I am a licensed plumber and gas fitter. I have installed my own heat pump and air conditioning equipment. Having the experience of being in construction and quite a bit of plumbing tools the job was fairly straightforward for me. I still ended spending close to $1000 on specific tools for ac. Also many hours of studying with the hvac books that I purchased. Anybody who has not done work with there hands and virtually no tools will be challenged to put in their own AC system. However, if you’re determined and willing to buy the tools, and do a lot of reading and homework it is possible. I don’t think there are very many people that will be able to pull it off without some sort of experience like changing the oil on your car, building a deck, soldering some copper water pipe, fixing a lawn mower etc. There are many unique challenges for every installation that requires experience to solve. I’m not saying it’s impossible but you need to be realistic about your abilities.
💯 FACTS you definitely need to be mechanically inclined, and have construction experience to pull this off.. I’ll say this again don’t go with that dinosaur technology upgrade to ductless mini splits their 30% more efficient. That’s just in the electricity usage. I’ll say in the cooling department is probably more like 50% more efficient. Running miles of ductwork, especially in the attic in those hot summer months expecting to cool down the home is just throwing money out the window. It’s over 140° in an attic that’s poor engineering in my book. Get the highest seer rating you can with a quality mini split Ductless system. A lot of those come charged making it easier for a DIY. Duct systems always have leaks and are highly inefficient. You are losing a ton of the cooling air, especially if you have a two-story home with an attic.
Ya his channel says diy but there is no diy involved. He is in business to get paid by customers to do work. I’m a former hvac tech and certified to work on everything. No one should do their own work. The only systems that are diy are the cheap amazon mini spits
@@AmericaTheGreat-1776 I used the Stay-Bright 8. My split ac with 410 A has been in service for 4 years without a problem. When I first used it I did a lot of checking. For these residential systems I was comfortable using the product. I could have brazed but the reviews from most people were positive. As with all soldering everything has to be perfectly clean and use the correct paste. Always follow manufacturers instructions. The Stay Brite performs like lead free solder that would be used in a domestic copper water pipe system. Harris sells a specific paste called Stay- Clean. It is a little creamier than your regular paste and the colour resembles clear silicone. Very different from standard paste that I have used for plumbing.
Got quoted 6k for a new condenser, coil install at my house which is already ducted with a high efficiency forced hot air furnace. Went to local supply house got all the materials for 1900 out the door. Installed everything myself over the course of a week (I took my time) and paid a hvac tech to braze the lines and charge system about $600. Fanciest tools I used were tin snips and a hole saw. You can 100% do this as a DIY as long as you do your research and plan accordingly and know when to call the professionals to help if needed.
even brazing could be done at home if you practice some. i started experimenting out 12 years ago on a free window ac. replaced the condenser on it as it was falling apart then ended up locking the compressor , replaced the compressor and used it for few years that 18k btu whorlpool cooled a room that typically required 24k btu. it had so much cooling power not sure if i did something wrong with it or accidentally installed a bigger compressor. i still have it stored away for someday if i need to cool my room again if the main ac fails lol.
They don’t help unless they get a new install job….ive heard every excuse in the book but it always narrows down to the money.,,,they don’t care if it’s going to bankrupt the homeowner….they want ur money and that’s it….theyd spit in ur face if u were homeless and staving….cuz of this socialism American culture we have now….
I am not trying to be a know it all but I would recommend heating the rear side of the fittings and adding solder to the other side. This ensures better solder distribution. Never put the solder in the flame as this will make a cold joint. As well, only add enough solder needed. I like to use the rule of using the same length of solder as the size of pipe. For example, 3/4" pipe needs 3/4" length of solder... of course that is assuming you are using the standard StayBright solder. Bend the solder in advance to know when to stop.
A polite tip that will help you one day, start your solder on the opposite side of the tubing from the torch. That way the tubing has reached proper temp throughout the joint and two quick swipes around entire perimeter and a wipe = done with full penetration. You guys do nice clean work. Enjoyed the video!
