That’s an amazingly well preserved vintage amplifier, it’s like a museum quality exhibit, that’s a brilliant find. Items are only worth what people are willing to pay, you can ask any amount of money but it’s unlikely you’ll get it!
you would be suprise on how much people are willing to pay , i sold a marantz amp a 2220b on facebook marketplace for 300$ all original a old pair of bose 601 series II for 150$ with 4 8inch woofers with no more suspenssion on it and right now i have a old Accoustic Research XB turntable for sale at 300$ and a lot of people are interessted in it but i dont ship so takes a bit more time to sell
@@c4shd34d30 I am fully aware what people will pay. I sold a Sansui 3300 cassette deck for 300.00. I paid 0.00 for it. I paid 0.00 for this and if I get 200 I will be happy.
@@12voltvids yeah i paid 0 for my stuff too it was the mobile ecocenter in the village where i live people where giving that stuff i even got a 49 inch changhong "all lg inside" tv that the tcon board was busted bought one on ebay for 20$ now i got a 4k tv working but still as some issues with it the image when there's fast movement makes the image jump so i suspect that the tcon board even if its the same part number his not 100% compatible with the lcd panel
That record came from the tv station i worked at and it was like that when they threw it out and i grabbed it. My records that bought are all pristine as is both the turntables i use. Big difference between garbage records I use for test and old turn tables I pick out of the garbage can to get running and flog.
I still have mine with a matching tuner. I offered it to a friend of mine for free. I also offered him a TA2650 amp with a matching FM, AM and 2SW bands and a matching cassette deck. He's turning his nose up at them, so they may end up in the Skip. Thats the problem of being a Sony Dealer, you buy a lot of Hi Fi. There are still about 3 systems I might keep. Eventually Sony became conservative in it's specifications and would rate them as both channels driven into an 8 ohm load. They would also quote them driven from 20 to 20 KHz RMS
Easy to work on older equipment like this. One doesn't have to worry the traces will lift when changing parts, mechanically things like switches are solid, planty of space for components to disipate heat. Easy to check ripple when the amp is driving load. I remember Hi-End tube preamp by Audible Illusions, no neg feedback in circuitry, uses separate volume for each channel. However in this case is to eliminate additional noise from extra potentiometer, and yes they produce noise. Very nice sounding piece of tube electronics.
Here's an interesting observation regarding electrolytic caps in older audio gear. A friend of mine bough 2 NAD1155 preamp control units on fleabay and asked me to go over them. They needed the usual cleaning of switches and pots with Deox but otherwise worked fine. I decided to do a little experiment with audio grade electrolytics. On one unit I replaced all the electrolytics in the signal path with supposed high grade caps ie Silmic, Nichicon, Panasonic etc and left the other with it's originals but didn't tell him which one. I eagerly awaited his appraisal. He has quite good Speakers and a nice amp setup. He said there was definitely a marked difference between them but couldn't say which one he liked best. I just found it quite interesting if not conclusive.
If there is a speaker protection circuit, check that it is operating well. Trust me on this one. If it is not operating well (the circuit or thereabouts) then the sound can go funky like you say. Sony put it in my unit but in 1972 original year, it did not have it. Mine is 1973 revision. Ok, back to watching! Awesome vid so far.
I have two focus albums this one and hamburger concerto. They both came from the same place the TV station I worked at back in 1981-82 and they're both in the same shape. Both records were just stuffed into the same jacket and were used for the intros and extros for so many programs that we did. I've got another one by a band called Macondo which has some good intros and extros to music but the rest of the track is garbage as they're singing in Spanish I believe, but we used it just for the opening riffs for titles so forth. It's just as badly scratched as these focus albums. Out of the records that I actually bought the only ones I've got that are actually scratched up are the ones that I was stupid enough to loan to friends. I actually lost one friend 40 years ago when I loaned him my Steve Miller band record and he left it sitting next to a heater and it got warped and I asked him to buy a new one and he didn't have the money so I demanded his mother replace it because he wrecked it and she said "too bad so sad it's not happening." I haven't spoken to him in over 40 years. Lesson learned. I don't borrow or loan anything especially money.
