@@angryasianfab man t for filming and being so detailed, open and direct about what your doing... Bro you are the man! I hope your channel grows and you get to start getting free bshit to review and get paid!! But if you do!!.. please... Keep the video quality and the style and your manner and way of going about it to exact same... Because your way of filming is so effective and you are such a cool and real guy... It makes watching your videos a pleasure and funny and fun... Feels like hanging out, working on cool shit with my now.. sadly.. deceased best friend... Thank you for that sort of.. experience. I know that's kinda weird. But it's a great thing for me. Thanks brother!
@@VanXHydrA That's my schtick, I talk to you like a real man, complete with cussing, calling out dumb shit, and acknowledging my mistakes. Thanks for watching.
Dude you get my circuitry itching going with all your projects, enjoyed the video can't wait too see how long it last with the upgrades, I have an FMA eliminator and IR designator that runs pretty well for a airsoft gear. I just wish we had a home grown company making good civilian night vision gear that wasn't trying to screw people and our military
Hell yea, saved for later. I got a potted red vis about 2 months ago, only 200rds or so through it so far but no issues yet. Edit: Got a chance to skim through the beginning and kicked back for the disassembly/mods. Really nice work on the dissection. So many threads discussing the guts with a few sporadic pics but you take the cake on being so thorough. Same with the attempted illuminator mod. People discuss it, never any results. Also gotta say I love the milk carton diffuser. I took an ebay gamble on a PEQ-2 diffuser with what is a nicely printed sleeve that slips over the SG illum knob and it works well for $32 but its no better than your DIY one.
thanks for this man. my Feb2023 UHP just broke the other week. it fell off the bench while on my 22lr upper and the mount cracked. thankfully i was at least able to snap it back in place lmfaooo... Somo sent me some empty cases and now i have to put it back together
Just got a wadsn ogl (eotwch clone greeb laser woth ir laser and white light) with a soaltac kiji ir gonna testbzero on 308 and 5.56 zero will be 25-35 yards and on paper rapid fireing ...ill let you guys know
A quick suggestion on the battery positive lead: unsolder the wire from the board and use a larger and longer gauge wire to make multiple passes around the battery case.
My concern with this is the case halves are used to make contact with the wire to the battery compartment. Too many passes or a thicker gauge may interfere with the case sealing up completely.
I have already modified one unit this week You need to take that apart again And put a quarter inch coat of j b weld on the bottom base Completely surrounding and in capsulating the springs That will secure that thing and it will not move again nor Crack
After using Right Stuff to put it back together I doubt I can open it again without breaking it. Either way I'm not too worried about it, in PT2 you can see mine held zero to about 700rds and had no issues hitting targets at 100yard and getting rezerod, I don't think the "upgrades" are necessary unless you have a reason to open the case in the first place.
They just started making them with what they claim is the same material as the real peq 15. The new versions have a serial number that starts with an 8. It would be interesting to see if you can tell a difference between them.
MAN TY FOR DOING THIS!!! I AKMOST OURCHASED ONE JUST KAST WEEK AND HESITATED! DAMN... THEY HAD EM IN STOCK TO! but it's worth the wait to me... Because you just Angry-Asian-Upgraded my knowledge and ability to know wtf I'ma get! Thanks my friend! You are the fucking MAN!
I would like to give you sincere accolades for honestly presenting the results of the modifications. You have earned my vote of confidence, I mean that - random stranger on the Internet.
I got the FMA version with full power, both IR laser and light. Held zero so far, except the battery needed to be stuffed with something to prevent the power from cutting off during shots (556) I use a small magnet. So far so good.
@@Ravencof i bought a small round magnet usually used for fridge stuff, i put on the nipple of the battery (positive). It eliminate the flickering during fire.
@@angryasianfab I'll wait for the video before buying one myself also. I did the email for it being available but I guess it didn't go through so I missed it anyways
Nice work. I did something very similar to mine. I would add that the only real issue I’ve come up against thus far with the unit as a whole is the Insight plug lock up. The pressure pad would cut out after a few rounds as the plug backed out. Solution: Teflon tape wrapped around the plug a couple of times and then the connections cut out with an exacto. Works fine now.
