Soldering An HVAC Line Set Using Staybrite 8. STRONGER THAN BRAZING! 

Hey bro, just wanted to say thank you! My AC was been down for a month or so.. I called a company to diagnose the issue, and they ended up coming out and telling me it’s not worth the diag due to age (less the 9 year old system) they quoted $17k.. Studied your videos, and decided to tackle it my self.. I found a bad leak on the low side line under my house, at a 90 degree fitting. Used your videos to learn the recovery process, soldering with staybrite, charging, and checking pressures. AC going out used to be a huge stresser as a home owner, and I had doubts that could do it... but now that I have the tools and some knowledge.. it’s no big deal.. thanks from a now cold family in Florida❤️

In the HVAC field for 32 years I tried Staybrite on a few installations always tested with nitrogen and pulled a vacuum to below 500 microns had 2 installations leak after a few years never used it again. 15% silver and flow nitrogen

You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.

Thank you to all these newbies using this! 👍 Bc I Love that solder!!!! I Make ALOT of $$$ repairing them (w/ Harris 15% silver stick,) bc they ALWAYS Leak.

So, I've been a HVAC residential and commercial tech/installer/estimator for 35+ years, so hear me out. #1, always flow nitrogen through the line set while brazing. Now that being said, the low temp used here would probably not cause sever ash content inside the pipe. But it is critical that the line set stays completely clean, hence the flux used on the joint. I would think residue would find it's way into the pipe. #2- It's a good practice to evacuate the line set before you do a pressure test with the nitrogen, here's why. If the nitrogen is mixed with ambient air under pressure, the outdoor temp cane effect the pressure. Hotter it gets, pressure will raise in the line set. Evacuate first, watch the gauges for a few minutes to see if the pressure rises (possible leak under a vacuum), if all looks good, then add the nitrogen into the vacuum to the desired test pressure. Nitrogen is an inert gas, meaning it doesn't react to heat nearly as much as ambient air. This will give you a more accurate pressure test. Good luck

Been using Staybrite for 25 years and haven’t had an issue. I do sometimes hesitate using it on the hot gas side on some commercial equipment. Everywhere else 👍 especially Txv replacements,, perfect.

Put my Goodman unit in myself 3 years ago. Did everything but do the Brazing joints, including all the closet repair work and new Plenum Box, new Pad, and disconnect. Paid my neighborhood HVAC Tech to solder the joints and do a complete test and inspection of the entire system. He had a $1,000 Gage system had knew exactly how to use it. Charged me 2 hours for his time and expertise. He had the correct tools/parts which are difficult and expensive to buy locally. Tech made adjustments to my blower fan speed because the air was too cold coming out of my vents. Solder is NOT Brazing and this is not a copper water line. I can solder, braze and weld no problem. I have a roll of Staybrite 8 in my solder/brazing kit. I don't own a 3/4" copper tubing bender. Now my neighbor is my AC tech and does my annual check ups. My system runs great.

been using that solder for many years for all hvac and refrigeration and have never had a recall for failed joints. great video👍👍

I'm only 40, but learned the old school ways of brazing. I've tried HVAC Super Pro (no luck, too many blowouts, very particular about how you apply it), as well as Staybrite (doesn't like filling gaps - otherwise it can be handy) and crimping (expensive and I am not thrilled about o-rings). I'll probably braze until I die.

Studying for my EPA 608. Can’t wait for the video. Thanks for the videos you make. 💯🔥🤙

Safety tip have a spray bottle of water when soldering in an attic ,crawl space , or any confined area … Keep up the good work 👍

Hey man! I just finished running a new line for my AC. Thanks for the videos and your very easy to understand explanations. The builder of the home undersized our unit so I had to run new lines for our new unit. It wasn’t hard, other than boring a hole through my basement wall. Long story short, the basement is finished and we didn’t want to demo the ceiling etc. so I went thru a small channel visible from the mechanical room all the way to the opposite side of the house, a real doozy! 😅😅 We are also replacing the furnace because it’s undersized too, plus the units are 30+ years old, so it was time for an upgrade. The most important part of this DIY project is the amount of savings, even with the special tools, new AC and furnace, I am way below my lowest quote of $9,000 just for an AC install. It’s crazy! I am close to $6,000, and I am getting a set of some new cool tools for my shop in the process. Thanks man! And keep the videos coming, they are exactly what us DIYers need.

Great soldering and nice video. I’m also saying big thanks for the very clear and well spoken communication. Cheers.

