Solder Seal Wire Connectors Review - Are They Any Good? - Shop Talk 

We heard your comments, bought a better heat gun, bought a different set of solder still connectors, and tried it again. Check out the results here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Janu2I8ofyY.html

I have used a few hundred of these things over the last 5 years. I have to tell you, they work great. I think you have a heatgun issue or bought a bad supply of them. When you;re using a heat and a little backstop, you want to get it close to the backstop. It should only take a few seconds. Again, I think this is your heat gun. Also, when you're using a lighter, DON'T hold the heat over one spot. Use some motion so that you don't burn the plastic like you did in the video. Honestly, your technique is bad. These are great tools for confined spaces and when you don't have a soldering iron. Way easier than dragging a soldering iron into the car.

I've used these on wiring for license plate lights for a new bumper on a truck. They held up good for 6 years and counting, in the wintry mountains of Pennsylvania. I bought mine at NAPA for a few bucks. I highly recommend them. All I used was a bbq grill lighter to heat them.

I’m glad I’m not the only one. The only ones that worked as advertised were the smallest ones in the kit.

I've used that style of solder connectors when doing recalls on Nissan sentras for the side impact (Satelite) sensors. It cost about $20 for just 4 solder/sleeves they give us and they work so well compared to the other kit I bought on Amazon. Definitely comes down to the manufacturer and price when purchasing those.

I have used those at work and they worked well. I just ordered some for in the field work. A solder iron is my first choice.

So I watched this video, looked at the product ratings and comments, then watched other videos. Verdict: Went and ordered it and I couldn't be happier. Thanks for sharing! =)

These will work great on low voltage and small wire applications. Anything greater than 14 gauge is probably asking a lot of these connectors.

I think you may have a heat gun issue. My son and I watched your video. I had just received a box of wirefy solder seal wire connectors and was ready to hook up my new trolling motor to my electric boat. I was bummed out when we saw your results so I told my boy I guess I'll just solder the splice I need and use heat shrink tube. He said why dont you try one on some scrap wire, since I had a full box of connectors and had purchased a new heat gun just for this project. I used a Master EC-200 brand gun set on high, 930 F temp, and high fan speed. The solder melted at about 30 to 45 seconds and I left it on for about a minute just for the heck of it. I then dunked it in water to cool it, since it was scrap wire and just a test connection. I wrapped my hand around one end of the wire and my son (24 yrs old, not a kid) did the same on the other end and we had a tug of war. We pulled so had the insulated wire started hurting our hands. The 12 gauge wire did not break and the connector did not pull apart. It surprised me! Due to the quick time the solder melted and the extent the plastic shrunk around my wire (more than in your video) I think you might just need a hotter temp gun or setting. I do agree with you that the flame method just destroys the insulation before a good solder connection is made. Thank you for such a thorough and well filmed video.

I'm field mechanic for a Cat dealer. Our forklift branded red connectors(they only sell red ones)I've used for several years without any problems and recommend to other new techs when repairing broken harness wires. I use a high/low heat gun and run in on high. You adjust the heat by moving your gun around. A few years ago I purchased some of the cheap solder connectors from Amazon to have extra on my truck and to have other sizes. They have a thinner shrink tube that burns through easily. I've tried the yellow connector once, but it never heated the wire up hot enough to flow the solder for a good connection, easier to solder and shrink tube it. I would only recommend using the blue, red and white if they are high quality and not the advertised ones.

Thank you. Was on the verge of buying a large set of these, but now I’m just gonna invest in a good iron.

I had the same problem with these connectors the middle solder would not melt correctly for me! Maybe the brand is crap that my dad bought but I really like how simple they should be.

I just saw these connectors the other day. I think I am going to hold off after seeing this video. Thank you for making this video.

Thanks for your video. I was thinking of getting some for repairing cuts in the perimeter wire for my robot mower. Hundreds of metres away from my soldering iron, just a very small wire, I think it might be handy in spite of the limitations you’ve shown.

