A tip for printing with PVA, you can set cura to only use PVA as a support interface(support interface material). This will make the supports print in the main material, and only switch to PVA for the interface between support and model.
I've just set up Cura for the Sovol SV04 - never used it (Cura) before now (only used PrusaSlicer). Where do I find those support interface settings in Cura? Also, do you have any recommendation for brand of PVA? All I've found here in Canada is eSun and Polymaker.
@@kennethshock Hoping you found these settings, but for anyone else (like me) who is/was looking for those, it's under advanced settings on the drop down in the upper right of the screen, where you would normally just have the toggle for supports on/off, choosing the advanced options allows you to set the print interface to one print head, and the support body with the other. Easiest way to test this is to slice a print and hover over the "volume used" section of the slice report. If it shows you very little PVA used but far more PLA, your settings are (probably) correct. I haven't done any actual real world testing on this yet as I haven't purchased my SV-04 yet, and the setting names etc. are all pulling from memory. However, I did set this up once, and for a large (2.4kg) print, there was something to the tune of 4g of PVA used to the 2.38kg of PLA used. So I suspect my setting was correct. I'm still going to do a test print of course.
The issue of blobs on the vase mode print looks a lot like what other printer reviews have reported was caused by power recovery feature resulting in a pause every so often to write the current progress down. Other reviews of various printers have noted that disabling the power recovery feature with a G-Code command allowed vase mode to print perfectly.
I should also add that one reviewer said that switching to a faster SD card also had success in reducing that blobbing, because the pause for writing the power recovery status was reduced.
Note: It is NOT an all metal hot end. By "all metal extruders" they mean the extruders are made of aluminium without plastic tensioner arms etc. They still have PTFE lined heatbreaks.
Yeah I have been looking online for about a week for an all metal throat tube to replace the sv04s throat tube. The Diameter of the SV04 throat tube is an 8 mm. I am convinced that the SVO4 is the only printer on the planet that uses an 8 mm throat tube. Unless you guys know of where I can get one I would be very appreciative because the titan extruder housing requires an 8 mm diameter whereas the largest I could find is 7 mm. And while I’m at it the SV04 Titan extruder tolerances are incredibly loose and I am constantly either getting jams or little to no extrusion at all. Is there any way to increase The E steps.
Sovol started supplying a custom made bi-metal heatbreak a few weeks ago. Check their website. When I got my first SV04 last year I added bi-metal heatbreaks before even turning it on by sleeving the heatsink bore down to 7mm (search thingiverse for SV04 metal heatbreak). I don't have an issue with jams (3 in a year on two SV04s, all filament abnormality related). As far as I'm concerned e-steps are fine out of the box.
hate it when they tell u that it is all metal and can print 260c and then you find out that your not supposed to use the tubing at 250 or above lololol almost a deal breaker knowing i will wanna microswiss it to print cf nylon and cf pc
I print pacf and pccf all the time. Standard extruder, just a bi-metal heatbreak and good nozzles (ruby on one machine, tungsten carbide on the other).
I have been using this printer for 9 months now. (I got one from the early units made available in July 2021) My unit is not a all metal hot end. It has a 20 mm PTF tube next to the nozzle The only really issue I have with this printer is the painful process it is to replace a nozzle and the PTF tube. You have to take apart the entire hot end. My current plan is to fix this by getting the new Revo unit from E3d. Other than that this printer works really well after you fine tune the slicer as mentioned in this video.
I just got one and I'm having weird trouble with the dual mode. I flashed the printer and display with latest and using the sovol-branded cura (figuring it should work as well as shown in the video) but I can't get the right-extruder to stay aligned, it's always like a millimeter or so to the right. One thing that happens, that I figure can't be good, is when I start a dual print, once the right-extruder does it's first layer, it first goes all the way to the left and slams into the parked left-extruder, before carrying on its way.