@@chrissanders2562 That didn't cut it. I was in think 13 at the time and saved up to buy it plus a 3 hour bus trip to the record store. I wanted it replaced. My friend had no money and his mom said no wasn't replacing an 8.00 record. I shouldnt have loaned it to him was the response.
@@12voltvids yeah that makes sense. If it was me i would've found a way to replace it if it was my fault. I guess he wasn't a real friend to begin with.
@@chrissanders2562 He was, but didn't have any money and unlike some spoiled brats his parents wouldn't bail him out and put the burden on me. Lesson learned. Never loan anything to anyone that you expect to get back in the same shape. If someone wants to borrow a tool, I tell him about the rental store where he can rent anything they want. Same goes for those that want to borrow a truck to move something. Here is the number for U-Haul. My daughter learned the hard way when one of her ex friends wanted her to loan them a bunch of cash for a concert. That was like 5 years ago and she is still waiting for the money.
That's a great retro stereo amp !! Brings back great memories! The 70 watts power rating is IHF, this was before the fact required rms power ratings! Probably is 25 watts per channel RMS
@@b.powell3480 someone on drugs is expecting to get 650 plus shipping from Japan. There are a few listed for around 150 us. I'll start at 200 cdn and drop it 20 bucks every time i relist till it sells.
I totally agree that you do not "have" to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors. However, in the time it takes you to pull them and check them, you could have just as easily popped a new capacitor in. Your time is worth something, those small capacitors are usually less than a quarter! Also, when it comes time to sell the unit, you will be able to sell it for more. It is all about perception. If the internet says you must replace all capacitors, most people will take that for the gospel truth. That being said, I typically replace all of them. Thanks for the great videos!
But I didn't pull them all. I pulled and checked a few. The rest I measured in circuit using ESR meter. True that caps are under 1.00 each, but each cap I replace is 1.00 less I make when I sell it, and quite frankly I don't care about whoever buys it. I don't care if the thing bursts into flames after it has left my hands. That actually happened once. Not to me, but I saw the aftermath. During a power failure about 40 years ago a customer at the shop I worked at put candles too close to their wood cabinet stereo of the day and set the cover on fire. Fortunately they were there to put it out. I know this because they came in with this nice Sansui receiver for repair and the side of the cabinet was all burned up. Guess what it came in for?....... Yup you guessed it, water damage!
I have 4 new old stock Sansui 7000s I found in the recyle bin. All in orignal boxes sealed. Sold one to Marice on Reveb, gave one to Billy Joel ans kept 2 for myself.
I have a bunch of old gears like that which I use once in a will. My preferred one is a Sansui 717 integrated amplifier which is sounding really good with Altec Lansing model 5 and 9.
I have this very same model. The right channel has lost all it's bass on mine. Left channel still good. Also the bass and tone slider do nothing. Nice video, thank you.
Same here.Philips CD100 was my first CD player. Slow as molases in January at cueing up but it worked. Got it in early 1983 just before I started working for Sony. Cost a small fortune and CDs also cost an arm and leg. I have a couple hundred vinyl records, but I have no love for the thin sound of vinyl. The guys that think it sounds better are all just tone deaf but in denial.
@@12voltvids 1985 ADC CD100X was my first player which used all analog filters. The early digital PCM filters sounded edgy my ears. I have a stack of dead Sony CD players which have various ills. I just fixed my Denon DCD-1560 two days ago. That is my favorite player from 1989, arm that holds that hockey puck weight which sits atop the CD was bent to the right so the puck scrapes one side. I think the plastic deformed with age? My 2006 Cambridge Audio Azure 640C has gone on the fritz and has trouble reading the directory. If you take it out of standby by unplugging it from the wall, let things equalize, plug it back in then it will work again, for a while. I have found my mechanical/digital friends to be far more problematic than my record disk collection and playback equipment. I have found the weak link in getting a good thick sounding bass on vinyl is in the phono preamp design and RIAA eq curve damage. I am using a DSP Phono preamp by Parks Audio, does all the nasty RIAA in the 24 bit 96Khz digital realm. No weak thin bass here.
