Something is Wrong with our Video Editing Rig... 

One more note: I tested the TR CPU with another 360 AIO just to be safe and I still had 70-80°C in Windows idle without doing anything. So something must be wrong with that CPU or maybe the VRM Edit: After all your feedback I will make sure to work on an update video to investigate the issue further :)

For any non-german speakers that are wondering why flüssig is not a good translation for liquid: Flüssig is an adjective, its noun is Flüssigkeit. Thus, the LCD should say Flüssigkeit, which was probably shortenend to fit on the screen. This is lost in translation, since liquid is both adjective and noun.

"In any case, not a fan of this, literally" LOL

very sad and dissapointed, the problem seemed very cool would love to know what acutally caused it. Yeah an educated guess can be made but still.

I made a video reviewing this Kryosheet, and have gotten a lot of negative feedback, not on the Kryosheet itself, but rather how I handled it. People are complaining that I touched it with my fingers. Can you please clarify if this is an issue or not? Thank you Roman!

Would love to see the chip put into another board. I thought at first it was the board not reading temp correctly, but it was heating up on thermal cam. So, if the chip is getting hot and the cooler is working, and power is not spiking up then it must be something within the chip broken. (seems very odd as usually chips good motherboards bad).

jesus just in bios 96C..its like the cooler is not even making any contact lol. Also big thank you for all the effort you put into your content, especially for us EN people

Thermal engineer here: My guess would be a malfunctioning pump or something clogged, here's my reasoning: Water has a specific heat capacity of 4,200 Joules per kilogram per degree kelvin. At one kilogram (or liter) per second flow rate it would take 4.2kW to raise the water temp by 1°C. The difference is more like 45°C? Which with a CPU power consumption of 420w would suggest 0.1°C rise at 1l/s. Meaning to hit that 65°C we're talking a flow rate of 1.5mL per second. or 0.09L/min, or 5.4 l/hr. The corsair H100 has known issues with slow flow rate apparently. Not sure exactly what model you're using Put intuitively: If the flow rate was a miniscule amount above zero then the water temp out of the CPU block would be pretty much the CPU max temp, with good fans and rad the return would be about room temp. This is vaguely what we're seeing. If the flow rate was infinite with good fans and rad, then the water temp in and out of the CPU would be almost identical. This is the opposite of what we're seeing. If the fans and rad weren't functioning then the return to the CPU would also be hot. If the thermal interface was bad then the flow from the CPU wouldn't be hot and roughly the same as the input. This means that it must be a water flow rate issue. Check pump rpm, flow rate. Check for clogs/kinks/flow restrictions.

i think the first step would be testing the cpu on another motherboard, its more likely the motherboard's VRM has failed for some reason than the CPU failure, although it did seem like a contact issue given what the thermal paste looked like after removing the AIO water block, possibly the settings in bios have changed for what ever reason and increased the power draw, maybe the Power supply isnt delivering the correct current, voltage etc...

Id really love a deep dive into why the threadripper was over powering so badly.

I had a very similar issue with an Asus rampage 3 extreme I had on my main PC for about 2 years. Near the end the system couldn't stay on for longer than 5 minutes, it'd just shut down in the same fashion with your threadripper. I couldn't figure out what it was at the time, so I eventually got sick of it and switched my platform to ryzen, which was new back then, and didn't look back. It was only 6 years later that the curiosity got the better of me and tried to diagnose the old mainboard. All that time it was the northbridge overheating, as soon as the IOH got to 100° the system would shut down. I put on some fresh thermal paste on both the northbridge and the Southbridge but the problem persists, the only way to keep the IOH temps in check is to have a fan blowing directly at the northbridge. As soon as I did that the system was stable. It's actually my home server now and it has no problems staying on 24/7.

I was hoping you're gonna at least put a different AIO on the CPU and check whether the issue persists, I was almost, hm, screaming, 'PUT A DIFFERENT COOLER ON' :D That'd be the next logical step honestly.