Used these to put a new connector harness on my bass boat trailer wiring; they worked perfectly and all of my connections are solid and secure. Rather than 'butt' the wires against each other, I did create a twisted mechanical connection - bare wire to bare wire - and dipped them in flux before sliding the connector down over the join, with the exposed wire laying parallel to the wiring. Heat gun on high setting for about 35 - 40 seconds and the solder melted just fine. Bear in mind this was 10 - 12 gauge wire so the connectors are fairly small. I figure this is better than the 11 splices I found on the old harness when I stripped away all the bad wiring which was causing all sorts of problems. :)

Thank you, I was going to try them. But I had reservations. Personally, i prefer a solder connector with heat shrink cover. I prefer ring connectors whereever possible. I do use a trick I developed. After I have the joint made as I slip the heat shrink tobe over it, I put a dab of liquid electrical tape on the joint to ensure water proofing. The shrink compresses it nicely. I also use liquid electrical tape to brush over my ring connections. I have a theory you might comment on. In my opinion corrosion wicking up under the insulation of a wire contributes more to brittleness over time than the heat from current through the wire. I have noted wires appear to be more brittle at the ends. As current is constant over the entire length, then heat would also be constant.

Use a crimper. I’ve been experimenting with all of these, and they all have their applications I suppose. When tying back spare wires to a shield in military cables, I’ll use these, but for the actual signal wires I use high quality crimp tools similar to Deutch connectors. The more I work with wiring, the more I save the solder for circuit boards, where it shines.

I bought the 50 pc solderstick connectors to try out- they absolutely suck!!! And sucked… they plastics melts completely away at the time of trying ti melt the center. Great Video.

Thank you for confirming my suspicions. It’s a big “NO” for this former Navy Electronics Technician.

Good video but I'm curious what type of heat gun you use or maybe it's the brand of connectors. I've been using these and my heat gun melts the solder within 20 seconds or so

I love them just bought my second box they work right

I use these all the time in my boat. I love them

Thanks I was going to ordered these. Ill stick to soldiering and shrink tubing lol😁👍

I LOVE them. You can get good Ines and you can get bad ones on which the solder does not melt well. I use them to make clean joints on e-bike builds. You are right about holding the wires together while heating, but my soldering isn't the best. I have found a heat gun does work best. I have not had even the crumby ones fail out of a total of 300 I have used.

We use these in aviation maintenance. They work but there is better ways to make an environmental seal. The other ways take special tools. I think I'd rather solder the joint as well.

Thanks… I had the same experience and thought I was crazy!

You need to use a gas powered soldering torch by power probe for a good one cheap ones available at Lowes or Home Depot with the deflector attachment so that you can Have the heat hit it all the way around simultaneously, so that you do not burn the insulation, and as people who know how to Solder know you need to use the heat to draw the solder Out towards the ends of the wires, it takes a little perfecting your technique to get it right but I have done these for quite some time now and have achieved excellent results, I have also resistance tested them and found them to work fine, as with anything the procedure used to get from A to B can make or break your repair I will try to post a video on my channel of how to properly use these connectors soon, but thanks for doing this the video

A little hint, install the solder sleeve on one wire, twist both wires together, then slide the sleeve over both wires"centering the solder strip on bare wires, then using a heat gun preferably but not necessary, heat the solder sleeve until the solder melts, just don't overheat the plastic sleeve. You'll see a big difference 😊

I have that same Radio Shack heat gun. It works great for heat-shrink tubing, but it doesn't get super hot.

I just used these to fix my fuel pump connectors on my '97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and they worked great. After they cooled I could not pull them apart.

I thank you.

I just bought some, and was checking RU-vid videos to make sure I used them correctly, when I found this video. Made me go down stairs to check how mine worked(better than waiting until I was actually using them in my car). Mine worked great, and took about 20 seconds to complete a connection. I think you might have got a bad brand or a bad batch from that manufacturer. Either that, or you need a new heat gun. The ones I got were made by "Andoer" and cost $12.75 for 50 pieces. Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either.

