This one was nasty. Probably the worst condition power supply I have seen, never mind repaired. A good example of how NOT to service it. Not my work, but the previous joker that attempted repair of this unit.
Do you have a list of the parts needed for this repair? I have one of these units and I'd like to see if I can repair the power supply which blew on me a couple years back...
did you ever get leaking transistor from emiter to colector(npn) I had one and when measured with meter it was good but kept shuting my power supply down so I just replaced it with 2n3906 and some resistors it was "digital" one.
I'm attempting to fix my mother's Admiral vcr that she purchased in the 90's. She loves her VCR. The vcr has no power. I opened it up, could see the 1.6a fuse was shot, order some, replaced, and blew instantly. I've got 4 fuses left and thought don't waste another fuse rather attempt diagnosis. One very small diode in the power circuit (looks very similar in looks to a 1SS133)....at any rate this particular diode while tested in circuit with meter in continuity mode displays an equal value (does not sound but reads) regardless of whether my probes are on the cathode or anode side. No other diodes show a reading while in continuity mode which leads me to believe this particular one is bad. Am I correct in my thinking and if so how can I determine what size diode I need as visually I can see no numbers stating value? Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us on RU-vid. I have always been interested in electronics but am just starting to learn.
Thanks for the video! Gave me courage to open ours up. It sometimes attempts to power up and immediately shuts off. Opening the power supply box you see a brownish/honey like substance between 3 pairs of capacitors. The board itself has a 'greasy' look to it. There's a large black/burn-like mark on the underside of the power supply clear plastic piece. And a frozen guidepost arm. Do you think the power supply is worth trying to fix?
Sir my Sony VCR slved66 is switching off automatically after 15 minutes. Once it is off then it does not turn on for atleast 20 mins. I am unable to understand why? Could you pls help.
Hey I have another question. I have a 1986 Panasonic VCR with a switching power supply. I opened it up and the filter cap is an 85 degree! I'm pretty sure it's the original cap as it has the old Matsushita logo on it. Should I replace it with a 105 degree? It's a 120uF at 400V.
The power supply operates at a high frequency, and this creates high ripple currents at that high frequency along with all the harmonics generated in the chopper transformer. These high frequencies and ripple currents cause heat, that will overheat the lower rated 85'C caps and boil out the water based electrolytic. When the water boils, it turns to steam, and that builds pressure until the safety vent pops on the cap. Then it dries out, and is shot.
Great video! I got a question I have a Sony svo 9600 I asked for help and someone on RU-vid said to check the power supply, and this is how I found your video my question is the same way you went about to fix yours would be the same steps as the one I have?
My JVC HR-SC1000U SVHS machine has those same style "rosewood sidepanels" (I did use quotation marks there) and the places were the screws hold them on are the same style as well.. I haven't watched hardly any of the video yet but I'm wondering if JVC made this thing for Sony. [Never mind - I notice the Sony only has one of those screw hole things instead of two on the side like the JVC].
This was a really good video. I am reviving my old busness Frank Reiser Audio/Video Service. Everyone needs their TV fixed, or anything electronic fixed.
True, we have a very nice CRT TV and LG Home Theatre system with a PSU problem. I see no reason why we should simply throw them away, when all they may need is a component or two costing a few bucks.
I'm working on a Sony SLV-595HF power supply. The snubber cap is no go go. ESR of almost 30. It's a 50v 4.7uf. can I use a 50v 6.8uf on it? I know it's not ideal but is it safe for this purpose? Waiting for the mail to bring me the correct value is ridiculous right now in the states.
I had an SLV R5 back in the days. It was an awesome machine! the first issue i had was the power supply that blew-up. Then few years later it was the plastic gears. In the 90’s, no internet parts database… so i had to scrap it.
Hey 12Volt, am a 30 year old electronic tinker, i want to learn how to service and preserve these old machine. Besides watching your Outstanding and wonderful videos can you tell me what else i can do to learn about working on them. Or even just the basic service and maintenance of a VCR/dvd combo unit. Thanks so much for your HELP
No the hifi is fubar. Video in production to fix the hifi problem. Color phase jitter caused by noise from psu. Once shield in place color is good but no hifi. Parts should be here tomorrow. I know the fault.
+12voltvids Also, check if the S-VHS playback is good. Some machines play back regular VHS good but not S-VHS. If I remember, your Mitsubishi had that issue.
Yes VCRs that uses the JVC comb filter had that problem. Not sure if Sony uses the JVC module, because Sony holds patents for VHS too, as they were the co-inventor of VHS. JVC likes to take credit for VHS, but in fact Sony developed the system before settling initially on Betamax, and JVC has never denied this fact. Being the co-inventor means they didn't need to get certain parts from JVC as other companies did, they could make their own.
