Stumpy, you guys have really stepped up the quality of your videos over the past year or so...I am very impressed and glad to be a subscriber. Your work is noticed and appreciated! The info in this particular vid is so valuable and important!
Pure Gold Stumpy! That is brilliant! My Jet AFS has washable second stage filters but I'm sure the washing doesn't leave them "clean". The canister filter is SO much better!! Thanks a bunch man, All the best, Charlie
I put a Wynns filter on my dust collector. What a difference it made. Soon I think I will do this to my Jet brand filter. I have never had to change my post filter, but I change the pre filter often....
I have evolved in my shop I now have a Cyclone dust collector from Oneida and I have preinstalled two electrical receptacles on 20 amp circuits on 20 amp switch into my finished ceiling for air filtration units when I can afford them.
If I currently have a 3 hp cyclone with a HEPA filter, could I just let it run with an open pipe to clean the air? it handles about the same CFM as one of the air filtration units hanging from the ceiling.
Thank-you for this great idea, and for all your informative videos. A dust collector normally has a dust separator on the input side - that is, it pulls air through the dust separator - and a bag filter or canister filter on the output side - that is, it pushes through the core of the filter and out through the filter material. An air cleaner usually has coarse and fine filters on the input side, and pulls air in through both filters. In this video, you replaced the air cleaner’s stock fine filter on the input side with a canister filter on the output side. Question 1: Would that work with a furnace blower? Somewhere, at some point, I seem to recall hearing that dust should not be allowed to go through the squirrel cage blower, that the blower performance might be degraded. Not sure about that, which is the reason for the question. I also just saw an article about a shop built air cleaner using an in-line blower and a “dust collector” canister filter. In this configuration, air is pulled in through the “dust collector” canister filter and out through the blower. Question 2: Does a canister filter handle air flow in either direction - ie, inside to out or outside to in? Or is each canister filter designed for a specific direction of air flow - inside to outside, or outside to inside?
@@karpuzsever For Question 1: No further information. I think the consensus stands. Wood dust sticks to everything, and could be expected to degrade the performance of a squirrel cage type blower. Which brings up another question : what if a real efficient dust separator was employed ahead of the blower? Would it tip the scale? It would be interesting to know. So far, we’ve been talking about the possibility of using a combination of furnace blower and canister filter as an air cleaner. What about using a furnace blower and canister filter for dust collection? The consensus seems to be that a dust collector should move 3000-4000 CFM, while a furnace blower, in general, might move 1000 CFM. Big gap, right? But it’s still a lot more than a shop vac or many of the less expensive commercial dust collectors. For Question 2: Home air filters, both the main furnace filter and the smaller return filters, have the direction of air flow marked, and must be installed in the correct orientation. They also usually have some kind of backer - wire mesh, plastic or cardboard - where the air comes out, to keep the filter material from collapsing as the air pushes against it. Canister filters - at least the ones used for dust collection - usually have a wire mesh on the back side of the pleats; ie, the wire mesh supports the pleated filter material against the pressure of the air flowing through. So the answer to to the question was that canister filters are designed for air flow in one direction. Central dust collectors always blow air from inside to out, so the dust is on the inside, and the mesh backing is on the outside. Shop vacs pull air in through the filter; shop vac filters may not have a mesh backing, probably because they are much smaller, and handle a much smaller amount of air flow, but the principle holds - they are designed for one direction air flow. Wish I had better answers. Hope this helps.
I'm curious why I rarely see anyone skip the filters and just have the system vent to the outdoors. I realize this isn't always feasible but that's what I did. I bought a used Jet dust collector that I could have put a big filter on (or used the bag that came with it) the top side but instead I made a plywood lid with a fitting to a clothes dryer vent so the fine dust goes outside my shed. I'm thinking I could do the same with one of the units you're showing here. No filters, seemingly excellent CFM performance and no cleaning filters. Any thoughts?
It’s an absolute no-go if you have any sort of hvac in your shop. It will suck the warm/cold/dehumidified air out of your shop and replace it with whatever air is outside in about 2 mins. That’s mainly why. The other reason would be if you live in a densely populated area. Clouds of wood dust being blown through a 6” pipe out of my garage would be generally frowned upon where I live.
Do you have any concerns about the dust getting onto the blower fan motor and electrical parts that are exposed in this unit? Concerns like the components having a short lifespan and possibly a fire hazard? These units were designed to keep out the dust before and got into the unit but the way you have it set up the dust will go right through unit and into these components. Just so you know I've been watching your videos for years and appreciate all your hard work and the information that you put out there for free so I'm not complaining just want to get your thoughts.