This printer would certainly be a nice addition to my toolshed. I've been looking for printers that don't produce a waste tower when printing multiple sorts of filament. Thanks for the review!
I got the SV01 version just over a year ago, and I've been very pleased with it. It too had stringing issues, but after some tuning in cura, I was able to fix that. Mainly with retraction speed, and Turing off Z hop. Your linear advance video helped me set that, which has further solved the stringing. Also, I'm surprised about the power supply, Sovol use to make a point of using Meanwell PSU units, which are high quality, and the fans are temp controlled.
I've created some new profiles for the sv40 that improve speed massively. I regularly print with these settings on my sv04. Open C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura esources\definitions\SV04_Dual_Mode.def.json (or one of the other modes you are interested in) and change the following parameters: "material_print_temperature": { "value": 200 }, "speed_print": { "value": 90.0 }, "speed_infill": { "value": 120 }, "speed_wall": { "value": 45 }, "speed_wall_x": { "value": 60 }, "speed_wall_0": { "value": 60 }, "speed_topbottom": { "value": 50 }, "speed_layer_0": { "value": 40 }, "speed_print_layer_0": { "value": 40}, "skirt_brim_speed": { "value": "speed_print_layer_0" }, This nearly doubles the speed of your printer and has no bad side effects. The increased "material_print_temperature" at 200 is to enable flow to keep up with the new speed settings. Let me know if this works for you too - I've been extremely impressed with my SV04 after changing these settings
10:24 I find ASA prints easier than ABS but if I dont use an enclosure then I have to use brims to keep the part from detaching. 90c or hotter might have kept it adhered but I doubt it wouldn't have warped a little bit anyways. I've used abs juice and all the other tricks but warping is real regardless of your bed adhesion. Enclosures are a must for good quality without libations for this class of filament, in my experince.
PEI Sprinsteel bed and adhesion with ASA is perfekt for me. I even have to check that is does not adhere to much. I find ASA one of the best to print materials, and it always looks very nice. sadly its very flexible and threads are weak
I love mine! I bought one of their remanufactured units for under $400! Was like new and worked well out of the box with some adjustments as mentioned in the video.
Great review. If Sovol would spend a little time on the software and profiles, they'd have the best IDEX I've seen reviewed so far. I've been keeping my eye on IDEX for awhile but will let it mature a bit more before I dive in.
I have to be honest, this printer looks quite amazing...perhaps to the point where I'd buy one and sell my Sidewinder X1 to a friend, as this looks like it does everything my Sidewinder does plus a ton more. By the time I'm ready to do all that, I suspect there will be a lot of community-sourced updates and upgrades to address the issues you found.
i have a sovol sv01, had to increase the retraction to 3mm and everything was fixed, these printers can handle high speed prinitng and reallly print better then the average ender 3 can do
@@--Zeke-- Speaking of getting the X1 working...mine suffered a failed bed cable. It didn't burn my house down, thankfully, but I don't have the stones to try and fix the bed heater wires on my own and when it went down it was honestly only slightly more expensive to buy a new printer (a Sovol SV06 Plus) than it was to replace the bed and wires.
I’m intrigued. For my side gig, I print a lot of small ornaments. So the ability to double production without doubling time appeals to me, as does doing PVA for better detail of the underside. Certainly got my attention for a next printer… yet I’m already running three: Creality CR 10S Pro, CR-6SE, and Prusa i3mk3S
I have the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro IDEX. It's a great printer. Most problems I see about these IDEX printers is due to people not aligning the extruders properly They set the height on one extruder then try the same on the other, then wonder why the printer hits the bed, or knocks the print off the bed
@@richardbennett8678 What I mean is. They set the bed height as normal by moving the nozzle (E1) to a point over the screw, then adjust the bed knob to raise/lower the bed to the correct gap (usually paper thickness) Then they do the same for E2, using the bed knobs to set nozzle height. Instead of using the adjuster on E2 to raise/lower the nozzle to the proper gap I have found using a feeler gauge is far more accurate in getting the nozzles aligned
The blobs in vase mode often times come from power out resume function (every time the printer is writing it's current step in Gcode to the sd-card the printer pauses for a short time)
That is absolutely what I found with the SV04. Vase mode creates those little bumps when power recovery is enabled as it constantly pauses to write to the SD card. As vase mode is a continuous line that constantly adjusts the z-axis, the writes happen more frequently than a normal print. Also, since it is a perimeter line only, it is impossible to hide the bumps by timing the writes during corners or infill. Adding M413 S0 to the beginning of the Gcode when you turn spiralize mode on (vase mode) will clear up all of those bumps. One negative though is that it seems that the writing to SD card is linked to the time estimate on the display, as any time I shut off power recovery that feature stops. Sorry for rambling, it's probably more information than anyone cared about regarding bumps on a vase!
