Guys like this really are angels in human clothing. The time and effort that goes into making these productions is enormous, and for so little return. This is a guy who just wants to help other people. Show your appreciation and hit like and subscribe. Please.
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Why do manufacturers take exhaust gases from before the d.p.f. or cat rather than from near the exhaust tailpipe where the gases are cleaner and much cooler?
@@user-mv6li7fi8e It's a good question but you are asking the wrong person. I see videos saying EGR deletes are unadvisable as their function is often misunderstood, so my opinions are conflicted.
it's a team effort in my opinion, the oil from the PCV helps the soot from the EGR stick to the intake valves. If I was going to remove just one to help with carbon build up it would probably be with an oil catch can on the PCV.
What is a "motorway?" Do you mean like the Freeway/Expressway/interstate? I'm American, so maybe it's called different things abroad. I'll have to look that up. Okay. Just looked that up. It's definitely a UK thing to call the expressway a motorway. I think that's a bit strange, but I do think that calling calling 'soccer' as football is much better. Makes more sense. We should call our football...handball, lol.
When it comes to cars I guess our languages evolved separately, it is a minefield I walk every day. Brake rotor/Brake disk Trunk/Boot Fender/Wing Sidewalk/Pavement Tire/Tyre Gas/Petrol Tunes/Remaps LOL - divided by a common language.
Old trick with carbon build up on piston heads was Redex down spark plug holes. In the US they like to use Berryman's B12 Chemtool. 1. Get car to operating temperature. 2. Remove coil packs and spark plugs. 3. Remove EFI fuse and/or disconnect injector plugs. 4. Pour 25ml to 50ml REDEX/Berrymans down each plug hole. 5. You can short soak for 30 mins or do a 24 hour soak (if 24 hour consider changing oil after as some may seep down your piston rings into sump). 6. Hand rotate engine a few times to allow product to penetrate Oil Control Ring and Compression Rings. 7. Place a towel over spark plug holes. 8. Crank car over for 10 seconds x 3 times to expel any remaining product from cylinders to prevent hydrolock. 9. Reconnect spark plug/coils and EFI/injectors. 10. Start car. 11. Car will sputter and may struggle to start. But it will. 12. Car may splutter and sound like misfiring but after a minute or two of ticking over this settles. 13. Expect lots of smoke from the exhaust! 14. Continue to idle until car reaches operating temperature. 15. Take car for a good highway blast, getting up to 60MPH/70MPH (legally of course)! 16. On occasion hold in 3rd gear and try and get car under load like up a steep hill. 17. Expect fist waves from angry motorists as smoke clears from your tailpipe. 18. Once smoke has cleared, go home and hope your neighbours are still friendly. Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk! This is something I have done many times in the past as have millions of other drivers around the world. DIY Dave did this on his videos with his oil burning Corolla.
That's the wrong part of the engine, we are all talking about what is above the valves and what is in the intake. You're only looking at what is inside the cylinder. Advice is about 40years out of date !
Catch cans: Junk just fills up with condensation that can freeze in winter. Will contain a little bit of oil. Intake sprays: Junk. Other that: spot on infos. Liked the video a lot. Only manual physical cleaning of intakes works... tis true. Moisture in the morning also feels like it has carbon build up.... You may notice that it does not appear when the motor is dry in the morning.
In the generator world, the 8.1 GM used to have some issues with the crankcase breather can freezing up, it has a cleanable filter inside like a k+n and there's always a half a cup of water and oil cottage cheese and it can all freeze up. Once they put a thick blanket around it ,no more issues. There's still plenty of moisture but it doesn't freeze and pump out 5 quarts from the front seal now.
Intake sprays only work as preventative maintenance. If you do them regularly (5-7k miles), they can prevent major carbon build-up. However, if you wait until the carbon is caked on thick, the sprays barely do anything.