In 1972 this amp probably sold for a couple hundred bucks and that was a ton of money back then. The Sony brand was not considered a budget brand. That belonged to the likes of Lloyds.
Here in the UK there is a disease called CCCD - Compulsive Capacitor Changing Disease. Glad to see another non sufferer! There are some on Valve Sets that need to be changed but in equipment of this era like you say it does not need it, There are 2 common questions on the forums I find. The first one is 'I have an old XYZ123' to which somebody always says 'Change all the capacitors' and the next question is 'I have an old ZYX123 and I changed all the capacitors. It still does not work! What now?'.
Most capacitors will never fail in solid state equipment. The exception to this rule was some items manufactured in the mid 1980s that had defective capacitors right from the factory. These are mostly the surface mount type that go leaky. There were a few other cases mainly with switch mode power supplies that had caps go bad in the secondary side of the power supply this was due to the high frequencies involved in the switchboard power supply. Mostly due to heat and the water-based electrolytic boiling out. In vacuum tube equipment wax paper based caps need to be changed because over the years the paper insulator between the plates breaks down and becomes electrically leaky. Since vacuum tubes are very high impedance devices it doesn't take much to cause them to go out of balance and start to conduct excessively which will shorten the life of the tube and could damage other components such as Transformers. In tube-based equipment all the paper caps do need to be changed but in solid state equipment only the ones that test bad need to be addressed.
Unmolested and in loverly condition, someone will snap it up :-D Wattage isn't everything, your valve amplifier has a loverly sound and that's what matters. What a bloody shame your day out was ruined :-( When you were spinning that amp around i thought about the round rotating platter. Making one might help you service stuff. Just a silly thought.
Was given one of these a little while back gave it a good clean it powers up fine just may use it as an amplifier from my computer, one scratching volume pot so put a wee squirt of wd40 behind the knob
Oh such a shame. I thought it was gonna have TO-3 packages because of how the receivers like my STR-7045 have, from same exact timeframe (produced simultaneously.) One thing Sony doesn't seem to ever have skrimped on is cooling. Even this unit has beefy cooling blocks in comparison to needs. That's why Sony is made for the long haul. No planned obsolence in my unit, for sure for sure. There WAS a wire up against one of the 2W power reisistors, and that wire was frayed like mad, and everything STILL worked well. I electrical taped over the fray and then put some extra extra type of tape over that, THEN moved the wire away best I can. It is all on point. I CRANK it like crazy dude, for real. 30W a channel but the way I have it, mmmaaaaaan. heh :)
The perfect cheap tool for cap testing if they are desoldered is an LCR-T4 from China. It will measure the capacitance and ESR in one take, *and* it will also give an approximate indication for leakage. The latter saved me hours of troubleshooting a few times! I would definitely change at least the coupling electrolytic capacitors in such an old amplifier, because if they are leaky, it can upset the bias of the circuits they are connected between, and cause distortion. My strategy is if I desolder a 40-50 year old 0.01...0.1$ electrolytic capacitor, it won't go back. I will test it to see if I found a problem, but it won't go back even if it tests good. You're right, the big filters rarely fail, I test them and they go back if they are fine, but I would change all the other ones in this one for the sake of long term reliability. Also, if I found a failed cap in such an old device, I'd change at least all the other ones with the same brand, series, and can size. The same batch from the same manufacturer often fails in groups by can size, if something was wrong with the sealing machine or with a batch of rubber bungs.
But i don't care because when it sells it won't be my problem. If it breaks in a few years i will be happy to repair it. And no i am not selling it as a fully recapped unit. I am selling as a fully tested and components that tested bad replaced unit so no come back if something goes Pop down the road.
If that Amp has had little use then the CAPs should be good. It’s not age, it’s service hours and temperature that should be considered when assessing electrolytic capacitor life expectancy. Having said that, if you are providing warranty, you may decide to swap out all of you are finding some failures.
Not really. Service hours when operated at maximum rating. If say the circuit operates at 26 volts and the capacitor is rated 50 volts it will likely never wear out. Same scenario where a 35v component is used, service life a little less, 25 volt part, it's going to fail sooner.This was the problem with all those samsung tv power supply failures. They used 6v rated caps on the 5v rail, 16 volt rated caps on the 12v rail. That and the fact they used cheap garbage caps to begin with.