I've found that vase mode blobbing and microstuttering like you saw is almost always caused by brief pauses when power loss protection saves the layer changes to the SD card.
I have seen that too. The reason it affects vase mode in particular is because the firmware sees each Z move as a layer change, and that's all moves while spiraling. Non-vase mode prints have the same stutters just at the layer changes, where it already paused extrusion.
@@luizgoncalves5113 Alternatively you can lower the resolution of your slicing software. CNC Kitchen's advice worked for my ender 3 pro: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hvw3DrVAeTA.html
I agree with all your points, especially with the Cura profile. I tweaked it a bit and found decent results. I'd like to collaborate with you to find the best settings for this machine if possible.
I think most people don't spend time adjusting the slicing profile after receiving their printer. There is no perfectly suitable and constant slice profile. It has to be adjusted according to the model to print well. As you said, the machine is indeed a good one machine, but you need to adjust to the appropriate slice profile, this is completely free, you just need to spend some time to understand and learn
I'm still waiting for the jadelabo j1 idex printer. Kickstarter Printers should be send out Soon. A Review of an earlybird would be Nice. I see potential in this printer, when it fulfills the promises.
I actually bought this printer a couple of months ago and it mostly works great. I had some issues regarding the filament runout sensor, where my filament got tangled up. And I also didn't manage to flash the firmware, but I think I did something wrong.
I still don’t understand why this kind of printers haven’t gained more traction, these are absurdly amazing to print figures in one material and supports in a second material, like soluble or PETG over PLA which will offer zero gap at the interface with absurdly easiness to remove them.
One flaw with the copy mode. If your bed is warped to any extent, the leveling mesh will not compensate for the second extruder. And warped beds are a common problem with this printer. Check the Sovol forums and other groups. Customer service is also slow to reply. I am currently ghosted on my bed replacement :( @3:47 the leveling in this video shows significant variance in the center.
Holy moly that X offset was way off in the beginning! We've always hated printing those line patterns. We're now selling our camera tool that helps streamline that process. If you're curious to test/evaluate one, let us know!
Great video and explanation. It looks like best machine I have seen to manufacture a slightly larger part from petg. Would you agree or could you recommend another dual extruded 3D printer with a larger build plate? Thanks for you time.
I have it since January. It’s a good printer with a lot of features. But the way the bed ins constantly going down, how the z offset is made, the firmware and the profil are terribles…. I am still looking for someone that has a real good cura profile for it… And someone that have a good firmware to put into
Interesting. I print utilitarian stuff and two extruders would be handy but... What I would really like is a printer with a larger bed. No not square and I don't care about it being 50' tall I want something like an ender3 or CR10 size bed but twice the length.
I remember on the ender extender group (Facebook) that there was a person that hacked together their extenders with extended beds. So you got 300x600 or something crazy like that. It just took a custom cut bed and mount, etc. But the problem becomes weight and slinging that sucker back and forth. I so wish the folgertechs were still made. With updates in linear rails, stepper drivers, boards, and LDO motors etc, it could be a nice "big" but low option (1200 x 400 x 400?). As is, you almost have you almost have to custom build, the plans are out there. The next solution would be a Modix big printer (1200x600x600) but then you are at almost $10k and climbing but it is still a "kit" printer.