Hi, there is a Canadian guy posting videos on the mk2 TT. He shows how he does his car walnut cleaning in a quite nice manner. Il would tend to believe this is a touchy by great method. I'll try and do it this winter when I replace my injectors. Again congrats for your videos. All the best
i changed out the baffle plate for the pcv in my 2.0 Ecoboost with a labyrinth style baffle plate, this does a great job in preventing oil vapour reaching the intake. previously the throttlebody was soaking wet with oil, now it is dry as can be. i replaced the intake manifold and took te liberty to clean the valve stalks, i left them soaking over night with wynn's DI valve cleaner, then with all kinds of brushes i got the valves pretty clean, for small contaminants you could spray the solution direct into the intake if you prefere
Thank you from Ontario Canada! Other RU-vid posts go on about Carbon Build up but fall short of explanation. This is arguably the best explanation I have found to date on how the carbon is getting into the intake. The EGR and PCV makes sense. I recently replaced my wife’s MPI mall crawler with a GDI ICE. For her short trips an EV might have been a better choice, but I’m not ready to embrace EV just yet. Seeing this video I think that I’ll be taking her car to work a couple time a week to hopefully “blow the carbon out” as we used to say in the 70s and 80s. Also I will study up on adding some sort of valve cleaning into my regular maintenance routine.
I'm in the process of carbon atm. I'm using oven cleaner, and a high-pressure water jet cleaner is the go. If I were doing this as a business, I would buy a large ultrasonic cleaner and wallnut blaster that would be the best.
On my old tdi, I had the intake off and the head ports were nasty. Make sure the valve is closed and whack it a while with a propane torch and they cleaned up nice ,along with the manifold. Sucks about most newer manifolds being plastic. Still can use a propane torch to burn some of that crap out first and help any chemicals you might use.
Carbon (ash) build-up in my DPF choked the engine...a professional off car clean has restored performance and fuel economy to 'as new' levels even though the car has done 120,000 miles...it's a Mazda CX-7...cheers
@@cm-kl2wx I'm a mechanic, no one here tells you the truth, even the mechanics don't know, only I know maybe and someone else can know if you don't say it
@@miri2553 I used my brothers professional scan tool and checked differential pressures before and after cleaning...the post clean reading was zero pressure at idle and minimum levels at 3000rpm. This proved that the procedure had been successful. It's essential to know and be able to interpret the pressure readings. My brother who is also a mechanic learned something from the experience...cheers.
I have a '19 Range Rover Velar P250 (petrol 4 cyl. turbo-charged) with GDFI. I take oil changes to a new level to mitigate carbon build up on the valves from the EGR and PCV systems. Change the oil every 6 mos. OR 3000 miles with a high quality oil, e.g., LiquidMoly LR. I also try to make sure that any time driving the vehicle, I drive a minimum number of miles for a full warmup and I don't baby it.
Carbon build up was still an issue even on port injection and carburetor cars just less often. Where it’s been bad is DI cars with turbo applications. Usually due to poor pcv design or the ridiculous oil change lengths and the oil burns off and gets sucked into the valve. Valvoline clean and restore oil actually helps more than you’d think. Also there’s ALWAYS some sort of blow by regardless because there’s no such thing as perfectly sealed piston rings. Don’t use cheap oil. Also pennzoil is terrible at oil vapor. Oil catch cans don’t help a whole lot on cars that are bad like VW and Audi. Also it’s not carbon usually it’s oil vapor burning on the intake valve when hot. Ask any auto manufacturer they didn’t add port again to reduce carbon. It’s emissions efficiency not carbon reduction.
my 22 years old, 18 years and 8 years old are in great shape without any issue with carbon build up, Any ! I always using at least 95 RON and full synthetic engine oil and driving them a bit aggresive eventhough on daily commute ! both of them are Germany -- Feel good --
@@volt8684 with the ages of the cars he listed they're probably not direct injection, if they are port injection the petrol/air mixture acts as a cleaning agent for the inlet valves.
EGR is mostly the culprit. Egr and extended oil change intervals. Be wary of "flush" type treatments because they can cause big chunks of hardened carbon to circulate throughout your engine, blocking oilways & wreaking havoc.
