Something VERY STRANGE about this sword! | United Cutlery Honshu Single-Handed Broadsword REVIEW 

@@alexandergreene461 Omg man im like a drug addict waiting for the next shot Lets kidnap jazza and force shad to write 10 more books The only bad thing is shad would be just happy that theres noone stepping on his arrows 😂

Ok im sold I’ll look em up

I really need to get one of Shad's books, been watching his content for a year.

“George rr Martin level of storytelling” so lots of flaccid phallus’?

@@Louzahsol all of it

XD

I'm having the opposite problem with my wife.

He hasn't properly bonded his shardblade yet. Once he does, he will summon it in 10 heart beats. Maybe even 7 due to his incredible love of swords.

"Be disrespectfull to the Blade, and she would likely never get out from the sheath" Cut to Shad bashing it against hard wood

That, or Shad forgot to add the Honor Coating that is sold separately. That is how they get you.

If it's freshly sharpened you can get the plus1 to damage

In DND it would, but in Pathfinder it's only to attack.

I'd say a +2 maybe ?

@@evilbluekoala626 only play 1st and 2nd edition DnD 3rd was rubbish 4th massive with no benefit and 5th not bother looking at it yet as 2nd works just fine

Given it’s almost 1.5x the weight of a typical arming or even long sword but is balanced just perfectly, I’d say ye.

That's so awesome to hear

Crenellation. Did I use that right?

That's a very cool class.

I'd agree with more so. You can handle a weapon slightly out of your strength range if it's well balanced.

Then it wasn't a very good replica in my view.

@@The-Anathema It wasn't an accurate replica. As for bad...well it wasn't horrible but it was an entry level replica in the $250 range; it was still within the historic weight range. But my point isn't weather the replica was good or bad but to demonstrate how mass distribution can greatly effect the feel of a sword.

This is fair, but yes the higher on the blade the balance sits the closer you get to an axe or mace in terms of handling, even a very light axe is pretty awkward to handle compared to a sword or even a machete (and the machete is also blade-heavy, just less extremely so than an axe)

@@The-Anathema certainly true. I've been collecting replica swords since 1995 & unfortunately in the European sword market entry level swords have more often than not been crowbars compaired to historic swords. Of course with the rise of HEMA & a greater demand for better balance, weight fit/finish & overall quality in even entry level swords this has changed somewhat; especially in some newer brands. But before 2000 most European swords that were "functional" were made more for reenactment, stage combat & looking decent as not nearly as many people buying were actually using them to cut; so a poorly balanced sword was far less important to many consumers than accuracy especially at a low price. HEMA has really helped change the market's focus. Compair that to the Japanese katana replica market where well made, well balanced katana have been available for decades. Even now a decent entry European sword by Windlass (although they are still often hit or miss), Balaur Arms, Ronin Katana Euro line, etc is often $300-$350. Where with Japanese swords you can get a katana from many Chinese makers in the $150 or so price range that are often as good or better in quality than the intro Euro swords. Apart from wall hangers the bottom of the barrel Euro maker is Deepeeka. They make a lot of insanely heavy & poorly assembled stuff in EN45 steel which I believe is roughly like 1045. They often sell for $150-$300. But there are many Japanese swords in the $60 or so price range in 1045 that while certainly not outstanding are decent & functional. I got an Onikiri off a site that had slight rust on the blade. It was on sale for $1 ($35 shipping however 😂) but still it normally was $65 +shipping. It's on the heavier side of historic katana but not horrible in weight or balance. It has real ray skin on the hilt & overall is far better than any Deepeeka I've ever owned or seen by a good bit! Maybe in a few years we will get some better low end Euro things but who knows. As for the replica I mentioned that I compaired to the original... Well I saw them in 2002 but the replica was made between 1992-1997 IIRC as that's when it was available. For that time & price it wasn't the worst I've ever seen, but yes it would certainly not be considered good, just meh, in today's market.

@@sihilius eh, by Shad's own admission, it's dealing undue damage to the blade. Take the joke for what it was.

It's destructive testing or abusive testing, which is different from just generally abusing the sword

Funny for the joke, but wrong for the facts. Not that difficult.

The difference is that one is for dramatic effect and to make a character seem badass, the other is an intentional attempt to stress test the blade and edge.

@@Slender_Man_186 you're not the first person to completely miss the joke...

I have to read it then. I have an audible subscription and have been looking for new books to try.

It took me three seconds. First second, I was confused. Second thought was poking my eye. Then it hit me like a load... of bricks.

Yeah, i should spend less time on sword seller's websites as well. My eyesight is weakening already.😂

What

And get hairy palms 🤭❤️

Hahaha thanks, though that freeze frame has so much potential 🤣🤣🤣

I think he was just referring to the precision, but glad you made the informative comment.

