at 2:89 you mention the removable pan from Wynn Environmental. i looked at their website and i can't find it. do you know if it is still available? Also, i don't see the plans on your website to build this. Are they still available? Thank you. I love this series. it is very informative.
I worked in a coal fired power plant that used high tech filter bags to filter coal ash out of the exhaust. They could clean the bags often and quickly from a panel in the control room whenever they saw the pressure rise. They also had high tech equipment that monitored how many dust particles were going up the stack and not being caught by the bags. What they found out was if they cleaned the bags at the first sign of back pressure they had more ash going up the stack. If they kept the bags a little bit clogged the dust in the bags would help filter out the smaller particles of ash. How you would figure out what that sweet spot is for wood dust I do not Know. First you would have to measure the amount of dust going into the bags and the amount coming out. Point is don't be a purest and clean the filter spotless after each use. Leave some dust in the filter to help filter out the small particles of dust.
NotAnExpert - What you are referring to are filter bags, which depend on "seasoning" with fine dust to achieve peak filtration. All bag filters, even on woodworking dust collectors need a fine film left on them. Air has to escape through tiny holes in the media. In cloth bags, those holes can only be so small, so they use chemical coatings to reduce the size, and then rely on fine dust to partially clog the holes to make them even smaller. That's why you don't wash them, just bang them out a bit. On the other hand, what I am referring to are canister filters which achieve their set level of filtration directly from the manufactured media. A layer of dust does not change that, and too much dust will start to decrease the efficiency.
What does it mean if the water goes below zero on startup - all gates closed and filter bagged? Then when I took off the main feed to the blower, the water shot out the top.
Great video and a good overview of how to install and "Calibrate" your Manometer. You did claim that a single stage dust collector wouldn't produce as much back pressure as a cyclone system. `However if the single stage unit is rated at the same pressure discharge it would produce the same back pressure. Would you consider creating a Manometer to measure the vacuum rather than the discharge pressure?
I made one of these and attached it to my Delta 50-760. When I covered the Wynn filter with a bag and tried to measure the 'full' side, it blew the water right out of the tube. Very messy! Any thoughts on why this would happen? Would the height the manometer is placed affect it? There is about 10 feet of tubing. Thanks!
OK James I mounted my Wynn filter on a Harbor Freight single stage vacuum. The manometer inlet is on top of the Wynn filter. When I seal the filter water shoots out of the top of the manometer no matter how little liquid I use. Thoughts?
Use a longer tube or use a more dense liquid like mercury. The height depends on the pressure difference, so if you have a really high pressure, you'll get a lot of height before it stops. A more dense liquid won't travel as high for the same pressure. Mercury is about 13.5x more dense, so the change in height will be 1/13.5 as much.
@@reverse_engineered I solved it by putting a plug with a very small hole I it. The back pressure was enough to slow down the initial surge at turn on. Works fine now.
I watched your video a few times, but I am uncertain about the test for clean filters. Is this done with all the gates open or closed? Thanks for the tutorial!
Seems that if you have a system with less cfm, using smaller diameter tubing would be a good idea. With a smaller system, the "scotch" isn't going to move as far from clean to max. The smaller the hose the further the liquid will move, giving you a more accurate reading. Yes, no?
No. The "head" distance is independent of the area of the cross-section of the tube; it is only dependent on the pressure differential and the density of the liquid. Recall that pressure is force per unit area. The pressure acts on the fluid from two places: the ambient pressure outside (the open end of the tube) and the vacuum or discharge pressure on the other end (connected to your equipment). A difference in pressure between the two sides causes a force proportional to both the difference in pressure and that area. However, that force lifts the liquid against the force of gravity. The amount of force from gravity depends on the volume of the liquid displaced, which depends on the cross-sectional area of the liquid, the height that it is displaced, and its density. Note how the force applied to the liquid by the pressure and the force applied to the liquid by gravity both depend on the cross-sectional area. Because of this, the cross-sectional area cancels out and the only thing that determines the height is the difference in pressure and the density (mass per volume) of the liquid. Less dense liquids will rise more with the same force from pressure (since the force from gravity is lower), but they also tend to evaporate quickly, so water is a common choice. Oils are a close second. Mercury is more common for high pressure situations.
At the very bottom of the cyclone, just above the bag clamp. By the way, do you have a cage inside the bag, to keep it from collapsing and rendering the system worthless? Just a reminder: Even small leaks at the bin trample cyclone performance.
Super. I have thought for some time that a water trap, kinda like a hookah, between the cyclone and the filter would catch a lot of the fine stuff. I haven't seen any videos doing this yet. Any thoughts?
stephen dickinson Sort of like those vacuum cleaners that you put an inch or so of water in the bottom of the canister? That's a good thought I wonder if someone has looked into that. Now you have my gears whirring!
David Taylor I was thinking of a pvc pipe with 1/8" holes in it, just under the water. The air with very fine dust would be forced out the small holes so the dust would be captured by the water. perhaps.
First of alI thanks for the video. I have had a clear vue for about 4 years and it has worked great--until recently. The motor will turn off while I'm using it because the thermal protector trips off. It has done this 3 times and the last time I reset the switch and blew out my filters while running a shop vac at the clean-out port. Didn't seem too dirty. Cathy, (at clear-vue), thinks my filters are dirty. My clear vue is identical to yours except I have the clear vue clean-out at the bottom of my filters. On the clean out there is a 4" pvc pipe that has a pvc cap on the end that I take off to vacuum out the dust. Would it work if I just drilled a hole in the cap just big enough for the clear hose adapter and run my tubing from there? The pvc cap just slides on and off by hand, it's not glued, and then just hang my manometer on the wall beside the filters. Do you see a problem with using the pvc cap at the bottom of the filters? thanks tim
You ca try it. Worst case scenario is you need a new PVC cap. I just wonder if, since the air stream blows directly down the filter stack, if that would affect it. Before doing any of that, I would clean the filters really well by blowing compressed air on the outside surface. Then open your clean-out and see how much dust you end up with. Then see if your motor stops giving trouble...
I just cleaned the filters last week with a hand held leaf blower and compressed air with a shop vac hose stuck in the clean out, then today the motor tripped off only after 5 or 6 hrs of use.
Hey +stumpynubs is the hand plane second from the left a low angle Kuunz? That green with the cherry handle? Loving everything you and mustache mike are doing for woodwork on youtube! Being in the middle east and so far removed from craftsmen, you are a major resource!