I'm pretty sure my Panasonic NV-FS200 (PAL/MESECAM AG-1970) uses one of these because the picture on S-VHS is noisy...It's a 24-year old deck so this is a problem to expect...
Smashing job :D, another machine snatched from the jaws of death lol. Nicely cooked psu, ive seen only a few vcr's with the same type of idea. ive been lucky with them, just re-capping and away they go :-D i have not seen one of those machines though, the tape loading arms/gears sound very badly made. I had one ferguson videostar front loader that was thrown out by a tv repair shop, a really nice vcr, new condition, the loading arms were floppy and did nothing, i had to remove the head assembly and disurb some of the guides to remove a plate with the slots in for the arms, under that there were two massive rings with teeth and spacers, it was just a matter of putting them and the loading arms back in synk, plate back on, guides screwed back in to the marks i had put on them, head assembly back in. It gave a beautifull picture :-), perfect tracking, clear sound, tape sitting correctly on all guides, i gave it to a frend and he used it for 6 years without error. Tv shops just cant be bothered to repair decent vcrs :-(
Thanks a lot for the video! I greased the lever that was also stuck on my machine! After that loading and unloading the tape worked like charme again. When the power supply's capacitors ran out many years ago, they were changed to new (high temp) ones. However since the PCP's copper lines were seriously gone it did only work as much as your power supply in the video did, just before you fixed the broken line with the wire (drive worked, but no video out and no VCR display). Now after all these years I now wanted to measure what voltages the supply produces in order to find where to look for the problem. However taking out the power supply for these measurements turned out not to be my best idea. Not only that some of these voltages are switched and can't be measured without powering up the VCR. I came to realize after powering up the supply without any VCR connected and then reinstalling it the supply does nothing any more. Do you have an idea what breaks and needs to be fixed when I power up the supply without a connected VCR? Thx a lot in advance!
It will produce standby voltage with the PSU removed. If no oscillation then the boot cap on the primary side may be open. That is a small 1uf 250v cap. Or the ic may have popped.
@@12voltvids Thanks for the swift reply. Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope here. As I got some voltages on the sec side this morning I would guess that the oscillation might still work. Since I did not do much more that connecting the PSU to power without load and as a result I somehow lost the supply for the drive part that was working before, I thought that firing up the PSU dry was a mistake. Since I don't have proper tools (oscilloscope) and a solution now appears somewhat further away I might rather send it to someone who offers these PSUs in exchange. Again a big thanks for you video and your kind reply!
Also a really easy way to discharge some of those main filter caps safely is to use the low Z mode on a multimeter. Its usually 2-3k input impedance and will allow you to read the voltage as well.
Yes I'm guilty of doing that too. I stopped using a screwdriver when I was using one to discharge a 400v start capacitor in a pool pump motor and it blew the terminal off the cap. Ruined my screwdriver and my undies
I was giving a R5 from my dad. The unit has no power when plugged in. I opened it up and it appears a few capacitors have leaks(dark brown liquid all over the inside of the power supply) over the years it caused a lot of corrosion to the board. Not sure if I can fix it. Do you know where I could buy one? Thank you in advance!
You probably won't find a complete new power supply these days as that unit is very old. The only chance you will have is to rebuild it, like I did on mine. Just replace all the leaking caps and repair any traces that are eaten through will generally fix it. As you can see the one I ended up fixing was the one that was actually in worse shape, because the drive IC was popped on the other one. Mine is working fine now.
12voltvids I saw that you went out to buy caps and came back the same day, do you have a local store that supplies them? I'd like to shop for some but all I can find are online stores my local store charges like $2 per each for them
I have sony mhc p99x.125w small mini ...its fan does nt work and it gets hot around 60..70 C. can i use computer fan? will it burn if fan is not working?
Seems like a common thing with Sony vcr's ,including beta ones.bad PSU caps (especially the SLHF950 Superbeta) and cracked plastic, crappy gears.Panasonic too has started to show these 'issues' in the 'K' deck too, on the motor coupling and also pinch roller hold in cap.
I think it was 82K. Any high value will be fine. 100K would also be OK.When the power supply is running the resistor does nothing, and when power is removed the running circuit will discharge the cap quickly.This is only for discharge if the unit is in a no start condition. 82K will discharge the cap completely in about 1 minute.
This is becoming quite a problem in the vintage computer world. BTW the startup shutdown sounds like the IC has latch protection. So it detects a gross error condition and it latches into shutdown because it likely has a flipflop internally. Check the opto-isolater, I bet the LED is bad. In the early days of SMPS supplies, everyone used STK ICs, or more commonly, the STR series from sanken.