@@12voltvids Temperature rather than voltage is the bigger issue. Leads to the electrolytes drying out and degradation. There are life expectancy curves from manufactures that give life expectancy over temp. A cap may give 5000hrs service at 80c or 10000Hrs @ 70c and 20000Hrs @60c.
leaving old capacitors in is a hard sell for me, even if they show no signs of degradation and still measure well. ive seen both sides of the coin, I've got a 25 year old rotel power amp and preamp combination im in the process of restoring, the preamp was full of black gates, one of them leaked and damaged the pcb, the power amp had physically leaky filter capacitors that had leaked all over the base plate and corroded the paint of. but then on the flip side, ive got a 50 year old little 'low end' rotel receiver that sounds absolutely wonderful and still has its original caps, but for not much longer . is a cheaping out on capacitors really worth blowing up your speakers?
Nice amp, I have the 1150d. It had distortion on the right channel. I ended up changing the right channel output transistors in the power amp section. Now it's not as noisy. How do you pick which capacitor brand to replace with? Everyone on forums goes crazy for nichicons but I can't find it locally. Something else to check on this amp should be the muting circuit, mine has failed I get a 'thump' noise in the speakers when I turn the amp on or off.
Muting circuit works fine. Kills sound as soon as switch turns off. I don't get bent out of shape for caps. I buy whatever behind the shop has available. Rubycon, nichicon, whatever I get.
Snap, crackle and pop. Rice crispies! Bit of dirt on that record, either that or it has had some rough treatment. I think someone at Sony was smoking something when they rated that Amp'.
Awesome find! Ive got a mid 80s pioneer amp that the right channel cuts all the way out on after about 15 minutes of use and won't come back for about an hour. Any idea what that would be?
@@bretthibbs6083 thanks the capacitors look like they're bulging and need replaced. It definitely gets hot. I wonder if replacing the big caps that look bad would fix it
@@chrissanders2562 you're welcome. yeah i would definately replace the caps if they are bulging and it may or may not fix it. but dave might chime in on that.
@@chrissanders2562 yeah that would work too but I would check the caps and possibly resistors on that channel cause another reason why it's getting too hot is to drawing too much power on that channel
Hello Great work !!. Can you explain the amplifiers used in JBL Xtreme... Tronsmart Element Mega SoundPulse - They work at 8 V. There are many portable speakers that work at a similar voltage and brutally sound . Interesting that their battery lasts a long time. How did they manage to do that?
They use switching converters to step up the voltage and and class-D (switch mode) amplifiers, which are more efficient than the regular home hifi A/B linear amps.
No not really. This is a 0.5% distortion amp with resistors in the 10% tolerance range. Nothing in this amp is symmetrical. Also keep in mind that back in the early seventies transistors were still considered brand new devices and the tolerances on them was quite high. You could take 10 brand new transistors out of the same bag and measure the hfe and find that every single one of them was different and by quite a margin. Don't think for one second that manufactures of mass produced products did any type of component matching.
@@MikeDS49 today we have resistors that are like 0.1% tolerance capacitors that are also within 1% and solid state devices which are within a fraction of a percent rolling off the line consistently. Back in the late sixties early seventies it was not uncommon to have capacitors that could be 10% under and up to 30% over they're rated capacity and still be within spec. This is why when I was testing the capacity of those caps most of them were over like a 220 showing up as 270 or 280. If it came up at less than 200 microfarad it would be considered out a spec but on the other side can be much higher. Transistors were another story besides gain there was noise ratio that varied widely. Especially the PNP type. This amplifier one of their claims was all silicon transistors. Prior to Silicon we had germanium transistors and they were even noisier. This being a class b amplifier it has relatively high crossover distortion compared to class a b which followed. Class a b of course is performed by just by saying the transistors slightly on. It increases the leak through current which creates a little bit of heat in the transistor what it's idling. It also reduces the efficiency and in the early days transistors did not handle that much current so they did not want to waste any of their headroom to excessive heat and kept the bias to a minimum even though it did increase the distortion.