I fixed that with a Modlite Unity switch. It has the Cobra on one cable, and the Surefire on the other. After watching this video, I will probably get the diffuser caps. Oh, my PEQ is the newest one, at only about a month old, and has held zero for about 800 rounds so far. I'm waiting for the NGAL to come out to add to my other AR's.
Hey man thanks for the video. I really need some help. The screws all over this thing are total crap. Do you happen to know the thread sizes or anywhere I can buy replacement screws? Like the 3 case screwes on the bottom and the 3 front screws. I know you worked around
I had to go to a fastener store like Fastenal to find replacements. Grainger and Mcmaster Carr may be other places to check. Sorry I don't remember the thread size.
@@angryasianfab thanks for the fast reply. I was able to salvage a couple of them to atleast have a reference. I'll probably just buy a few different kinds and see what works. Thanks
Hello and thank you !great content .. Fukin great humor 😂and thank you for your undying service to our country !!! : question: would you solder that tiny pcb ground wire (?)to battery tube ?
No, because the pressure from the 2 halves of the case closing on that wire is what keeps it there. I worry any bit of solder would prevent the case from closing fully.
I backorded from Paragon (4-6week estimated lead time) I received tracking info in 3weeks. The crazy part is when my item shipped from Paragon, they overnighted my uhp. 😮😮😮
Would you consider to do them again to other Somogear LAMs to offer an upgrade package for those wanting to fork over some cash to have extra peace of mind?
Awesome video, I watched the whole thing! Looking forward to the torture test to see how it holds up with your extra potting. You should offer This potting service for the somogear on your website! I’d send mine it to have it done! I could def do it myself after watching your video but now that you’ve done it I’m sure you’d be able to crank em out not having to video/explain each step. You’re the first Chanel I’ve ever subscribed to, I like that you speak in real world lingo and don’t upsell shit for clout. Good shit buddy, keep it up!
Thanks man! I've had several requests to do the "upgrades", but the last one I did opening up the case was a huge PITA and had me questioning if I wanted to do this anymore lol. Trying to do this youtube shit in between 3 jobs so I don't have much free time, but I hope I'll have the torture test video up next week.
@@angryasianfab Just saw your response on doing the upgrades as a service. If you ever change your mind, or train someone else to do it for you, let us know! I’d totally fork out some bucks to have a solid IR device.
FUCK!!! WHY THE FUCK DIDNT I ORDER ONE THE OTHER WEEK WHEN THEY HAD EM IN STOCK AVAIN!!! DAMNIT! LOL. THANKS FOR THIS FANTASTIC VIDEO ANGER-ASIAN! I LOVE YOU MAN! I WISH YOU LIVED IN ASHEVILLE NC, OR I LIVED IN WASHINGTON... Cause Van is a lonely Honkey 😢 and I gots no friends to go exploring abandoned shit and shoot guns and have all sorts of semi/quasi/ninja Night vision adventure fun with! ... Man seriously, I love your videos , you killed this review... And in so excited to see what you do to it to upgrade a d harden it to abuse... Also, I love me a good vertical grip to!! I'm thinking about buying one of those US marine , exoencive ones that have the little bipod that pops out of it when you hit a button. Ever handled one of those? If you have, what did you think about it's overall utility? Worth having? Or dumb/it can fuck you up in the shit type of gear?
( as in exploring abandoned factories and using NV not to get noticed because I didn't see a " no trespassing" sign.... Did you? And hell... My dumbass is illigitimate? .. I mean.. uh.. illiterate anyways!"
Thanks for the love homey. I'm actually born and raised in Richmond VA, but the Army brought me out to WA years ago. I'm not a fan of the "Grip Pods" I remember dudes breaking them when I was serving a decade+ ago. Maybe they're better now? Personally I'd get a good fixed grip, and have separate quick disconnect bipod, that's what I run.
