I show how I have my 5000 BTU window installed efficient A/C that pulls 410w amzn.to/2lOeHI1 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases jimindenver.com for solar design, consultation and more
To those commenting on the overheating issue, thank you for your suggestions. I experienced issues before I removed the louvers from the grate. The A/C has not had a issue since then and ran 12 hours daily in heat up to 112 degrees for a few months in Quartzsite. I will add a drip line if I am ever foolish enough to go where it is humid.
I worry about all the people that will try to emulate your project (it does look great) without the safety concerns that I assume you've addressed. If you are using solar power to run a/c then I assume you don't have the huge start up spike required but others may use "raw" electricity, may not be in the desert & may have issues that you don't.
I like the idea! When I do projects like this I always come up with something I could have done better. Do you have any thoughts or guidance on what you'd do differently? For example, instead of cutting a large section of the wall, what would you think of using a louvere dryer vent with a fan assuming you had enough cfm to exhaust the heat. Thanks for sharing!!
I think I would save my pennies and buy the 12 volt roof A/C for around two grand. lol Seriously thought, there are some good ideas in the comments and most are adjustments to what has been done already. Extending the center area will help eliminate recycling heated air. Top and side vents can still be added if need be. I can not cut the strut because it's not just load bearing which framing would take care of. It's part of the rigidity of the wall right above a axle of a vehicle that goes on very rough roads. There isn't room for a drip pan but drilling through the side of the unit will make it easy to add a drip line. A through the wall unit might be better for venting but I chose this A/C because it uses the fewest watts running. I can run one off of the 750 watts on the trailer and two off of my full 1185 watt system while holding the voltage of the battery.
Jim, I worked A.C. for over 35 years here in Fla. The real answer to your problem of overheating, is to take the a.c. cover off the unit, thus eliminating that cabinet overheating problem. I have done this myself a few times with great results. Glad to help you out. Try it, it will only take a few minutes of time . Your good friend Vinny in good old Fla.
Kathy Bowen: By removing the AC cover off the unit, about how much larger than the AC unit does the hole in the outside wall need to be, to allow air into the side vents? Also any idea for a outside wall cover? I was hoping Jim would make a video of how he did it. I have an ambulance that I want to add a 5000 BTU window unit to. Thanks!
Hey Jim, hvac guy 38 yrs. I have a similar situation. You may want to separate the ambient outside air, going in thru the sides of the compressor, from the hot air coming out the back., otherwise that hot exhaust air will just circulate back thru the sides. Also, some 12v forced air would help assist in ventilating the back end of the unit. And yes, add a drain pan, just in case. Great vids, thanxx.
Sure miss your videos. I learned so much about solar from them! Would love to see more if you continue your channel. Thanks for all you've done to advance solar in RV living!
I added the same AC unit to my RV and also installed it inside a cabinet however I used under-mount drawer slides to enable the AC unit to extend outside thus allowing proper air flow and water condensation to drip outside. I also installed a RV compartment door around the AC unit so that when the AC unit is not used I can pull the AC back inside and close the door. I can also run the 5000 BTU unit on my solar power because it is only 450 watts. I also made a wood platform that sits on top of the drawer slides for the unit to sit on and made it so the condensation would still drip through the wood base. When cutting a hole through the RV I suggest having the compartment door on hand first because a square hole versus rounded corners requires different sizes of doors. You might find the rounded corners of the door might not cover your square hole in the corners!!!
That's pretty neat. The AC won't come flying into your home nor does it create access for any but the smallest critters. The hinged cover is a great idea too.
Wouldn't it be better to place it on some kind of rubber mat for vibration dampening? Also, what about all that empty space around the sides...won't heat and cold get into the camper from there?
Wow Jim! It’s so good to see you! Wish you were making more videos all the time. You’re so smart and have so much to give. I’ll be out there sometime soon!💕
@@solarboondocker4597 So, a follow up to my last email. The problem turned out to be a bad breaker. The installer used breakers instead of fuses and the breaker between the panels and the charge controller/inverter took a crap. It didn't trip, as it was still in the on position, it just failed like an open cicuit. We found a replacement breaker and we're back to charging the battery again! Stay safe, miss you guys! R i T
Good vid thank you! I remember seeing you in someone else's video showcasing your epic solar install please do more videos, this is great stuff especially detailing the system!