It's a great unit but you better get two because one of them will be in the repair shop. I bought mine new for big bucks. Then it broke down and I paid a small fortune to fix it. Then it broke down a 2nd time. I threw it away and bought a new cheap plastic JVC S-VHS VCR for $129.00 at Best Buy.
With the recent rise and boom of 3D printers and printing, replacement gears are not out of the question! I had a panasonic 5-disc bookshelf stereo, it had a broken gear that was part of the changing mechanism, Had a friend of mine print a new one. It worked great until the day the laser pickup died. :-(
I was considering getting a gear printed for the other SLVR5 I have, but with the capacitor issues, and the power supply issues that one will probably become a parts machine.
Some of those 85 degree caps look like they're older than the VCR itself, especially a couple of those Rubycons with circular relief cuts on the top of the can as opposed to the "K" cut relief typical of the brand. Makes me wonder if the person who replaced those caps before used salvaged parts.
Who knows. When I was still in the business in late 90`s most suppliers were supplying 85`caps still, and when 105 were ordered 85 would arrive.The old school parts shops didn`t care, they just wanted to move their inventory. A mindless job, working in a parts store that is.One of the local ones has a sigh hanging over the counter that reads ``Ì KNOW NOTHING``
the last time I saw wooden end cheeks on a vcr was a 1970's umatic - was this an American thing ? I've seen lots of USA cb radio base stations with wood - but the UK seemed to drop wood in the 70's
I have two Sony super vhs systems hooked up to my sharp pal to ntsc vhs system that I used to transfer European movies for friends into ntsc, I only used them like for 30 tapes or so because DVDs came out so they are like new, what too do with them now?
Some of those units are worth quite a bit now due to their rarity. SVHS never did make much of an impact for home recording, and the few that bought into svhs did so for a reason, so record their personal videos at the best quality. Problem is many machines no longer function and getting parts is difficult, so people with many tapes go looking for used functional machines. Units in good working order command a few bucks. I recently sold a mono Beta for 350.00!
wow that's great to know, I could use some cash, im a single father of a 16yo son and a 15yo daughter and as a paramedic I make a joke of a salary, but I love helping people that are very sick or hurt in a MVA so this is all that I can do and it doesn't pay good at all, RNs make twice what I make an hour so I need to sell off my equipment so I can afford a transmission for a 2000 volvo s80 I got him as a first safe car, unfortunately the only way I could afford it was in its broken condition, I pray that someday our lives improve a little. I love your videos sir, God Bless you and your family. Tom from Colorado
Those elna caps certainly don't seem to be standing the test of time. I've repaired a number of Kenwood stereo components recently, all of which had bad elna caps. That said the use of general purpose caps in power supplies is something even reputable manufacturers are still up to. I've repaired a number of Humax set top boxes lately, where they install 220uf caps on the main board to filter various buck regulators. They fail, and people on the net blame the fact they're made by Sam Young. No, it's because they're a standard range being used in high frequency power supply scenarios.
The rumours circulating years ago was when ROHS rules came into effect manufactures scrambled to make an electrolytic that was less harmful. A few companies invested a lot of money to develop the formula. However to keep others from stealing the formula, when they submitted the formula for ROHS approval, they left some ingredients out. The incomplete formula was lifted by a disgruntle engineer that had been lured to a competition. He took the formula with him, or at least what he thought was the formula. Soon every manufacture was making ROHS certified capacitors that were water based not oil based. A few years later it became apparent that the formula was incorrect because every manufacture that store the bad formula from each other all made caps that failed prematurely. The prime company's capacitors never failed, and most are still going strong today.It is pretty easy to figure out which company did the research, as you rarely have to replace that brand.
Hi, I have a Sony SLV-R1000 that appears to have a bad power supply. Plug it in and nothing happens. What would it cost to service the power supply if I removed it from the deck and sent it to you? Thanks
Couldn't tell you without getting it on the bench. Want a ball park guestimate 100. Now since you only want to send the power supply I can not test it without opening up my 1000 and pulling the power supply to test. For that another 100 for the extra time. Better just to send the entire machine to be sure everything it good to go.
12voltvids haha appreciate the quick reply but I'm just in need of the power supply. I also got a unit that had some custom work done on it and it's a complete mess. I'd normally attempt am overhaul but this one has several scratches across the pcb and broken traces on top of the transformer being toast.
