You're nothing short of a genius. This has been bugging me as well. I have these unique ceiling fans that use 303mhz RF which is near impossible to control without a custom solution. Another project that I've had queued up is installing some additional lighting. I looked up the Zemismart down lights that you mentioned and am stoked! I'm going to the ifan03 setup and the Zemismart down lights. Thank you very much. Your videos are always so helpful and descriptive.
Travis, I didn't have a need the Ifan but always enjoy your videos. Yet again you taught me something new and I download the "Tasmotizer" program. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I hadn't really heard of the capacitor problem on these iFan units so, thanks for that. This is very handy and useful, as usual. Happy Holidays, brother.
I really appreciate this video Travis - I have purchased these and was very disappointed when Sonoff didn't properly account for US/CAN 120v. I will be doing these with 3 fans in my house.
What are the commands needed to voice activate the various speeds and light for Google Assistant? (ie. " Assistant, turn the master fan to speed 2? " ...
Travis (aka the Indiana Jones of La.), Thanks for cracking this nut. It's been a significant challenge in the open source community to get this working "correctly" with fan speeds in the US. Your capacitor mod, along with your Tasmota rules "ninjary" (is that a word?) demonstrate what's possible. Well done! P. S., I (well, with perhaps some personal bias) like the featuring at the end of your videos of the various projects from the members of the community that you have nurtured, encouraged, helped, and built on in your Discord channel. 👏😁
Now if only the manufacturers would make an ESP8266 based 1 gang wide switch like this with the 2 caps ranged for 120v fans, they couldn't keep them on the shelf!
I have this fan switch and I'm having a problem getting it to work because my ceiling fan has one power wire for the fan and the light is there any unit that will be able to allow this to work or do I need to get a fan with a light and fan wire separate?
Nice video, Congrats! I'm getting a Sonnof iFan04 110V 50/60Hz. Is it possible to control the 3 fan speeds in the Sonoff App without having to change the capacitors?
Great video on changing the capacitors! I'm having a heck of a time to get the configuration correct into home assistant. I'm not using any dimmers. Just a smart LED bulb in the fan. I have successfully flashed Tasmota on the device and the controls are working as expected. MQTT Autodiscovery does not properly define the FanSpeed relay buttons and I'm struggling for the best method to add this controller into home assistant. The old template I used for my first fan controller I did years ago was put into my configuration.yaml has been depreciated since they changed the speeds from High, Med, Low to percentages and I've found very little documentation. Since then, I've split up my configuration and added a fan.yaml to play with. It just isn't working
@@digiblurDIY Yes I got that far, but having a heck of a time getting Alexa to understand how to control the fan speeds. Annoying that she keeps telling me "I don't know how to do that" . I did go back and comment out old yaml entries for the device but "she" also tells me there are multiple devices with the same name even after re-running discovery. My wife is OK with Alexa but will not touch the app or use her phone to control anything.
Question on the 2 5uf caps. Did you manage to put the case back after soldering? I changed my caps for my patio fans a 2 months ago and i just slap that damn thing in without the top portion of the case. It's working though and the fans are sealed and they are outdoor rated so hopefully they last long.
In addition to my previous comment... I figured I'd just swap out my old single-capacitor fan with a new one I have in a box in my garage. Checked the guts and it has a 5-wire cap that reads 6.5uF, 6.5uF and 5uF as opposed to the relay you had the read all 5uF. The FAQ for the iFan03 says this: "the 1-gear (2.5μF) output current is 113mA (120V/60Hz) or 173mA(220V/50Hz); the 2-gear (2.5μF + 3μF) output current is 249mA(120V/60Hz ) or 456mA(220V/50Hz). the 3-gear act as the same performance as original." Looking at the schematics for the iFan02, I tried to get an understanding of what switch 3 (or 3-gear, as they put it) was and how to interpret their comment about fan speeds from the website. It if I'm understanding correctly, your installation would amount to 1-gear being 5uF, 2-gear being 5uF + 5uF and the 3-gear being no capacitors at all. Furthermore, what do you do with all of the wiring in the lighting dome housing? Do you just cut out the existing pull-chain speed control and capacitor? Does the iFan03 incorporate the reversing switch too? It's all very confusing to me. I'm just trying to get a smart fan without burning my house down lol....