I bought these exact solder connectors and have been using them for 6 months or so. They seem to be hit and miss just like in this video. My biggest issue with them is that sometimes I can't get the solder to melt before the wires and insulation start melting. Then other times it appears the solder halfway melts but will go no further. But sometimes it works perfect and you can tell you have a great connection. I wish they always worked like that. I'm a little bit upset because I've done some really difficult connections in my vehicles with these things and looking back I don't think I have solid connections. The biggest issue with these is clearly quality control because the idea is great. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a source from a reputable, high quality supplier. They are all made by Chinese firms and are cheap.

I think Brand matters. Raychem versions are used in Aerospace applications all the time and work very well

Thanks for sharing, like most people who commented I think using the spatula heat rather than a more direct heat source didn't help. Maybe you did get a poor batch but doubtful as they are massed produced. Looking forwar to watching a few more of your soldering vids

Mine worked perfectly

What brand name was the original that first came out with these type of connectors?

There are at least 9 other videos about these type of connectors in the recommended list to the right of this video. I wish I had a couple of hours to watch them all. I'm a big fan of soldering connections and using heat shrink tubing. I think of that as the gold standard. But, for wiring inside of a vehicle crimp connectors can be very reliable and much quicker. I've used wire nuts and I might even try Wago connectors. For the outside, I've had very good results with the crimp connectors that heat shrink and have glue in them.

I had same problem, the solder doesn’t melt and when using a torch lighter or regular lighter it burns the shrink tube...they are trash

Open barrel splices and heat shrink is the best repair possible, butt connectors of any kind are wildly antiquated

You just saved me $25 plus shipping! Thanks!!! BTW. your video is well done. My next step is to subscribe. Thanks again!!

Not having actually used one of these but years soldering wires in the broadcast industry my fear would be that the wire never gets hot enough for the solder to bond well to the wire. The solder might melt but unless the wire gets hot enough for the bond to happen the connection isn't any good. I would like to see amperage or resistance tests to prove the soundness of the connection.

An electrician i work with used them on his tractor and 4 wheeler. Said they worked great for him.

GRACIAS A TI

No, mine worked properly using a simple torch gun, perfect solder, good glue sealing on each side, not sure about the quality of your heat gun though..I find these connectors very helpful

I tried some of these a year ago and the ones I purchased, the solder melted a little easier than the ones you have I think.. or there was more heat? I dont know. But only time I actually used them was on boat trailer wiring in a pinch and they seemed to work ok. Was in a hurry and didn't want to take time to locate and drag my soldering iron, solder and clamps to do a solder, and it was in and awkward spot. Figured grab my heat gun and give them a try. But I recently looked the history of these up and they are referred to as environmental connectors. Surprisingly used in aircraft field. But if you look at the ones they use, they are quite a bit more expensive than these, definitely more expensive than I would want to pay, would just use solder and heat shrink. Also the commercial pieces use a crimp before heating. But they are designed to be a standard simple connection to meet requirements.

I’ve had the same issue I had high hopes and heat gun will not melt that solder. I even took my soldering iron to it and still won’t melt it.

Real solder and marine grade heat shrink is the way to go.

I used them to put a jet engine in my Mustang last spring, and the chicks really dig me.

I’m SOOOOO glad I found this video. I bought a huge set of these from Amazon and almost ran my rock lights with them. I would’ve been more than pissed to have had to rewire that whole thing because of faulty connectors.

Don’t just keep the flame on one spot, move it around the whole area to spread the heat evenly to get a better result and to avoid the burn spot.

My question is how much better would it have been if you first put rosin on the wires. I'm having difficulty finding any videos that compares this.