Roman, was this the 3960X you delidded? Could it be that the LM dried out after diffusing into the IHS for 3 years? If not, I still think it might have something to do with the IHS bowing after uneven pressure was applied to it with an undersized coldplate. Wouldn't also surprise me if A'SUS lived up to their name again. I've had problems on every AMD board I bought from them for some reason. Really annoying.

cant u tell its the cat man. she couldnt sleep on top of it due to all the heat from cpu. i recon she just got annoyed with this and sabotaged the rig. just go and ask for her highnesses forgiveness and u will see that ur rig works in no time

The AIO has to be the issue. If the CPU got to 100c, that means the water is getting hot, and theirs no way the return would be that cold like it shown on the thermal video when the water in he returning loop back to the pump should have been a lot warmer than what it was showing on the termal video. This video might best a test for his audience to see if we caught it or how knowledgeable we are. CPU hot at idle, First check and test cooler, termal paste. Then check HWIfo for power draw, then reset Bios. If this doesn't work, put CPU in another motherboard, or it might be too late, you fried your CPU due to a bad AIO. Like to know if the CPU works on another setup, cheers!

Now this is so coincidental, I have the same MOBO-CPU and had the same liquid cooler. Pump speed was at max and CPU was overheating. In fact, this was my second liquid cooler as the first one leaked. Started to suspect the cooler so I replaced it with a dual-fan Noctua threadripper cooler. Problem solved, CPU now running at normal temps from idle to max. All within spec. I am done with liquid coolers, no way to determine flow in the cooling loop so obviously no flow going thru the cooler. I have read of internal blockages with this cooler on some forums. At least with the Noctua you can actually see if there is any dust buildup on the fans / fins and clean.

Blocked radiator. Easy one. One searing hot pipe. One cold pipe. There was no flow. Your thermal imaging camera showed that it was blocked as it entered the radiator. Chances are it’s been hot too long at some point and also damaged itself due to high temperature for a consistent time. That deformation shows the CPU was in burn out mode for quite some time.

Look 1:40 fans RPM are all over the place. There really can be only few things, but as it is actually hot, sensors are probably ok. Pump might be rotating, but are blades ok, as rad seems to be "Cold". Radiant/conducting heat, as heat rises, so one tube is hot but nothing else, water is not circulating --> blocked somewhere or pump. Blockade has gotten worse as time goes on, as you said radiator has pushed super-hot air before!

Both hoses should be warm on the water cooling.

*Disclaimer - I have not read through the comments - Apologies if this it is a repeat.* 20 years ago (22 really) I had a capacitor the half failed on my motherboard. it was top right corner of cpu. It was so hot, one couldn't touch it. This lead to the CPU over heating at idle and if started from cold would get hot very quick. My suggestion and thought for this issue is similar to that, something in the power circuit on the motherboard, not holding power back on chip, or die. Disabling cores to get it to run, also lead me to think this is the case. Though the cores / CPU could be damaged now. So hard to say. Look forwarded to more details

Sir, that does not seem right that the hot side of an AIO loop is *that* much hotter than the cold side. That's either a *really* good AIO being able to dump all the heat and cool the water to ambient, *or* there's a clog in the radiator. I was a little disappointed you didn't put the thermal camera on the radiator to see how much of it was hot or if the heat was only really radiating out from one spot, signifying a leak. Can't wait for the follow-up. Maybe try to blow a little compressed air into the AIO and see if it coughs out a hairball.

When seing the thermal images of the loop I immediately thought: That radiator has basically no flow. In no circumstance would 70+c water turn into a room temp radiator at the inlet port... It would start really hot and then spread out from there. Edit: Really disappointing that you did not verify the flow in the radiator as it was absolutely not working well...

