thats how i do heavy cables, big torch. I like to smack a centerpunch into them after i solder them in for peace of (my) mind. and heatshrink with the glue in it.
Well done mate, good oil. Andersons love em and hate em when they go bad and start arcing. Course there's a heap of cheap charlie copies flooding the market and you know what that means. What was wrong with a pin and socket like MC4s - they are waterproof IP67? - but can you pull them apart in an emergency I dont think so? Anyway slick marketing made these eponymous (like hoover). Very good instruction. Sadly noobs often dont get good soldering technique which is key. Crimping these you need a hydraulic tool and you are right about corrosion wicking up the joint - dont do it. So to make these Andersons water resistant - pack them with silicone grease? What do you think? Personally I would dip the wire in a tub of flux and tin the wire first that way, but Im old school. Now what do you do with an old installation where you have to cut out and replace a bad Anderson. Chances are (if you are a boaty) that water will have wicked up the cables and made surface oxided copper, now blacked and no longer shiny. Normal flux doesnt cut it.
Yeah I try to make sure my cables don't get that far, and I use tinned copper cables which helps a bit with that. The solder is flux core 60/40 tin lead, not lead free, I have seen people do these with silver solder and complain about how bad solder joins are - not realizing lead solder is a thing. but yes they need to get properly hot first I agree.