Thanks Jim In Denver (who isn't at the moment ;) I always appreciate your "I found a way to make this work!" approach to RVing challenges. Lots of great American let's git-R-done attitude is your gift to us. Thank you.
As a alternative to the traditional roof top unit I do believe a mini split is a better choice which I should have gave better context to my meaning. As a bonus removing the roof unit makes room for more solar panels. I apologize I didn’t mean to come across as comparing a mini split to a window unit which would be comparing apples to oranges.
So creative.....you never fail to amaze me with your ingenuity!! It is very professional looking in the cabinet. Can't wait to see how you do the outside vent. :)
Hi Jim! I want to be a solar boondocker too! :-) I'm actually installing my solar system all by myself! I'm super excited and anxious but I want to learn and be self sufficient. That's how I found you, learning about solar. Thank you for sharing your info.
Very ingenious! It’s a good, clean fit. I suggest that you install a screen behind the ventilation grate, to keep out uninvited critters. There are screens of various types, that should not affect the ventilation process, if applied correctly. Make sure to keep the cooling fins clean and open in order to get the best possible circulation of air over them. I have the exact same window unit, and it stays on, nonstop, every summer. I just keep the fins clean, and keep the drain tray clear of debris. Excellent installation!
That looks Great! Very nice job. I'm in Florida so I would put a pan under it to be sure any water makes it way outside the frailer metal siding. I can't wait to see the final product. I appreciate your sharing your tips and tricks
@@lifequest7453 Yup I've been troubleshooting those issues. AC is going above the stove hood. Condensation tube will be routed down through the existing space the hood vent is using. As for the hot air recirculating I will have a flip up exterior door and slide out barriers on either side of the unit to keep intake and exhaust separate.
you just gave me a damn good idea, I have an Alpinelite 36ft 5th wheel, I was dreading to put a 10k window ac in the living room, I have a access door to the outside that was blocked off by a previous owner of this 98 model, it was a small thin storage area on the slide out, even though it is way lower then optimal, I do believe it will cool off the area quite well as an auxiliary to the roof ac,,,, thanx for the inspiration !!!
Great concept for install but the AC does indeed need fresh air to cool efficiently and needs to be extended further outside the hole to get this. Also even though these newer units fling condensation onto the condenser for cooling if your in a high humidity area your going to have moisture issues inside that area. A fridge roof vent might be one solution for cooling air into the sides of the Ac.
Nice system you came up with. You could almost make a folding A frame style cover for the outside. Folded it would lay on the side of the camper due to gravity.
I also just added a Midea 8k BTU AC to my RV. It is a mini split with inverter technology, meaning it is soft start enabled. It runs at most at 710w but runs on average between 400 and 500w. Amazing and quiet unit. It is Amazon number one seller. I also installed it with a cutout in wall inside entertainment center and installed 24"x18" compartment door Drawer slides are also used so now when not in use slide AC inside and close compartment door. I mention this AC unit because I have the Frigidaire 5000BTU in my bedroom but it is way louder than the Midea and they both use about the same amount of power. Hope this helps your viewers.
Thanks Jim. I was recently forced to retire, and have a very meager retirement income. Consequently I'm planning to sell my house soon, and do the same thing, you and Bob are doing. Boondocking. I enjoy traveling, and am a divorced father of two grown boys. So I have always planned on being a nomad, and am looking at different methods to be the nomad I want to be, without having a lot of stress and work, to keep my lifestyle going. I appreciate the knowledge and ideas you bring forth on your channel. BTW, I first heard of you on the Cheap RV Living channel. Keep on keeping on.... Greg
Omigosh, Jim! You are a GENIUS!!! Thanks so much! I was trying to figure out what to do when my "roof-top" AC goes out!! I'm NOT willing to pay up to $2k for a new one ;) Thanks again! I owe you! We all do!
Well done! I would consider putting some insulation around the air conditioner inside the cabinet to increase efficiency and quietness. Surround the A/C unit by insulating and filing the area where the exterior hole was cut. It is also a good idea to put a tray with a hole drilled and hose barb with hose to the outside under the A/C unit in case the water slinging of the fan is not able to keep up with the amount of water condensation, especially in high humidity. I have a similar unit. Eventually it will overflow and and cause damage if there is no way and nowhere for it to drain.
Another fine video! Wish we had a microwave in our rig that we could pull and put in an AC but they didn't do microwaves in 1960! Maybe you can help us find another suitable spot in January!
