SOK 12V 280Ah... www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/12v-280ah-lithium-battery-built-in-heater-and-bluetooth/?ref=lithiumsolar Please let me know what you think of this brand new battery! (affiliate links)
@@LithiumSolar Check also for cracked, cut fuel injector cables as they fuse together with heat and time, if its an Audi or AG. and the fuel rail pressure sensor, if audi, its in the fuel pump in the gas tank, check if holding gas pressure. Your engine looks like a german engine.
@@AlexTiburex It's a 1ZZ. Will check injector wiring. Already tested fuel pressure at practically all RPMs - it's in spec. I think it will be coming out here soon. It's due for timing components anyway, chain is rather stretched.
I really like the reviews you do. You are a natural teacher your explanatory are clear and easy to follow. I like this battery l'm thinking of it replacing all 4 of my lead acid 6V batteries.
Way better than having the spray foam in the build. You know the junk stuff used before. It’s just looks so much better and no empty space on any of the sides. Also setting them on a table would make scratches. Time to use something like felt or rubber pads to stop them from scratching anything. Thumbs up 👍 for the review 😊
With the weight of that battery, I would be inclined to put the battery onto a wooden board, or maybe a soft plastic sheet. Felt or rubber pads would punch through quite quickly.
I love the idea of a metal case! And although it isn't waterproof, the aluminum won't rust in the salt air environment of my boat. Heat is the mortal enemy of lithium batteries, and placing them inside a plastic case seriously degrades heat dissipation. This will be my next battery purchase to finally replace the last AGM on my boat that I've kept because I didn't want to load my lithium batteries with the 100 amp draw from my inverter. I'll configure it on a separate bank with a schottky steering diode to permit cascading the current across to my other lithium bank - a one-way cross feed configuration. Thanks so much for the video! So far, I haven't seen a review from any of the other presenters. You scooped them all!
As always, a thorough and accurate review. Thanks LS. Nicely designed battery - typical of SOK. That circuit board used is a very nice idea for the balance and BMS connections - serves the additional requirement of isolating the top of the cell pack. I like that. There are some advantages to series connect these batteries when portability and flexibility: 1/ they are lighter to move around individually, 2/ sometimes you need 12V, sometimes 24V and others 48V. 3/ You can balance them by attaching independent chargers to each battery, providing the chargers are isolated, and it doesn't matter what configuration you have (4p1s, 2p2s or 1p4s). 4x 12V chargers are not that much more expensive than a single 48V charger I think.
Have you ever tried balancing one of these batteries by switching to a variable power supply that matches the balance current? In theory if you matched the balance current that would 0 out any current going to any cells that have hit the cell balance voltage and provide that minimal 60-120mA (depending on BMS) current to the lower voltage cells. Assuming you don’t have any cells below 3.40V (the beginning of the knee) you should be able to get those cells up to the balance voltage within a couple days (100mAx48 hours=4.8Ah put into each cell….not sure how much capacity exists in a 280Ah cell in between 3.40V and 3.60V but probably more than 5Ah so hopefully you’re starting with minimum cell voltages above 3.50V since that I would imagine is less than 5Ah to 3.60 on a 280Ah cell) Obviously adding power resistors to the high cells to draw them down would be the much more efficient method as a 1R 100W resistor can pull 3.6W and stay plenty cool in a 100W shell to be safe enough to be placed near the cells is you just had some ring terminals on a short length of wire attached to your power resistors. That could drop your balance time to a matter of hours. And obviously an active balancer is going to be the most efficient method though if you have one very high cell the power resistor method is going to be better to implement. Is there ANY off the shelf battery that provides a JST XH 2.54 or JST VH 3.8/3.9(?) mm connector that allows the consumer to connect an active balancer or an RC Lipo balance charger/ISDT BG8S/7S Capacity Controller/some other passive balancer? This is my main gripe with LiFePO4 batteries. Trying to educate someone new to lithium when they have a battery displaying out of balance characteristics becomes difficult. A simple “what is the max charge voltage?” Question becomes a long winded “well what does your charger cut the voltage off at” followed by “well here’s how balancing the cells work and here’s why you aren’t cutting off at 14.6V” If these batteries came with an “accessory” port that was a JST (maybe with an adapter to go from the larger VH to the XH) we could simply instruct new users how balancing works and to pick up an active balancer for $10 off Aliexpress. The only caveat to that is convincing them that the balancer should only be used at the top of the SOC and once balanced it should be removed and there is no need to check it again for probably another 500 cycles so long as quality cells were used. For how cheap active balancers are I would even include one with batteries I sold and a one page instruction sheet….then again I wouldn’t sell batteries that shipped to consumers so wildly out of balance that charging cuts off below 14v (yes I’ve seen this in numerous budget batteries)
I have always loved your reviews!!!! THANK YOU!! One thing, I have NEVER seen the lugs located on the side of one of these batteries. This would definitely create a problem for my installing them. 🙃
Now you highlited, what I mean with the balancing issues of some of the other batteries, you reviewed. Last time, you did not agree to me. But I am glad you put attention on this topic now as well.