I think so, as I do get it confused at times. Or maybe it is both caps switched in for low? and one for medium? You can pull out the wiring if you want to that does the current capacitor and speeds or just leave it in and leave it on high all the time.
It really is too bad that Sonoff doesn't have a version for US fans. I haven't had too much luck finding 5uf caps that don't take 2 months to arrive. By that time, I won't be using my fan much! Great video by the way, you do an excellent job explaining these things and providing lots of info without rambling
Thanks! You can use the regular caps that came with the fan. I did that last year or so but isn't as clean. Luckily treatlife has come out with a new fan controller. www.digiblur.com/2020/07/the-tasmota-fan-controller-ive-been.html
Very impressive. I’ve been trying to convince my building & planning office to allow me to use these devices for 18 months with no progress. Did you do any of this under permit? It’s a must for me because of mandatory insurance regulations I must live with. The company has not returned ANY communications on this topic in 18 months. I’d truly appreciate knowing whether snd possibly how you handled this issue. Thank you.
digiblurDIY - Have you checked with your fire insurance company? You’re in for a surprise. No UL rating, no fire insurance. If you’re in CA, NY and an unknown number of other states and someone is injured or killed, you’re in for real fun. Check the “deck collapse cases.” You live in a fantasy world
Thank you for the video! I have a question. I did an investigation on my fan and found that it only had a 2-wire 4uF capacitor and a pull chain. Is there a possibility that there's a cap somewhere else in the fan motor housing? Or is this standard? Can I still wire the iFan03 in? If so, what kind of recommendation on the caps? Both 4uF? You seem to be one of the only people with any real info on this device.
There are usually 3 capacitors in the fans that I'm familiar with. Give it a try with stock and see what happens. You just leave the fan on high and let the iFan03 do the slowing down of things.
Very interessting and nicely done! :) Does one have to connect dimmable lights to the ifan03 or can it purely switch 0/100% (toggle) so that non dimmable LEDs work, too? I noticed with other dimmers, that they kind of "always dim", even at 100%, so the non dimmable LEDs cause problems. :(
Finally got around to getting iFan03's for the house, thanks for another great video. Is there any additional magic to be had with the remote and a sonoff RF receiver?
@@digiblurDIY Sorry, I meant any ability to utilize the remote for controlling devices other than the iFan. Specifically, in conjunction with a Sonoff RF Bridge, would it be possible to setup unused buttons on the remote to control other stuff.
Thanks for this video! Have 5 iFan installed and with your video will finally replace the capacitors. Quick question, I have Treatlife dimmers flashed with your latest Tasmota. Comparing to other dimmers I have the minimal intensity before it turns off still bright, is there a way to make the minimal dimming more dark. Thanks!!
digiblurDIY thanks for reply! Unfortunately didn’t fix the problem. Its set min and max set to 1-255, and when I move physical slider goes from 46 to 234. I wanted to get the lights more dimmed, might be a hardware limitation. :(
@@DanielNictheroy Im not familiar with your particular dimmer, but for my shelly dimmer there is a calibration routine. The documentation on the calibration routine says this is necessary because the characteristics of different lightbulbs require different ranges / control characteristics. I think that its probably a function of the type of bulb you are using. To test this, put an incandescent bulb, if dimming is okay with it then its your lightbulb, otherwise its the dimmer controller.
This seems like a good solution for people who have access to the wiring, is there a good solution for those of us that have very high ceilings, something controlled via a switch in the wall instead?
Lol I would love to purchase a ladder that size 25 foot + ceilings make that hard. Was afraid of that, not a fan of Zwave stuff but maybe worth trying out with the Conbee usb dongle
You could wire this to the wall switch instead of up at the fan if you want, but you will probably have to leave it exposed since it's unlikely to fit inside the switch box.