You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.

I'm not a Tech but I used this Staybrite 8 7- years ago when I installed a Complete A/C system and NG furnace. Until today has no issue 😂👍👍,...... I'm still Learning

I was taught that as a general rule its best to open the suction king valve at the condenser first so that when you start up the system all of the oil that left out into the suction line will quickly return to the compressor.

Mapp gas with Staybrite 8 is where it's at. That said I'm a little hesitant to do so without the valves covered and the Schrader cores removed. I also feel better flowing some nitrogen but have no evidence that it is actually needed. I've also used a hand swaging tool instead of connectors so the tube I.D. and O.D. are tight.

Used this and its going. I installed it myself 2019! Still keeping cool and learn alot about HVAC

I ve been an hvac tech for 15 yrs, your teaching people the wrong way to do this. I guess people like you keep work coming my way!

I wouldn't personally wrap everything up as in the joints until pressure test is completed. Cause now you have to unwrap everything you just did god forbid there's a possible leak. Great educational video. Keep up the great work 👍

A huge thank you to you! Just switched out my hvac system - used staybrite 8 - worked great, saved thousands!

I love StayBrite, it’s so convenient especially in an attic, no need to lug the big torches up there and heat up an already scorching hot attic. Only thing is there always needs to be a snug fit, don’t try to fill in big gaps like brazing, use proper fittings.

Dude you keep blowing my mind with how well your videos are! super super helpful. I've been in the HVAC world for two years now and I wished I would have found your videos and tools list sooner. I do mainly new construction but also do finish work.

Awesome tools they make these days! What a change from when I played with this stuff ages ago.

Another awesome video dude! Thank you for sharing Ability Refrigerants. I Just ordered a bottle of R22 and you saved me a bunch of money. You wouldn’t believe what the supply houses in California are charging for a 30lbs bottle. Thank you again.

Excellent video. You did the job just like I do except I am still using a corded vacuum pump and I lightly flux the female fittings with a Q-tip. The Trublu hose is at least 4 times faster. I have been using Stay-Brite 8 on new installs and new copper joints for many years. NO flowing nitrogen, NO hauling an oxy-acetylene rig under a house, in an attic, or on a roof, and NO leaks. If you are really competent at brazing then you can become competent using Stay-Brite 8 in under 15 minutes.

One small piece of advice. On the core remover, always shutoff and remove the pusher to verify the core is gone before removing the tool. Last thing you want is to assume it went it and you got liquid spraying out on you. Love your setup and organization.

Standard charge is good for 15 feet of line set. You have way more than 15 feet of line. Additional refrigerant needs to be added at the rate of 0.6 oz per foot of line over 15 feet which I did not see addressed. I didn't see you check system pressures and adjust to subcooling which is what TXV's require. I can almost guarantee there is a low charge in the system causing the 22 delta at a vent which should be more in line with 18 or 19 at the vent. Delta should be taken at the coil, directly before the return air hits the coil and directly after the supply air exits the coil for best measurement. Too low a pressure at the coil can cause icing which hinders airflow. My own Goodman 3 ton calls for 11 degree subcooling and 21 degree delta which I get at the coil. I get 18 to 19 at the closest vent 3 feet from the coil. Hope this helps for future DIY'ers.

StayBrite...Perfect for dryers...I still cool the service valves while connecting, but use it there too...thanks for the video.

Thank Goodness for Goodman the BESTEST HVAC EQUIPMENT IN THE WORLD!!!!!

Soft solder for hvac, never realized. This is the only video I’ve found using it.

Going to be diy 2 mini splits in my motorcoach. Longtime plumbing soldered. Was dreading a ton of brazing because I have to custom build my hvac copper. The Staybrite 8 looks a little like a godsend to me, since I'll be working in the area of the diesel tank. Map Gas is so much easier than acetylene acetylene . Thanks for your instructional help

One of the best narratives I have seen. Great job man !! Thanks

Always open the suction valve first on a new condensing unit before opening the liquid line, the reason is the refrigerant in the condensing unit precharged by the manufacturer will be condensed in the compressor at the bottom of it typically, the compressor oil be separated from the refrigerant and sitting above it inside the compressor. Basically inside the compressor there will be a layer of refrigerant under the oil, and if you open the suction line first the refrigerant will change state and suck some of the oil out too into the suction line, and when you start the system for the first time will be sucked backed into the compressor. If you open the liquid line first the oil and refrigerant will go out into the liquid line and has to travel through all the piping and coil before it gets back to the compressor, and the compressor will more likely have less oil in it to lubricate it properly and could damage it. Always a good idea to remove service port shraeder ports, and protect the valves with a wet rag too. Staybrite would be illegal in my state of MA as it's not approved for R-410 systems due to higher pressures etc. From memory and someone else can look ip the specs (as I am to lazy too) brazing rod is good for something like 3000 psi, but after you heat it up and braze pipes something like only 1500 psi, Staybrite is something like 1200 psi max again from memory and I do like it and you don't get any oxidation inside the pipe unless you use way to much heat.

