!
We use to use those couplings in the oilfield. Always set mine up with a dial indicator.They last forever if you keep them greased and in alignment . Excellent Video as always .
Jennifer WhiteWolf You again. You are almost certainly a really interesting person. Wish I was able to get to know you. Perhaps in our next life. All the best. Cheers.
The great bulk of your machine work is beyond my normal scope of activities, but amazingly things I pick up from your presentations often come to mind and provide a basic concept for me to work from. Your efforts are extremely helpful to farmers like me that have limited machining skills. Thanks so much for your content! Nick, North West Farmer
Do the employees you work with care that you may lose a little money b'cuz of the training you provide?and if so, do they mind, at all it may take more time to machine something than it may take them...camera set-up explainations take time. Really, I was just curious!!!!
Ha, bought some tools off of a retiring Machinist over 20 years ago and they came with a planer gauge, never could figure out a use for it! I’ve broached and drilled hundreds of keyways and had the planer gauge collecting dust in my tool box. Awesome tip Adam, will definitely use the planer gauge next time. Cheers from 🇨🇦
Hey Adam Was so glad to meet you at the Louisville meet and greet. I was the guy 40 miles north of Chicago. Due to prior commitments I had to be home that night, Was sipping a cocktail at 10:30 Chicago time.
Hey guys, i just upgraded my craftsmanship by going back from cnc to old school conventional turning and milling. That is where the hearth of machining is, and i work for a superyacht builder so great to be back at the handles again and enjoying the culture.
Great video as always Adam, always learning stuff from your channel. Long time watcher but not a long time commenter - last time I used a lathe was in shop class twenty years ago. One day it'll happen and I'll be 4-jawing like a boss. Nice with the 2 dial indicators by the way!
Label to the top - that's a great tip. I usually slacken two jaws and turn the chuck without noting the jaw numbers - losing the advantage of an easier reset for similar parts. Thanks for a great tip. Regards from Canada.
Ive removed ,installed and aligned dozens of those hubs over the years. Ours are used on 200 to 500 hp electric motors driving plastic extrusion machinery. They run 24/7 365. Most will last a couple of years. We align to within .004".
We use the same brand at work up to 2,000 HP, if the gasket, o-rings, and grease are maintained. Seen 10 yrs on use on them the main reason have to them is to replace the seals in the gearbox behind them. Yes they do see 24/7 work on a drilling rig.
Hi Adam good SNS. last year we replaced six cupplings of that type due to poor maintenance. two of them we had to use cutting torch to get rid of, this year only one, so far Hans
Hi Adam, nice work, it's nice when you can make a deal deal with your employer to do work at home. I do the same! It works out well! It looks like you are knocking on the 200k subs door, I bet it won't be too long till you hit it! Nice!!
Well Adam I had a good time here in Flordia. We stayed at a condo on Navarre beach. The Blue Angel's was something to see. We head out tomorrow and are going to stop by McGuires. Nice state you have here man. Thanks.
Mark Abston awesome! I love the Blues show was today. Mom and Fernando was out on little lagoon in the bay to watch the show. Hope y’all enjoyed your visit to the Florida gulf coast!
Another Abom79 machining classic. Noticed you'd rather be sure of the alignment of the work in the chuck than assuming since you've done others before this that it's all the same. Measure twice cut once always works well. Great video technique as well
Abom we use the same ones a work on the equipment we build. We have to get them with .010 T.I.R on angular and parallelism. Seen one stripped out like that before because the customer wasn’t greasing them monthly. The flange sleeve should have o-rings in the back with a thin plate and hand full of Allen screws to hold the thin on the back of the flange hub that keeps the o-ring in the sleeve, and a gasket goes between the flange face.. Like mentioned before them should be greased monthly, but you can’t leave the grease fittings installed in the flange. It sling all the grease out past the ball in the grease fitting. The way our manuals wrote up is per the manufacture manual, put the plugs on the outside face of the flange at 3 & 9 positions, remove one on both sides install a grease fitting, and grease it until fresh grease comes out the open hole on the other side then reinstall the plugs.