Look for printers with conveyor belts and the vertical part at an axis. There are several recent ones, and they would sacrifice the length of one axis but another axis becomes almost infinite. You could print a long sword or something. Or they could print small things over and over and they fall off the "bed" at the end of the belt...
I liked the serious mention of the included belt "tensioner" xD Also what are the odds? I was looking at this printer a few weeks ago, but ended up getting a tronxy xy-2 pro which I'm gonna be running a chimera hotend on. Hoping it will work well for printing 2 colours/filament types. Dreading the z offsets though o.O
So i just watched this video and I'm very interested in a dual extruder printer. Are the updated profiles available for this printer now? Or do you have a better printer that you would recommend?
Maybe the printer you tested in particular had some temperature offset by which each print was printed at just a little too high temperature. Perhaps if you would have repeated some test prints stepping down 2.5 - 5 C the stringing, and oozing, could be resolved. I've seen numerous other videos of the Sovol SV04 whiched showed no stringing or oozing.
Quite curious, do you try measuring the bed temp using an external thermal camera/IR thermometer? I noticed that on my very ancient printer, to hit 90C i need to set it to 120C... But it sticks really well on paper tape once the temp is hit.
I'm having a problem with extruder one gear not rotating correctly when the print head goes beyond +/-230mm on the X axis. It starts to jump as though it is slipping and sounds terrible. I've moved the print head one mm at a time to try and pinpoint exactly when it starts happening, but it changes each time. That makes me wonder if it is a firmware issue? I first noticed it with a print last night. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Great video as always. I search out your videos to increase my 3D printing knowledge. I've had this printer for approx. 4 months. The only real problem I'm having is the extremely slow print speed. Is there any way to increase this speed. In the Cura profile it says that the print speed is set at 60 mm/s, but it seems like it's much slower than that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The artifacts on the vase may have been caused by some sort of resonation from the motors? Possible to due with the table the printer was on, or a slight vibration of the Z Axis. I've had the same problem before in vase mode, and an adjustment of the lead screw nut and some lube fixed it. Could be the anti backlash nuts as well not liking the constant Z raise of vase mode?
Nice video. I'm yet to buy my first 3D printer, but I'm finding myself drawn to the IDEX types. This one looks good, but I've seen that all IDEX printers have issues with the levelling of the 2nd print head thanks mainly to uneven build plates, leading to irregularities or failures in the 'copy' or 'mirror' modes. So, I was thinking....after levelling the plate and print heads as best as one can, both manually and automatically, could one not print one very large raft with a dissolvable material with one head, then use that as the 'build plate' for copy and mirror modes?
it's too complex as a first printer, get yourself a cr10 s or v3 and learn then move up to index. it can be very frustrating learning index if you have zero experience of gcode and 3d printing. Have fun
@@spiritburners Or perhaps just get this amazingly inexpensive dual head machine and just run the IDEX in single head mode until he learns those basics which you correctly mentioned he needs to acquire. When I bought my first printer 5 years ago, a Robo R1+, it took me about a week before I was wishing for a way to print multiple colors. My SV04 is arriving this week and I'm excited as hell about it!