Thanks for this video, you are pioneering something that is new and you are ready to take on the task and you are succeeding, not just waiting for others to do the leg work or telling others how wrong they are. Great efforts and great video. Damn the torpedos, full ahead!! Subbing now.
If I have a yeti goal zero 1000 cud i run a 5k ac on it? I live in Florida so gotta have ac and gonna be off shore power soon. I gotta figure something out cus a cant use a generator and be stealth. What do U suggest?
You need to keep the intake and the exhaust separate. One option is a refrigerator roof vent directly above. RV builders do this to avoid using an expensive though the wall AC. Use a white vent instead of the black ones. Should not be hard to do. Use 1/2 inch xps foam. Easy to work with.
@Ron Powell Heat loves rising.... Let the heat rise.... And the roof vent will already be hot from sun exposure. Draw the cool air from your side vent.
Would it be possible to put solar panels on hinged aluminum racks that fold down over the sides and back of your trailer when you're traveling and then put them up when you're parked so they would act as shades above your windows while also collecting sunlight to maximize how much solar you can have instead of being limited to what's on the roof or sitting out on the ground?
Hi Jim, I'm here from CheapRVliving .... I've seen you with Bob and thought I'd come on over and check out your site and say hi. Thanks for all you do, everything I know about solar I've learned from you so, thanks. I'm not on the road yet but I'm working on it. Hope you have a great day. Yes I subed and hit the bell. Thumbs up of course.
Very nice install and great job on the solar AC! I would add a tilted drain pan underneath, and an aluminum mesh cover outside. I bought a roll very cheap from Home Depot and custom made fly screen covers for all vents on my RV. At $20 per bug screen cover for tiny vent holes, this roll at $5 was the way to go. Someone made a good point about the hot air blown out being sucked back into the AC so do separate the air from outside. I would also add a small window awning over that AC for preventing rain and direct sun on AC.
Hi Jim, I am looking for some advice on what battery isolator I should get off Amazon? I'm not a full-timer. My secondary battery is only a lawn tractor lead acid battery. I only have a couple of dome lights to run in my camper. No plans for an invertor. I want to put the isolator in the trunk. Would a solid 12 gauge house wire be strong enough to run from the trunk to the main battery? What size fuse? Thanks John
Hello I would like to ask you a question but not one about this video. Do you know anything about back yard revolution 3-D solar panel towers? I need to know if it’s worth pursuing?
Thanks for the great demo and info! Can you recommend a good 12v air conditioner? I'd like to be able to run an AC of just my batteries (and some solar power) without needing an inverter! Thanks and God Bless!
Most Boondockers stay in desert/high desert climates. So the condensation is nil-to-none. Not like when I lived in NY and it dripped non stop during use.
Dealer has roof mounted energy star rated unit with structural plan and location for self installers. All new wall, window and rv roof mounted ac units come with low power consumption rotary compressors, instructions, hardware and seal kits.
I found out the hard way that there are Window AC units and Wall AC units. They get rid of their heat differently. A Window AC vents heat out the sides. A Wall AC vents heat out the back. Window AC units put in a wall will cool less or even shut down since it can not get rid of heat fast enough compared to being exposed directly to the air. Putting a meat thermometer in the side cavity is a good check for heat buildup.
Greg White, Yes. I believe it is the low-wattage, efficient, soft-start window unit he talked about previously. This may work. My old one did not, thus the forced research and “ah-ha” as the AC guy pointed at me and laughed;-). Just a seed to think about if there is an issue and for others doing a new purchase/install.
Greg White, we just pushed it further out the wall until the sides were exposed. Inelegant, but worked. However, there is a neat setup in a van that used a through the wall. I’m pretty sure I have the link. Back in a few.
Hi - I've been considering an AC setup like yours & planned on using a locking cargo / baggage door on the outside. They come in a wide range of sizes and are available on Amazon or if you're in the Phoenix area stop by Arizona RV Salvage - they have an incredible assortment of parts at decent prices. If you go that route consider how you want it to open - a gas piston for a cabinet door would hold it open and I think it'd be better to have sort of an "awning" above the cooling fins. Plan on using a fair amount of butyl tape and / or some Dicor sealant along with the self tapping screws with the built in rubber washer. I think they're the same kind that are used on corrugated metal roofs.
Im not sure about how that unit deals with the condensation I know he said it gets blown out or something but i assume with constant use it will need a drain system and also i think you need a bigger unit but i also love in central Texas