As I look inward, I wonder what it is to be a flex shaft taper bored; what with a keyway broached on a drake press. This is the most enlightening content towards such pondering.
I love the monarch and aspire to get one some day. Of course in my area buying machine tools is difficult, rare and expensive. I'm thinking of trying to find a good deal somewhere and maybe even flying out for inspection then u-haul it back to Phoenix. It's only a dream right now anyway as it's just not in the funds for at least a couple of years.
I like using WD for cleaning as well. A common green Scotch-brite helps to knock loose anything heavy. I run the carriage to one end, spray and wipe clean, spray it again and move the carriage to the opposite end ... repeat until grunge no longer appears from under the carriage. Out here, on gravel roads and with fields under cultivation, keeping dirt out of things is half of your work, even if the building is considered "tight." You are actually better off to do your cleaning at the start of the day. End the day by brushing off chips, leave the oil spread out and throw a tarp over it. The tarp won't keep the dust out entirely, but it helps, and it will keep invading birds from leaving little messages all over your ways.
A Monarch........ *drools* you lucky devil, hee I'm still torn between so many little lathes, not those chinesium rubbish but some old iron, Myford or Harrison maybe...... so many to choose from..... Great video as always Adam
I'm not much a machinist, but I see some work getting done usually, get a nice old 10 D 4 Jones and Lamison TURRET lathe. they are bad ass and most have taper attachments, for like, pipe threads, but you can install anything you want.
We use WD40 for everything but sex. Peanut butter is our favorite sex aid. We put the PB on the door handle to discourage the kids from sneaking in on us. LOL
Thnx Adam hope you and Abbie are doin well and looking forward to some downtime, if your not already on the loose . Its confusing with these pre-recorded vids. Regards from across the pond, Stuart
A good taper attachment is a real blessing. Great that you have the opportunity to do it this way.A clean lathe is a happy machine eh. So much nicer to work on too. I took on a lathe once that took me a week to clean and service. Too many weekend warriors had been there. Things like this really make me miss working for sure. Great job bud. Are these dry or wet couplers ? Certainly looked like a poor alignment to me.
you can adapt a power feed to a compound,,,using a small variable speed gear box,,,,or I have also used a 3/8 air rachet ,,just fab a hex nut on the compound handle
On the broaching part of the operation, how do you know how far to shove the broach through the part? In other words, how do you know how deep the notch is to be cut? Is the standard to pull (or push) the broach through until it falls through; which would mean the last & highest tooth of the broach automatically incorporates the correct depth of cut, as long as the broach is fully pulled or pushed through the part? Super nice work, Adam!
pneumatic00 Yes, you always push the broach entirely through the cut. The depth is controlled by the last tooth and by any shims that are placed between the broach plug and the broach itself.
Last tooth dictates the depth. Broaching usually takes multiple passes to get the key slot deep enough. You add a shim behind the broach after each pass to make it cut deeper. You can see his extra shims on the left where he sets the oil can. You can also see a shim already in place (hanging in the slot of the broach plug) when this broach drops through. Change the thickness of the shims to achieve the desired depth.
WD-40, so great for old and industrial equipment... Not so much for modern DiY equipment, since it'll melt the really cheap plastic that has found its way into everything. Well, it's actually fine on most plastics (exceptions are polycarbonate and styrene, etc.) but to save even more money, they have been adding more and more fillers to bulk out their plastics, and those not only drastically weaken the plastics, they'll also turn to goo from the WD-40.
Often the fillers actually allow substantial improvements to the properties of the plastic for a specific application. Examples are glass fiber (improved tensile strength, massive improvement in Young's modulus, increased density) microspheres (reduced density, reduced strength) and talc (improved impact resistance and dimensional stability, slight increase in density) Most fillers are insoluble in mineral oils and shouldn't be troubled by WD-40. Cheap plastic (especially recycled plastics) may be less chemical resistant though- every time you re-melt a thermoplastic the polymer chains break down a bit, reducing its properties and making it more soluble.