I much rather use a soldering iron and solder and a heat shrink. In a harness the repaired wire is shorter than the harness and I like to not put any heat or as little as possible on the remaining wires. I dont want the insulation cracking in an area which already has shown a problem. If need be in tight spots I put the insulation tap on and then more on the harness for stability. Thats the way they did it in my grandfathers day and it works. Just look at a vintage cars wiring.

Maybe someone needs to come up with a way to melt solder without heat. You'd clamp the thing around the joint and do it.

I did a little test of my own this morning using the same brand you tested. I used a heat gun which was very effective at shrinking the plastic, but the solder didn't really change. After it cooled I used a lighter to just heat the solder section. The reaction was weird. For about 20 seconds nothing seemed to be happening, then suddenly it's as if the whole solder ring melted at once, but at the same time, the plastic shrunk, popped pinhole and squirted hot solder out at me! So the connection would be fine, but it would need to be re-insulated as there is a breach. I wish I could post a photo.

I've got 3 different sizes on order with amazon and I'm curious how they will work. From reading the comments below, I'm suspecting the heat gun is partly the issue. I used to have a Harbor Freight heat gun and the best feature was its short lifespan. I bought a "Seekone" heat gun off amazon to replace it and the difference is night and day. It included a nozzle that is about 1/2" diameter as well as one with the backing plate to hold the heat.

Thanks for the video in REAL time and reminding us that in many scenarios, these are just not practical.

I have tried these several times and have never had a proper solder joint. I tried heat gun and lighter methods. One did look liked it worked but a small tug and it came apart. I even tried to add flux to the wires! No difference, a pity as they looked ok to do small joints on cars etc but would not use them ever. I have a small plastic box now.

Well what r some good butt connectors for everyday use ??

The fact that you could pull the joint apart when it was warm would indicate to me that the strength of the joint was in the glue: not the solder. Which seems to indicate that the solder joint is not that good?

I use a pencil torch and it does fine. And does not burn the plastic.

did ghost lights in car doors fine wire did a great job for me.

These are better than crimping butt connectors and also better than over soldered connections that end up being too hard, or just brittle under vibration conditions (like auto, aircraft or marine situations). Skipping to 2:47 and I have to remark that 4 mins with you heat gun? I have to ask : Is something wrong with your heat gun? n/m I see the other video.

It's not that these are a replacement for soldering. They're a replacement for crimp connectors. Even with the deficiencies you identify (although the comments disagree), the connection is as good as a crimp, and probably more weather resistant.

Great demo. As always, most FaceBook ads are for naive people that don't put some extra effort to learn it the right way.

I must have missed the link to the 'recommended' brand of solder connectors. Was it Ticonn? I'll continue my search in the mean time. Thanks!

Holy, Don Jr doing tool reviews.

I haven't tried them yet. but being a electronics tech, I wonder if you pre fluxed your wires if the solder would suck in..

Yeah i cant pull mine apart and way faster then soldering regularly all about how you do it and heat gun

Anderson power poles aren't easy to work with either but they work.

Thanks for reviewing the product.

I use these all the time. Use a mini torch and move the flame from side to side for 20-30 seconds and it’s done. Not sure what’s so confusing about these.

My heat gun doesn’t take nearly that long to heat these up. That’s weird. And yes you should let these cool a little before yanking on the wires. Which you shouldn’t be doing anyways. And I’ve installed many car stereos. I always wire up my harnesses outside of the car. On a work bench. That would certainly help no matter what method you use. And finally even if the solder doesn’t melt or penetrate perfectly, they’d still provide more solder coverage than mechanical connectors which don’t use solder at all.

Do these things tell you what wattage heat gun to use. (BTW, I've already heard that lighters or blowtorches are a big mistakes.)

Two things, get a better heat gun, I use the one recommended and it takes seconds, use the connector that will slip over the wire, pull it past the connection, then connect the wires by twisting them to make a physical connection, Pull the connector back over the connected wire so the center is over the bare twisted wire and heat it up. No only will the solder flow but you also have a physical connection within the wire. Works every time!