My idea is that the return tube somewhere was gunked up, and water could not circulate. That's why one of the tubes were hot, but they should have been around the same temperature (+- 5-10 °C compared to each other)

An easy check would have been to put a different cooler on the CPU and see if anything changes

You are supposed to use liquid cooling blocks made for threadripper cpu's, the round surface coolers leave half of the processor surface empty. you know but you missed it.

Really good solution for the Kryosheets to stop them moving about. I'm planning to use them in my upcoming build and was slightly nervous about biffing the alignment while getting the cooler on, so the fact you have a solution for this already is great.

Very unusual from you not to nail down the issue, especially since it might be something to do with the degradation of the CPU/Bios hardware that might lead to CPU getting pumped full of voltage without MB knowing about it. I would love to see further investigation, I am sure someone would gladly let you borrow another Threadripper CPU/MoBo combo to act as control group.

Don't be lazy and try a different cooler. The difference in temperature between the intake tube and outtake tube suggest a broken or slow pump. Ideally they should have a temperature delta under 10-15c MAX, as fast flowing water doesn't heat up much

The CPU shunt-modded itself😁

Cpu heating? This may sound strange, but it happened to me, after changing all the components, except the PSU, nothing changed. Soon, I discovered the component: PSU. Either the PSU or some cable, or even connector, I don't know because I didn't have anything to test so I simply replaced the PSU and everything was normal, both on the old and new components.

IHS partially splitted from the core. There might have been bad contact from the start and after many cycles of heating up and cooling down it finally cracked.

try to measure vcore with a multimeter.

Half of the stick of memory are not detected in the bios, if you watch carefully

Pstates settings? Seems strange to be running hot when just sitting in BIOS. Perhaps a reset of all settings and a CMOS reset followed by a thorough manual configuration and checking of all settings?

Can it be that heatspreader separated from chip?

You might have baked the CPU core chiplets by using a standard-sized coldplate. I've seen this happened several times including my old Athlon 64. Replacing the degraded CPU is the only option.

With one of the AIO tubes being very hot and the other being not hot at all, don't you typically expect the coolant to not have such huge temperature differences? The temperature of the coolant usually only goes down gradually after repeated passes through the loop, doesn't it? I know you ruled out the AIO in this video, but this still seems pretty sus to me. Maybe there was a partial blockage in the radiator or something.

Multiple issues. Clogged AIOs always look like that on flir. It is undersized coldplate, doing heavy rendering, it cooked and bent IMHO.

OK, so you had to disable some of the cores beforehand to keep it working at all at some point, right? so why didn't you check the convexity of the CPU and/or motherboard itself? maybe some of the pins got loose and had no contact whatsoever and yet the CPU was powered on so it might have been some overpowering due to loose contacts. put it on a table, take a look from the side and see if the IHS had been bent.

Yea that is interesting.. I wanna see update on that if you figure out what is causing that. Somehow it's pulling more power than it's reporting? Did you check how much it's pulling from the wall?

Something may be causing an aggressive clock/power consumption. Lots of causes. I’d try the next steps to try and determine if there is a config allowing the CPU to be full throttle at idle. Reset BIOS. Try setting the cpu power on in Windows to balanced. If PBO is on, try turning it off. Set the max TDP to something the cooler can handle. Try static clocks. If it’s not software then my guess is there is a short in the CPU and it’s dying.

You need custom loop: more robust pump, better cooling performance,easier to debug. I cool a 3090 and a 5950x with only 240+120 rads. And it’s almost silence. Just maybe. I don’t know what is exactly going on here..

If it's drawing that much power while doing nothing in bios, then the defect is definitely not with the cooler. You may have access to other threadripper motherboards or CPUs to test if it's either one, but most people don't. I do imagine AMD would want to analyze it for what's causing the problem. If it's a design flaw or something slipped by in their validation testing that they could improve on that side.

Solution. LN2 Video Editing. Have a dedicated POT MANAGER, who continuously tops up the LN2 POT, until the Editing is done.