I haven't noticed any significant dust buildup in the motor, but it wouldn't hurt to blow it out with a compressor every once in a while. Remember, this is only collecting very fine, airborne dust. It's not like a chip collector that sucks loads of dust through itself. And of the airborn dust that gets sucked into the system, all but the nearly invisible stuff is caught in the pre-filter. So the size, and actual amount of dust that goes through that motor and into the post filter is very, very minimal. However, use your own judgement. Your equipment, your warranty, you shop, your responsibility :)
@@audiobrad99 And yet here I am, six years later, with a motor that works just fine. If it's too small to see, it's too small to kill a motor. If you think about it, there are lots of motors in woodworking shops that get way more dust on and in them. Consider a router mounted in a router table. The dust literally drops right into the airflow openings in the top of the motor. Cabinet saws have motors enclosed in a cabinet that fills with dust.
@@audiobrad99 You can tell me what you believe will happen all day long and I will still point to my six year old setup that is working just fine. Woodworking is full of such arguments over theory and what "the experts" say vs. actual, real world experience that proves something else. Have a nice day :)
Love your videos -- thanks for helping me build my skills as a new woodworker!!! Found this video on recommendation from Wynn after contacting them to discuss filter options for connection to the Jet AFS-1000B. (Had found their website from a search.) Went from here to your website, since you say the plans for this setup are there. As with others who have looked for the plans, I did not find them at your website. Sent a message a month ago through your website asking about the plans, but have not received a response. Please let me know if I'm looking for the plans in the wrong place, and if not please follow through on posting the plans and let us know when you do. Thanks!!!
Great video. I noticed that the Wynn 9L300NANO in this video has an inner cage. Wouldn't this hold dust and retard the cleaning process? I noticed the filters for woodworking on Wynn's website do not have the inner cage.
A big thank you to Stumpy and the gang! Great tips and tutorial, the ambient particles in the WigWag Workshop are a big issue, has my shop is in the basement. Wishing the gang a Happy and Safe 4th of July! -Steven
Hey Stumpy. this is excellent but I went to the wynn website to order a filter and the offer 2, one that "collects on the outside" which one should I buy ?
Wonder how this set up would work for small model airbrushing using multiple filters as well. Leave the same set up you show to circulate the air. In winter time I dont want to release the heat of the basement. Its water-based paint createx. I dont use flammables or urethane for the small stuff I use. At times I think using 4-5 filters to catch the paint and the front to filter the air. I would have a separate air filtration unit
So much information you went out of focus! Thanks for making this series. I was just about to start making mistakes and installing a DC system in my shop. I´ll keep checking the infos. Again, thanks!
Stumpy Nubs since you're standing in the same place, do not use autofocus. Focusing manually with ( if the camera allows it ) a higher number aperture will produce the desired result.
Stumpy Nubs You should have just got a gopro sports camera lol. Much cheaper and has the ability to be mounted just about anywhere with the accessories.
Anthony Eaglebarger - I did! I tried out the GoPro and the Sony versions. They're fine for really wide shots in bright light, but not suited to what I do. I even tried the head and chest mounts for filming while working. It just wasn't practical.
Everything that I have read about installation indicates that you should mount your air filtration system so that the exhaust air stimulates air circulation in the shop. Without that air circulation, you won't be drawing in much contaminated air into the filtration unit. If you cover the exhaust with that filter, you are not getting the air in the shop moving around and defeating the purpose of the whole exercise. I hate to throw cold water on your idea because I think it was otherwise really well thought out. Perhaps another external fan to promote air movement ?
Yeah, okay, a Jet Air Filtration unit upgraded to use a Wynn nano filter is a fantastic idea but doesn't that reduce it to a VERY big, heavy and expensive remote control blower? Have you considered just bolting an axial blower for drying carpets to a Wynn filter and a mechanical timer switch?
Either the Jet unit is useful or it isn't. Putting a bigger filter on it doesn't "reduce" it at all. If anything it improves it. If you want to make your ow blower, that's a separate issue. But there's a reason Jet and others sell lots of these units when furnace blowers are available widely.
@@StumpyNubs I understand. They are useful as a packaged solution with their intake filters. But when modified to remove the intake filters and enhanced to use a Wynn filter on the outflow, it's not obvious what else the unit is other than a furnace blower, control circuitry and remote controlled speed and timer. Hence the leap to skip the packaging and go directly to Blower plus Wynn filter.