I really appreciate the video. You have been very helpful. Regarding the professional vs DIY, sometimes there isn’t much difference and in some cases the DIY does a BETTER job because they are the end user. I can’t tell you how many “professionals” do a downright poor job. All it takes is the ability to follow directions and of course the right tools.
Dave Always a pleasure to watch you! I got my EPA certification , thank you again. Just wanted to let you know that your videos and knowledge has help me a great deal. And I don’t care that I’m taking food off the table of the HVAC companies in my area, STOP ripping the customers off! $425.00 for a capacitor change out, ridiculous.
Its great that you were able to quit the 9-5 and do these videos to educate others and avoid being ripped off. The service tech's job is 1/2 tech and 1/2 salesman. You're required to upsell useless crap to seniors. Either talk them into a $12,000 new furnace & A/C , or convince them of useless gimmicks like electro static filters, UVlamps or premium warranty that doesnt cover the $179 service call to replace a $20 flame sensor. You and Steve with his little dog Molly represent the honest exceptions in this business.
@@diyhvacguyJust had two 2.5 ton heat pumps installed with duct repairs etc…the first guy I called quoted 31K. While the second fellow was here, the first guy called me pushing for an answer. I was in the attic with the second guy. He said a lot of guys add extra stuff you don’t need for extra commission, I don’t get a commission. He quoted 16K and they did the work very well. I’m a retiree and live in a nice area, so maybe they just give asinine quotes until they hit a winner? Told everybody about that company and their scam. Asswipes.
KUDOS and spot on to the senior comment! Ex electrician, live in Las Vegas. If the casinos do not get you, the service techs will if they smell ignorance [in general]. The builder approved AC company wanted $15-20,000 for complete system install, 18 years old, taking out attic heating unit too. Found honest AC by rec [NOTHING BETTER] and said attic unit in top shape, replaced AC $5100. Seniors have been around for a while and I always wonder why they believe we did not gain life experience and stayed ignorant throughout life.
Never would I have ever thought about the ladder + winch idea in my life, and I've been recently thinking about those type of ways for when I plan to add solar to my house DIY. I appreciate the idea Gentlemen!
Nice to see you presser test before vacuuming it down. You should always do that every time. That will always tell you if you have a leak especially if you use a digital manifold 👍
Well yes and no. Nitrogen is great to use because it is a dry gas and also has a good effect of clearing out lines after you work on them. Then vacuuming. But in most cases you can test for leaks with just vacuum and be ok.
@@mss3834 you don’t need to pressurize it if you did not make a million braze joints. I was in the industry and in most cases pulling a vacuum and waiting 15 minutes to see if it holds is fine
Appreciate the vid bud. Prob going to replace my furnace this year. Prob will do your one month subscription or whatever for remote help. Thanks again.
That Staybrite is very interesting. People either love or hate it. Seems no in between. Some guys never had a leak with it and the guys who have leaks swear they prepared everything exactly according to spec and had leaks. Mostly at the condenser on the high side. If you have good luck with it seems like a no brainer especially not to have to flow nitrogen.
The funny thing is he has a nitrogen tank to pressure test but uses stay bright solder. Maybe he trusts that over brazing if it keeps less contaminants from getting in?
@@JoeyRiz i actually trust brazing myself. I use a crimping tool to get a tighter fit nitrogen isn’t that big of deal for extra cost and probably saves problems later. Another thing we never did was pressure test systems years ago when using r22. Only relying on vacuum test which eventually you would end up with leaks at times more than I liked.
@@timvala7577 I’ve personally never had a braze joint leak on anything I’ve put together. That’s another reason brazing is better, you can visually see that the joint is sealed way better. The crimping tool is also way better than soldering though the cost is very high.
@@JoeyRiz Oh! I meant swaging tool. Sorry. Eventually I got better at brazing. I can’t say I never had a leak. Mostly had to do someone else’s work over as they didn’t take the time to check vacuum and did them too quick. I was thinking about crimping. I see they use rubber o rings and had some comment they don’t last and leak. Why don’t they use Teflon rings I wonder? Also those tools are WAY too expensive!
