In this video Tim and I begin to prep the castings of South Bend Shaper for paint. Support the shop on Patreon: / basementshopguy Visit me on Instagram & Facebook: / maplelanemachineandtool / basementshopguy
Trust me too... I'm (going) to be finishing it. The shaper is STILL in pieces in my shop. Just busy with jobs for my business. Surely you can understand the higher priority of being busy.
BasementShopGuy Yes I can...no problem...family and business should come first. However, I may have a solution for you...want to sell? Still subscribed.
I could tell in the first ten seconds or so that Tim knows exactly what he is talking about and knows the really right way to get an excellent finish. Exactly the same process applies if you are making good wooden furniture. Of course you don't have to do all of that; it depends on what finish you want to achieve. I'd probably skip most of the initial sanding and grinding unless there were some big parting lines. A heavy primer would be more traditional.
Evaporust is probably the number one most awesome find in my RU-vid experience. I think I saw it first on Adam's channel and I love it now. Usually I have at the least three gallons on hand now.
I would be sure to use a primer sealer on the inside of the castings so oil doesn't sweat out thru the pores. I would also offer my opinion that grinding the casting smooth is a mistake and that a heavy bodied primer that is then sanded smooth would offer superior adhesion.(it is also more like how the factory did it and if they were like Monarch they had glass smooth paint jobs.) Paint to metal is the toughest bond to achieve and a rough surface helps a lot by giving it bite. Paint on primer or primer on primer is usually a much easier bond since most will self etch if applied in the proper time windows as per the paint instructions. No doubt you will end up with it looking amazing however you do it.
bcbloc02 sound advice. I always use a sealer before base coats, but have yet to find a high build primer that is thick enough to replace grinding. Do you have any suggestions?
I use Dupont Chroma surfacer 7704S you can put it on at 4.5 to 5.5 mils in one shooting.(10mins between 3 flash coats). I have never painted any machine tools with it but it works great on old rusty pitted sheet metal on farm equipment.
Guys I really respect and enjoy your work. Not just the videos, but what you do with the machines. If I may suggest, check out the primers made by Southern Polyurethanes. I have no affiliation, just a long time satisfied customer. I've used their products on cars and machinery. Not sure if I should post a link or not.. If you need info or any advice on their products please do not hesitate to message me. I am confident you will be impressed with the performance of the paint materials they make and sell. Best regards, Marc
I really enjoy Tim's enthusiasm with the painting process and yours with all those detailed restorations. I've subscribed and await your next installment to the professional painting and total shaper restoration series. When play becomes your work, life becomes beautiful! Bravo!
No matter how noble the intention, a small piece of my soul died when I saw the grinding tools come out. I did a scraping class with Richard King in May 2016, and my personal project was this exact same ram out of my own SB7" shaper. I'm moving into my new shop (isn't everyone nowadays?) and should be putting out a few videos of the little fella any year now.
We didn't (are not) touching the ways. We accidentally dragged them across the table, but the grinder is only for the rough castings. Remember, South Bend did this too - only to a lesser degree, due to time crunch. But they most certainly ground the castings, free of the high spots and major flaws ;)
Are you actually rubbing the dovetail around on a bench with grind stone debris let alone metal chips. Make a beautiful looking tool but actually useless?? Look after the ways
Ten minutes getting flipped from side to side on a bench with some grinding dust is not going to amount to any type of damage whatsoever. We're not losing any sleep. You'd cause more of an effect on the surface by removing high spots with a stone than was done here.
This has been a great video. Thanks Brad and Tim for sharing some techniques that I didn't know about. Lathe looks incredible. Coincidentally my heavy 10 came brush pained the same color. Horrible job they did on it ..........but exact same sky blue shade
I do use the same techniques on machinery finishing and it is so worth it . acrylic urethane wears like iron and having a smooth finish cleans very easily and resists many solvents like brake clean . Blows enamel away
Hi man brilliant to see you back on the shaper build . As a long term subscriber I was thinking you would be putting another video up soon . Your editing and music was perfect like normal! . Great video ! Now I need to stop watching and get to the shop to restore my little hand shaper .
i had a shaper like this, after a year pissed me off the ways weren't hard so i took it to the scrap yard. figured no one would want a shaper. this was back in 2006. it wasn't a recognized brand, it was just Alba brand or something. Cute little thing it was. It had powerfeed on both axes and simultaneously, so you could powerfeed a 45 degree cut. I was going to make it CNC to cut out profiles for bicycle stems, but i didn't see it being able to cut square because of the soft ways. Guess it was only made for doing keyways, because thats what the previous owner used it for.
I like the way you guys are doing this. Looking forward to the next episode. I just bought a gallon of evaporust for my mill and i've been buffing the hand cranks that had rust all over. How likely will they shine up? Seems like I'm never going to get there.
Tim - where did you get your tachulator and how do you have it connected to your lathe spindle? I am working on restoring a 15" x 40" lathe and will be putting a VFD on it. This is something that I would really like to add to my setup.
Google Tachulator and you'll find the page, it's his trademark and is a good unit. I placed a piece of black electrical tape onto the very back part of the spindle and then mounted the infrared sensor to the end gear cover in the appropriate position. I'll remind Brad to film it when we do the next round in the shop
I’m asking about the stuff that was in the bucket at the start of the video. You said Purple Power, but later said Evaporust. So I was confused about what was in the bucket.
