I use this label maker amzn.to/45tj0NO with this printable heat shrink cartridge amzn.to/45swFon . I don't like glue-based wire labels as they always leave sticky slimy residue and collect dirt/dust.
HOWdy L-S, ... THANKS = I have a GROWATT SPF 6000T DVM-MPV that I am quite satisfied with but these EG4 6000XP's seem quite interesting & Adequate I'm anxious to hear you 1-month / 3-month / 6-moth / reviews COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ... ps: I have never been able to configure my Growatt WiFi Dongle (because I do NOT own a CELLULAR Telephone ) & because they want me to broadcast my INFORMATION to CHINA ??? 😞 ...
Thank you for posting, I’m trying to find out if these inverters require each string of pv to be paralleled into each inverter? Electrician in me seems to think that this makes sense but obviously only 2 moots per inverter and you have 3 strings so this wouldn’t work. Looks like you just brought your first two strings into one and the third string into the second. Secondly, if you only had two strings and 3 inverters would this mean one inverter doesn’t get any solar input? Hope this question makes sense.
With 2 inverters, you have 4 unique MPPT chargers. You do not need to connect the same solar string to two inverters. In fact, that would completely mess up the MPPT algorithm. You also do not need to have a solar input at all, so 3 inverters with solar panels on 1 and 2 but not on 3 would be perfectly fine as well.
Great review, That wireless dongle is a huge security flaw without a password, is there a way to enable password? (I don't see why they don't sell a dongle that combines switchable secure encrypted wireless and wired LAN combo), and would like to see the MPPT voltage minimum dropped to v48 or lower).
Looks nice and neat. I did similar with a 6x6 wire way and was able to use most of the provided knockouts, but I did make the battery one a bit larger just so they lined up with the nuts inside the inverter better. Think I punched it to 2”. I did want to ask about grounding. I have family licensed electricians. He told be to add a common ground bar inside the 6x6 wire way and then have all the devices connect to that common ground. His expectation was not to rely on the conduit between the inverter and wireway for grounding connection, this ensures the wireway is grounded to a mechanically connected set of screws, just like in a electrical panel. I think since this is smaller gauge wire vs larger wire there are grounding allowances in the code book, but that’s how I did it. Common ground bus mounted inside wireway back to electrical panel then inverter, batteries, and a victron charge controller I use for testing all run back to that common ground bar inside the wireway.
Logic would suggest this; however, the manual states they can be placed a minimum of 7.9 inches apart and mine are further. Perhaps I can put a piece of hvac duct metal bent at a 45 angle to direct some of the air outward instead of directly in to the next unit.
Been waiting on this one! And you aren't wrong about the internet connected device craze. It's not useful in many cases, and it's always a security risk. I would much rather have my own subnet connected through a router that doesn't allow incoming connections at all than have the "convenience" of easily connected devices. The Internet of Things should be managed by offline modules you can choose to update over your own network but never communicates beyond your home network without permission and absolute necessity. Household appliance manufacturers are no more ready for harmful code injection than your nearest great grandmother is on her iPhone. There are way too many unknown faults that could cause real world harm.
Looking great, however the open wireless would be a deal breaker for me. There are libraries for WPA2 and 3 encryption, it's not as if they'll have to write this code from scratch and skimping on this is quite a bad look. I would push them hard to address this vulnerability.
I've been using the Solar Assistant for a while now on a smaller system, and it works pretty good, though for me it will occassionslly lose connection and you have to manually disconnect and reconnect (through the software). I asked about either auto reseting when it disconnects, or at least give some notification, however, he said he hadn't heard of the problem. I found a few other people mentioning it on other forums. Still a nice system, it's just annoying when it happens.
80% derate rule only comes into play when you are pulling 100% of the circuit breaker and wire size for 3 hours of continues draw from your circuit breaker panel then after the 3 hours you can only draw 80% this is due to the heat that is built up in the circuit breaker and wire. Temperature rating of the wire needs to be 90 degree C.
Correct, the time for a load to be classified as "continuous" is 3 hours. This inverter can exceed that, thereby I sized the breakers 1.25x as required.
Good job on bundling the grounded conductor with its ungrounded conductors. It is a NEC requirement when multiple grounded conductors share the same conduit.
To disable or encryp the WiFi dongle: Find the IP address the dongle got from your router and access it via a web browser. The default login is admin/admin. Select "English", and then you can adjust the "Wifi Mode Setting" to either disable the "AP Mode", or in the "AP Mode Setting" tab, you can enable encryption and add a password. I recommend leaving the SSID to it's original name otherwise the EG4 app wont be able to find it. This is working fine for me. Good luck, Mr Goodbits
@@tomarq Ah ok, what your describing only applies to the BA adapters. Mine is a BJ adapter and does not appear to be responding on any of the common web ports.
Great vid! I saw the SOK and EG4 batteries if I am not mistaken. Are they connected together? In other words, can one connect two batteries from different manufacturers in parallel with no ill effects? Thank you.
@@LithiumSolar Okay. Thanks. Could you do a video on how you connected them and explain these parameters and sizing. It would be an eye opener for someone like me because I have been under the impression that you must use only the same batteries in a parallel configuration.
I use this label maker amzn.to/45tj0NO with this heat shrink cartridge amzn.to/45swFon . The pin terminals (ferrules) are great when they're called for. The terminal blocks on the Batrium stuff pretty much requires them. They prevent strands of wire from breaking off and are good for stress relieving. They have their purpose. I would not use them on any of the inverter stuff or high-current items. I think I saw in the EG4 manual that they explicitly tell you NOT to use ferrules.
I don't have the Victron Lynx, or any other Victron components. I use a Batrium BMS for my self-built battery banks (not shown in the video) which uses the shunt I installed.
Does the unsecured inverter SSID give you access to settings or just for monitoring ? Wired dongle $200 seems like they just want you to use wifi, that’s disturbing in so many ways.
Great job on the install! I'm partial to the conduit/wireway look. It just makes things look nice and clean! Looking forward to your future tests on this inverter. I sent you a message on the forum with a link to a doc that might help you add a password to the WiFi dongle. YT doesn't like links in the comments if they don't come from the creator. Regarding the fans on the inverter, I've seen other folks buy floor register diverters and put them on the discharge side of the inverter so you're not feeding warm air from one inverter directly into the other inverter.