We need to get a leg day vlog in after your season. I'll make you unable to walk for a couple days 😆. Weighted rear foot elevated lunges will absolute nuke your quads.
7:12 & 7:27 You repeated this move, for me is a low key high level move, I had similar climb today and I couldn't make it. As always, I'm amzed by your strength in handling these slopers ! 💪💪
Have you ever tried Tenaya shoes? I know there's a whole world of shoes, and they're also very person-specific because everyone has a different shape. I'm still super inspired by your channel. Every time I watch it, I want to go to a gym and train.
Tibialis raises with a bent knee can help. I'm so freaky tall that putting a heel behind the toe hook hold to shorten my leg can sometimes do the trick too.
Sissy squats are a great, Really deep stretch on the quads. can be made harder with more depth and eventually doing them from a ledge and going below your feet or even adding weight if you have access to something like a smith machine ( using just a barbell is really unstable since the balance of them is already hard) Also reverse Nordic curls are great for many of the same reasons except they are easier to weight (but much harder normally)
For imporving toe hooks, i personnaly feel like quad strenght does not matter that much, as when you do one with a bent leg, you need to do a hip flexion and not a a knee extension (although one part of the quad also helps with that and you still need to lock the knee in position its quite minimal).I'm 187cm and i feel like what helped me was flexibility mostly of the calve and the hamstring cause i see that a lot of people who struggle with toe hooking are barely flexible enough to put their legs up in the same position. Not sure if thats and issue for you you seem pretty flexible. Another thing that i worked on but im not quite sure if it works is doing tibialis strenghening exercises. cool video as always !
Anybody have experience with the up moccs? Or even the 510 moccs? Wondering if they would make a good burner gym shoe that u can still climb reasonably hard in but are cheaper than normal shoe since theyre slippers
For toe hooks I set up fix a band to an immobile object, lie on my back, loop one foot at a time so the band is pulling "down" as your lying on your back then doing a hollow body hold keeping both feet a few inches above the ground for about 30 seconds per set. I hope that made sense... All that being said your toe hooking abilities lead me to believe you'd send Full Sized Man at Farley in a session and you probably need something harder >
@@richardsonsclimbing 😅 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HoWmtRZlTt0.html David Fitzgerald describes the same sort of thing around 43:00.
When you have a bouldering session like this and flash a problem, or get it in 1-2 tries, do you repeat it to fine tune the moves or find a more efficient solution or move on?
I always try to get as much variety as possible in a session, so I usually won’t repeat boulders. My most important training philosophy for competitive bouldering is to try as many different boulders as I possibly can, and this trains my body to solve new boulders as fast as possible! That’s not to say repeats aren’t valuable, I find that they just hold me back from what I consider to be the most important aspect of my training! Maddie and I were just talking about this topic haha
Ahaha the difficulty level is actually perfect! I’d rather than on a wide variety of v10 boulders rather than project a v14! And if I really do want to I can find a local spray wall ;)
i dont know if this is a good exercise for the position you are talking about but I find my legs feel strong and healthy when I do suitcase style dumbbell carry squats with my heels on a small plate, I like to keep my arms straight and hold two dumbells to the side of my and keep my legs together in the squat!
when you are doing say medium difficulty boulders, what is the average rest time between tries (the cut parts of the video) and the same question, about the rest time between these 5s hangs in the end(it was sped up in the video)?
12:00 - Do you have any recommendation how to train your toes, to stand on jibs like that? I know it's often better to stand with the tip of your shoe, but whenever I do that, I feel like my toes are about to explode.
I occasionally do single leg calf raises where I press up onto just my big toe at the end of the movement. You can use some assistance from like a pole or table at first to help you get onto your toe and I usually build up how long I hold that top position to mimic standing on a jib for a long time. Once you don’t feel as bad standing on jibs in the gym you can switch to just using that to train. Downsizing or stiffer shoes (unless you really need to) is just pushing the problem down the road and you’ll have to deal with it eventually
@@richardsonsclimbing Damn! That's a good deal. For normies, paying 28$ every time you want to change gym kinda sucks. Wish there was a global pass of some sort!
The Flagship really are the flagship shoes of unparallel, so, naturally, their strength is not gonna be parallel, it's gonna be (...) _unparallel_ Thank you, thank you. Tickets on sale now.