Make sure your reg is backed off and when you turn on that nitrogen bottle on make sure the reg screw is not pointing at you. If the regulator has failed on the inside it could shoot that screw out like a bullet.

I have had good results with Zero-Sil. It's a 15 % phosphorus copper alloy. Melting point is close to 1350 degrees f. And I always flow dry nitrogen or argon through the lines. Been using phosphorus bronze rods for over 35 years and never had an issue. The larger units I built had integral horsepower semi-hermetic Copelemetic compressor with VibSorb connectors at suction and discharge. I was designing and building dehumidifiers for low temperature lumber dry kilns. They worked well. Most used R290. 😊

Awesome video! Thanks so much for your hard work! Currently sitting upstairs and it’s ice cold!!

ive been using Staybright 8 for 15 years or so and no leaks.. last year I took a system out I had replaced in 2009 which had never needed any refrigerant.. it got whacked by lightning so I puled it out but staybright 8 will fill the gaps and flow nicely if you hit the pipe evenly.. always rosebud for me... when repairing coils and piping inside a minisplit staynbright8 is a godsend as I dont have to heat that thin pipe so hot.. the chinese piping can be thin.. staybright melts at low temp so you can get it hot enough without trashing the fins on a coil.. I tried HVAC super pro years ago but it melted under the heating cycle of a heatpump and leaked...

LMFAO to all the posters here that are full of crap. I have been using Harris Sta-brite for 43 years. The actual company rep came to our office and asked us to use it, showed us how it worked in 1981! I and our other techs have installed literally tens of thousands of systems residential/commercial/heavy industrial, and have NEVER had to go repair a leak on systems we installed. If you all are dead set on your 15% that is your choice, but don't act like you know anything about Sta-brite and try to give your B.S. "stories". We will keep putting money in our pockets with saved time, nitrogen, brazing gas, and burnt up copper on systems that will ALWAYS develop leaks. P.S. it is approved for use by EVERY manufacturer of refrigerant systems!

Your right about the staybrite 8 but most codes require brazed joints. Also wanted to comment on the sloppy line set in the attic, really didn't think about service ability running that line like that infront of the furnace and taking up a bunch of storage space for the customer running it along the attic floor. Not trying to knock you bro, just something to think about. Also really dig your vacuum set up.

Been using stay bright 8 since 1985 works good

Nice video!!!!!! When soldering the condenser I always wrap the king valves and remove the valve cores just for general principle. Staybright is an excellent solder, however it' strength is subject to temperature. I don't use it on heat pumps, but, straight cool units are fine. On heat pumps I use 45% silver solder and solder with a turbo torch with a 1/4 tip. I am a mechanical contractor in Florida where heat is a big factor and have been in the business for over 45 years. Only one suggestion! Wrap or remove any components with neoprene seals as it will save any problems in the future. I do a lot of work with and for Lennox and one of my biggest problems is leaking king valves that have to be replaced because of over heating! One other suggestion, before soldering, practice with a scrap of copper as this will help you avoid overheating components. BTW, I am also an instructor and ran a company with 80 employees with 20 service trucks and 3 install trucks. Again, nice video, maybe just a couple tweaks would make it a little better!!!!!!!

When you open the valve for the freon flow thru the line, be aware that the sensor vacuum reader gets wet with freon with that config, you should use another valve remover to close it before open the valve

Thank you for showing proper temperature compensated pressure decay test and vacuum setup and vacuum decay test.

Very good job on this video. One minor thing: Using the crow's foot as you did is not correct. The actuual torque you applied is slightly higher because the open end of the wrench should be turned 90 degrees from the way you used it. This will maintain the torque arm length and result in a more precise torque application.

So grateful to you pros sharing you knowledge and producing these videos. Mad respect for your skills bro

If going up past 30 ft its best to put in a p trap on the low side (suction line) or use a dual suction riser with a" p" trap to get proper oil return to the compressor. Use a tubing bender when you can to avoid the expense of fittings and need to solder things that don't need to be there and potential leaks. Swedge instead of use couplings to avoid same.