Did this get finished? Clicked on part 5, only to figure out it was the lathe, and not the shaper. Watched the first 4 back to back tonight... Need my fix.
Hey Jaye - I need to get back on it for sure. The pieces are still at Tim's shop because I got really busy with my machine shop. In the past I've (promised) to get back on it - and I will. But maybe the fall? It'll happen you can be guaranteed that since I won't leave my machine in pieces - especially a South Bend :) Thanks for your viewership and support, really appreciate it.
Beautiful glass finish but I draw the line when if the factory didn't paint it that way then neither do I and obviously they didn't smooth the casting at the factory.
Yes please. Where did you get the display with all those functions? I am a hobby guy and have hooked up my millrite to a Lenze VFD, so I understand VFD at a basic level. What is the box size and how did you make that face?
Picked up my SB 7" this past January. I "rescued" it from being parted out by the Ebay seller. It was almost totally disassembled. The guy stopped when he realized it was above his pay grade to do so. I reassembled the machine and identified the areas that needed reconditioning/repair.. "autopsy" of the machine homicide I purchased. Brief list, well used, ram had about .0005" of wear in the middle of the parallel bottom ways. Drive pinion gear shaft bushing approached .003" . This is my 1st South Bend machine and I have gained a great appreciation for the engineers and machinists. And McMaster still has most, if not all, the necessary materials to recondition these machines. My pump was missing a ball bearing in the plunger of the oil pump. Copper tube for the oil system, Easily soldered and replaceable. Mine had a stress crack leak in the ram way joint oilier. The adjustment valves are simple efficient taper valves similar to the non-ball style gas valves. One thing I did not hear you mention was South Bend's use of tar pitch as an oil seal. The areas I identified where all on the column. Makes sense, it's where the oil is. Behind the cover of the pinion drive shaft cover on the starboard side. The drive shaft (thinner diameter) was used to press some clearance into the pitch after a dollop was melted onto the small aluminum cover was put in place. Also on the oil pump bosses that attached the pump to the column. And lastly on the aluminium "gutters" that direct the oil drip of the ram ways back into the column and on top of the plug for the saddle height screw in the column under the front area of the ram.
Great video! The team approach rocks. What color did Tim paint his South Bend? It looks a lot like the Celeste color that Bianci painted some of their bicycles.
Ted- it's a custom color. It's a very light blue bordering on grey. Under some lighting it looks more mint but it is a blue color. I like it because it's nice and bright but not white. White is a terrible color on a machine in my opinion.
Did you not show it going back together? You didn't show taking it apart either.... All you showed was cleaning and stripping paint, that's the least interesting and skill-less part..... I wanted to see how the mechanisms worked and went together.... Total bummer.
Does this guy ever finish a restoration? I was hooked on the south bend 10k restoration and you abandoned that project. Now I got into this shaper restoration series and you stopped this project. I get it, life happens and other things take priority, but it’s been 7 fucking years and you haven’t picked it up again. Clearly you do have the time for other projects since you have posted many videos since, but not to finish this job. If you can’t commit to completing a restoration series then don’t start one.
This guy has completed 3 lathes (2 heavy 10’s and a 9a), a drill press, a mill and some other rebuilds/cleanups of a surface grinder and rotary table. Then this guy opened a business and hasn’t found the time to go back and do fun stuff since I’m too busy working a day job, moving from the basement into garage, then getting CNC’s. Oh, then I had to shut down the business because I was growing and wanted to move into a new house that had a bigger shop. I’ve spent the past year insulating, plywooding, painting and running massive amounts of electric & airlines in the new shop, all in a frenzied attempt to not loose too much momentum for me business. I plan to be operational first week of April where I will resume my business. The good news is that the shaper WILL be finished. The parts are all sitting on a dedicated bench and ironically - I ran the electric for it last night! The 10k (was) abandoned so I could buy and restore my old heavy 10 - (which the video series IS on and WAS completed). So yeah man, life does “fucking” happen and I’ve been prioritizing my business over fun restorations. But hang in there, the shaper will be done. Think of it as that long waited album from an artist who everyone thought broke up. 😊
Definitely not enough school as he spelled much wrong also. If you sooks don't like the way he creates his own videos, please, feel free to upload your own to share with us all so we know how its done. No??? Didn't think so.
Your nuts for doing that..... your high build primer would do so much better. Tape off areas . 2 or 3 good coats of primer, flash between coats. 220 sand smooth. Another coat of primer. Wet sand with 400 grit. Look for pin holes. Fill if needed. Seal it , and paint. I paint show cars dude.. That guy doesn't know what he's doing.
South bend (themselves) would grind the castings (before the war). There's nothing (wrong) with this approach. This guy DOES know what he's doing and his body of work speaks for itself. His lathe, his Fan Restoration business. His portfolio speaks volumes.
BasementShopGuy yes the seams and any rough spots. Not the hole casting. I have a SB 9x48 lathe. Casting date is 1923 . Lathe is late 20s build. I see no signs of grinding.
