This channel is way underrated. I haven't seen such a comprehensive and detailed explanation of this matter elsewhere. The video came up by keyword search as I'm about to buy the ZV E1 with a big crop when using dynamic active stabilization, that's why I'm looking for a lens that could compensate it. Thank you for making everything clear for me.
As a bonus the ZV-E1 still has eye AF even with dynamic stabilization and clear image zoom on top of that. It's a great lens the problem for me is the focal length itself way too much distortion on faces and anything near the edges. Great video, lots of useful info.
Great video. Really appreciated the visual examples…made so much more sense to me. I found your page as I purchased the 11mm/f1.8 used, then realized it’s an APS-C, so feeling a little buyers remorse. To have the visuals and the instruction to make it more effective I am feeling much better about it! Subscribed and looking forward to learning so much more from your page. Thanks!!!
I'm trying to buy a wide-angle lens for aps-c with a full frame lens. So I watched various videos while searching, and this video did the best analysis. It has all the information I want. Thank you for showing and comparing various lenses. I hope this channel grows more!
I like using the old sony pancake lenses on full frame mode such as the 16mm f2.8 or 20mm f2.8 and you can add the Wide angle converter or fisheye converter to go wider. its fun to use in tight spots such as cars, small rooms, vlogging, airplanes etc..
it's also worth noting the minimum focus distance is also only 4.7" I was hoping you'd cover that a bit, but this still exceeded my expectations. thanks for the video.
thanks for this really quality-made review. exactly helpful tests + recalculating real equivalents after active IS. and even no useless unpacking section for prolonging the video. much recpects for the effort
very helpful. my 10-18 recently died and i'm looking for something to help me replace it. it's not easy to find comparison videos when using apsc lens on full frame. thanks!
Thanks for that review, you really put a lot of interesting details into this, and your diagram gave me all kinds of ideas. I use that lens on APCS 6700. The one unavoidable problem for me, is with group shots, its too easy to make everybody look terrible with the 11mm lens. I'd need a 16mm lens to get 24mm on my crop frame camera. I think so many movie directors use 24mm as their widest frame, because beyond that, stuff starts to distort in all kinds of nasty ways... People tell me to get a zoom, but I'm up on a mountain 6000 feet, serious low light every evening.
This is best video for this, I have sony A74, now i need a secondary camera like zv e10, but i want some ultra wide lens which i can use on both cameras.
Thank you, , this is only one video without any marketing bullshit - just user experience. Thank you again, you helped me to make my mind clear about that lens.
Great video! I appreciate the calm delivery! Based on your video, my assumption is that with the ZV-E1 and Dynamic Active stabilization (about 1.3x) it would be fine and a great 14-15mm AFTER the stabilization. Would you agree?
I don’t have any experience with that camera, but my expectation is that it would be perfect for that. I’ve actually wanted to try it for myself. Even if there is a bit of vignetting, you could still crop it out.
Hello Andrew, thank you for this video, I learned a lot from it. I am looking for a cheap ultra-wide FAST lens for my sony a7iii. I am shooting events, and would use it mostly for stills and from time to time for video. My first question is: I learned that there is some degradation in its low-light capabilities when used in FF mode? Like...how could you measure its results? Around F2 or even 2.8? My second question is: Is it worth it, to save some bucks and go for this lens in comparison to the Sony 20mm 1.8? I understood that you gain some space (it is equivalent to 14mm in stills, not 16mm, right?) but then you lose some resolution because you have to crop? Some mm's more are always great, but is it worth the loss of resolution? What is your opinion? Thanks :)
You will definitely see a degradation in low light quality but it depends on what ISO you’re using. With your A7III you’re cropping from 24Mp to 16Mp and expanding that noise. You can test this out by running some cropping tests at various ISOs. I personally never use anything slower than F1.8 indoors. I have both the 11mm and the 20mm for video and love them both. The 20mm gets used the most because I rarely need much wider but when I do need it, it’s worth having a tiny, not-so-crazy-expensive lens that requires a little extra effort to make work. I do enjoy editing though.
@@v3zMedia I’m surprised to say that I don’t notice a difference. Even after cropping in, nothing really jumps out. Video is surprisingly forgiving compared to still photography.
According to this video super 35 crop mode uneccessary because in this mode we get much more noise. If we use full frame mode with active steady shot + 1.2 clear image zoom we get enough crop to avoid vigneting. I see better this option than using super 35 crop mode and this wa we get 14,5mm opopsite 16,5mm. But. instead of clear imahge zoom did you think about act steady shot + breathing compensation? It is also a crop and with breathing compensation it should work every focus function. It could be a solution not to lose the eye tracking. I don't have this lens yet so I can't try it but I'd liket to buy one, because this is the cheapest way to get 14-15mm wideangle lens with filter possibility. Thanks for this video!