@@12voltvids What a huge difference in tolerances! I guess it would be easier and a lot cheaper to build a modern discrete amp with newer, tighter spec components that can perform as well as a vintage high end amp ("but vintage always sounds better!") . I assume one of the large expenses of making good amps back then was finding matched component pairs that were close to spec. That and components were simply more expensive in general. Were class AB amps known, but manufacturers would rather have more headroom (dynamic range?) than less distortion? And would that be one of the reasons why people tend to think transistor amps sound worse than tube?
@@MikeDS49 Tubes sound the way they do because they are not clean, but the type of distortion they produce has even order harmonics. Exactly like musical instruments produce. Even order harmonics are all in phase and at octaves above the fundamental frequency. Distortion needs to be in the order of 12% before it becomes objectionable on a tube amp, but on solid state 0.12 is more than enough to aggravate your ears. Solid state ring out odd order harmonics. Tube amps sound very pleasing, but nowhere as accurate as transistor amps. This one is a quasi class B which is pretty bad in the THD department.
I had a cap get rather warm in a 80's tape deck and I thought it was bad, but it tested fine and next time I used the tape deck it did not get warm. So it must of been reformed? And for vinyl treat them badly then expect them to have crackle pop. :P
Those records came out of the garbage. That's why they were in the garbage because they got scratched up at the studio. I use them just for testing and for old turntables because I don't give a shit. All the vinyl in my collection from back in the late seventies early '80s are pristine, but then I would expect them to be that way because they haven't been played in 40 years. I adopted CD in 1983 and haven't played vinyl since then. I occasionally drag out a record and play either on my thorns or SL M1
@@12voltvids I still play my records and more so on my Seeburg Jukebox. A great deal of my records I got second hand and I think only a few do not have any scratches. Anyway keep up the good work , Love your videos....
@@Jamesnov1970 I play them too from time to time. Typically on a nasty winter day, on my day off and it is just too nasty to go outside. I will dust off the Thorens and fire up the Sansui 9090 and drop a rock on some grooves and listen.
@@12voltvids If that’s the case then why has one failed in this amp.? They are the most unreliable component in any electronics, funny thing is every lcd tv power supply I’ve worked on has had at least 2 bad ones
@@Synthematix the reliability of any electronic device is inversely proportional to the number of electromatic capacitors that contains. They are the most unreliable component however not all will fail. In fact the only ones that will fail are ones that were underrated, overloaded, overheated, incorrectly installed. The reason you see so many fail and your LCD televisions in the power supply is because of how they are being used. Switching power supplies operate at very high frequencies 50 to 60 kilohertz. This creates very high ripple current at that frequency which produces a lot of heat which dries electric out in capacitors. On the other hand an audio amplifier running at baseband frequencies power supply 60 HZ, and the coupling capacitors operating on low amplitude signals ranging from 10 to a maximum 20 kilohertz. This is not going to stress capacitors out. The one that failed probably failed due to the seal not being 100% and over the life of it it dried out. You have to remember this unit is 50 years old. But every other capacitor I tested tested good both the ones that were removed and the ones that were tested in circuit. And there's a good chance that they will never fail. In televisions CRT sets the ones that always failed were always in the same circuit. Vertical ramp and bootstrap capacitors, and filters used in the secondary supply fly back circuit which is the flyback being used to generate other voltages and again those are operating at horizontal sweep rate. You get the odd input filter that goes open, this is due to power surges over time pushing the capacitor past its rated voltage. Capacitors do fail from time to time but they don't all fail you get one maybe two that will go bad over the course of 40 to 50 years. Sure if it's something that you want to keep and you're doing your own service knock yourself out change them all if it's something that's not going to be put back in the service are sold and there's no guarantee that I'll get anything for this I may have to cut it loose for 20 or $30 if I'm lucky so saying that why would I put $20 in parts in something that I may only get $20 for. I know you're going to say oh I see these things going for five and six hundred dollars, pipe dream they will never sell for that and if someone is stupid enough to pay that for such an old piece of equipment they need their head examined.