Wait... what? The temperature was too high and it powered off?????????????? We're forever being told from every outlet that some arbitrary value below the junction temperature is "bad" when a lower arbitrary value is "good". You mean to tell me a CPU will preserve itself when it gets (actually) too hot? Mind. Blown.

I've had my H100i since 2020 and amazed it's still keeping my 5600X cool.

As far as forgetting to remove the peel off the thermal pad on the integrated nvme heatsink, I too came to that realization one day... funny thing is I never saw a difference 'til this day. That poor nvme ssd is doing just fine and probably didn't really care one bit lol Also, I'm thinking it's CPU related... the moment the AiO is ruled out was the main culprit.

So it states in the video that this had been going on for months and he'd disabled cores. The timing of this video seems odd. It's almost as if Intel have begged their Agents to do anything to deflect attention from the 13th and 14th Gen stability issues. 😂 Please note this is a JOKE. Would like to see whether someone would lend Roman the same model TR to see whether it's a motherboard issue.

I'm curious to know myself. I'm even scratching my head going ... what is happening here .. Cannot wait to see the deep dive into this.

I had one do same thing, aio was plugged off. One tube would get hot and the other was cold, changed aio and running great.

You should be double checking the motherboard. Switch motherboard and check.

And this is why keeping extra or "leftover" parts are important. I would have swapped another cpu into this system just to see if I get the same results. Much easier to start there vs tearing down the entire system. If you receive the same results, probably a MOBO issue or cooling issue. If you do not receive the same results, you can deduce the current CPU is okay. You could also drop the TR CPU into another working system and see if that CPU again achieves the same negative result.* Troubleshooting is absolutely a pain to do but always best, if possible, to move the suspect (CPU or other part) to a working system . IE monitor seems defective. Hook monitor to another system. If same result mon is bad or cables etc. But I wouldn't start by removing my GPU or running more invasive tests if I can just hook it up to something I know works as intended. Happy to see you will do some more investigating. Cheers 🖖 *Edit after rereading my post. Forgot TR do not use the same MOBO as say a 3800 cpu ... 😮‍💨 If you have another TR setup then my advice is valid. If not, then you could reach out to someone you trust and can assist. OR if you just happen to have an additional TR mobo you can still test that CPU just to see if the results are similar. Though that does cause a more intensive tear down. The joys of computers. 😳lol

The older TR chips might've gotten by on a smaller cold plate, but I think the 3000 and newer have chiplettes that extend beyond that AIOs cold plate. There's only one AIO that would give adequate coverage, and it's the unreliable Enermax (I have one).

My OCD was triggered by not using the top CPU-connected NVMe slot. Also found it amusing that the plastic over the NVMe thermal pad was not removed. Proves no one is perfect. XD

Probably some voltage regulation/reporting issue? The normal voltage in use on that CPU should be around 1.3-1.4V. The BIOS showed half of that and still near it's max temp and staying there. That combination seems impossible? Only way to know for sure is test it on another motherboard.

Have you tried a threadripper air cpu cooler to just confirm it’s not a cooler issue. CMOS reset? Memory controller may not handle having all slots filled (AMD always sucks with memory)?

First of all, the thermal camera shows the year 1970. 😂 The processor has an internal problem in three ccds, because there is a current leakage inside the paths themselves. it happens on ccd1, ccd2, ccd4. Vram is under heavy load, because it constantly feeds the demand of the ccds. If you manage to lower the temperatures for a while, do the AIDA64 test for the L3 cache, if their bandwidth is significantly reduced, it is definitely due to a bad processor. GL+HF

I had an AIO pump fail on me once. It made me so much paranoid that I set my bios so that it takes me to temps dashboard first before anything else. Also I got ALF2 since and been happy with it ever since.

There is such a long proud tradition of German industrial design, and you decide to put that graphics card in a white case? For shame! 😉

Meanwhile other youtubers: BuT nO aSuS pRoDuCt iS bAd....