I don't recall ever disagreeing when it came to heated batteries. My opinion has changed a bit on seriesing non-heated batteries as there are now MANY 48V choices available compared to where we were 2 years ago.
Yes, for SOK own made BMS, we build a strong balance function, balance current up to 120mA, and after balanced, the battery cells voltage difference would be in 20mV @@Raphael_Hofmann
Nice to see heaters becoming more common, but I wish online reviews would do real-world testing of low temp performance. Like freezing solid for a week, then trying to wake it up in multiple charge states while still in cold conditions. Hard to know if the heaters actually do anything useful in the kind of conditions where you need them.
I don't think it's really intended to thaw a battery that's been frozen solid for a week. It's difficult to do real-world testing during the Summer. I can revisit this in a few months over Winter.
@@LithiumSolar Hehe. I'll wait for winter! A lot of people have intermittent use cabins they use in the winter and keeping batteries warm is significant issue
Really? I have 4 of their rack batteries and don't have any problems at all. Which batteries do you have and what is the balance problem - balancing between batteries or balancing between cells within the batteries?
Nice, but would cost $4800 for four of them to get 48V. I can build one in a server rack kit for around $2300 or less. That being said, I own 4 of the 12V 100ah SOK's, which I LOVE. These batteries have some of the best build quality available.
Yeah, as I said in the end - I would NOT suggest buying 4 of these for a 48V system. You're better off buying a few sever rack batteries, which would actually be cheaper for the same capacity.
@@darthtater It doesn't have to be used in a rack. The side ears are optional and if you don't attach them, you literally have a perfectly-rectangular box that can be mounted horizontally or stood up vertically. I'm not sure what more you would be looking for? A square form-factor?
Definitely great seeing EVE and other brands using these significantly beefier laser welded bus bars....although I do wonder if there is any noticeable benefit in IR to your typical threaded hole since the bus bar would lay directly on the terminal. Don't you own an RC3563 or YR-1035+? I seem to remember seeing you use one or ask about it on the forum. Would be awesome if you took some measurements in these review videos. Overall battery IR from + to - terminal, maybe individual bus bar IR, cell IR, etc. I think seeing who is matching cell IR would be beneficial. Also measuring cell voltage at the end of the capacity test would give us an indication if they are matching cell capacity as well.
I've got a few questions.... Does this battery ever re-enter a sleep state? How does this BMS work when it determines that the battery is full? Does it disconnect from the charger? Is it ok to leave this battery with a continuous 13.6V applied charger voltage? Great review :-) I think I want one of these.
I can't speak FOR them; however, I think it's unlikely we will see a 24V version. They have a 24V 100Ah battery and it never sold well from what I understand due to most people stepping up to 48V whom needed more than 12V.