Hi Travis, just want to confirm my understanding: with your setup, if the WiFi goes out but you still have power, then the Martin Jerry switch would not function anymore, but you still have full control of the fan via the IFAN03 RF remote; is that correct? I wonder how the original capacitors installed on the IFAN03 would combine with the on-board capacitors if instead of negating the on-board capacitors by setting fan speed permanently to high (via the chain), you set the on-board speed to either medium or low (via chain). Have you tried this?
Right as the connection is done over WiFi but unfortunately in my household if I didn't have WiFi, I'd have larger issues than my fan not working at a switch on the wall.
You mentioned on Martin Jerry Dimmer has six inputs: Button 1 Short Press + Long Press, Button 2 Short Press + Long Press, Button 3 Short Press + Long Press. Would it be possible to place two Dimmers side by side and increase the amount of inputs by also writing a script for if the buttons on both Dimmers are pressed simultaneously, e.g. 'Dimmer 1 Button 1 Short Press + Dimmer 2 Button 3 Short Press', 'Dimmer 1 Button 2 Long Press + Dimmer 2 Button 2 Long Press'. If only combining Short Press + Short Press and Long Press + Long Press to keep the input simplified and reliable, that would create 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 = 30 inputs no?
I remember when you first posted this video, I knew this was the solution to my problem as well. I modified and tuya'd my iFan03 (without Expressions); works like a charm. I got my MJs, tuya worked like a charm there as well. Now I'm ready to hit the console and start publishing! Because I have a light kit (and because I wanted dimming and color control), I added 2 zigbee bulbs as a group in HA. Is it possible to have these MQTT commands control them? If not, is it possible to take a topic state and create a rule to then control those bulbs (on, off and dimming only)?
Pretty much like I did except you are using zigbee. Use an automation via HA or NodeRed to listen for some custom topics on the buttons and then it sends the zigbee commands.
I'm finally getting around to doing this. In the video it appears you replaced both caps with 5uF. Did that make you're medium and low speeds identical?
Another question for me here! The custom topic that you talk about LRoom/Toggle is this something you create in homeassisant separate from the MJDimmer and iFan03? Thanks for your help!
I have an EU 220V fan that spins too slow on low and medium settings of the iFan03, do I need larger or smaller capacitors to make it spin faster ? And... is there one capacitor for low, one capacitor for high and full contact without capacitor for high speed ? Is that how they are wired ? Thanks.
In my case the caps on the ifan03 are too small so the larger caps were needed to make it go the right speed. Luckily they did come out with the iFan04 for us.
So, it looks awesome, but I am wondering in the case you lose the network connection, basically don’t have Lights or Fan at all?? Just like you said, I am also want to have a backup plan!! Thanks for the video!! 😊
TheSecman61 I know, but I mean, like local wifi down, or like my case HASSio crash by the sd card, always something can happen, still have power but with out something like that fan & lights are dead (specially lights dark in night, hehehe)
That is correct, if I have don't have internet connectivity everything is fine. If I don't have any wifi signal at all well I have many more issues to worry about than my fan not working.
And side note the plan B is the remote control while your wifi is down. If you have wifi issues I would highly suggest Unifi access points. Best decision I have made in tech over the couple years I have had them.
It uses a run capacitor to setup a phase difference between the two sets of coils. By adjusting the capacitance (switching them in and out via relays) the timing is made more and less accurate causing the speed to change. Think of it of pushing someone on a swing and adjusting when you push.
Hi, I am new with using google assistant. I was able to pair eWelink to Google but the only command it understands is turning the light on and off. I cannot control the speed. When it turns on both light and fan turns on at the same time.
Like your video on IFan03 little confuse d in my case I only have 1 switch it has 2 knobs one for light on/off/dim and one for fan on/off/speed my fan does have the light kit with pull chains that we don't use. how would I change the rules for this application and where do you load the rules, I assume in tasmota but you didn't really cover that, the bin file you provide has the rules for the two switch setup so how would I change it?