Great video. I've been using Staybrite #8 for years.

Awesome vacuum set up man! Also I noticed that you had the evaporator coil already installed by the time you checked to see if it was pressurized. I would recommend save yourself time and check to see if your coil has pressures prior to installation. Would hate to see an empty coil after it has been installed

video ,well done, I tried staybrite myself yesterday, absolutely would not stick to condenser tubing, followed your example exactly.

Great job! Comment: I would isolate your micron gauge with another Appion tool to avoid potential oil contamination when you release the charge. Question: I was bummed when you didn't show the sub-cool adjustment and how the new TXV worked. I installed a Goodman TXV on a new system and had to manually adjust the TXV. The TXV failed to operate correctly so it was removed and the piston reinstalled. Did you have to manually adjust the TXV or was it holding properly at the correct sub-cool?

Great video. I noticed only one item to advise others and that was the vacuum gauge was still attached when the lines were pressurized and could have damaged the gauge. I am a DIYer who loves to learn and I have not performed this work yet.

Man that stay bright 8 is something else. I need to try it out, oxy acetylene is starting to get expensive with it being almost 70 bucks every time I refill both tanks. That plus the nitrogen and I’m over hundred bucks. Not including the silfos rods if I need.

Homeowner should get a lineset cover instead of strapping it. Can even order from the big box stores. Makes it look like a rain gutter and protects the insulation from weather. Annoying that Goodman put the drier inside the compressor, had a great opportunity to install it near the TXV and keep it out of the weather. On another note, I spent 2 hours looking for my nitrogen and finally realized I had put a length of 8" round duct over the bottle to keep it from being bumped around - so always check your ducts haha Any mechanics out there with a socket style torque wrench, you can use a flare crowfoot socket - as long as you are checking torque with the socket at 90 degrees to left or right, the torque will be accurate. If measuring lineset length to check amount of refrigerant to add, easier to subtract total length of lineset subtract length of each piece you cut off - vs trying to measure the actual lineset length. 25:00 also there's a position on the service valve that shuts off the ports!

Out of curiosity regarding your soldered joints using STAYBRITE as opposed to brazing. I am assuming brazing has been the chosen method due to the HIGH pressures in the HVAC system. That said, my question to you is: Since your FIRST solder job vs. braze, how long has it been and how is it holding up?

Nice informative video of a very neat and clean installation. I am surprised though you didn't add any more refrigerant though. Goodman units come precharged for about 15feet of line set and from the video someone can see that just the rise (2 floors) is 16 feet. Therefore I expected to see you add more R410. In this Goodman set up with TXV the Subcooling should be 8 +-1 degree if the system is properly charged. Not sure if you missed those from the video due to time. Again this video should be an example of how to do a proper installation for several technicians out on the field. Thanks for sharing.

The copper will bust before the stay bright , great job .

I love your RU-vid and thank you sharing your Soldering An HVAC Linest Using Staybrite 8.

Im sure you checked but please discuss subcooling readings to verify charge is adequate. Good job oninstallation sequence.

@thediyhvacguy you are clear spoken, seem professional, and have a very good tool setup. not sold on the staybrite. I've been in the trade 30+ yrs and feel more confident brazing with nitrogen then soldering. will admit there has been times ive used staybrite when replacing a few txvs over the years but try to braze everything if possible. not a big fan of the CPS micron gauge you're using. seeing you already know about the trublu products, id highly recommend you check out their micron gauges. lastly and more importantly IMO, is your checking the charge method...yes, its important to check your delta T but thats nowhere close to how the charge should be checked on a Hvac system. very disappointed that you even have the tools to do it correctly (fieldpiece gauges with temp clamps) but didn't use them. getting your superheat and subcooling readings are REQUIRED to confirm not only the charge is correct, but that all components of the system are working properly. having a 20 plus degree delta T on your air temps are nice to see but not always going to be seen, especially in a home that has a very humidity level. you could easily only have 15-16 degree delta T today, then let the system run 24hrs and then recheck the delta T and now have 20+ degree delta T. the big problem here is that if you dump more refrigerant in the system to try and get that 20 degree delta T it likely won't happen if the txv is working properly and now you have an overcharged system. bottom line is the manufacturer of every system will advise you of its proper subcooling when using a txv. and if your not using a txv, then you'll need to know the outdoor drybulb temp and indoor wetbulb temp to change the system by superheat.