Long ago I attended HVAC training at a tech school in Phoenix. We were taught to use silver solder to make up tubing joints. My question is this, is the solder you used acceptable across the industry for this work? I'm not criticizing, I just want to be sure that the material you used is up to the task. That would be great as it does not require oxy/acetylene heat levels or equipment DIY folk generally don't have. Thank you for this well done video.
I hate to think how much I overpaid. My system went out on a Friday and I had to get it replaced over the weekend. I'm in AZ. It got to over 100 degrees in my house. Only one company gave me a quote on Saturday. I paid $13,000 for a 5-ton split system (Rheem). I also got a new 50-gallon water heater (Ruud) at the same time $1650.
Looks like a great idea. The area of the country I live in (Metro Detroit) it is very difficult to find a place that will sell you a central AC unit and even harder to find a furnace for a do it your selfer to install. What is happening here the big nation wide installer companies are pushing the mom and pop repair shops out of business. If you call them with a problem with your AC or Furnace they send a salesman to you house instead of a technician and convince you everything needs to be replaced with a new unit and you are throwing your money away trying to get it repaired. They are very high pressure. The sad part is you can probably get the unit repaired for under $300.00 vs spending $10,000 on a new unit. So beware if a salesman comes to your house and not a qualified technician. These companies may not even employ any technicians. They just employ installers and sales reps. The same goes for the roofing companies in our area. No more roof repairs, just replace the hole thing for $25,000 and they are done.
I always used silver soder sticks and silver soder flux and a turbo torch with Mapp gas and never had any problems, this reminds me of the torch less putty that took the place of soder that they where saying was the new best way to do it and I had to go to one of our other properties because the techs had put it on some units and the lines blew loose, they didn't know how to sweat copper at all.
What's wrong with the old unit, it looks to be in good shape from the appearance. I think units are replaced that don't need to be for some contractors to maximize their profits at the expense of the lay person who knows nothing about hvac. Not accusing your company of such behavior, but I can imagine the temptation to cut corners or take advantage somehow happens.
I came back from overseas trip last week. Your video pop up. It just happen where I was staying an Airbnb, AC bite the dust. Next day AC guys came in while taking said this unit is 25 years old, it was old house. They installed 3 Ton HVAC. Outside unit was Inverter Condenser unit pulling 300 watts slow start. New Technology where out side unit compressor and fan us 24volt DC. There is an Inverter installed which converts AC to DC. Bigger units are 48 volts DC. I believe these units can run on Solar energy. Have you heard these units are available in US.
I appreciate your video. Quite concise and to the point. As a suggestion, please note that you are standing on a "single-ply" roof membrane (looks like a TPO). The hot solder that is dripping onto the roof membrane is what I typically see as some of the causes of roof-related leaks in and around mechanical units. I would suggest you place a fire blanket under your point of soldering so as to prevent any damage to the home owner's roof membrane; as well as possibly prevent a future roof leak. Thank you.
Thanks for the input. What you see is from BRAZING, this will not melt membrane, but a drop of brazing rod will absolutely, I’ve seen it melt into the condenser pad many times. But this is the advantage of soft soldering. Cheers
Love the ladder/wench, seen contractors rent cranes for that. So much faster, cheaper, and easier to use the ladder/wench. Always so confused why they deal with the cost and logistics of a crane. Only have to buy the ladder/wench once, but have to pay that crane every time.
We paid up for a furnace last October. I just found the exhaust pipe dumping directly into our basement. The joint was primed but not glued🤦🏻♂️. I decided to replace the AC myself. Currently it’s in process. The tools are expensive, and there’s a lot of them. For a one off, the tools could be flipped on EBay to recoup costs.
@@diyhvacguy about $1200 for parts and tools sound right? Might have my dad help me since he's the mechanic. You should do a video on code compliance next.