I advise strongly against catch cans unless you know exactly what you're doing. Improperly set up cans can overpressure a turbo crankcase causing bad problems. Unless you properly set up a top of the line ($$$) can system, you're really not accomplishing anything other than risk. In my experience, i caught nothing but water in the winter, nothing at all in the summer, & was pooling shocking amounts of oil in the charge pipes, all while the intake valves were completely coked at 20k mi. Luckily, I didn't blow out my main seals.
At 130 miles in the odo i just removed both heads and use my scotch brite stainless to remove all carbon by hand and with the help of a pick tool, tested all valvles for leak and put back with a new set of gasket. The power and smoth of engine went back pretty good, Although my engine is not direct injected.
Archoil 6900-P Max may help prevent carbon buildup on some direct injection engines. Although I have not yet seen a long-term test to show its efficacy. It certainly improves the burn of the fuel in my car.
@@fzr1000981 it remains unburnt in the recycled exhaust and is fed back using egr. Also if you have a miller cycle engine, or an Atkinson cycle engine some fuel gets spit back behind the intake valve before combustion. It may not be enough to completely prevent the issue but a cleaner burn and regular oil changes may slow its egress.
Valvoline's new oil is showing promise on the intake valves. We are using it and scoping personal cars now. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
My son works for Ampol Australia. Here in Oz 95 & 98 unleaded fuel is given fuel injector cleaner @ 450 parts per million parts, as part of an additive package into the fuel, as it is loaded into tankers... (same stuff you buy in the bottles which he describes as a "massive mega dose" when the whole bottle is added usually 250 ml) Cheaper fuel suppliers/ petrol stations, here in Australia, do not have the injector additive, so add 2.5 millilitres per 50 litres of injector cleaner to your fuel if you are concerned. (two tenths of F'all)
Thank you. We just bought a new Nissan Rouge with a 1.5 engine. My wife drives back and forth to work five days weekly and it's about a 56-mile trip. Otherwise, it's trips in town of 20-30 minutes each. Hopefully, this is a good driving mix to keep the carbon low. Could you please do a video on the Three-cylinder engines, including the Nissan unit? Being new to a small engine and having never owned a turbo, help, and maintenance advice would be appreciated.
This is exactly why i own two Toyota rav4s , with the 2.5 liter naturally aspirated engines. They have both, direct and port injection. They call it the (dynamic force engine) (d4s). Carbon buildup is not a concern !!!
The US Northeast distributor of a major heavy equipment manufacturer advised me to buy a used pre-dpf unit unless it was for commercial use due to the fact that the current model year equipment had between $7,000 and $14,000 added to the MSRP for emmissions warranty repairs. A homeowner was going to get screwed by the time factor of the warranty.
I have a 2013 Genesis coupe 3.8, when I got it to 100k I decided to get it walnut blasted to clean out the carbon. It actually wasn't as bad as some I've seen. I went ahead and replaced injectors also. She's at 143k and still going strong *knock on wood* .
the gas companies need to switch back to the old school gas and ditch the ethanol in the gas. Have noticed more frequent stops at the gas station and all these cars throwing EGR, catalytic converter and O2 sensor codes?
Cars that do that were already broken or had badly written self tuning software /diagnostic monitors. A modern engine with heated sensors will go into closed loop almost instantly and correct fuel doses by itself. It will even learn and correct baseline values over time. Slightly lower/higher octane or little bit of alcohol should not affect it. If a fuel works well with modern cars and is cheaper to make without absolutely horrific additives they are not switching back.
@@stevo5976 Ethanol only seems cheaper because you are ignoring the federal subsidies that coerce you to think so. Also Ethanol has less energy than gasoline so it is impossible to "make more power" which is why you also get worse fuel mileage using ethanol. See U.S. Dept. of energy, Alternative fuels, Ethanol has 30% less energy than gasoline despite what some youtube experts claim.