I was thinking if there is any issue with the AIO pump not moving water fast enough, but the pinned comment ruled that out...

I like troubleshooting videos. Going through the critical thinking and diagnosis. I see too many reddit newbs who won't even try so this is good for DIY PC culture.

the warping filter from the heat is insane lol

I'd like to see a power measurement from the wall, 100w shouldn't be enough to warp the dust filter.

I think you should look at the IHS and see if it separated or not a tight bond.

i must have hit the AIO lottery back in 2012. i have an fx 8350 machine overclocked to 4.4ghz running a corsair h110i AIO. i never turned off the machine longer than 20 minutes for extremely occasional cleaning. the system has resided in my garage for the last 3 years as my CNC control pc. I live in Arizona where we regularly hit up to 120 degrees in the summer. it is still working 24/7 even though the garage is not cooled in any way shape or form. Specs: FX 8350, asus sabertooth 990fx r2 MB, 32 gb ram, 3x sli evga gtx 780 sc, seasonic 1250 watt 80+ platinum power supply in a corsair obsidian 550d case. NOTE 2 of the 3 graphics cards have died due to compressed air cleaning. temps on it are still far lower than my ryzed 5950x machine i currently run.

Seems like clogged radiator, it's impossible for the AIO to achieve that much ΔT between the hot pipe and the cold pipe. So the flow should be severely hampered through the radiator.

I miss using my NZXT Kraken G10. I had it on my 1080 Ti, and it was amazingly cool, always. But can't use it on the 6900 XT. I did place heat sinks on basically all parts on the PCB of the graphics card, and it worked so well.

I'd prefer all cases to come without fans. I use my own anyways. The included fans are just in a box.

It would be interesting to measure power draw with an elmor PMD or a power meter at the wall. This temperature doesn't feel in line with 120W

Peerless Assassin - can't go wrong.

I agree with you after checking the cooling solutions that the problem has to be with either the CPU or the motherboard. Personally I'm leaning more towards the motherboard. I get why you ultimately decided to just go build a new system, but I would've at least tried clearing the CMOS and testing again first (maybe even updating the BIOS) just in case there was some kind of errant setting I was unaware of nor saw when checking settings (Did you overclock that Threadripper? I doubt you did, one because there's not much point and two because you were only using a 240 AIO that didn't cover the full IHS. If you were overclocking it, you surely would've been using a much beefier cooling solution, but I have to ask as a matter of never making assumptions. Honestly, I would personally use the Noctua NH-U14S TR4 edition over that 240 AIO. Threadripper really benefits from using a cooler that covers the full IHS and an air cooler that does cover the full IHS has been found to perform better than an AIO that doesn't.). I might've even tried specifically configuring it to run on a lower power profile, but that doesn't exactly prove which is the problem until you can get ether a different CPU or motherboard to test. But it might get you stable enough to use it in the meantime to do more testing. 120W at idle does seem really high. Way too high. Up until the beginning of this year, I was running a Threadripper 1950X and that thing rarely ever pulled more than 60W at idle. Which oddly enough is the same wattage my currently 7950X pulls at idle most of the time. You're 3960X is pulling double that at idle and it's not even double the core count. I know not to assume linearity in power requirements, but still my gut feeling is 120W at idle seems way too high. I strongly feel like that idle wattage should be much lower. I've never used a 3960X, but I would be really surprised if it was normal for that CPU to idle at anything more than 80W at max. So that's what I would be looking at next. Starting with clearing the CMOS. Then a firmware update. Possibly even trying a new motherboard entirely. Honestly, I never say this because it's almost never the case, despite how many people almost always default to blaming this component, but in this case, I really am leaning heavily towards the motherboard being the issue.

Even holding down a dummy heatskink by hand would have told you if the problem was/is the cpu or AIO. Heck, even the AIO for the gpu would have been fine. Now, honestly, how much did NZXT have in this video? This kinda screams "hey, you promised us a review way back".