That should be; "Previously, fillers were only ever used to allow substantial improvements...". Plus, I did mention that those types of fillers existed. Do Not assume those days exist anymore, they do not. WD-40 will melt most modern plastics because Rubbermaid exists in name only, and fillers in many modern plastics are there to bulk out the amount of end product without care for the final products characteristics. Have a 5 gallon bucket from a couple decades ago, don't cry when a new 5 gallon bucket deteriorates before that old on does; some corporation saved 5 cents per thousand buckets by using bulking fillers.
I am curious about the drilling for the setscrew. Is the bore perpendicular to the outside of the coupling or the taper of the keyway? I can see that the planer gauge would make the bore perpendicular to the keyway but clamping the vice would make it perpendicular to the outside diameter. Is this one of those items that is not important in this case?
It would be interesting to see which is the better process for keyways in the flex hub... Broach or Shaper? I know that in the shaper you can also make dovetail lock keyways.
"Knowing your own work." I got that too. Years ago a boss called me out to the shop to bitch about a part he *thought* I made. I said:" I didn't make that." "How do you know?""That isn't MY work. I did better than that in High School shop! Plus I don't do Machine work here because you don't pay me enough to do it."Turns out some newb told the boss *I* made that part. Newb was gone the next day and the boss never said another word about it...Didn't get a raise either and I never turned a chip there until I quit.
Phil Grindle It’s funny How we can recognize our own work. I can tell when welded cylinders were made by me. I think everyone I work with knows my work too. 👍🏻
Hey Adam thanks for the video great work, we can all learn from your excellent teaching skills. If you take 5 on the dial how much would actually be turned of the job. Sorry but I am struggling to get my head around this fact, and I don't mind if everyone has a chuckle at my question. Michael
Michael Topping. HeyBro! Questions are Questions !!!, I don't think any question is a dumb one, except the one, "NOT ASKED" to lead to a mistake...I'll ask til the day I die so, Ask 'Em!...That's how we all learn.
Thanks, that explains things. As I have never worked a lathe, as much as I would have loved to. I find the machining great very interesting better than the rubbish on TV these days
Great work. Nothing like using a machine tool you trust, to do technical machining. Very entertaining video. I noticed a hand engraved number on one of the parts. Is that just a part #, or does it also indicate who the did the machining, and when.
Could you show a video on using a lathe indexing plate? I want to try to use one at the shop in school but I am very woried about sending a t-nut into my forehead or something
Hum, not sure I am buying into that! If you broach the gear parallel to the shaft and mill the key into the shaft parallel with the shaft, then you end up with a key way that is parallel and dimensional throughout, just passing through a tampered opening. Not sure it would skid out, as the forces acting on the key would be parallel on the key and on the key way's tops and bottoms. But who am I to say, there are probably a lot smarter people out there or people that have had issues that this way overcomes.
Usually the keyway is broached parallel to the taper, same is on the shaft too. I shimmed the hub so that your not pressing the cutter at an angle forward.
A very wide range. Most popular manufacturer in my industry is Kop-Flex. We typically use them on drive motors for everything from main mill drives (8,000-10,000 horsepower) down to crane bridge(75HP), hoist(200HP) and trolley(15HP) motors. Those look like about size 4 or 4 1/2, so they'll be somewhere in the 5000RPM max range, rated for at least 26,000 ft/lbs of torque. The main drives at the mill i work at run size 36 straight bore couplings of a similar design - they're rated for about 5,900,000 ft/lbs. I've extensive experience in rotating apparatus repair, IE: Gearboxes and electric motors. These are commonly bored in the motor industry, in the repair shop. Most are stocked on site(at the repair shop), with a virgin bore, so that it may be bored and broached to a certain application.