I mean i wouldn't really call this a repro. I'd rather call it a modern version of a medieval sword, so I'd be surprised and a little disappointed if those fullers weren't nearly perfect.

@@sihilius I wasn't saying they shouldn't be "perfect", I was saying that they should follow the taper of the blade. I believe they'll have uniform cast "presses" (sorry I'm completely forgetting the right terms) for different fuller styles that they can use on whatever blade they like, but when they have anything more than a single fuller, they have to keep the multiple fullers entirely parallel so you can move the press up the blade. Though tbf, a very similar issue can be seen with single fuller blades when they've kept the fuller depth uniform along the whole length of the blade. It's just most pronounced with multiple long fullers. I don't know enough about how they did it historically, but it was certainly a more time-intensive method that's been streamlined in the modern day

@@tommeakin1732 Sorry, I've misunderstood your point about the fullers. Indeed i do think that they look better, if they are following the blades taper as well. My guess about the modern way of making a fuller in a mass production context would be that they just mill or grind those fullers in using a computer controlled machine, as the look of the fullers on my honshu war sword is very reminiscent of how the fullers on another sword of mine, but way more perfect and for the other sword i know for a fact, that the fullers were ground in and also that's probably the cheapest way to get a good looking fuller into a mass produced blade. Having done a tiny bit of blacksmithing myself (mostly knives and other small stuff), my guess about the historical method would be that the either hammered those fullers into the hot metal using a punch like tool, refining them afterwards with some stones and other grinding media, or that, mostly in later periods, they just ground them in using a water or foot powered grinding stone or something similar.

@@sihilius No worries! I've seen modern smiths using a uniform "casting" to press the fullers into the blade while the blade is still malleable, but tbf, I don't know how standard that is across different smiths and companies. Thanks for your thoughts there! I was imagining that they might have punched the fullers in and then touched it up, as grinding alone sounds pretty insane for the tech of the time

Of course! [It is a +1 Magical Sentient Sword] -> The scabbard is tight on porpouse in order to prevent the sword from propeling itself out of it in a moment of anger against their wielder.

and here i was thinking bees wax would do it

Why not just hit it with a super fine belt sander or Dremel?

120 grit sand paper as well.

@@jlogan2228 Beat me to it. Could probably clean up the look with a heat gun, but if rather have more geip.

If you dont care abt looks you can also get some tennis racket tape then use a hair dryer or heat gun to secure it for added cushion

@@jlogan2228 I used hockey grip tape on my weights; that'd probably work pretty good too.

Thanks for letting me know, and thanks for looking up the videos so you don't miss out.

An interesting detail here is that the notification works for me. If it's any indication, I live in Indonesia, so it could be a country thing?? I usually get recommended videos from channels I've watched recently. There would be random things here and there, but they're rare to my knowledge. I actually got recommended some of Shad's videos before. But it's certainly weird that other people are having issues still, though this isn't exactly a new problem that's happening. Just thought I'd give my perspective.

13:13

Basically what it was. Kinda like a mix of a cinquedea and a normal medieval broadsword.

@@shadiversity Exactly!! Love the video, Sir Shad. Hope you're doing well!! 👍

There's a reason for that

Also check out its resemblance to the Broadsword in the dark souls trilogy and Elden ring

Can't be worse than my falchion. Its point of balance is 19.5cm away from the guard on a blade length of 63cm. And this thing is supposed to be one handed. Hence I'm planning to trim the blade to a historically accurate thickness before sharpening.

It is a +1 Magical Sword. Its "effective inertial mass" (only while it is in movement relative to the center of mass of their wielder) is lower than its own passive "gravity mass at rest". This means the moment it stops advancing (because an object like a shield, sword, armor or flesh is interposing), it suddendly regains that difference, adding it as an "extra oomph" in that vector of deceleration [increasing effective penetration power].

@@adolfodef And we've found the Spanish trained swordsman.

@@clothar23 Nobody ever expects a spanish -Inquisitor- Lore Analyst. ... -> I am actually from Argentina.

It would if the Blade wasn't so flexible, you want a more rigid Blade for Thrusting

@@jaydenlobbe7911 Precisely. -> Shad did NOT attuned to the +1 Magical Sword. When it is attuned (plus not actively fighting against their wielder´s desires because of moral/alignment issues); the sword is rigid like quartz crystal... yet can also absorb the vibrations from impacts like a feather mattress.

KoA is a reseller last I looked. What brand sword are you talking about ?

That's awesome. My favourite Original Character uses an arming sword.

@@dwwolf4636 Oh sorry, It's kingston arms.

Lucky duck. I crash my bar style guard into my freakin skull. THAT'LL wake you up!

