Hi, two weeks ago I shorted inadvertently one channel of my Sony TA-n80es. The protection triggered before the loudspeakers blew and I thought I was going to have a heart attack. After powering off and turning again on the red light went but the loudspeaker switch only worked if I put it on A+B. Next day, it again worked again in A position. It worked until yesterday in which one channel sounded lower. I did turn power off and sixty seconds later turn it on again but the protection kicked in again. I knew I had to turn it off but I insisted until a big bang and burn scents appeared. I fucked it all again! I've disassembled the amp and saw R401 and Q401 totally blowed up. Also all six emitter resistors and their corresponding power transistors were damaged. I've repaired my amp before but once I fuck it all turning on the amp to see how if broke again ruining spare parts and my nerves. I'm testing fusistors and I found R320 defective, also a zener diode, the D312 or D311 I'm not sure which one it was after removing them. R323 and R325 like also R424 and R425 are OK. The other fusistor that I've found broken is R402 which is between Q403 and Q404 drivers. I suspect that this resistor protected these drivers successfully because I checked them and the seem ok. Do you think that this failure is related to the short I made earlier? I don't trust in technicians but you. The sad thing is that if you lived closer to were I live, for instance, France, I wouldn't hesitate to send my amp to you but Poland is far far away and the war in region don't inspire me with further confidence. Can you help me across the distance? I'm going to undertake the repair. Only if this ended in a catastrophe I would think about contract your services and send you the power amp. Please contact me and we talk. Greetings from Barcelona.
I need to make you an important question. Have you had the opportunity to test and listen the different versions of this model? The 200 watts or the 160 watts. Which is better sonically and electronically? Please, answer quick! Your advice will be taken into account for a purchase. Thanks in advance!
In the minute 7:48, when you power up the amp, the bulb lights and you have the finger ready to turn it off if protection light keeps shining, right? But once the amp gets stable I don't see the bulb light shinning. What happens? I've been an idiot in many instances when my poor TA-N80ES is concerned. I would have saved a lot of headaches if I had implemented basic security measures like the series bulb lights for instance. I almost have put all new parts, I'm awaiting a few more but I want to have ready the bulb light tester this is why I also myself where that light went? Also, I want to check diodes SV-04 and HZ3ALL so I have bought two 4'5 Volts batteries, a tiny bulb lights and I will figure out how check with my multimeter. I'm not very smart checking a zener diode but I hope being ready after watching a few tutorials...
Hi, I'm watching your videos and I'm very pleased to see them. I have a question about the bias on this Sony TA-N80ES. Did the bias can be - 15mV on one channel and on the other +15mV?
First of all, hello to the repairman to which this question is aimed. Today or tomorrow I will receive the last component needed to accomplish the substitution of all the damaged components, out of curiosity, this last component is a zener diode on this Sony TA-n80es amplifier. And my question is this, how many watts have the light bulb to endure with this amp? There's some important issues that must be kept on mind. The in rush current the capacitors make in the turn on moment and second! My wall outlet is biphasic, it has no return or neutral but another line in phase with 120 Volts so I have thought that it would be wise to put one light bulb in each of both hot wires. Every bulb is 40 Watts, having two, increases by two the resistance of the flow. Something tells me this isn't going to work due to too low voltage at the amplifier terminals or maybe the bulb filaments won't resist the great inrush. Help me please! With your experience and knowledge, which wattage I must use to protect but allow test both simultaneously ... I wait...
I see this has been serviced before, the resistor that is between the left predriver transistors has been replaced by other no longer Orange. This resistor and a capacitor in parallel, allow to speed up the cut off of the driver transistors thus ameliorating this way, the cut off of the power transistors in the 0V crossing point. This minimises the switching distortion.
I own two ta-n80es gold, one of them is impeachable, like new, but the other have had all the failures possible, some due to misuse for my part. I had to change the four driver transistors by equivalent ones due to that I couldn't find genuine spare parts. Also, I changed all power transistors from the same code and the same beta letter, but I found replacements of 'P' instead of the 'Y'. The power amp sounds extremely good but if I could find the original ones maybe I would change those that I put. Could you help me to find these two couple of driver transistors? There's a lot of counterfeit ones in the market but I see that you are an experienced expert that have no trouble in finding them. I'm waiting for your reply
Driver transistors are exception, all of them comes from de-soldered units, i spend time on finding semi-broken amplifiers etc which have valuable parts for me, every other components can be found new old stock, but those drivers are kinda unreachable :p