@@jims6450 That is true, however it really is way more complicated, the setting up of the machine must be perfect on both heads and that can be difficult for a new user to fully grasp. You also need to be able to build 3d models where you require different colours or supports, again complicated and needs 3d modeling experience, also just slicing is not as straight forward as just pressing the button, you need to think a lot about how you want the model to look and feel and the strength of it if it's that sort of model. It can take a couple of years of printing most days to fully get your head around Cura or Simplify3D, it just depends if you want to use the printer to print ready made models or in my case use it for prototyping, making signs etc . That really helps once you start the dual colour and different filaments process. I wanted it primarily for the ability to use soluble filament for difficult parts that I print, also I can't be arsed half the time to change the filament on a sign because I forget despite Cura beeping at me., then end up leaving the print cooking for a hour or two before I get round to adding the other colour.! That will make life easy, as most of my prints are not too big I relish the ability to print two at once as well. I did look at the Creality Mill but it requires a huge amount of setting up and there are issues with some of them, it also just needs so much time to maintain it in perfect operation .I think you really need to love those ones or you just like pain... If you are competent then yes you could use it as a first printer if you understand additive engineering, 3d modelling and so on, but as an experienced user like yourself it would be a lot easier to use because you already fully understand how the process and workflow happen. I just think for additional colours learn how to use a big CRS 10 or V3 and learn Cura properly asto when to add the other filaments in, the lack of Bowden tubes on newer printers makes it so easy now to change the filaments. To summarise, it could be used as a first printer but with a steep learning curve however I would still suggest a Ender 3 o rone of the others to learn the process as you can do a lot without a IDEX machine . Its a specialist printer for special jobs that are difficult to do on a normal printer but not impossible .It speeds up your workflow for prototyping work a lot. It really is good fun so enjoy and I hope it arrives before Christmas for you !! Have a good one... Neil.
The ptfe tubing was cut short at mfg. See my thingiverse listing for a printable cut guide. It has a permanent void/gap inside the hot end when tubing is short.
Just got this but been having major issues. First was major underextrusion. Did estep calibration and hotend PID tuning and still had issues. Noticed when manually extruding 100mm of filament the filament would stop extruding for a split second. Have tried a bunch of different things, higher hotend temp, slower extruding, esteps, pid, etc. No matter what, it seems to stop for a second on each hotend. I literally just got it so if I need to take it apart to check ptfe and other internals thats a bummer. Had same exact issue with the SV01.
I recently got the SV04 and really like it so far. I have not noticed nearly the extent of stringing shown in the video..... so I can only assume they upgraded the firmware? I'm also wondering though about the stock print speed of 60 mm/s and if the printer can handle any faster. Are there any other adjustments to increase print speed. I've seen similar speed tuning recommendations for other printers but none for this one yet. I understand the dual extrusion takes longer, and its worth it for that when you want the dual colors which is awesome.... but was just curious if anyone had found any.
Actually I printed another 2 color print and now I'm having a lot of stringing :( Has anyone since found an updated SV04 firmware where this has been corrected? I'm everyone reading this would be interested.
I have had this SV04 machine for a month, and CANNOT get it even close to the levelling bed. The Z axis will NOT go down past about 3 inches from the leveling plate. I can manually (when off) wind it down to the board, but when I turn it on, it thinks home (Z=0) is 3 inches above the plate itself, and will not go down when pushing the z axis down. I have flashed the firmware, tried putting head down right tot table, but nothing works. The probe goes from blue to red, if that helps. Any help would be so much appreciated.
as usual awesome video. any chance you hav instructions on how to get the usb connection to work on this printer? I just got one and the sdcard slot is not working and I'm not having any luck getting my pc or mac to connect to it. being thats its a creality board I would assume that this would work like the ender 3 with a raspberry pi but since the usb isn't working thats a no-go so far.
At best it would double production rate from 1 item per X time to 2 items per X time. Printing 1 item with 2 extruders doesn't work to speed it up, just to use multiple materials/colors. Printing with 2 extruders at the same time on the same object would risk having the extruders collide and would require far more complex firmware to handle that, setting up all that would cost a lot more time than just printing with 1 extruder at a time.
I'm looking for tips with PVA buildplate adhesion. I've tried reproducing your results on my Sovol SV04 and can not get PVA to stick to the bed; the nozzle ends up ripping up parts of the print and I get a sticky mess. Do you have any advice?