After further research on my wiring I don’t think I need ifan03, tell me if you concur. My fan has a pull chain set on high speed, I have power going to box in the wall coming out of the box I have 2 power lines one to fan and one to light so my thought is to just get 2 Martin Jerry dimmers and swap out the single gang box with a double gang box, what do you think
Hi I am new to home assistant have a couple things up and running. I flashed tasmota on iFan03 with no problems got home assistant to auto discover. I have added it in Lovelace have the three speeds and the light switch but have no off button in home assistant for the fan speed. If I use the remote it will turn off if I log into the IP address of the tasmota it has all 5 buttons one for the light switch for 4 the fan 0 is off 1 2 3 speeds of the fan but home assistant didn't pick up the off button how do I add the off button in home assistant. And i have replaced both 5uF Capacitors. Thank you Rich
Thanks for the fantastic video! I recently got around to buying the stuff for this mod, but ran into a small problem. The eBay links you provided link to listings that are no longer active. I tried looking for an equivalent capacitor myself, but the ones I bought are too big physically. The voltages and capacitance is right, but the pins are too far apart and I doubt it'll fit in the case. Can you please help to provide another link for these capacitors?
@@digiblurDIY so far based on my looking I'd have to agree that they are rather hard to find. I wonder if a site like digikey would have them? I'm not very good at picking electronic components yet, they all mostly look the same to me haha
@@digiblurDIY I think I finally found them! I'm not sure what changed in my search, but for some reason my latest search brought this right up: www.aliexpress.com/i/32808846668.html If the picture is accurate they look like the exact some ones you used. I've ordered them already. Hopefully they work!
@@digiblurDIY At long last the capacitors have arrived. The are definitely the same size. Haven't installed them yet, but I can confirm that they are the same physical size as the original ones on the board!
Hi Travis, the "if" test in IFan03 Rule3 doesn't seem to work when using Tasmota 8.4 (module type set to IFan03). Tasmota documetation says to use "break" to simulate if-else statements. How did you get the "if" test to work on your setup?
Just curious the cap values in then IFan03 out of the box have two different values yet you replace them with two caps of the same value both 5uF why is that?
Because I didn't have the exact cap values my fan had in them. They were close enough and we didn't notice the speed differences. It actually sped up the medium a small bit which was actually perfect.
So none of this stuff will work out of the box? I'm really not looking to flash devices and switches. I don't really care about fan speed nor do I care if the fan and light are controlled separate. I just want a wireless switch to control my fan/light just basic on and off. My fan and light doesn't have a switch and has to be turned on with the pull strings and I just want to be able to tell Alexa to turn on fan and it comes on. Any suggestions?
Sure it will. Use the Ewelink app in the cloud and use the remote. We just do things a little differently with open source non-cloud firmware and customizations.
So, around 17:30 reminded me/confused me. You said "which is then picked up by Home Assistant". So ... here's the confusion. When you setoption19 1, I noticed that tasomta will switch the order of the topic. From "cmnd/thingyname" to "thingyname/cmnd". Why is that? You can't seem ever change it back. So, it doesn't appear you have done that. Also, what does HA have to do with this configuration? Unless you mean your MQTT server. But if your ifan03 is directly subscribed, and your switches are directly publishing, how is HA involved in this?
I didn't use SetOption19 here and this rule pushes to a custom topic as you can see. You can use a HA automation to trigger based off this topic or a NodeRed flow to do your bidding.
Also if you do change the topics around with SetOption19 you can change them back in the MQTT config section - See here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KOg5qwO3Rh4.html
@@digiblurDIY I understand that, I was just confused by you saying it went to HA when, from my limited understanding, it just got published on your broker and the ifan03 did everything "on it's own", so to speak. It made it sound like HA was a necessary part of the chain just to control it. But thanks for the answer!
@@digiblurDIY I've tried that many times, but the topic changes automatically when i use setoption19 and if you go into the device's mqtt setup and change it back, it doesn't stick. Not really a big deal but I have always been curious about that.
Travis - I was messing around with the rules trying to correct a minor problem. Now, none of the rules are firing. Power cycling didn't fix the problem. I re-flashed vanilla Tasmota 8.4, did a reset1, then power cycled, re-entered all the rules, and made sure rules are turn on. Switchmode and switchtopic are all set to 0. Rules are still not firing. Any suggestions on what I can do to restore rule functionality?