@@12voltvids Also not forgetting the capacitor plague, 2003 to 2006 ish, they were god awful quality made in china crap most didnt even have ROHS. they swelled like balloons and usually completely corroded the pcb
@@Synthematix Right, but that was a manufacturing problem and it didn't just happen in 2003 to 2005. Remember all those crap surface mounted caps made between 1986 and about 92. All the camcorders in VCRs they were used in where they all pissed all over the board. Those were exceptions in those cases the craps need to go because they're all leaking. This was generally caused by bad chemistry and the rumor in the industry was companies we're stealing technology from other companies but they didn't get the formula right. It caused the electrolyte to become caustic when it was discharged which corroded the copper wire leading out of the capacitor to the circuit board. Once the lead became corroded enough the seal failed and the liquid which was corrosive leaked out onto the board and damaged the board. This is why I won't work on any of those old camcorders that have the leaking caps, I have fixed a couple where there has been one or two that have been bad as a demo and these have been on my cameras. I will not service a camcorder for a client that has leaking caps because the only way to fix these where they will last is to change the board. But outside of those windows of incorrectly manufactured capacitors they generally do not fail at a really high rate, and the ones that do fail repeatedly are all in the same circuit. Toshiba CRT televisions for example, vertical bootstrap cap, usually red in color, 100% guaranteed to fail. It was a special low ESR cap that they put in at the factory but unfortunately the brand they chose had a quality issue and they all failed. The place with any high temperature cap it'll last forever.
It's the microphone. These old amps are not that good though. They are a class B amplifier as this was before they perfected the class AB biasing so they all have relatively high THD. Something like .5% which is well above the hearing threshold of .12%. A far cry from the 0.003% that my technics suv9 sports.
@@davidgriffin79 That's correct. Both outputs are NPN type with the positive terminal for speaker connected between the collector - emitter junction of the outputs. The reason for this is nigh power PNP transistors were still at this point very expensive. The collector of one goes to the positive rail and the emitter of the other to the negative rail. The cap that was open was connected directly to the emitter - collector connection that goes to the speaker in the feedback circuit for the driver which would have a direct effect on the sound and it did.
@@12voltvids I noticed when you record audio from the shop speakers it almost always sounds very distorted even at low volume. I don't get how the ALC in your camera can't deal with the situation, as it's not a cheap noname junk. But it records your voice quite good, a lot of youtubers use a separate mike to reach not much better than this quality because the internal mike in their camera sounds horrible compared to yours. It might be the acoustics of the shop, or what?
@@mrnmrn1 speaker placement isn't good for the camera. For my voice the camera is directly above me about 6" over my head but for the speakers one is 9 feet on the air above my preview monitor and the other one behind the other tv.
Late 60's thru the early 70's had laughable power ratings before regulations and standards were set. Usually one channel driven and dynamic power which was a few milliseconds burst 1 Khz tone. Then there was peak and RMS ratings. Car stereo remained totally unregulated through the 90's and had some wild power claims. Another channel just did a test of a Pyramid equalizer power amp that the box was claiming 250 watts, 125 per channel. In reality it put out 10 watts per channel into 8,4, and 2 ohms, even the dymanic power burst was only 11 watts. Those were outright lies.
It is in good condition and if i get a reasonable offer for the amp it will sell. It's not currently listed for sale but it will be some day when i get around to it.
@@12voltvids Great, I am not interested in buying your one, I will probably rebuild the wood cover to OEM standard or better one day when time permits, I use my 2 TA-1055's daily on my computer and TV, set up, great little amps.
The snap crackle pop on the record would go away if you cleaned your records and took care of them properly I guess people are just too lazy to take care of things
I don't care about vinyl. It sounds like crap. I have everything on digital, where there is no noise, plenty of dynamic range and separation. Trust me, I do have 2 great tables for the odd old record I don't have on CD, as many have given me their old collections. I only bought perhaps about 60 vinyl records when I started collecting then started buying CDs in 1983 and never looked back. I probably have about 1000 vinyl records now just because people have given me their old collections. Many are in pristine condition. Yes I know I could do the glue trick on this one, perhaps I will do a video of the glue treatment and see how well this one will clean up, but I really don't care about these 2 records. I have them both as a high res digital file which sounds better than any vinyl release ever did.