@@keithshaw2515 The "steal" is what the HVAC companies are doing to homeowners by charging $20k for $1,200 in parts. $18, 800 is excessive for a day worth of labor.
When the condensing unit is above the coil you must add a p trap to the suction line or the oil will have a hard time if not at all to get back to the compressor..or you will be replacing compressor every 2 years.
Could you please to a video of a horizontal furnace unit in an attic? That’s how mine is, and they are both (there are two- 4 T and 2.5T) hung from the inside of the roof, rather than laying on floor in the attic.
I second that request!. Vegas home with systems on suspending metal straps. From my preliminary inspection, it appears it’s just an upward flow system laying on its side with a multi position evaporator coil. Getting the furnace up there (especially the one for the 4 ton system) is going to require some finesse. I will be keeping an eye out for that video.
@@5dc61 I replaced my air handler in the attic. To replace I made the attic hatch in the walk-in closet twice as big. It was the width of the trusses and 5 feet long. I cut the old air handler apart with a sawzall. The new handler I stripped down to the case to lighten it which made it much easier to get in. Then reassembled the blower and coil in position. It was easier but still a pain to work in the tight area.
I always heard you had to braze refrigerant lines, not just solder them? I am also surprised you used a flex vent for the exhaust instead of a smooth pipe with 2 90s. Great video!
He said the staybright with a tight coupler works. He said he has never had any problems. Though I would probably braze my own just for the fact that I have an acetylene torch at home and I am paranoid
I noticed you didn’t flush the lines I always do but your videos are good. I am a lead installer and I do this for a living for a company in Denver. A full system install here cost roughly 15,000-18,000 I get 0.4% of that each install
The B vent has a section that is no properly sloped, at least it appears that way in the video.. Should be minimum 1/4 inch per foot uphill slope. It doesn't seem like a big deal but over the span of time it can cause venting problems. At 21:41 you can see the corrugated vent slopes back down before it connects to the smooth wall vent. There is plenty of room for a quick adjustment. Ideally it should be clear to the naked eye that it has the proper slope.
My air conditioner unit outside is working but no air is coming through the vents. I changed the capacitor on the blower fan of my furnace inside, and the air conditioner worked for about 15 minutes. I then exchanged it and put in another new capacitor. It worked for about 2 hours then the fan stopped again. I will appreciate any trouble shooting recommendations!
Can we get a video of someone trying install hvac system after watching your videos and see how far they get? And how many different problems they run into😅
DIY is not an exact science. It is the first time you have done it and almost everything takes longer than in a RU-vid video. Something ALWAYS goes wrong. The real problem is that if you live in a municipality that does NOT allow homeowners to perform their own work on their own home unless it something simple like painting or adding solar security lights. The other drawback to homeowner DIY is that rarely will a manufacturer provide warranty assistance on any HVAC equipment NOT installed by a licensed, bonded and insured professional. Thank goodness for the videos provided by channels such as this.
I have several videos finishing up a mostly complete diy job and they have all been great successes and they saved THOUSANDS. But haters will always hate
My house is 21 years old with the original AC and furnace. With the exception of replacing condenser capacitor last summer, I have not had any issues with it. I know I'm on borrowed time. When it needs to be replaced, do they normally do the furnace too or just the outside condenser? I would like to take HVAC classes in the fall if my AC survives all summer.
Typically it’s cheaper to do both being as the ductwork has to be disassembled to get the new coil in anyways. If you are interested in learning more about hvac, we actually have and hvac course that can be found here: ru-vid.com/show-UC2w60mhlxFmAhoi2oSDcEngjoin We release new members only videos frequently so you can continue expanding your knowledge 👍🏼 cheers
Staybrite 8 is waaay way easier then brazing, no nitrogen flow needed, and don’t have to wrap the valves because it only get up to like 400 degrees as opposed 1200 for brazing
Great video showing all the important steps with a lot of good tips. Do you have access to the newer units that don't use 410A? Will you need to buy a new set of gauges, or you can reuse the old gauge on different refrigeration gas without any risks of contamination?