I have another problem if you could please help me I have a 1984 top loader Quasar VH5041XW that the gears won't work when play, forwarding and rewinding when playing it just eats the tape and I already cleaned the Mode Encoder switch so i don't know what to do.
Bud ... you should have been a teacher, guess that is what you are doing now. Good Stuff !!! Lots of great info to use ... thanks. PS: I just hate Sony’s “Blue gear of death” .... there seems to be sooooo many.
That projector on the floor is the twin to another one I have. It is a TV telecine projector. Optically it converts 24 frames to 30 frames for TV conversion. It came from (as did the other identical unit I have) from the TV station I worked at. The shutter is a 5 blade shutter, so 1 frame gets 2 exposures, and the next 3. (3-2 pull down) so that 24 frame film content is synchronized with 30 frame NTSC video, plus the lens has IR cut filters in it to remove the IR radiation that would cast a red tone on the resulting video. I will demo it before packing it away. I don't get many 16mm films to convert, but I have a few I cam play with and show off the quality.
I have several 16mm films I pulled out of a school some years back including one reel of a documentary on Rocket Richard. I got 16mm projectors in an estate sale but stored them out in the garage. They *might* still be repairable as they were in protective heavy cloth jackets as they were made for outside projection. I must pull them out sometime and check on them.
I have a similar vcr it's a Sony SLV-575UC. Eletricly it's fine but sadly the vcr mechanism has a broken gear. So the left tape guide dose not move. Idk aney one to print a replacement.
@@12voltvids oh really!? That makes me super happy. Now I can rec my music and use it once I get the replacement. Could you make a vid on what sights you use to get you're parts? It would be nice for people who are new to repair.
@@ceilingfanmusic6597 Kpcomponets in Surrey BC carries the parts. Here is the link. kpcomponents.co/products/sony-3-736-147-01-left-gear-replacement-4-95-each?_pos=1&_sid=b9adb7b97&_ss=r In stock.
I hated those power supplies.. saw a lot of them over the space of around 3 years then I guess people just bought cheap plastic new ones. The other fault which I remember being very common was no drum spin caused by bad connections down deep under the deck. Fix the damn blown supply, then 2 days later back "no video".. drum not spinning. I think that was one of those series of machines that didn't like being moved once that had got comfy under a tv :D
I have an old JVC SVHS that has been in storage more than ten years. Now um curious if it still works? That's my best VHS. But I don't have many SVHS tapes. Don
I'm not an electronics engineer but that looks like a terribly designed PSU. It's mounted upside down, I guess a lot of boards are mounted upside down in VCR's, with heatsinks almost completely surrounding the capacitors. Imagine the heat build up in there. A nice unit overall though and great repair work.
When it is mounted in the machine, all the components are on their side, which will actually allow a fair bit of air flow over the components. It was a bad design though, as the failure rate was very high.
VERY FUNNY TO SEE THAT POWER SUPPLY IS BURN...WHAT THE HELL THAT GUY DOING TO IT..NOT GOOD NOT GOOD,,,,,ANY WAY .. YOU WORK HARD TO REPAIR THAT SHIT...THANKS
The hybrid IC has the oscillator, PWM controller and output all in the one IC. It never used to be available as a separate part, and that is why the entire power supply was changed on the 2nd SLV R5. This one went into a shop and the guy botched it. The second one (both owned by same guy) came to me, and I swapped the entire supply as the IC was blown, and I couldn't get the part, so I changed the entire power block, which has since failed. That part may be available now, I will have to check the number, but back in the day Sony didn't offer any parts for the power block, they only sold it as an complete unit, probably due to the difficulty, and hazards repairing it.
There's nothing wrong with using a 1uF 350v capacitor in place of a 1uF 200v or 1uF 50v capacitor. The 350v one is actually a better choice, because in order to handle higher voltage it has to be built to a higher standard. The manufacturers of electronic devices specify the lowest voltage capacitors that they can get away with because they are cheaper. You can always use a capacitor rated for a higher voltage than the one you're replacing (never use one rated for less voltage). The capacitance value should always match the one you're replacing of course, and in a power supply application, you should always use capacitors rated for at least 105 degrees C for at least a few thousand hours. Also, Rubycon capacitors aren't "cheap"; they are among the best you can buy. Rubycon, Nichicon, Suncon, United Chemi-Con, and Panasonic are all top quality capacitor brands.
ITs not built to a higher standard its build with thinker paper isolation between the plates , or to a higher RATING not STANDARD , The problem with Caps is Residual voltage , and that thing is quality in CAPS , im not sure how they are called but there are caps that are not Electrolytic that dont have Residual Voltage after discharge , for example , 10V Electrolytic discharged will , recharge it self to 2 V after discharging , that is quality in Caps , Rating is Rating its not higher standard . Just to make things clear .