@@LithiumSolar I sure wish I'd built a 48 volt system. I built a couple different 24 volt systems qnd they work great but it would be nice to have twice as many panels on my charge controllers. I have now built 2 lifepo4 batteries that are 3p8s at 840 ah 24 volt and I have 1 battery built from 24 leaf modules that I never use anymore. My primary inverter running my holiday rambler is a 4000 watt 120-240 sungold and real similar to the one you did the review on in the black housing. I'm using 150-70 victron charge controller. I wish I had the confidence to make videos like you are doing. Thanks for what you do man it's good seeing other people have the same hobby and interests
I'm not a fan of those terminals on the side for use in a mobile application. Space is limited in a trailer/rv to start with so batteries are often fit snug, this creates an install headache. I'd pass and just use one of their other batteries. Great tear down video.
I can understand from the mobile point of view. For home energy storage though I've come to really like side terminals, so much easier to install and service.
That just makes the handles more obtrusive to deal with on its side. I also prefer my cell vents vertical, so I'd still go with a different model in this situation.
Works fine for my fifth wheel. To each their own. I don't see how this would hinder anyone doing a new install. Maybe adding to an already established install could cause issues, but otherwise......
Hi, I do like battery case, I do not like poor BMS, no CAN support and messy specification. Sok BMS SK4S120: Max charge 70A Max discharge 120A But information on web says: Max charge 120A Max discharge 200A For me this is not honest, it is funny this was not spotted on video.
Great review. I am thinking about buying this battery because of the build quality and because it is repairable. I checked and the BMS is available from SOK. But I did not see the cells as a replacement part. Especially this cell with the welded busbar bracket. Anybody know where to get cells for this battery?
The GFB cells are not as common as EVE and other brands, let alone with that particular terminal style. I would check with SOK regarding whether or not they sell replacement cells. I don't see why they wouldn't sell you the parts required for repair if it wasn't covered under warranty for some reason.
recommended discharge current and maximum discharge current are two different things. The text you're seeing on the BMS is recommended, not maximum. Please see the datasheet on their website if you're not sure of the specifications.
@@a2022z2 I don't know what to tell you. It says 200A right on SOK's website. Also, Current Connected does not sell this battery so perhaps your inquiry was misunderstood.
You you are right. Sorry For the confusion. The later example I was giving was with regard to the 206 Ah model. Current connect have it at 100A. SOK writes 170 A.
So my only thoughts on 4x 12v compared to 1x48v server rack is the sheer weight handling and accessibility. Here in the uk, if I add a battery during a solar install there is no VAT. If I do it later it’s +20% Against that the markup on the batteries is saved with DIY after install, and a choose of batteries (SOK not offered by uk installers that I can find) - any thoughts?
Hi, I have 2 SOK 206Ah, it marked 100Amps discharge current, but in fact, it run to 170Amps current. Could you test this SOK 280Ah 12V maximum discharge current ? Thank you!!!
I would not exceed the manufacturer's recommended discharge current even if the BMS allows it. The BMS are typically programmed a bit higher to avoid nuisance tripping.
It's shaking at low idle. I've already addressed all of the common maintenance items. Low compression in cylinder 4 that I think is the result of a cracked or otherwise damaged piston ring. Head is coming off as soon as my parts come in :)
What is that on the lower right corner of MOSFET transistor Q10? Is that heatsink pad adhesive, a flaw in the epoxy case, or a crater where the MOSFET got smoked? If it failed after assembly, there will be residue on the component side of the heatsink pad.
Yeah at 1:05 the aluminum 280Ah weighs at 73lbs which is not as efficient as their older steel case 206Ah at only 48lbs. Any idea why?? In metric: 206Ah 22kg=9.4Ah per kilogram 280Ah 33Kg =8.5Ah per kilogram
Curious to see if they stop producing the 206ah battery. It’s already not on the SOK site but Current Connected still has them. I was building a bank of the 206ah batteries and am worried I’m not going to be able to buy anymore.
Where are you looking? On the SOK official US site, they're still selling the 206Ah batteries - both the plastic non-heated and metal heated versions www.us.sokbattery.com/products/?ref=lithiumsolar
Because of anti-globalist "Murica" patriotic people who think anything "China" is bad. Likely the same people who aren't aware that damn near everything they buy is sourced from a foreign country.....I say let them pay twice for the same thing. They're idiots. The "American made" companies are still likely sourcing their parts from China or elsewhere. The most they can hope for is ASSEMBLY or DESIGN in the US, if that is even the case. Many companies touting AMERICAN MADE are still selling foreign sourced products. They just have a US base of operations, so they feel justified in using that nomenclature. My opinion. Sorry to rant.