Just following up. Emailed Dick Wynn and he said they had looked at the fractional motor duct fans but they lacked the oompf (my word) to provide adequate Static Pressure (his word). Basically they don't suck (in a bad way). He encouraged experimentation with fans that had more "Oompf" which was my thesis (there are now 1/4HP 13" axial fans available that would be very efficient airflow-wise because they don't have the 90 degree turn that centrifugal fans have. The shape of the airstream also matches the Wynn filters. Article linked below explains differences between Axial and Centrifugal (furnace blower) fans. I just don't have the bank account for the gear needed to experiment. Hence my query. Thanks for all the great videos. FWIW. www.pelonistechnologies.com/blog/axial-vs.-centrifugal-fans
So is there any reason you could not use a cheap dust collector for this? Basically mount the motor/impeller piece on wall or ceiling and tie the output to a similar filter. You can pick these up cheap at harbor freight and the cfm is decent.
I am bit confused , air should be going in the opposite direction in the tubular filter as you have a massive surface area on the outside . A far better would be to suck air through the tubular filter , the air going for the outside to inside of the cylinder. those filter tubes are perfect for wrapping in inexpensive prefilter which is crucial to preserving the life of your filter and its effectiveness. you can actually build an enclosure round the long filter , turn it upside down and have the air going outside to the inside of the tube , the air output becomes the top of the long filter. This would be vastly more efficient.
Stumpy, Just out of curiosity does putting the micro filter after the fan decrease the life of the motor? I know there is a wedge shaped pre-filter, but the other particles that were being collected by the secondary micro filter are now being allowed to pass thru the blower to go to a "post filtering system"? I am thinking of it sorta like the home furnace, you can put grates by the motor, and the filters in the floor ducts. The grate keeps big debris out while the floor filters make it seem like nothing has changed until you open the furnace and see the dust piled on the motor and blades. Currently I am making one for my shop from an old 4 stage120,000 BTU Furnace motor. Thought about mounting the large round filters on the side opening and building a short duct to keep the air cyclonic. Just throwing the idea out there.. Great videos. Thanks
What modifications to this system would you recommend while using an HVLP system to apply finishes? I use Fastcap 3rd hands to create a temporary plastic-walled booth and have been considering the repurposing of my ceiling-mounted Jet air cleaner.
shane chambers - I would not use a filter like this for any paint of finishes. You can't clean that off so it would plug up the filter. I would also hesitate to use the JET system for it without contacting JET to be sure it is an entirely closed motor. You could end up destroying it, or worse yet, starting a fire.
I think it would be about a push restriction-wise. He is vastly reducing restriction with that filter setup. Those stock 3-bag second stage filters have about 9.6 sq feet of filter media. That Wynn filter has 300 sq feet. He also went from about 3 sq feet to about 6 sq feet on the intake. Balancing that out, he is inducing some restriction reducing the blower output down to a curved, corrugated 6” drier pipe. I think the limit of that pipe is about 800cfm? Either way, the more restricted the system is, the less amperage the motor will pull. The more air it moves, the more amps it pulls. It sounds backwards, but try it. Hook an amp meter up to your dust collector and start opening blast gates. The more gates you open, the slower the blower will spin (due to the increased air load), the more amps the motor will draw. Personally, I beat my electric motors like rented donkeys. I have a 1981 Century 15-amp rated motor on an air compressor that has been pulling 21+ amps for years, so I wouldn’t worry about it running a little bit harder.
Hey I'm new to wood working. I have a small collection of festool stuff with a dust extractor. Is this a required item in a small (garage) woodshop as well?
I think that idea is overkill the Jet filters do very well providing you set them up in your shop correctly. All woodshops should have a quality air monitor like Dylos or equivalent otherwise you are just guessing at what you are breathing.
Hey Stumpy, great video, really like the idea. Had a question, this is a pretty old thread, but I'm a new subscriber and catching up on your videos. Isn't one reason to mount an AFS on a wall, to use the exhaust vent of the unit to circulate air along the walls around the shop in a continuous loop? I would think using that hose and filter setup would essentially cut off your air circulation? How are you moving the shop air into the intake pre-filter of the AFS? Sorry, if this is a dumb question.
+scbleecker I have it positioned this way because I also use it to circulate heat in the winter. The hot air hangs out at the ceiling and this pulls it down. I have had no problems at all with circulation throughout the room.
@StumpyNubs perfect. I wasn't to sure how often it might need a cleaning. Thank you so much for the quick response. I love this idea and the work that you put into it with Wynn.