I forgot to mention in my post above that the rule problem is on the Martin Jerry switch. Actually, I think rule3 is working because I see the on/off led going from red to blue when I toggle the on/off switch. I've also verified I can publish message manually from the Tasmota console so problem is unrelated to finding the MQTT broker. Problem is that when I short pressed or long pressed the switches, the "on switchX#state=N" triggers are not firing the publish command.
I screwed up. Problem was caused by that "switch" vs. "button" issue. I keep forgetting I need to modify "switchX#stateN" to "buttonX=stateN" when I'm using vanilla Tasmota.
I'm trying to setup a Martin Jerry SD01 dimmer and iFan03 to control a ceiling fan with a light kit. I'm using Tasmota 8.4 on both devices. I configured module type to "PWM Dimmer" on the Martin Jerry. Just for initial testing, I put the following rule in the Martin Jerry in attempt to turn the light on and off on the fan using a short press of the on/off switch on the MJ: on switch1#state=2 do publish cmnd/ifan03/power1 toggle endon But the "publish" is not firing. When I published "cmnd/ifan03/power1 toggle" using an MQTT client (MQTT.fx), it worked. What's causing the publish not to fire on the MJ?
I believe that one uses buttons. And I don't think you can use so73 with it. When you get into the weird setups like this then I use the fork of Tasmota for this dimmer.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks Travis; you're right. I figured it out by pure trial and error and luck this morning. Should have just waited for your reply. Changing rule to: on button1#state=2 do publish cmnd/ifan03/power1 toggle endon worked. I sure wish there were some documentation that tells users this. I looked everywhere. Is there any way to ascertain valid tasmota-rule triggers for a given module (or template) via the Tasmota console?
Really just have to look at the template/module to see what is available to trigger off of. I am modifying my fork documentation to show the how-to on multipress with it as well as planning a live stream and/or video of doing various switches, dimmers, lights etc. Real world tricks of Tasmota.
@@digiblurDIY The Sonoff website says the IFAN03 will work with both 120V and 220V. I wonder if Itead thinks the IFAN03 is already US capacitor friendly as is.
My 5mf capacitors came today and I've installed them. I'm doing some testing with my multimeter, but getting voltage results on the fan output I don't completely understand. When the Ifan03 is plugged in, I read 120V on the fan output line immediately. As expected, when I hit the low, med, high, and off buttons on the remote, I hear a relay click. Voltage remained around 120V regardless, even at "off." I know the capacitors are doing something to the phase angle, so not too surprised voltages read around 120V for low, med, and high. The one scenario that surprised me is that I get 120V even at "off." When I connected a single-speed gable exhaust fan to the IFAN03, it doesn't turn on at all, even thought I know it's getting 120V. Do the capacitors have palarity? I assumed they didn't but still installed them in the same orientation (by the label marking) as the original. But I noticed label markings are opposite to what's shown in Travis's video. This IFAN03 with new capacitors may still work on my ceiling fan. But it's kind of a pain to install, so I don't want to actually do it until I have a bit more confidence this is going to work. Does Travis or anyone else have some insight on the results I'm seeing?
I temporarily wired in the IFAN03 to my ceiling fan. Surprisingly, everything seem to work fine. I still don't know whether it's appropriate to be getting 120V at "fan off," but not going to complain.
The fan speed isn't driven by a voltage difference. If you are seeing voltage with the fan load attached then that would be an issue but would probably make the fan spin as well.
@@digiblurDIY I just thought of something. When I was seeing 120V at fan "off," it may be due to the capacitors not completely discharging. I'll bench test again and report back.