Use a linemans splice and an adjustable heat gun, I have awesome results

I’m using a heat gun and crank it up to 850 and it takes 10 seconds.

I used these today. I'm happy but not thrilled. I think if they had two to three times as much solder in them i would like them much more.

mine work great dunno whats going on with yorus.

I'm into radio control trucks cars boats and I have bought them to but they stall in my connector box and I bought a really good heat gun just for them but in my Application they don't work

I use these but I put soldering paste on the wire. This creates a much stronger joint.

I tried them, No good for me, or automotive application. They are more of a PITA than anything!! Your video is spot on.

You need to watch the other channels that demo this connector, they are doing it differently. They turn the connector over the heat gun. With great success.

Maybe, u have a bad batch or like many comments have said "possibly its your heat gun". I'm female with some very basic knowledge. I used the connectors to replace a damaged fuseholder on our John Deere Tractor. Bought on Amazon & worked perfectly!!

Went thru this bs yesterday, brought these off Amazon few months ago waiting to use it and sure enough didn’t work at all. Tossed the whole box in the garbage.

I like them mine work good, and it is true you get what you pay for buy a better box next time not the cheapest ones you can find.

We use thousands of them to wire trailers. Both red and blue ones. They shrink and melt in moments. 5 connectors in one go. I'm wondering if there is an issue with your heat gun? We did buy a cordless heat gun and that was useless. I agree with you on the large yellow ones with big wire. They don't work.

I tested them myself. The thick cables are a no no with these. The thick wires are pulling the heat away and it neets ages to solder. Than the connection is extremly weak. But the smaller wires are working a treat. I used them on two small cables on my Bikehorn. Or repaired the trailer light cable from my friend. And a lighter works on them too, but you have to move the flame constandly fast from left to right and get very close so the flame is sorrounding the joint to avoid black sud and insolation burn. If you are unsure if they work for your cable sise just test them before and see for yourself at witch thicknes they dont work anymore

I use a mini butane torch.

I have tried the same product from Solderstick and they idea is great... sadly the results is not good. I'm using a 1200W heat gun and it take a few seconds to melt so time is really not an issue if you have the correct heat gun. I get the solder to melt, I can see the solder speading over the copper strands, but this is still a cold joint. The copper doesn't get wet and the solder doesn't bond to the copper. In all cases, small wire or larfe wire, it's always the same thing, the mechanical bond is good because of friction and the glue they use but cut the shrink open and your wires are going to come appart, you'll even be able to removed the solder completely. For a quick fix... maybe... beats twisting wires together with electrical tape! But for a long time solution, no way, I'll stick to my solder iron!

U need turn temp up. I get them to melt thru. It helps to spin the wire to. I can't agree what u said on the yellow one

I have zero problems with them.

Thanks, Captain Obvious :) great vid, was curious about them - they seemed way too easy.

I think it comes down to techniques and brand of connectors. I've watched a number of videos of these and they melt the solder quickly. I'm sure there are cheap knock offs that are basically junk, and ones that work as advertised. And maybe just not a good product in general for larger wire (10-12 gauge), but great for smaller wire (14-16 and smaller)

Your experience was my experience. if they get hot enough to melt the sodder completely, it melts the insulation. worthless.

This heat gun isn’t even melting the heatshrink!! What temperature do you have it set at?

I just bought some with high ratings on Amazon. I will put your claims to the test and then come back with an updated comment.

Looks like the heat gun is a non adjustable one and pretty anemic, in your case i would use a little touch of soldering flux on the copper wires themselves and re-test ! Lead melt around 700-800 degrees if your heating it with a 400 degree gun it will take forever !

I'll take a nice western union splice over this any day.

I think I used 1000 for my Christmas lights show last year. very good, this is much faster than regular soldering. you're doing it all wrong. I do it with a paint stripper and that works perfectly.