The media used to clean the back of the intake valves is grounded walnut shells. any walnut shell residu will be burned in the process of combustion. In my personal experience, any name brand synthetic eng. oil. Will help with carbon build up, Just because it's a name brand synthetic eng. oil, don't extend your oil changes. The best synthetic. eng. oil is clean oil... Eng. Oil is cheep, engines aren't. Cheep oil is better, than extending your oil change, and even better than no oil change.
Great information; thanks! If the intake manifold is (partially) clogged, would that exacerbate this issue further, as there’s less air available for the incoming fuel? Cheers
7:41 what is considered a longer drive? Would that simply be reaching a certain temperature? For a certain period? Could a 15min freeway drive once a week be a good thing (as an example)? Running at higher revs more often vs trying to conserve fuel by keeping revs low?
@@genomedia44 both, for example, stay away from overdrive to keep your rpms higher while cruising at lower speeds. Plus opt to use the highway ( motorway lol ) to get to your destination when possible in order to get those higher speeds more consistently, thus providing your engine a more "natural" way of cleaning off the deposits.
How about we use very high quality oil and filters. Also stop the higher mileage oil changes. We do all oil changes between 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Always a high quality full synthetic oil and OEM oil filters. Even on the newer engines that state 15,000 to 20,000 mile service. Not at my shop. As the oil gets older, it thins out and lowers cylinder sealing. Its all at very small amounts. It does cause more blow-by and more oil vapors enter the valve cover and intake hose before the throttle body. After that you get build up on the back of the intake valves.
They do carbon up as well , particularly if the EGR system and or injectors go bad or do lots of short trips, but as most car diesels are turbo these days and have loads of torque they are rarely driven at higher revs the effect on performance is less noticeable but if oyu are gettgin DPF issues say then you can be sure inlet side is cacked up as well.
2.0 TDI, thinking of cleaning the intake and the valves soon (used car but new to me). Undecided if a catch can will do much (it gets cold where I am. Required to keep my EGR system.
Wonder if anyone has tested water injection long enough to determine if it helps. Youd think with the speed it would help keep the valves a little cleaner. Sure ,carbon isnt water soluble but anything becones water soluble the longer it is exposed. The intake and ports would probably only xlean up where theres a direction change and droplets cant make the curve so good.
I went from a 1.5 DCI (Renault), to a Dynamic Force 2.0 (Toyota). Modern diesels suck in city and short trips, which is what I ended up doing. Had to replace my four injectors (bad fuel? bad injectors?) in that Megane. At least Toyota tries. It's got dual injection (port and direct), a chain, and vvti, with a 39% efficiency, stil has EGR and all that fluff. Shame Toyota will 'downsize' in the next generation. Small capacity, highly strung turbos, bye bye reliability. All for the sake of emissions. Anyway, in ten years, we might not even be allowed petrol cars anyway.
Hi. It would be very helpful if you could make a video or specify some popular car brands on which this problem can occur. Are there, for example, any popular engines in the Japanese car world where this problem occurs? I know on the skyactive engine on the mazda 3 this can occur. Is it widespread at Hyundai ? Does toyota have any ?
What would you recommend for cleaning a Golf mk3 vr6 2.8 1997 engine? Mine runs really well and has done over 205k miles now. Just wondering whether I'd need to anything with the engine or to leave it alone. It's passed all MOTs recently and I put a cleaner in the petrol tank and have it serviced regularly
Unfortunately the area that is experiencing carbon fouling is the valves and intake systems which are not exposed to the engine oil nor the fuel. So neither oil nor fuel additive will affect the issue at hand which is dirty, oily air directed into the intake from the pcv & the egr. Those two emissions systems are the Achilles heel of these modern engines. You could also include the fuel management systems that cuts off cylinders and oil in the name of fuel economy, which is a joke. Physically it takes x amount of power to move a specific vehicle a certain speed, the fuel has x amount of power per a gallon, it's just limited by the laws of physics. The quest for unreasonable fuel economy and emissions are costing the consumer a fortune and driving the price of vehicles sky high.
Aromatics ? N-Methyl aniline, also known as NMA, is a chemical compound that can be used in the context of boosting fuel octane Can this NMA produce gum buildup at high temperatures?