Great video! Thanks! Reading the manual, it doesn't look like any adjustments can be made using the Bluetooth app. I like to set my cell low voltage cutoffs at 2.7 volts (10.8 pack volts assuming perfect cell balance). The factory setting is 2.6 volts (per spec sheet). Do you know if any other BMS apps work with this battery allowing the params to be set: OverKill, etc?
It’s a custom BMS so the custom app is the only one for it. the settings are for battery protection not controlling discharge. Turn up your inverter cut off voltage if you want to stop at 2.7. The BMS is only your backup in case the primary shutoff mechanism fails.
@@HighTechLabThanks for the reply. Unfortunately, my inverter can't monitor individual cell voltages. Can yours? At the bottom of the discharge curve, even the best battery has divergence in cell voltages.
No, I'm not aware of any way to change this. I would not suggest modifying the factory settings either nor do I understand why you would want to. Voltage drops so fast at this point that there is practically no difference between 2.6V and 2.7V. You might see a difference of 500mAh or so - negligible.
The rigid busbars are not a concern to me because the cells are fixed in a metal frame, which is then in a metal box... I don't think they're moving anywhere.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you. In their lit is says 120 is the max, 56 recommended. So I'm unclear here. "SOK SK12V280H Charge Information: Maximum Charge Current: 120 A. Recommended Charge Voltage: 14.6 V." I plan on buying one at first then adding one if needed and replacing the 2 200AH I have now, two years old and they won't charge more than 13.6. Obviously I made a poor choice of brands to begin with. Appreciate the reply.
feel bad for people tricked into SOK like I was. After 20 batteries I had to finally stop using them in my business. The BMS, yes even the newest one, are garbage. And customer service is abysmal. They do not stand behind their product. For light loads and single battery setups they will work totally fine like any battery will. Large loads and especially multiple battery parallel banks....total nightmare with cell balancing over time. Their BMS is simply well behind other batteries in this price range like Epoch and Kilovault. Just keep in mind RU-vidrs are here to sell you thing. And SOK has one of the best affiliate kick backs in the industry. Which is why issues are swept under the rug.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Did SOK give any reason why they wouldn't address the issues you were having? I have a lot of their batteries, many of which I purchased myself, and have not had any issues with them. I'm running 4x of the 48V rack batteries in parallel and have been for several months. I'm here to review batteries, not sell them to you. These are not advertisements/commercials like you see on other channels.
@@LithiumSolar as one would expect. They come to throw shade, then never answer anything asked about their specific experience. Likely a troll/misinfo spreader......
@@LithiumSolar Instead of protecting the battery from external heat loss, the electric mat will heat the elements themselves because it stands between them. This does not meet the task of protecting the battery from the cold, and not heating it itself. I would install these electrical mats along the inside walls of the enclosure. I hope you understand the machine translation. )))
em, this is a good question. When you install the heater pad around the battery cells, it would have one issue, the battery cell surface temperature is warm up, but inside temperatures still not. if you add the heater pad between the battery cells, and install the temperature sensor on top of it, the heater would go slowly through the battery cells to temperature sensor, it would mean the whole battery warm up.normally, in very cold location, we would suggest customer add something surround the battery to keep warm. Only the internal heater pad is not enough....@@AirCors
The fact is that all heating elements must block the cold from the battery and create a suitable microclimate in the middle of the box, thereby ensuring the operation of the battery. In your case, the heated space between the elements does not prevent the bottom of the box and its long side walls from freezing. And the warm air that circulates freely in the middle of the box and rises up can confuse the sensor, which is also located at the top, and allow the battery to work when its bottom is frozen and unusable. This is easy to check by placing sensors around the battery cells and placing the battery on a cold surface. @@sokbattery