Brazing copper causes it to become annealed, which results in a reduction in the strength of the pipe. The pressure of the refrigerant causes pin holes and splits in annealed copper pipe.

Many people did this and man I resoilder so many joints + add Freon yeah man extra $$$

I didn't see any fire extinguisher around. Specially in the attic. Justa a reminder, safety first, ALWAYS.

Nice job, instead of using a coupling in the attic on the 3/8 line I would have used the filter/dryer. I did see it get installed at any location.

I have used stay bright 8 for many years, so long can't remember back that far. ON issues.

Looks so much better also. Less heat involved

The technician in me wants to see a pressure test between the two 😎

You didn't flow nitrogen through the lineset when you were soldering it. That causes the copper on the inside (where you can't see it) to oxidize (since there's oxygen there and not nitrogen) leaving contaminants in the system. If I got this wrong, please reply and let me know why it's OK to do it the way you did. I was trained that you should always flow nitrogen while brazing or soldering refrigerant lines.

Recently was trained on Bosch equipment and I was surprised that they actually recommend soldering with StayBrite 8 over brazing

Beautiful!!! Install, I couldn’t choose a different word. My bad😊

Very clean and neat job I've never soldered my line sets but I now I would who would have thunk it but curious why not hang that line sets to rafters instead of the floor you do a very good job impressed

Next time wait to pressure test before letting the insulation cover the joint. I rather get either 50, 75 or 100 foot line-set no joints to possible leak. Remove the schrader valve when soldiering. Great setup. Who much did you charge

One of my favorite videos you've done!!! Great job, brother! God bless!

Why txp over piston? In cars we call them orfice tube. Ford and GM.

Very instructive video, thank you and thanks for the Staybrite 8 kit & tool tips.

The BEST AC LINE SET Video Online. I used the Stay Brite for my Ductless Mini Split install over 4 years ago and I had some extra long lines to couple together... and working Good! I did hand swaged the lines, and cut off the flare fitting where I coupled them together. I did have a couple of slightly loose joints, but I did use a Flux "Soaked" rag go into the Female end, but careful Not to Leave a build-up of Flux, It was easier to hold the solder in that way. And It sealed up very Nice even though it was a loose joint before. I did see a AC Tech use the Stay Brite on a Commercial Unit on the Coil, where it had about a 1/4" hole, and he used the Stay Brite to solder it together... and it held. Stay Brite is great stuff. Yea, I want to get my certificate.

Appreciate your attention to detail . Great tutorial Thanx!

I think i would still wrap the valves and definitely take out the cores every time. Especially if your creating a video to show " how to " . Keep in mind there are newbie trying to soldier their first lineset and they may make mistakes. Like over heating. Also just so your aware when you braze the actual braze joint is stronger then the copper lineset itself.

Liebert Factory Certified Technician till 2024, Liebert used Staybrite 8 on their Dryers, Sight Glass and Solenoid Valve. That was what we had to use replacement. The place I wouldn’t use it is at the Compressor, due to the Vibration.

The WORST that can happen with Staybrite8 is a leaking joint. The worst that can happen with braze is contamination from oxidation because you, or the "Professional" you hired to do the job didn't want to spend the time to use nitrogen, and I suspect a lot of these professionals do not. Contamination might not destroy the compressor for a few years, but it will. The old adage, "If you want to be sure something is done right, do it yourself" has never held more meaning. If you know someone personally who you can trust, hold onto that guy for the rest of your life, because they don't make them any more.

Here's an idea that furnace set up will be best if you had a pan and overflow safety switch !!

Great video. I would hire this guy in a microsecond!

Great video!! Thank you

You soldered that pipe really amazing

I don't know maybe I'm wrong I'm just a licensed contractor. If I'm not mistaken all the manuals require at least 5% silver brazing rod. Soft solder has to be used with flux. Flux is acid acid gets into the system.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing. Keep em coming. I’m in the process of planning my system.

So what is the tool called that you used to remove / install the Schrader Valve without loosing refrigerant? This video Sir, WAS SIMPLY AMAZING, NOT TO MENTION VERY WELL STEP BY STEP EXPLANATIONS ! Solely based upon the MATTER OF MY OPINION, WHICH I CERTAINLY WOULD SAY OTHER VIEWERS WOULD AGREE WITH ME WHEN I SAY, " THIS DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO SHOULD WIN " BEST DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO OF THE YEAR / DECADE", HANDS DOWN ! Thank You Sir, for not only taking the time to make this video but also explaining the process, tools being used & the components thats involved when being worked on / & or installed. AGAIN - SIMPLY MARVELOUS- VERY WELL REHEARSED/ PLANNED /EXPLAINED/ CLEAR RECORDING WITH VERY CLEAR CRISP NARRATING VOICE THAT COULD BE UNDERSTOOD WITH LITTLW TO NO EFFORTS !!

