Solder Those Headers - Collin’s Lab Notes  

Soldering on a breadboard can melt a breadboard holes, so be ready for that and use deficated bd for soldering

Holy crap! There are people who think you don't have to solder those connectors??? Wow. That reminds me of the infamous story of a guy who, in the 70s, before the Internet, wrote into an electronics magazine because he couldn't get one of their projects working. After much to & fro, they asked him to send in the gizmo. It turned out he'd done a beautiful job, but that instead of soldering in the parts, he'd GLUED them in!

I been practicing soldering headers to perfboard by plugging them into breadboards to keep them stable. I didn't think about also using the header pins to use a module on a breadboard.

If you’ve had some custom PCBs made, they’ll usually come in at least 5, more often 10, copies. Stack up the extras and use them to keep your headers aligned straight, resulting in a much more professional look to the finished product.

Don't use your protoboard while soldering. The heat can damage it -- unless you're very quick. Also, don't push any large wires into the holes such as large resistors, because they will flare out the contacts inside the protoboard. Once the contacts are flared, small wires will no longer connect reliably.

"You've been collecting...". I feel personally attacked 😂😆

Use a third hand clip to hold the header during soldering to avoid damaging your solderless breadboard. Also, those solder joints are cold, the solder should flow nicely onto the pad.

I like to solder one pin, then remelt the joint and move the header into position, then remove the iron. Do this on both ends if it's a long header, and don't put your finger on the pin you're soldering.

There are special headers that clip onto the holes. Also you can connect to the holes using pogo pins (on additional bottom board and you have to secure both with magnets/screws/etc

quick, clear, good

I find some breadboards have such tight holes pushing in headers pushes then out of the plastic they're in. I much prefer just lining them up right and securing with some blue tac before soldering.

WAIT A SECOND- YOURE THE GUYS FROM THAT PART, THANKS GUYS, YOU SAVED ME FROM REPROGRAMMING A DISPLAY

Nice video, even included a tutorial!

Use alligator clips to make it easier. It also will not cause any of those straight wires to disaligned. It's easier and much better than doing it on a breadboard.

Solder those headers in so they stick *up*. Get some M3 pot magnets, install them into the holes on the breakout boards (chose those that have mounting holes). Place the breakout on a sheel of steel (a good place is inside an electrical enclosure with a removeable backplane). Buy a spool of 30AWG wire wrapping wire and a wire wrapping tool, and hook everything up using the wire cut to just the right length - doesn't take much practise to get it right. This will be *perfectly* electrically connected, and won't go bad after a few years: It's a perfectly good way to wire equipment you'd like to last. If you want a more vibration-proof setup, use M3 rivet nuts. These let you mount things with a drill and a special riveting tool, without having to remove the backplane. This assembly will be strong enough to be mounted into a vehicle, and will be reliable so long as it can be protected from water. Most electrical enclosures are designed to be sealable, so this can be true. Wirewrapping is much better than breadboards, it's strong enough that you can prototype on a desk with everything loose, and it will be strong enough to stay connected even with picking it all up and letting it hang from the wires. Wirewrapping is far more reliable than those crimp-on connectors. Soldering is the slowest step - it's quicker and easier to wire-wrap than it is to put a crimp on. Buy a good combined cutting and stripping tool (the red 'ok tools' one), put the wire against the far side of the cutter section, and pin in down with the thumb of the hand holding the tool, then pull the wire across through the cutter and into the stripper section, then close the cutter and pull the wire: perfect length strip and you can do it very quickly with practise. For easily inserting the wire into the tool, hold the tool in one hand and the wire in the other, with thumb and index, then touch your middle fingers together to 'reference' your hands and make small accurate moves more easily with no shaking.

if you dont weld it it also messes up a lot of things, when a pin is not secured it generates a crazy amount of noise, making most sensor inaccurate at best

Is there press fit headers somewhere? Would be nice to be eble to prototype with press fit and later solder components directly to the circuit board

I needed to know this, so I wouldn't fail to buy an iron.🧠📈

I would never use pin headers without soldering them first. Never even crossed my mind. 🤨

*Very nice*

If you are designing breakout boards you should take a look at the great work done with the Pocket Chip. The header row over the display featured an offset between the holes which work absolutely perfect to give the pins a friction fit and thus a solid electrical connection without soldering. Most underrated PCB trick.

I don't understand why so many people are so scared of soldering. I've heard countless times some variant of "I've never soldered before, so I look for pre-soldered or solderless parts." Soldering is such an easy thing to get into I started doing it when I was like 14 and even at the time I think the worst that happened was accidentally burning off a small pad on a GameCube motherboard because I didn't use any flux (which was fixed by following the trace, scratching off some solder mask, and soldering to the trace).

Be aware that the wireless breadboards are not durable over the long term, are sensitive to the size of connector you plug in, and don't really have good grounding or noise immunity. Good for quick prototypes only.

me seeing headers in other colors for the first time :o

👍

Quick tip, if you get a solderless breadboard, dont get the cheapest

If you use a iron below 60W (which is too much) you will more likely dame the header than the board

Why not just make a pun that fits?

*This is a multi-purpose board for further progress*

This is absolutely clickbait first everyone solders pinheaders and no one solders headers while in the breadboard .. nice try

*I am Interested in Electronics, Knowledge of Spairs parts, working , Assembly work , With Diagram Base*