I got pleasantly shocked your assiduous,endeavours and sound technicals knowledge 👏.I kiss you with all my heart and happy life with this essential tool always on hand 👏🙏🇮🇳.
Looks like you do great work. The only thing I would change is I would braze my joints. And not trying to convince people that they can do this themselves .
I just got a quote to add a heat pump - but they said I’d need to rip out my old system, which is less than ten years old and replace it with a different system - the brand they use, of course. But on my current air handler, there is a place for the aux heat strips to be installed, which tells me that system can likely accommodate a heat pump… ? They want 10k to do that. We run a wood stove pretty much all winter and honestly just wanted something to kick on for a couple hours in the morning so I don’t have to get up at 3am to throw a log in. We have oil baseboard that we haven’t used in years… So frustrating being ignorant in some areas…
One correction:open suction valve first when let the refrigerant in the system ,then open the liquid valve,to avoid oil into txv causing any flow problem.
Love your videos, keep them coming sir. What type of refrigerant was the old unit? Can you do a video how to flush out R22 if we decided to reused the line sets? And please take an extra minute to show us how to expand the 3/4 pipe to solder without the coupling. Thank you.
I purchased a New Goodman 1.5 ton. In mounting the Condensing Unit, I noticed there was a "Dryer" Installed within the Body of the Condensing Unit. Question, is there a Need to Install a 2nd Dryer? Did the Unit You Installed on Roof Top have a Dryer Installed Inside the Cabinetry of Condensing Unit? Also, is it An Absolute Requirement to Check for Leaks? There is another HVAC RU-vidr who Does Not Always Check for Leaks, He uses all methods of attaching copper line sets. He is Extremely Confident in his Work and has Not had a Problem with leaks.
If I DIY my own system, how do I get the manufacture to stand behind the equipment warranty since I'm not a licensed HVAC contractor? Or, am I suppose to be happy with the money I saved and say to hell with the warranty since I'm still way ahead finacially speaking when components start to fail?
Pet peeve of the install side of the industry I have is that they're always putting the filter drier at the condenser. You should really have the drier as close to the metering device as possible, so it should be right at the evaporator. Also no way would I expect any plain MAP gas solder to hold under high pressure, vibration, and constant expansion and contraction on the high side. Just braze it and be safe.
Hey, if you need a location and project for your next video, I am considering DIY installing a new condenser, evap coils and line sets in my garage. Just sayin'
@@CC-hv5hk is it? it will last 10 years plus like all the other. sure its budget friendly but thats the same compressor in all the big name units. What brand did you put in for 1900? because anything 1900 sound like a pile of shit.
That torch is way too big. You demonstrate a lot of skill being able to solder those joints with that torch. A regular propane pencil tip or soft flame acetylene and air (prest o lite) would do it. Great video! I have been a Commercial HVAC technician 25 years. Your tools are the bomb!
Man, I just got a new system installed last year. 16k. Now I'm kicking myself, I could have done this myself! I've definitely got the skillset, but it would have taken me quite a bit longer than a day to do it by myself. Tricky part would have been dragging the old evap out of the attic and bringing the new one in. I guess the modules are THAT heavy. And my condenser is on the ground on the side of the house. I even have the EPA certification (NAVY training SIR) if I have to get more refrigerant. One question I have though: Do you have to remove the Schrader valve stem from the gas side?
Do you not flush existing line sets with R11 solvent? If not you'll be going back after about 3 years to replace the compressor. Do not rely on the filter dryer to catch the coagulated oil from the two different freons.
Awesome videos..was about to hire someone to replace my evaporator coils, but saw couple of your videos and now I will do it myself....quick question though. When are your supposed to you a thermal expansion valve vs. when are you not supposed to use it? AND Is there a scenario where you would want to use oxyacetylene ? I would rather use the butane, flux etc..(easier IMO). Thanks!