Very informative, thank you! I wanted you to ask about an nd for this lens, what filter size it should be? Can I just slap 2 slim 55mm filters one being nd and second being glimmerglass, for example? Would it introduce vignetting? I saw from video that you have used step up rings and a bigger filter size nd. Is that what you recommend? I have 3 lenses all being 55mm filter thread I do I have to buy additional nd for this lens if I consider it to buy? thanks!
That’s a good question but one I can’t answer since I don’t have a 55mm VND to try. I would be hopeful that the crop that is introduced by using the methods that I mention, would eliminate that but I can’t say for certain.
@@dzheyd9609Hey! I just recived my Sony ZV E10 and this 11 mm lens. It is my first camera 😁 Not sure what ND filter to choose for this wide angle to avoid vignetting... someone told me is better to buy fixed ND filters, not variable. And also use a big stepup ring. Can you recommend me a brand? Maybe you can tell me exactly what you use for your 11 mm? Thanks!
@@claudiubanu8438 Hi, regarding ND I use K&F variable nd filters, and do recommend them. If you are just starting its the best and easiest way to get familiar with this tool. Dont buy the cheapest K&F nd but only those who have hard stops at the ends. I recommend K&F 2-5 stop or 3-8 stop nds from this brand. Those which are 2-400 or 2-2000 are almost trash. Fixed NDs are more for professionals and big heavy rigged setups. And 11mm 1,8 is not that kind of lens. If you put both 55mm nd and mist filter you may encounter a vignetting, so I recommend using bigger filter with step up ring. I recommend to buy a step up ring from 55mm(which Sony 11mm uses) to 67mm. Use 67mm variable ND filter because it is most versatile filter thread for Sony lenses(especially all Tamron lenses are 67mm).
Does gyro data is still collecting? I think no, so no Good for vlogging. Besides it does not use eye focus. Its super yummy but not for vlogging unfortunatly. Thanks for Good review!
6:26 Why did you lose the ability to use eye AF? As far as I know, using active stabilization, or clear image zoom doesn't limit eye AF? Also, why use active stabilization when it causes such an awful shift of the image circle, making the vignette move around. if you used 1.2x clear image zoom without any active stabilization, surely the vignette not wobbling around would allow for a slightly wider angle with much better consistency.
@@JohannBeute you are right. I thought the eye focus wasn’t working because when you leave the display to show how much zoom you have, it doesn’t show the box on your eye. Once you get rid of that display, it’s still zoomed in, but then the box shows around your eye. As for active stabilization, it’s only useful when you are moving around with the camera. With a static camera, using clear image zoom by itself is preferable.
@@AndrewVanBeekOttawa Interesting! I did a little research and was wrong, using clear image zoom does disable face and eye AF. Active stabilization does not, so I suppose that's why everyone opts for active stabilization to get that 1.1x crop, as opposed to just using a 1.1x clear image zoom. When your eye AF continued to work in your response, I'm guessing that was using active stabilization and not clear image zoom, right?
@@JohannBeute no, it really does continue using eye focus. Once you have set your clear image zoom, you push the middle of the wheel on the back of the camera and the display gets rid of the zoom indicator, but still shows how much zoom you have in a smaller icon, while also showing the box around your eye. Active stabilization does not affect the focus. Glad you pointed all of that out!
Hey Andrew! I really appreciate all the great information in your video. Im hoping you can lend some advice with regards to some of my needs and wants that i wish to achieve with a lens like this. As i'm on a budget, i'm trying to find something that could work for real estate videography/photography (in which i would be shooting 4k60 on the A7IV) and possibly some astrophotography for fun (i would probably aim for 16mm, which in theory would work in APS-C? (i don't know if this would be stupid to take away from the full sensor)) Thanks a lot!!!
The lens that has most recently caught my eye in the range you mention is the Viltrox 16mm F1.8. The reviews have been quite good and the price is hard to beat. I have no personal experience with it but it’s worth investigating.
Great video, thanks. Sony 11mm looks just good enough for video on A7IV. Who is more into photography Laowa 12mm seems a better choice, and you already have all that so you're good. Cheers.
Been watching a lot of 11mm f1.8 videos looking for a vlogging lens for an a6700. Upgrading from an a6000 so I have some stabalization to work with. I can carry the a6700 for vlogging and my a6000 with GMII sony full frame glass on a tripod for photos and other video. Best of both worlds until I make my first million dollars on youtube. lol Thank you man much appreciated.
@@dre_707 The Viltrox is a great lens but they are not easily comparable. The focal length on FF with Active Stabilization on would be 13mm for the Sony 10mm and would be 18-19mm for the Viltrox. The Sony is 165g vs 550g for the Vitrox. Different use cases for sure. I would likely end up with both.
I already have the A6700 and it works great on that. Still quite a crop with APSC and Active Stabe. Makes it the equivalent of about 18mm. The point of my testing was to what you can do with the 11mm on full frame and it definitely has a place.
@@AJTrucker ah yes, you are correct. I mix up the ZV-E1 and 10. I would love to have the ZV-E1 and was tempted when it came out. This was among the reasons why it appealed to me.