Is there any way that you can ask for the SV01 Pro Unmodified Firmware to be uploaded to the sovol website? As of right now there is no way to modify the firmware as they are using a GD32G303RET6 on newer Creality boards. Not sovols fault but annoying to try to increase the max hotend temp if you install a all metal hot end like I have. Being marlin FW it should be released with the source code anyways. (Correct me if I am wrong). Thanks in advance for responding/trying to help.
My experience with this printer isn't all that good. (I like it's mechanical design though.) First of all, their firmware isn't open source at all. I had to ask them three times nicely to only get the binary of the FW V1.1.4 that my printer came with. They've told me explicitly that they are not allowed to send me the source code. The source that one can download, is only the basic non modified Marlin. The problem is, that this printer has some serious problems interpreting G-code properly. I didn't test it with their version of Cura because this is not a requirement for a properly designed printer - it does understand G-code. For example: it freezes if it gets a wrong character in the g-code stream. It forgets which head it's using after Z move. It makes half a second pause on each transition between planar move and Z move. You are not allowed to have ABL G29 command in your code or it will forget home positions and which head it is using and start slamming heads against each other and against the sides. It doesn't take the Fnnn parameter of the first G1 move, you have to write it in a line before. Randomly skips some commands... There is a community improved firmware out there , so I will try to install that.
Hi, good video on idex I already built one, now I want to upgrade to dual idex printer I want to use 4 extruders and 2 nozzles, I want to use 2 in 1 out hotend, is it possible? What are the settings need to modify in marlin? Please help
Can you help me with setting up my new Sovol SV04 in Super slicer and does it have the same paint on colors like Prusa Slicer does. Having some issues setting this one up.
Yeah, it's not just yours with the crappy cable job. The side ribbon cables are just as bad, as they stick out nearly a few feet when the printer is homed.
How does mesh bed levelling work with two nozzles, each needing different correction 🤨 Does it calculate correct z movement for each motor to get both nozzles at correct height, use average mesh value, correct only for one of the nozzles, or just ignore the mesh...
Hello, I print dual mode with two materials on SV04 and sometimes do not print from the second extruder.. Seems that the printer forgets to print some layers. Do you know if it could be a problem with some specific settings in sovol slicer? Btw after calibration dual prints look very nice.
I have the issue of the right extruder parking and hitting the left extruder during printing and causing that layer shift. Have you found where to change that setting? It happens the first time the right extruder starts and all of my dual prints that I have sliced are doing it.
Many people I suspect. A lot of folk want something that is plug and play to print out their miniatures etc. rather than spending hours calibrating everything to the last degree.
When I bought my Ender 3 max, I used the untweaked profile in PrusaSlicer and it worked well for a long time. The only downside was that it is quite conservative on speed, but the print quality was better than a lot of much more expensive printers I've seen on RU-vid and buying a printer with such a large build volume and low price meant I wasn't expecting speed. I'll admit I've never reall used the Creality Cura slicer and profile supplied by Creality but I'd already installed PrusaSlicer (which had a Ender 3 profile supplied) before the printer arrived just to see how it worked, when I tried the Creality supplied version once and didn't get on with it at all. I guess Slic3r fits my expectations more than Cura, but I suspect thats a very individual position.
It looks like it maybe able to. This is from the Klipper website: [dual_carriage]¶ Support for cartesian printers with dual carriages on a single axis. The active carriage is set via the SET_DUAL_CARRIAGE extended g-code command. The "SET_DUAL_CARRIAGE CARRIAGE=1" command will activate the carriage defined in this section (CARRIAGE=0 will return activation to the primary carriage). Dual carriage support is typically combined with extra extruders - the SET_DUAL_CARRIAGE command is often called at the same time as the ACTIVATE_EXTRUDER command. Be sure to park the carriages during deactivation. See sample-idex.cfg for an example configuration.
IDEX in this case is going to be limited to only 2 extruders compared to the XL's 5, but it does allow you to use both extruders to print at the same time while the XL can only use one at a time to print.