@@angryasianfabWHy Hellz YEAYAH! I lived way up in Harrisonburg VA, bout a hour below D.C. in 2007... and GAWDAMN... It was ful of two things.... Gawdamn Awien-UFO-Lights at night, going all drunken-willy-nilly bumbling about in the night sky, fucking off and shooting across the sky and stopping on a dime in the blink of an eye, etc etc ( no shit... saw more than i could count in a single summer.. was wild.) annnnnd.... Menonites lol. Your the man my friend! I am about to order a FULL POWER UHP unit from the SOmogear site... they have em in black housing with a green laser atm. Ima pull the proverbial trigger...aaah! Well fuck those Grip POd thingies then... I just remembered about the dumbass laws about barrel length and vert-grips anyways... You Rock on HIgh With no Otha Homey! I cant wait to see more videos! ( BTW... i just SCORED like.. 4 complete PVS-7 Housings for damn near free, and I am looking for the cheapest fucked up but still working MX10130 or anything tubes that i can find.. i am poor as shit, but i also need 43mm "FAT ALBERT... ER.. ANVIS" Style tubes that are non inverting for this old ass Gen 2+ Monocular I got... a "HiTek Super Talon" .. I got this weird tube for like $300 ( thank tha lawd!) and the housing for $150 on ebay, but now i gotta find some poor mofo with like 2-4 mx10130 tubes that still function that wants to give them to me free, or maybe like... $300-500 each depending... so i can GET RIIIIICH BIIIIAAATCH!! lol. But yeah seriously i litteraly gave $250 for 4 entire pvs-7 housing sand a couple carry bags and all sorts of other shit.. and i intend to sell them mofos... let me know if you want one my brutha, Ill give you the ultra-mega-fawktarded-dealz if you need one for a video and or to flip. Rock on my friend!
just got the somogear delta model, got a surplus tape switch , some of those shape caps with the triangle and the square etc and replaced the black plug in the diffuser with a piece of nail polish remover bottle plastic , almost the same thickness as the black plastic plug and seems to work *at least I can see IR showing in iphone camera)
Great video. Very informative. I’m waiting to see what upgrades they will do to these before purchasing. I’m hoping they will do something to address the durability.
The illuminator bottoms out on the o-ring, not the bottom of the threads. Just checked on mine but broke 2 of the tiny screw heads off due to a ridiculous amount of lock tight. Had to heat the tiny bastards up to get them out. Your better off putting a spacer (like a washer or 3d printed ring on the outside of the housing, between the housing and the (for lack of terminology, rotational telescoping exterior adjuster majig) to move the entire unit further out
I also ordered one from paragon, just waiting for it to ship! Should be getting to the end of the lead time in a week or 2. How long did it take you to get yours?
Angry - That was a great video, thanks for all that. I've got a potted and non-potted version back in Oct/Nov 2022 right between when they began marketing the potted versions. Time to get serious at putting them to real-world use. This has been a great guide in the event Somogear won't replace, but from what I've been reading is their customer service has been outstanding in most cases. Just don't mention "Real-Steel" use. Loved seeing what was on the inside. I too spent $40 bucks on a real L3 illumination cap... crap! Excellent video!
@@dsbiddlepotted is when they use a coating over the board to "secure" the circuit board... Typically for recoil...or waterproofing.... 🫡 unpotted is 100% for airsoft only. But for 10$ why not just pot it 😉
Did they/you manage to solve the issue that changing the focus of the illuminator also changes it's zero? Also, I used a semi transparent tape for a home made diffuser and it works really good.
@angryasianfab The illuminator zero is problematic on my unit, and I understood ìt is a global issue. I zeroed the illuminator so the pointer is in its center on the widest setting, but when narrowing it down it shifts so the pointer is no longer inside the illumination circle. I bypass it by deciding the widest is still narrow so when I want a wide setting I'm using the diffuser and if I want to look far I am taking the diffuser off, buy would be nice to be able to change the illuminator focus without losing zero.