Wonderful site and videos! Thank you! Question about increasing efficiency and upgrading an AFS. If you are going to put the filter at the end of the AFS unit to capture the fine stuff why not just run the duct (WITHOUT secondary filter) back to the dust collector? I have a Jet DC-1100 and would require a Y-connector to receive the duct from the DC-1100 (w/ 2 micron canister filter)'s impeller as well as the duct from the modified AFS (sans secondary filter) as you are recommending. Would that not work? No need to buy a separate expensive filter and would only require 1 waste reception point to clean out (bottom of DC-1100) and my 2 micron canister filter would handle the fine stuff . Just an idea that came to me. I was looking to make my own AFS from some of the ideas on RU-vid. Using a Harbor Freight $79 8" ventilator 2 speed blower pushing 1590/1380 CFM. Should be enough power to force the air into the DC-1100 with a Y-connector to receive duct from AFS modified and from DC-1100 impeller to even with the DC-1100 not running. Perhaps others have suggested it or you have thought of it before and it has been reasoned as not viable. I'm just starting to put together my shop (in my garage) as a newbie woodworker and appreciate the site and videos you are providing to others to cut down on our trial and errors! I will try it out in my shop! I'm so new as I haven't done anything with my tools yet.. just gathering the tools and wanted a good dust collection system to protect myself before I start on any projects (bunk bed for daughters first).
Why add any sort of filter to the exhaust of the Jet AFS? It already filters down to 1 micron. The premise for this video was to address the cost and constant changing of the pre filters.
It's not about FINER filtration, it's about getting a significantly larger filter surface area to boost the system's efficiency. It's all explained in the video.
@@StumpyNubs How does adding resistance to the end of the system "boost the system's efficiency?" Does the cylindrical filter you added, collect up to or below 1 micron?
Okay, I believe I misunderstood and didn't realize that you used this as a REPLACEMENT for the secondary filter that came with the unit. I had thought you added the cylinder IN ADDITION TO the filter that came with the unit. I apologize for the misunderstanding.
You are not adding resistance you are reducing resistance by replacing the stock filter with a much larger one. More surface area = less resistance. Again, it's all in the video.
Good question! I guess however, you'd obviously then have to leave the 1 micron inner filter in place, instead of removing it like Stumpy did. In that case, however, why would you need any filters at all??? Just a big exhaust fan! I guess the only reason against that would be to conserve heat or cooling temps maintained in the workshop? But my workshop in in my basement with neither heat nor cooling! So why do I need more than a big old fan vented outside?? I'm LOST!!!!!!!
Stumpy--great stuff--thank you. I couldn't find the pdf instructions on the shopdustcollection.com you referenced in the video--just wondering if it's not posted yet. Thanks.
Stumpy, any update on how well this turned out after you used it for a while? I don'y think I have seen it in recent videos.... what are you using for ambient air cleaning these days?
I haven't moved it into the new shop yet, but it worked very well for the time I had it in the old shop. The new shop is larger so the Jet system is too small.
I have a portable unit that I move around where the dusty work is occurring. It's from Sterling. Kind of pricey. I have also tried to reduce the need for ambient air filtration by getting a Mirka sander and a good dust extractor (also a pricey option.) But since this channel is about solutions for small shops, I suspect you will see the Jet setup return, at least in the corner workshop area.
@@StumpyNubs I rescued an in house vacuum system that works great with the sander and cost me $0 and that really does help... but what do you think of the powermatic benchtop unit #1791331? Or the Axiom Stratus for ambient air filtering? I still like your solution from a price/performance standpoint!
Nice job of explaining and some innovative thinking which you're good at! I haven't thought about 6 inch drier duct. Only using the small stuff. I haven't done much maintenance since I bought my grizzly AFS. Purchased it as the Jet was receiving some serious bad mechanical reviews at the time. Keep up the great thinking. I've seen the longer versions of your duct collection and they are worth watching! I'm still trying to catch up with you and Mike. LOL!
Thomas Tieffenbacher Dryer duct works for an AFS because it's low pressure. But the bigger stuff is a lot better. 4" must be really killing your airflow!
stumpy I know I am late to asking a question but was wondering would this same set up work if I used a shop fox , grizzly or a wen air filtration unit and just a smaller filter. I am I the navy an have a small shop in my garage but I can't justify spending almost 400 on a unit when I really want to when I could jet one for 160 ish. please let me know what u think it would be great cause I got to get a handle on the dust situation. thanks
I don’t think this such great idea. Your running a bunch of dust laden air through the motor of the AFS. That could cause a premature death of your motor or worse a fire.