I have used stay brite for 7+ years. I always use it over brazing. I always pressure test with nitrogen after soldering I pressure test over 500 psi then evacuate nitrogen and pull a vacuum to 200-300 microns. Never had a leak issue and never had a failure of a solder joint. Those that say brazing is the only way are either not educated on new practices and materials available or are just stuck in their ways and trying to verbally attack others to make themselves and their practices seem like they are still relevant. Not the case not only do I guarantee my solder joints are as good as your brazed joints but I absolutely guarantee they will look so much more appealing to the eye and not make the copper look burnt and mangled.

No one should be using plumbing Flux to solder refrigerant lines. Contamination is 100 percent guaranteed. While adding flame type heat to refrigerant lines, always purge the line with nitrogen of any oxygen and hold steady a 3-6 psi flow of nitrogen until finished brazing using 15 percent silver brazing rods. The higher silver content will allow for faster brazing and ease of flow. A triple evacuation is recommended. Pull a vacuum below 500 microns and break with nitrogen just over atmospheric pressure. Continue this process three times and pull down below 500 microns or manufacturer specified amount with a 1 hour hold test normally pull to around 150-250 microns for final hold. This ensures proper drying of oxygen and atmospheric moisture inside the lines. If using a Schrader valve removal tool such as the appion shown in this video. You want to attach a T fitting above the shut-off valve. Place both the vacuum line and nitrogen line at the point. This way, you keep the valve stem and removal tool inside with the shut-off valve in the open position while pulling a vacuum. So, when you press the valve stem in, you are doing so under vacuum. Most people miss the fact that there is a small amount of oxygen that goes into the system if not done this way due to the removal of a line from the front of the valve core removal tool. We have the equipment to flawlessly execute a perfect procedure. Just take a few extra steps. You definitely invest in the tools and have an understanding. Did not mean to rant, but we should all strive and teach better methods. Look forward to seeing more content, buddy. 🤙

The problem with staybrite 8 when using it on a 410a system. It’s not the strength of the solder, but it’s melting point, given that it’s around 430F degrees. Truth no system will get around that temperature, but on the high side, it’s recommended by the manufacturer that it not be used on the discharge side of a compressor. I have a problem with soft solder, due to heat and vibration that can weaken the bond given the lower melting point. Even at half it’s melting point, it can lose over 50% of its strength and higher pressure systems create higher temperatures, especially as they get older. One other note is ambient temperature, especially in the southwest were in the summer they been averaging over 100 degrees, couple that with a 200 degree plus line temp, and you are almost at melting point of the solder at 380 psi of pressure. I have personally seen soft solder blow outs on line sets in lesser conditions. FYI.

You might want to clarify that although EPA 608 is required to purchase refrigerant, it is not the same as a HVAC contractors license which is required in most states to work on equipment other than your own.

I love staybrite 8. I suck at brazing. Plus, it anneals the copper and can damage it too easily.

On one hand, brazing is faster for joints where it is difficult to clean pipes. Soldering is good, no nitrogen & reduced heat damage risk to valves, hw. Brazing Temp anneals copper pipes so they are weakened. But it is hard to mess up a sil-phos joint if one knows how to do it 👍.

This is like my first day at work

After watching a video where the people test brazing how the high heat weaking the copper, i end up using staybite. No problem so far for 3 years so far.

Man im glad you use copper coupling

Nice hack job with that solder.

A couple questions. 1: why aren't you sweeping the lines with nitrogen 2: why aren't you pulling the Schrader valves so you don't damage the rubber seal? Thanks

I've soft soldered line before and the Flux was a liquid. Put a few drop on a clean cloth and wipe the fitting.always worried about Flux paste melting into the pipe. Flux is acidic, breaking down oil. Always flow N² and remove cores and wrap those valves. Use aluminum foil to guard painted surfaces from torch. I sweep out N² with freon, then hook up vacuum and go to lunch. You know the rest.

The TXV will sweat. If its not over the pan, it will eventually make it to and damage the ceiling. You need to insulate the bottom and the outlet of valve to prevent it.