@@michaelcherokee8906 ow

witcher silver swords go brrrrr

That's because the sword is based on the exact design of Boromir's sword. Down to the pommel, the hilt, and even the blade itself.

Personally, I feel a distal tapered would make it worse. It already flexes in the thrust alot, adding a distal taper would make that flex too great to be useful, and would increase the risk of bending from mild resistance or deflection. Additionally, it mixes cut and thrust reasonably well, but is fairly light on the cut as is. A distal taper would make it ineffective in the cut as well, rendering it useless and generally a bad sword.

If it had distal taper, the point of balance would shift into the handle, which would result in that blad being a very bad cutter and cutting is a very essential function of a arming or in this case a bastard sword..

I think taking away some material from the guard and pommel and brining the pob to about 3 to 4 inches and getting the weight below 3lb would make this 10/10

A broadsword I love the cutting power it feels like a messer but 2 edge

@@Local_commentor Erm... what? A Broadsword like a double edge Messer? I'm not sure what you mean. I mean, I own a Basket Hilt Broadsword and three different sized Messers. And my Broadsword feels NOTHING like any of the Messers. If you mean some other type of sword, then its not a Broadsword. Dnd and many video games wrongly use the term Broadsword for Arming Swords and sometimes even for Bastard Swords. Do you mean one of those? Even if you do mean one of those. I'm not seeing how it would feel like a Messer. They feel VERY different from other swords due to their knife hilt construction.

@@RainMakeR_Workshop no like a messer has some REALLY GOOD cutting power AND I tried this broadsword and it cuts like one I meant to say this thing is LIKE A MESSER BUT HAS 2 edges

@@Local_commentor Oooh, hang on, I'm following you now. You mean specifically the sword in this video. Its been a year so I forgot that for some daft reason United Cutlery called that Bastard Sword a "Broadsword". Yeah, the profile of a type XIV sword does make it a beast of a cutter. The type XVII and XVIIIc are beastly cutters too. But they are incredibly similar.

@@RainMakeR_Workshop I have a bigger version of this one (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vuz91IMS4xU.htmlsi=aybbUb9lQt9UGg_L) it but cut though a wet tatami mat with a broomstick in the middle like nothing

The Australian version of the ATF would probably be showing up to the shadlands to ask why a sword guy is buying ballistic gel.

Honshu is a great budget name brand, I have kukri, Chinese war sword and a short katana.

It's not meant to be sharp, by design the weight supplements the cutting power, using sharp with weight makes edge more prone to chipping and rolling.

@@stonefox9124 Hot Take “A sword isn’t meant to be sharp” lol that’s a good one. All swords benefit from being sharper. This sword is obviously designed to be a chopper. You know what helps with chopping? The only time you don’t need a sword to be sharp is if it’s designed solely for thrusting like an Estoc or rapier (which could still benefits from having a sharp cutting edge).

The screws really aren't the issue. The Japanese are doing something similar with the katana, where they put a bamboo/wooden pin through the hilt and the tang. The real issue is how UC likes to transition the Blade into the Tang. They make the really nooby mistake of just doing a sharp 90° angle instead of a smooth rounded transition. This means, if you hit something hard, all the force is focused into one tiny spot, which can cause micro fractures. With 1065 this CAN go well, but you should really stay away from their D2 blades, as D2 is way to difficult to get right for a large mass production blade anyways. Add that tang issue and you've got a recipe for guarantied disaster.

@@sihilius ohhhhh ok that’s very interesting thx for the info!

The tang should be good to go. The temper is such a durable one that the screw holes won't reduce its durability to a level you can overcome with standard human strength.

considering his health issues, forging is likely out of reach for him.

I mean he has access to his dad's forge, in his old video about making a heater shield, he made the handle and hook himself

We need to stop making this association with the point of balance being closer to the hand as resulting in a "better sword". A good tool is defined by what you want from it, and we know that historically, some people wanted, and got a sword that would cut with serious authority for it's length, and one effective way of achieving that is moving the point of balance further from the hand. I'm not saying any qualities can be good, but I think us modern nerds are perhaps unnecessarily restricting what classes as a "good sword" because we can ignore many of the realities and real-world considerations that people face when they're actually needing to seriously fight with the weapon. If you want to be able to reliably cut through dense fabric armours, cut through the soft tissue of the arm, and perhaps cause cracking of bone - you might want a four of five inch centre of mass on your arming sword

@@tommeakin1732 Very true, it really comes down to personal preference. Not saying moving the balance would make it a "better sword" or more effective, just saying it could make it feel lighter in the hand even though you made it heavier. Whether you want that in your sword or not is subjective.

@@nydabeats In the context I interpreted "Balance is everything" as meaning a point of balance closer to the hand would be superior. I might have misinterpreted ^^