Thanks for watching. Not yet, it's 50% done. Waiting for the days to get shorter so I can film NV shooting without pissing off the neighbors. Another month I hope.
Great video. Answered ever question that ive had about this product and more. Do you happen to know if the $10 potting add on from somo gear covers all the potting process you did in this video? Thanks!
The one in this video is the potted version, you can see the clear epoxy before I cover it in liquid tape. I just went the extra mile and potted everything including the plug-in connectors
Awesome review! Really like the format of your videos as well. By any chance would you be interested in reviewing a digital night vision monocular called the NVG10? Will email you about it as well.
Been loving your channel. Its inspired me to dig deep and get some NV at bargain prices. Good shit man, thank you. I've heard of a few down sides with these Somogears, seems the turrets on some units are to weak to hold zero, but Somogear rapidly makes improvements to these, so that might not even be an issue at all before to long. I've heard many say the way the electronics and circuitry are assembled is simpler and more robust, than many "duty grade" LAMs.
I was impressed when I dissected it, and noticed several upgrades Somogear had done compared to older units I've seen. It's hard to hate on an HK company when they make a decent product and actually listen to their customers, unlike many US manufacturers.
Actually ...ill give you a gen 2.0 before it Even gets off the ground... The 45 degree face and body has all kinds of beef and depth .. Forget the screw head for anchor point . Drill a hole 3/16" in depth ...into that face at dead center ... Make sure bore diameter is spring od Plus .002" and drop that new improved longer and atronger spring in place Without the lil plunger thats on the original... Id improve attach point at cover ....as well .. I see DHL just notified me my 2 units have arrived state side .. So ill be doing this asap . Document it fully ....
They just got a batch. Sign up for their notification, and you'll be notified. I just waited a month or so, and am finally getting one. Excited to see how well it works. If it's good enough, I'll definitely be on the lookout for another
Im looking at the springs ....holy shit are they garbage 🗑.... Weak as fuk ...and the anchor points at the polymer bodies at the picatinny mounting channel suck beyond belief. There isnt much material to work with here so this is an area where this needs to be redesigned at the manufacture of these bodies internally ... These anchor points should be solid polymer ...or aluminum body best ..😊 And again bored out at matching 45 degree angles to drop in our stiff springs ...this will match the 45 degree face of laser struts and springs will maintain constant anchoring pressure on strut axis ...under the worst conditions....unaffected . But currently these anchor points at body are absolute garbage and not acceptable .. Springs are the worst quality available May as well be a paper clip ....
For future reference or anyone interested: next time just use a left hand drill bit and definitely dont use an endmill bit (unless you are going to be using a drill press or an actual mill to do it). A left hand bit would allow you to stay straight to prevent damaging your outer area where as an endmill is not designed to be used in a hand drill and completely impossible to use a endmill bit without it trying to jump on you and destroy the surrounding area. The left hand bit once it barely starts to bite into the screw would just zip the screw out because its rotation is counterclockwise and would loosen it instead of drilling the head out. Hope this helps.
If you have read all of the above crap and still here wanting more: When using a hand file never go back and fourth. Only file away from you. File only cuts in one direction and when you go back and forth you are not doing much because your dulling your cutting tips on the file. Push it away from you, lift repeat.
Id also remove screws at laser body housing to front of body housing and apply permanent thread locker for polymer ...super glue etc... Then red thread locker to 2 screws at strut to laser attachment point .. These are all points of failure for holding zero..
just found your channel, and this video absolutely earned a new sub. Ive been wanting a ir laser, but the sticker price on name brand gear is ridiculous, and the offbrand stuff is very hit or miss so I plan to build me own. Your tear down has definitely given me a lot more to work with, so thank you very much!!
No one is getting more impatient than me! The days are still long here in WA, another month and I'll be able to get some good NV shooting in without pissing off the neighbors. 50% of the video is done with zeroing instructions and day/visible laser shooting. It'll be worth the wait...
