Soldering in Pokemon Yellow, Blue and Silver Replacement Save Batteries 

+Dethocracy thanks for the kind words. I have no idea how RU-vid decides which videos show up first in search and suggested videos. Likes, shares, and comments I suppose! I have another video that was supposed to be "the" Pokémon battery video, but it has even less views: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rkQnhfjitDE.html This video was just B-roll footage. I think having the colors in the title makes it show up in more searches. cheers.

I know it’s been a while but any thoughts as to why it won’t save after replacing battery as you did, same steps taken? Appreciate any insight.

​@8bitjunkie8 is there I chance I can sent my pokemon yellow to you cause every time I tried to saved, it's always new game

Reddit is down the hall and to the left.

1) bad battery 2) you put it in backwards 3) bad soldering. step 1: test the battery voltage and polarity Don't have a multimeter? Harbor Freight sells them for $4 - good enough to test the battery, or check ebay

it's preferable to use leaded electronics grade (not plumbing) solder if it's available. lead-free will work but it's harder to work with/requires more heat.

yep, heat the pad. apply solder to the pad, not the iron tip

links to everything are in the video description

:-\ You could use some sandpaper to remove the solder resist above the trace (which will reveal the copper) that goes to the missing pad and solder a piece of wire directly to the trace and the wire to the battery tab. I don't have one I can look at right now to see how difficult that would be, but in general that's a pretty advanced board-level repair.

for this job, I'd go with the 60 watt

Would a 100 watt soldering iron be too much?

Rosin core, yes always. It was probably 63/37 though, but that doesn't matter. It'd be better to add extra flux (flux is magical goodness), but I was being lazy and I didn't want to have to clean it up.

8bitjunkie Ok thanks. Also, what do you use to clean up your flux residue?

90% or better regular isopropyl alcohol and kim wipes - (not "rubbing alcohol" if you are in the USA - rubbing alcohol has oils in it. In other countries, rubbing alcohol may be pure isopropyl but you should check the label)

+R7der97 "Soldering" it keeps it from moving but also connects it electrically. Yes, it can be re-done again.

+8bitjunkie also can i ask: what kind of metal is it?

R7der97 63% lead 37% tin

+blade prower first before what? it doesn't take long to cool down.

+8bitjunkie ok thanks but if I have a battery with those prongs but I don't have a solder can I just tape the battery prongs to the thing

+blade prower some people do but there's a good chance it'll lose connection eventually and lose your saves. I wouldn't do it that way personally.

+8bitjunkie I don't suppose you'd mail me your soldering iron then I'd mail it back 😅

+blade prower you can mail me your game and battery and I'll put it in for you

+Johannes Teunissen yes, you would lose the save game. Yes, there are some solutions. One of them is to change the battery with the game is inserted into a Game Boy with it turned on. Also, there are some devices that will let you backup your save game and then restore it again. Eventually I plan on making a video on how to do it, but in the meantime there are already a few on RU-vid.

Thanks buddy

I'm likely going to store my remaining games through a retron 5 onto an SD card, then put them back onto the cartridges themselves. Too bad my 151/151 red has a dead battery. Time to catch them all again, maybe not misingno this time.

ateb3 if you have to ask that son, you don’t understand the nostalgia of playing on a gameboy/pocket/colour. Plus tinkering is fun.

8bitjunkie do you have any links for the gb carts? I’ve found this one for snes carts. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N7I-oLD6Iyg.html

That's an old Radio Shack multimeter. They were still making it or something very similar up to a few years ago but since Radio Shack went out of business, I'm not sure they're still available. I have a newer, slightly better meter I also use now: amzn.to/2b6oLtn But that one might be overkill for you if all you need to do is measure a few batteries. This is the cheapest one that didn't have terrible reviews on Amazon: amzn.to/2b6oNBk There's also one that Harbor Freight sells that gets "ok" reviews. It's like $8 on Amazon but I hear it sells for even less than that at Harbor Freight stores.

Probably was a bit too low in this video. I think I’d start w 325C and go from there.

8bitjunkie thanks :)

+Darren Connelly I'm not sure exactly but my guess is around 1.8V+- you'd start to risk losing data. I'd look at replacing anything under 2V.

+8bitjunkie feel like this is a good question. whats the voltage of a freshly replaced battery?

+HopelessRomantics nvm u said it was 3.3

Princess bride haha

+Leiana B ya, soldering in the contacts is a must

I did the same, even put a cr2025 in a pokemon yellow cart and it works fine too.

L R 7

@@AzalofForossa Really? It's not dangerous?

@@GENKIDAMA10 If you can't solder then electrical tape is just fine. Just be sure it's not some dollar store tape. And yeah the cr2025 worked just fine. I used some pretty thick electrical tape and it holds it securely by pressing against the cart to hold it snug in place. I don't think I'll ever have issues. 4 years later and it still saves.

all bad lol