Wh... wh... what was that?! Man, we NEED to know what caused that behavior! 😒

My GTX 1070 with Arctic Accelero Xtreme 3 was bent like that as well, especially the die area had a bulge in the middle on the back, but it worked just fine.

This may sound weird but reinstall windows.

This is why I set the power manually in the BIOS and avoid auto 💀

Get a FLEXIBLE SCREWDRIVER SHAFT. Awesome tool for tight spacers.

Wait, does the system reduce clock speeds to avoid high temperatures when you're just sitting in BIOS? I thought you needed to be in Windows for that. Granted, the temps should still not be that high, but I sometimes notice higher temps in BIOS than in Windows. Addendum: your temperature problems were clearly caused by gremlins. You will need to hire spell-casting leprechauns to fix the problem.

I figured you'd have a top-end system, like a 3990WX or even a 7990WX.

To me, it seems like a motherboard issue with probably malfunctioning power profile. Try checking power consumptions when in bios.

you can fix that warped mesh filter with iron set on synthetic..

Lol! You are the first person I see to open AiO to check it rather than put some other cooler and test with it instead.

Love the update on Kryosheet.

@15:12 Right on 🤜🤛🏾 Makes me wonder if any silicone hydraulic oil could be used with pads that didn't come with it 🤔

If the air runs the way i think then you are restricting the AIO airflow. If you are blowing air out of the top you should remove that filter completely. Btw, looking forward to the new kryosheets with oil. Im using those everywhere and i really like KryoSheet.

Buil yourself a Sapphire Rapids system.

Nice to know the oil will be included in future batches of Kryosheet

Only "120 watts" in idle shouldn't make it get to 100*c on an AIO like that. That sounds like significantly more wattage. So there's probably something else going on too, giving you wrong power readings. I would bet the motherboard is going bad.

I would troubleshoot the CPU in a good motherboard. The motherboard might have a short that could be found with a thermal camera and multimeter.

I have a Threadripper 3960x and I'm having random shutdowns also. I thought at first it was due to gaming, but then it happened while idle.

I dont know what is actually wrong, however I also has a strange issue with a 5950x and it crashed windows after some time with a ACPI error. I think this case is probably very similar, the power regulator in the soc io die being broken.

My instinct for this would be a short circuit, but why the PU is still running with that is odd, Might be on an Unused USB channel or something so not directly impacting the processor

its the AIO i had the exact same issue with a corsair aio years back with a fx 9950 i swapped the aio and reset the bios to defaults and it fixed the issue

110w idle but still going to 90c, and the radiator throwing so much heat that the dust filter got so warped... Something is miss reporting its watts consumption, its hella more than 110w and the cpu is cooking itself,its very interesting how it is still working with such damage Maybe the motherboard is feeding the cpu way too much juice because of the miss reporting by the cpu or the motherboard itself has gone haywire, you might have to prove it with a voltmeter and check power to the wall as well, i hope you find the culprit

Something is really wrong if the 360 AIO on 120W package power still hits 102.5 C. I'm on air cooling (NH-U12A), and on a package power of 173W, I hit 80.8 C. Ambient air is 18 C where I am though, so maybe it is really hot over there.

I love the pro art parts if they weren't so expensive

Man, AIO'S give me nightmares. I struggled with one for like 2 years with temps all over the place (mid to awful - never good), even getting new ones (rma'ing them). I gave up in the end and went back to air cooling (a PA) and no more problems. Never using AIO's again.

I was hoping for interesting information about the CPU failure but instead, it`s a build video?: (I'm really looking forward to the next part.

I was lucky to be able to get the 2950X when the next generation of Threadrippers was released, but now it's that much faster than my gaming PC CPU, the 5600X 😄 I still want a Threadripper for the other PC cause of the PCIe lanes for capture cards and stuff.