I'd certainly recommend people buy the ngal with the aluminum bodies.. It's a royal pain in the ass to properly modify these units ...investing time and effort only to have the shitty polymer body split ...or mounting hardware to Crack body etc... Potting and making this face mod at struts is all you'll need to do to make these perform like the originals ...
What would you charge to do this for someone ? I think I could do it if I really set my mind to it, I'm relatively mechanically inclined and I'm extremely OCD. But I do not have the time.
Of course all of this is assuming the laser is secure at the front in the housing and body ...?? 😅 yano what assuming will get you.. I'm sure there's plenty of room for improving that ...even if it's just filling it with silicone and hoping that doesn't hold heat ...preventing dissipation ?
(Your message section on your site is bugging out for me) I know RU-vid isn't the best place to ask about restock but out of curiosity, when do you plan on restocking "AANV PVS-14 Night Optic Device 006 - Green Phosphor (New)"? If you know when or have an estimate it comes back in stock please let me know! By the way I really like your night vision project videos. I've figured it would be unwise for me to put all my money into the real stuff when I could just modify the clones to work at the same level for much cheaper. Can't wait to see you use this PEQ15 at the range!
So I don't "restock" 14s, the ones on the site are already sold, I just keep the items up so people can see what my price ranges are and what tube quality looks like respectively. 009 is the latest brand new unit ready to go. After that one sells I got a cheaper one with blem tube that will go up, then a few more brand new units. Thanks for message, gonna get a little bit of range time in this Sunday (finally).
BTW 006 and 009 units are the exact same batch of intensifiers. 009 is priced a little cheaper because of the tiny pepper blems. If you're looking for a more "flawless" one I should have one in a month.
After looking the open layout a bit more .it's obvious the weakest link in these units with regards to holding zero Are the 2 constant pressure springs that maintain hold resistance to both axis....from its contact on the backside of the strut attached to each laser body . This surface of contact is an open 45 degree angle face... The spring contact and applied pressure at this face and angle is responsible for solely locking both axis in its desired position by applied and maintained pressure .. I see the problem .. We need to secure the contact point at this 45 degree face .. Remove each of these from the laser body by removing the 2 screws at each back .. Replace springs with a stout stronger spring and drill and tap a small screw into the 45 degree face at dead center This will allow a secure locking point that spring body will ride over the round Screw head ...spring pressure will remain constant and in place over both axis.... Care must be taken to seat each spring body over this locking point during assembly cover ...use your dental pick That will most assuredly create a zero shift zero on both axis even shock proof ... I'll do this and document it when mine arrive .. Also have an ngal on the way I'll do that as well .. I'm a machinist and engineer .. This will be easy ...
@@angryasianfabWith mine the lasers were swapped(ir was where the vis was and vice versa) compared to the real Peq15. No big deal, was still able to get a good parallel zero dialed in. Is your unit the same?
great video, you have given me a reason to consider getting a somo laser, the only thing Im concerned about is whether it will hold zero, also, where did you get the stickers for the laser warnings? In P2 two please use the homemade diffuser cap pointed downrange, I am curious to see how far it travels.
The stickers came with the unit, mine actually came with both black and tan. PT2 is 50% done, zero & day laser test recorded, just have to finish the NV portion, 300+rds in, holding zero to 100y easy. Soon my friend....
@@angryasianfab i was bummed to see the triming of the illuminator lense didn't widen the pattern. It's hard to see in your videos but are there petri dish like splotches in the illuminator pattern? Or is it clean like in a D2 led based illuminator?
@@Rockstar6111 that notch is the pulse/program function. I dont use it personally, the paper instructions should tell you how to program it if desired.
You didnt pot and secure wire connections at laser back through laser body port ... These need to be secured just as much as lead at battery body groove..
It's a Libertarian Party of Washington shirt. If you're interested in one shoot me an e-mail at angryasianfab@proton.me I have them in black and yellow, most sizes.