I have trouble understanding how hydrolocking could be a problem when you spray a cleaner into the intake of an engine. Lets say you have a 2000 cc four cylinder engine with 12:1 in compression ratio that idles at 800 rpm. That means that every 500 cc cylinder is ingesting nearly 500 cc of air 400 times in a minute (or 6.67 times every second) and that the 500 cc air is being compressed to 41.67 cc. Wouldn't you need to inject more than 41.67cc x 6.67 = 278 cc per second to achieve hydrolock? That is a lot of volume I've never heard of hydrolock being a problem unless you drive into water that is so deep that it comes into the intake or if you have a ignition failure on a Top Fuel Dragster
It is indeed very unlikely but some of the products I've used contained the warning so I'm just covering myself by flagging this up - you might get that guy who decides to use multiple spray cans. Also bear in mind that some drivers have 3 cylinder small capacity engines and the delivery systems of these sprays (especially the pro formulations) are not just aerosol based.
The E.G.R. statements at 3:29-3:30 are not true. E.G.R. is only enabled after the engine reaches closed loop and operating temperature and it is never enabled at idle or just low RPM. It primarily is enabled at steady state cruising speeds and part-throttle loads just above cruising speed. The following P.C.V. statements are also not entirely accurate. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation system is designed to contain the expected levels of "Blow-by" gases from escaping through previous engine designs vents and breathers that just allowed those gases to escape into the atmosphere. The P.C.V. system redirects these gases back into the intake manifold to be burned. It also prevents the gases from condensing into the engine oil where they form acids and deteriorate the engine oil prematurely and can etch the machined surfaces (journals, bores etc...). The carbon build-up is from engine oil vapor and engine oil being deposited on the intake valve and passages. Some oil comes down the intake valve past the stem seal and guide. Primarily, the PCV system draws oil vapor through the intake manifold and contributes to the carbon build-up that does not get washed away without wet-flow induction systems (such as carburetion, throttle-body fuel injection or port-fuel injection). So, the problem stems from the move to Direct Injection alone. Direct injection should always be coupled with Port injection to prevent this occurrence. I personally think the gains from D.I. are not worth all the extra complexity and loss of durability. Port injection is still the best all-around way to introduce fuel into a gasoline combustion engine. Catch-cans, if properly designed will indeed reduce the rate of oil vapor entering the intake manifold. Once installed, they should be opened and cleaned out regularly to maximize the intended effect of keeping the oil vapor out of the intake manifold and as way to monitor the engines overall health by visually seeing the levels of blow-by being captured.
Thank you so much for the clarification to my understanding, I think I got the wrong end of the stick here, unless there is a car maker out there that does something different to most, so I have snipped out the mention of warm up and idle. I'll use your comments to further improve the knowledge I can share and really appreciate your taking the time to share your wisdom. What a great community we have on here!
Buy a petrol with port and direct injection or a Suzuki they are port injection only because they don't sell them in the USA or buy am older vehicle like my 1997 Toyota Hilux it has a carburator unfortunately that's only in Australia
5:58?? Errm just no. Particle filter has no effect on carbon build up in intake or combustion chamber, as that's after any EGR happens, just reduces the amount of particulate combustion products that make it out the tail pipe.
Modern engines now use a PF before the EGR for this very reason. Gen 3 engines were moving towards this system. Anything older then you are probably right but I'm specifically mentioning MODERN engines here for that point.
Good know thanks. Modern cars suck lol. I used to change my cars every few years because all my journeys were 5 mins or less between jobs and it was hard on the cars, seems like modern cars have NOT fixed that ptoblem just made it worse ... An electric car might actually have a use case there lol 😂😂. Retired now and happy with an ebike .😂😂
I think the car manufacturers thought ok we got to cut emissions .. lets wear the engines out and make more money ... Idiot governments and climate cranks aren't helping ... Catch cans don't really work ... EGR reduction plate is a good idea 😊 ... A rethink from the engine design is needed and the ridiculous regulations need a review . Now we know ev s are crap we need to sort these diesels out