@@digiblurDIY No, the capacitors weren't the cause of why I'm seeing 120V after pressing the "off" button on the IFan03 remote. Here's what I did to test: - connected the IFan03 input wires (line and N) to power - capped the IFan03 light output wire - connected the remaining two IFan03 output wires ("N" and "fan out") to my multimeter As soon as I apply power to the input wires, I read 120V. When I pressed any of the fan-control buttons on the remote (fan low, fan medium, fan high, and off), I hear a relay clicking with voltage remaining around 120V. As mentioned, clicking the "off" button activated a relay, but didn't turn off voltage to the fan output line I'm measuring. I thought the capacitors were causing this, but no; I waited for 5 minutes, but see no voltage decrease at all. When installed on my ceiling fan, this IFan03/MJ switch combination worked perfectly. Fan speeds were around the same as stocked speeds. When I pressed the "off" buttons on the remote or MJ switch, the fan turned off as expected. All other switches and buttons on both the remote and MJ worked flawlessly. I don't know why I'm reading 120V when the IFan03 fanspeed is off, but it doesn't seem to be causing problem on the ceiling fan itself. I'll be happy to run additional measurements if anyone is curious. Otherwise, I'll just install this and call this project a success. Also, if anyone happens to have a similar setup uninstalled, be great if he can run the same test as I did. Be fantastic to get an explanation to what I'm seeing. Once again, this is a stocked IFan03 with the two original large rectangular capacitors replaced by two 5uF ones.
Possibly dumb question here, but I am looking to get a standard toggle switch working with this to power the main relay off and on. Any ideas? On a standard sonoff I would just swap GPIO14 to 9 an that would be it but I notice that I can't do this with the ifan03.
@@digiblurDIY Thanks a bunch for your reply!!! Would it be possible to set one of those as the toggle switch pin? I am trying to retain some basic functionality at the wall to keep things simple when people walk in the room.
@@digiblurDIY Yes it is. If it will post, here are the rules I current have. Rule 2 for the dimmer is turned off because of some issues one device turns on the light and then another one turns it off. I have to use these dimmer values to get the leds to work right. Anything below 60 and they are all off. iFan03 Rules Rule1 on fanspeed#data=0 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/dimmer 0 endon on fanspeed#data=1 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/dimmer 80 endon on fanspeed#data=2 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/dimmer 90 endon on fanspeed#data=3 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/dimmer 100 endon Rule2 on power1#state=0 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/power off endon on power1#state=1 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Switch/power on endon on fanspeed#data do var1 %value% endon Rule3 on event#togfan do if (var1>0) fanspeed 0 endif endon on event#togfan do if (var1==0) fanspeed 2 endif endon MJ Dimmer Rules Rule1 on switch1#state=2 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/power1 toggle endon on switch2#state=2 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/fanspeed - endon on switch3#state=2 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/fanspeed + endon Rule2 - OFF - NOT ACTIVE on switch1#state=3 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/event togfan endon on switch2#state=3 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/fanspeed - endon on switch3#state=3 do publish cmnd/Back_Bedroom_Ceiling_Fan/fanspeed + endon Rule3 on power1#state=1 do ledpower 0 endon on power1#state=0 do ledpower 1 endon
@@digiblurDIY I do have it working, but the lights on the switch don't always work right. For example, when I turn the light on, the blue led and the bottom most green led turns on. If I press the dim up button, the fan cycles through the speeds. When the speed cycle gets to max and I press again, all the lights on the switch turn off and a red led turns on where the blue one was. I have a feeling this is because of the hardware in the switch itself so there is nothing that can be done. Just really annoying to me though.
First the dimming levels are very weird why it has to be like that. That's not normal. The rules probably need to be hashed out a bit more to get it working like you want. Jump into discord and post some logs and stuff so we can figure out what is going on.
Since I'm using the Martin Jerry dimmer only as a WiFi switch to control the IFan03, I capped off the 2 output wires on the MJ. Just out of curiosity, I connected a light bulb to those two wires. What I observed was that although the rules on the MJ decoupled its relay from the physical switches, not surprisingly, a "power 1" command sent via console or MQTT message still turns relay on. Also, the "dimmer" commands sent by rule1 on the IFan03 turn on the relay as well. Probably not a big deal, but having live voltage on the capped output wires bothers me for some reason. Is there anyway to toggle the led to reflect fan speed without having the relay turned on? Also, the command "ledpower" has no effect on the Martin Jerry. Does the MJ actually have an on/off status led?
The status LED, Led1 of 5 and the relay are hardwired together. You'd need to modify the switch to disable the relay. We have live voltage in wire nuts all the time? For ledpower, are you using the fork or the stock bin with PWM Dimmer?