@@dedskin1 "ITs not built to a higher standard its build with thinker paper isolation between the plates , or to a higher RATING not STANDARD" Yes, they are built to a higher standard, which is necessary to achieve the higher voltage rating. Which do you think will last longer in a 16 volt circuit: a capacitor rated at 16 volts or one rated at 160 volts (all else being equal)? There's a reason that higher voltage capacitors are generally more expensive.
@@MaximRecoil Thicker paper means more distance between the plates and that means less capacitance for same amount of material = more material for same capacitance of higher voltage cap = higher price for higher voltage , that is it , there is no quality difference far as im aware of taken that they are same manufacturer cap , put them on the scope , there is no difference , far as im aware of . Higher temperature rating would be something else , that would be higher standard
@@dedskin1 That IS a higher standard, regardless of how it is accomplished. Anything built to handle high voltage has to be built to a higher standard, because the normal standard doesn't cut the mustard. For example, if you want to manufacture wire for a 20,000-volt circuit, you can't just use the standard 300- or 600-volt PVC insulation that e.g., hookup wire uses; you have to use something with a much higher dielectric strength, else the 20,000 volts will arc right through it. The cheapest way to build capacitors is to build them to handle low voltage and low heat for a low amount of time. Increase any of those things and you have to increase your standard, as well as the cost. Higher voltage is certainly not a lower standard, and it's certainly not the same standard, which only leaves a higher standard.
You would be surprized how much I make fixing old electronics.This machine was given to me, I sold it for 200.00 after fixing it.You might not care about vintage video, but to someone that has a bunch of tapes and no means to play them, to them it is money well spent. I wouldn't be fixing these things if there wasn't a demand for it.
I see where your coming from but you can find VCRs in pawn shops and garage sales for $5. I fix modern electronics but didn't know there was money like that in older pieces. What else do you fix like this that makes money? I might have to start getting in to it.
The only thing there is money in is vintage and pro audio and there is plenty of that work. Also obsolete formats such as betamax and super vhs. Regular vhs machines are a dime a dozen but these won't play super vhs tapes. S-VHS machines are all old and breaking down so people are looking to get them fixes just so they can play their tapes. I fix my own because I use them for transfer work. I don't do this work for a living anymore and I make more from the ad revenue than I do from fixing stuff.
It is the best feeling when you fix something or bring something back to life that not very many other people would have known how to fix but making money off of it makes it even better. Thanks for videos. If I ever get a vintage customer I'll be coming back.
I asked you what could i do with my sony vcr, he don't wanna turn on... he just work on stand-by, don't even show tape indicator... you told me to replace caps on power suply so i did, every one with new one and it stil don't wanna power up... i tried to put that suply in annother vcr and it works... what could it be? it's not power suply...
Sorry looks gorgeous on the outside and absolutely capacitor pig inside the way to minimize people and capitalize on the cheap pretty sure all Early versions of video cassette recorder are like that
Wait till you see part 2 of this machine. The HiFi board has a problem. More caps, and in this case they pissed on the board, and even burned their own leads off. Have to get parts to fix it, another trip to the parts store.
+12voltvids Is it not the case though that a higher voltage (and therefore physically larger) capacitor has higher ripple current rating and therefore should run cooler? I've used this idea in a couple of high-speed power supplies and they seem to stop cooking caps.
+Jason james High stress I mean. damn auto correct :) on a switching power supply I think the esr rating is more important than just temperature since nearly all modern caps are 105 rated, even the cheap ones
Capacitor issues in vintage electronics are going to become more and more of a problem. Remember the early sony handycam 8MM machines and their SMD caps? ooooohhhh yea...... lol.
let's say you don't have a psu spare, you spend severals hours to repair the psu and then when you put a tape you realised the video head is defective.
I would say it sucks to be you, but we have all been down that road. I had one back when I was in the business just like that. Mechanical problem spend time to change broken gears in mechanism and loader only to find a snapped off head. Customer had a home porn tape stuck in the machine and took it apart to remove tape and broke head. I spent an hour repairing the mechanism only to find the head broken. Needless to say I was really pissed because I couldn't change for the time. I did get even with him at a future date though when he brought something in with a popped fuse. That came to a 99.00 repair. 1.00 under the 100.00 limit where I had to give him an estimate. The next few jobs he brought in had the price inflated as well, to cover all the lost time on that vcr. Had he been honest and said "I removed a jammed tape, I may have damaged something" it wouldn't have been so bad as I would have looked at the heads first but he said nothing.
