I just want to know how the hell do you fit the buttons themselves, the plastic part that has that metal blade, what is that for? And no video shows that! I already know how to solder!
The best nondestructive way to disable the lockout chip (if cleaning and boiling the 72 pin connector hasn’t worked) is to de-solder pin #4 from the board instead of cutting it. A cheap $10 soldering iron and a pair of needle nose pliers works well.
This is how backlight mods should be done. By removing the LCD panel first, peeling off the polarizer and reflector becomes significantly less risky. Well done!
Honestamente, eu fiquei entretido com este vídeo, mesmo que não pretendesse usar as informações que ele contém. Este é um vídeo instrutivo de alto nível. Satisfatório de assistir. Além disso, sua técnica de soldagem é linda. Obrigado!
Soooooo i didnt see anything change on the screen as he was oerforming the tasks.. what was the ourpose of what he was doing? I would have thought thay after he performed the task that he wkuld have advanced to the next level or somwthiy....
There is not adjustment on the “carriage” just get it aligned correctly and you can tighten the screws all the way down. If they don’t go all the way down it’s misaligned. Ask me how I know 😅 ha ha good luck guys
I have disabled the CIC chip on a couple NESs. I like to desolder that one pin and pull it out away from the board. It will work leaving that pin floating but it really should be tied to ground. You can use a short jumper and tie it to the ground for the chip.
@colt5189 just disconnecting the pin will work but that leaves the pin floating. It's better to either tie it high or low. In this case it's low which is ground. When I do them I desolder that pin and pull it up away from the board. I then take a short section of wire or the leg from a new component and tie it to the ground on the chip.
@8bitjunkie8 it's around $20 for one! But for the amount of work and time you put into this, I would much rather pay an extra $10 for way less of the frustration! Lol
Hi, I did try and one is ok, but the other side I break the golden ring, it came out whit the switch, and I have no contact, do you know if is possible to repair that conector??
Great video thanks. I hadn't used my NES for about a year turned it on and got a grey screen. I accidentally ejected the cartridge without switching it off. Led started blinking. I replaced the 72pin connector. Still blinking. After following your video it now works perfectly again. The light was blinking with no cartridge in not sure if that was normal. Can ejecting cartridge with power off kill the lockout chip? Thanks again :)
I've had an issue with the brown (gray, in my case) screen whenever starting Legend of Zelda through my old Game Genie. Works fine without the GG, and all other games work fine both with and without the GG, so I'm chasing connection issues. I'm fairly certain my NES, which I've rebuilt from scratch using a NESessity 1.4 and Hi-Def NES kit, still has the OEM connector since I saw no evidence of the console having been opened up in the past. So as part of my troubleshooting I'll be doing the boiling trick (seems about 30 minutes is the ideal time for the metal to "relax" back to its manufactured position the best), followed by cleaning it and all my cartridge and GG connectors with DeOxIt F5. Next step will be replacing the small caps in the LoZ cartridge, which will suck since my son will lose his game save after I've already replaced the battery, but a necessary sacrifice if he wants to use the GG......
Thanks for sharing this video. The teardown part is valuable by itself. I couldn't find a picture or video of the insides of the Retro Duo anywhere else.
Honestly, I would be entertained by this video even if I didn't intend to use the information it contains. This is a top-notch instructional video. Satisfying to watch. Also, your SMT soldering technique is a thing of beauty.
I brought my NES out of retirement around 10 years ago and it had the blinking light problem. I was told about boiling the connector but thought I was getting pranked and just chucked it and bought a 3rd party connector. It worked fine for quite a few years but ended up getting replaced again but it lasted less than half as long. I replaced it again in June this year and it lasted about 3 months. Because I was tired of replacing the connectors with declining quality I bought a bulk lot of old 1st party connectors. They arrived this week and so far I've tried two of them. They were either giving grey screens, garbled screens or would only work with the cartridge up. After boiling them they worked much better, some games take a couple of goes but most work straight away. I'm a true believer now. 😁
I disabled the lockout chip, I even cleaned several games I owned that did not have the game bit screws, and now I’m getting just a blue screen. I’m not getting the blinking light, but now I’m getting just a blue screen. I did clean the motherboard and I did clean the connections but now I’m encountering this issue. Any advice?
Disabling the lockout chip essentially checks the region of the GAME (usa/europe/japan) and blinks if it doesnt detect the match the same region as the NES CONSOLE. Youve solved the blinking issue now you have a no video issue. You may have the cartridge slot installed without seating the tray under the board making the connection to the game weak. OR if the cartridge slot is in correctly then install a game fully and press it down in the ready position. After doing that wiggle the game from side to side (use the notch in the game) this will cause the pins to rub against the contact points and give the connection needed to read the game. Or worst case you need to check all the point on the video out and or dead completely which is pretty unlikly. NES hol up pretty well Good Luck!
Hi Have you done this mod on the low battery LED?? I did both and switched it for a pink LED however it is not working, I got the power LED working replaced with a blue LED - any advice on the low battery led would be appreciated
Hey im not sure you'll ever see this message especially 7 years after the posting date but I really want to know if your technique or method for doing this has changed. The reason I want to know is because I'm planning on doing this myself and I'm unsure on how to go about it.
I would use hot air and flux to remove the LED or a bunch of flux and and soldering iron turned up pretty high like I did in this video if I didn’t have hot air - skip the wire technique altogether. Another help would be to use chip quick (see the easy game boy screen removal video).
Thanks for your video. I was wondering why my WiiU GamePad came with 1 less screw on the RZ side bracket. It seems some batches are not screwed on that position.