I bet if someone traced the roots of the practice of putting the condensers on the roof in your area it would go back to the days of swamp coolers. Elevation doesnt matter for modern ac, but with a swamp cooler there would have been better performance by letting the more dense cooled air fall naturally. Or maybe that had nothing at all to do with it! 😂😂🙃🙃
I realize this saves space. My son's compressor is in his attic. This one on the roof. Maintenance in the attic?? Fuses? Mine is over 25 years old and it has a breaker in the box.
How bout a oil trap, condenser above the evaporator. Or risk it. You can buy a trap or make your own .it's better safe than sorry, I use silver solder ,and flow nitrogen while brazing, just a few tips.
FYI Rudd used to be Rudd Richmond. And now also Rheem and I think weather King. Rheem seems to be the top end name. At least I know they charge more. Oh and you have to be certified to buy their product,that's right.
My question is this, is the solder you used acceptable across the industry for this work? We were taught to use silver solder to make up tubing joints. I'm very sorry, but it would be possible to explain this for beginners. Thank you
I recommend you watch his previous videos. He’s probably tired of answering the same questions over and over and over and over and over and over and over again.
Yeah,but I want to know about this install not previous ones. by the way I have watched every video he's made ,so I don't want your comment, just he's.
Great video! Would you recommend trying a rooftop gas pack on a sloped roof? Seems like it would weigh quite a bit more and getting it up the slope, even though it's only about 10 feet, seems problematic.
Next time you use a forklift at that lower height it's easier and safe so you won't drop the a/c unit makes it easier with your workers. In higher building you use a hydraulic equipment and it's much easier be safe in higher elevations take care A/C Contractor
So I ordered air filters from your recommended source, 20”x25”x4”, and when I get them they are about 1/2” smaller in every dimension! What’s up with that? That’s going to fit loose and let dirty air bypass around the filter!
I want to replace my unit that has a burned out compressor. How do you contain all the refrigerant into the outside unit if the compressor is not working?
Dude…. Don’t recommend soldering for refrigerant lines. It does not hold nearly as well and introducing flux into the system is a contaminant. You can braze with map gas just fine.
@@diyhvacguy a guy who has never done it is telling me a guy who has done it… yes you can you just need to heat it longer. Obviously acetylene the best way to go but you can do it with map gas. I was a AC installer tech for nearly 10 years. Also why are you not using braze and acetylene in the first place as an installer?
@@bluejay713 I don’t need to watch all of his videos to not recommend using solder like he is in this video. I’m not saying he has never brazed, I’m saying he has never done it with map gas
Dave thank you so much, I have a question. The outside coil has been replace 3 times on a 4 year old unit (Trane 4ton 16seer) the inside coil has also been replace once. The AC tech added a purple dye and it seems to be in the same places all the times. They do warranty the coil, but this keep happening every year like clock work. Do you know of anything I can do to avoid this issue?
I've watched a bunch of HVAC videos over the years. I feel like I understand certain things, but I'm missing the "big picture." Is there a book or video that explains the big picture of residential HVAC?
Great video. You guys are definitely Pros! I live in Southern California. I saw your video about buying your own equipment and you suggesting hiring a contractor to install it. How much do you think that install would be. Do I need to have any other parts other than a condensing unit, coil, and furnace? What parts do you think an installer would have to provide over and above the installation labor? I know that’s kind of a broad question but hopefully you can give me an answer. Thank you. Great education.
Didn’t know condenser units came pre-charged. Is that a lower cost way to go from factory? Because hvac companies are charging hella by the pound for refrigerant.
Hello sir you got the talent to teach and very nice work in all the installation. I know you’re probably dont need any extra help but if you ever have some spare time i would love to come a learn from you. I even pay for the clases please let me know thank you.
Hello there! Send me an email at diyhvacguy@gmail.com I actually had someone make the same request a couple days ago. I thought about lining up a replacement and doing some hands on training during the replacement. Send me an email and maybe we can work something out. Best, Dave