@@digiblurDIY I've tried different combinations; just can't seem to get everything working all at once with any. Here are the scenarios and their results: 1) vanilla 8.4.0.2 with module type set to "PWM Dimmer" (module type MJSD01 not available): fan & light worked but ledpower didn't (i.e., no status light) 2) fork (8.4.0.2(digiDIMv12)) with module type set to "PWM Dimmer": fan & light worked; there is a status light, but it's on/off when fan is on/off. So ledpower didn't work. 3) fork (8.4.0.2(digiDIMv12)) with module type set to "MJ SD01 Dimmer": fan & ledpower worked, but long press that supposed to control the ifan03 light (on switch1#state=3 do publish cmnd/iFan03/power1 toggle endon) didn't work anymore. When I did the long press, I heard 5 beeps, followed by long beep, so fan turned on then off. Light doesn't turn on at all. When I checked messages with MQTT.fx, I saw the tog event being sent twice, and power1 toggle wasn't sent at all, which confirms fan turning on, then off. I guess I can live with either 1 or 2, and do without the status light. What do you think?
Setoption87 on the pwm dimmer is the LED status light. On the fork you use the ledpower when using the MJ module. tasmota.github.io/docs/PWM-dimmer-switch/
@@digiblurDIY Thanks for all your help Travis. Scenarios 1 & 2 both work now. I'll go with one of those. Since I'm still waiting on the 5uF capacitors, I haven't install the IFan03 into a ceiling fan yet. I'm just testing using an exhaust fan, so haven't been able to test the lower fan speeds yet; max fan speed worked fine. One thing that's a bit strange is that when I turn the fan on with either the 433mHz remote, Martin Jerry dimmer, or Tasmota UI, I hear the 3 beeps immediately, but it takes around 6 seconds before the fan starts spinning. Powering off is immediate. Do you have this behavior in your setup?
It's a built in module on my fork. Was never happy with the template for this unique yet flexible dimmer. github.com/digiblur/Tasmota/blob/development/README.md
I've literally spent 6 hours between yesterday and today trying to get this ifan03 to show up in some sort of logical useful way in homeassistant and it simply isn't working. With MQTT auto discovery I get a switch that turns the light on and off and "Tasmota" 1, 2 and 3 that do nothing. I've tried following guides on multiple sites and YT videos and nothing works. Many links are old no longer work and redirect such as the "iFan03 Home Assistant Templates" in the description of this video. I tried following a guide to add a new fan card resource but again that also doesn't work since resources are saved somewhere else now? If anyone could please step in and help a HA noob get his ifan03 to display correctly in HA I'd be super grateful. FYI I'm not a total noob, I have many other tasmota devices using MQTT around the house working perfectly.
@@digiblurDIY I made some progress... I disabled MQTT HA auto config, and inserted the manual YAML into my config. I now have a working light. The fan speeds work except when I select off it doesn't turn off. Also when I click the fan on/off slider it slides on for 2 seconds, then slides back off, but no change happens to actual ifan device. Here's my config: fan: - platform: mqtt name: "Family Room Fan" command_topic: "cmnd/familyroomfan/FanSpeed" speed_command_topic: "cmnd/familyroomfan/FanSpeed" state_topic: "stat/familyroomfan/RESULT" speed_state_topic: "stat/familyroomfan/RESULT" state_value_template: > {% if value_json.FanSpeed is defined %} {% if value_json.FanSpeed == 0 -%}0{%- elif value_json.FanSpeed > 0 -%}4{%- endif %} {% else %} {% if states.fan.family_room_fan.state == 'off' -%}0{%- elif states.fan.family_room_fan.state == 'on' -%}4{%- endif %} {% endif %} speed_value_template: "{{ value_json.FanSpeed }}" availability_topic: tele/familyroomfan/LWT payload_off: "0" payload_on: "4" payload_low_speed: "1" payload_medium_speed: "2" payload_high_speed: "3" payload_available: Online payload_not_available: Offline speeds: - 'off' - low - medium - high - platform: mqtt name: "Fan Light" command_topic: "cmnd/familyroomfan/power1" state_topic: "stat/familyroomfan/POWER1" qos: 1 payload_on: "ON" payload_off: "OFF" retain: true Thanks
