I would like to learn more. I own one horse in what is a three horse stable set up. We need to handle waste better. A reliable compost system or a way to take raw stable matter to plant growers.
Great video, but I would never let treated lumber sit against my compost pile. That stuff has nasty chemicals in it. I use scrap regular wood. Yes, it will rot eventually and be replaced, but it's better than leaching chemicals from the treated wood into the soil I'll be growing in. Another thing I have seen people use is the composite lumber (like Trex). I'm not sure about that yet, but will research it more.
Hi Laura - Thanks for your comment. A response from our horse guy: The basis for your concern has not been present in treated lumber around here since the mid 90's. Here is a good explanation: www.news-leader.com/story/life/home-garden/2009/04/26/most-pressure-treated-lumber-no-longer-contains-arsenic/77200928/
The fact that CCA is no longer used does not mean treated wood is safe. First, one cannot use even the "newer" treated wood if you wish to obtain organic certification because there is not yet enough testing to know if the newer methods of wood treatment (chemicals) are safe if leached into your compost. Here is the exact wording on the ruling, "A number of synthetic materials are now commonly used in place of CCA. These include alkaline copper quaternary, copper azole, and micronized copper azole. These materials are not currently allowed in organic production, as they are not included on the National List." Even in the article link you posted, it states that Quat is not on the allowed list of substances for organic growers. I realize not everyone is trying to obtain organic certification, but many of us want to grow using organic practices! And probably have concerns about food quality, which is why we are doing our own gardening and composting. Secondly, many people including myself will not buy new lumber to build a compost bin. We re-use old stock we have in the barn, garage, from a friend, etc. And how does one really know when it was produced? Bottom line, choose cedar, or choose other reclaimed hardwood lumber and treat it with a safe preservative. If one exists. I haven't researched whether there is a wood preservative that is OMRI-listed. In my case, because I live in a dry area, I use scrap pine and replace it when it breaks down.
@@SnohomishCD according to that method of pipes ,if we add some of chicken manure ,and we turn the compost pile every 3 or 4days, so can we still find ammonia ,and how we remove it
@@mr_korwagdy1257 Could you please clarify your question. I wanted to ensure we're able to answer your question, and just need to better understand what you are asking. Are you asking how to remove the manure to use it for fertilizer?
@@SnohomishCD no, not to remove manure, if u see the wheat straw in any planted land u will find it has a,, yellow color ,, so chicken manure , urea and gypsum ,,with continuous turning of the pile all that convert the yellow color to brown color ,but at that time we have a level of ammonia we need to remove it, and i saw some people put the pipes inside the pile like u but, how(( i want to make sure that ammonia is totally dissipated or removed ,))
@@mr_korwagdy1257 This came from one of our Resource Planners: Chicken manure will off-gas ammonia as it decomposes, especially if it gets too wet. The point of the pipes is to get more air into the pile allowing for better decomposition (providing air to the bacteria that are breaking things down). I assume if the pile is kept covered (not allowing it to become saturated with rainwater) and is aerated (by the pipes) and is kept at a higher temperature, this would help lower the amount of ammonia concentration within the pile because it is breaking down faster.
Hi Jose, Yes, if the pile if too large to mix by hand the pipes assist with aeration and allowing some heat to escape (though we want to keep some heat in to help break down the manure faster).
Hello! We do not the know exact size of the blower featured in this video. However, this is a useful article for sizing blowers/ fans. www.biocycle.net/2013/02/20/pipe-and-blower-fan-fundamentals-in-asp-design/ Hope that helps.
