@sovol your company is literally trash, customer support is joke, your "after sales engineer" aka "may young" is lying cunt. All your company does is make shit ripoffs of legit printers.
Hey jb. I started watching your videos when I got into drones. And by your "recommendation" I got my sv01. That was several years ago now. I recently picked up the sv04 and lo and behold your here to save the day again. Thank you for the years of knowledge. Thank you for continuing to do what you do
Just picked one of these up, and have been watching your fpv content for awhile man. Thank you for being the goat, I could listen to you explain things all day haha
Thank you so much for making this video! I just bought an SV04 and trying to set it up now. This video made the hot end offset very easy to understand.
I have two IDEX, one out of the box Weedo X40, the other a modded Ender 3 Max. The out of the box Weedo has just worked great and I’m sure the Sovol will be a solid printer once it’s dialled in. The Ender was a great technical project but effectively is only setup to do a copy print which works great and saves a lot of printing time. Dual filament printing is good and quite novel. Copy and mirror print is the main reason I have two IDEX printer. I will say my experience with the Weedo has be very good where others seem to have issues.
The filament sensors work just fine. Cut a short piece of filament at a 45 and try placing it in the sensor at a rotation of 0, 90,180 and 270 degrees. When I cut my filament the lowest point of my 45 is to the front left of the machine and it goes in the first time all the time. Good luck
Printing and aligning the combs is always kind of an annoying process. We have a camera tool for making this easier - let us know if you'd be curious to try it out!
I swear I get better results eyebaing the tram on my single head machine. Idk.... finnaly gunna assemble my sovol04 tonight, super hyped. Thanks for the vid !
@@redherring5532 I'm not sure what everyone was fussing about. It was MABEY a bit awkward. But mine unboxed and setup no probblem and i had little to no issue with the 2nd head offsets.... just take your time and double check your going the right way and it shouldn't take more than 30 min to get dialed in. And personally I do SOME 2 tone printing and I love the machine regardless, but it's so great for multi material parts or technical prototypes... Idk, not for everyone But if you have a use case for it.... 300% worth
Thanks JB, I am a very new 3d printer (youtube university training) just go into it for drones but seems really cool so i have run 8 rolls of filament so not much but still had a lot of fun
Thanks for the as usual detailed explanation and instruction. Love your videos. After watching this I think I'll simply stick to having the occasional 3D printed part done by a firm like RDQ for appx $20 more or less! :)
The initial setup with paper is always followed by first layer adjustment. So I only really heat the bed for bed level and then tweak the first layer.Teaching Tech and others are a great source for beginners.
I wanted to point out, in case you're still having trouble with those filament sensors, that if you have the filament really straight and not curved, it goes in much easier.
My left extruder is now nicely calibrated and I've used the auto z axis level. My right extruder won't lower any further and still doesn't hit the bed..
Just built my sv04. I can't seem to lower the z low enough. It does raise and lower extremely slowly. It around 1 cm. Or more to high. I don't know what to do.
I have had this SV04 machine for a month, and CANNOT get it even close to the levelling bed. The Z axis will NOT go down past about 3 inches from the leveling plate. I can manually (when off) wind it down to the board, but when I turn it on, it thinks home (Z=0) is 3 inches above the plate itself, and will not go down when pushing the z axis down. I have flashed the firmware, tried putting head down right tot table, but nothing works. The probe goes from blue to red, if that helps. Any help would be so much appreciated.
Long time experience after one year? I'm pretty dissapointed from the sovol, after using it about 4 weeks. It turns out pretty quickly it has major shortcomings.
I been watching your videos for a long time now and I have learned so much. Now I am stuck. I need advice, help,suggestions. I purchased a Biqu b1 a few months back and it prints great out of the box. I wanted to try idex printing so I found there idex upgrade kit on Amazon. I received the kit installed all components and upgraded to the FM bigtreetech suggested. Now comes the problem. I try copy,mirror and idex mode and it all just went Bazar, the original X axis (X0) and the added X axis (X1) move totally different than each other. When in copy or mirror. I try a cal cube and X0 prints at Y= 20mm Z=20mm X=20mm however the added X (X1) prints Y=20mm Z=20mm X=10mm It seems that X1 prints at half of the x0 (I feel it maybe in the steps) the board is a skr2 Is there away to adjust the (X1) steps or anyway to text? If you or your viewers has any suggestions I would be greatly appreciated and thank for your time
The "center dip" bed has always been a problem for these Chinese bedslingers. No matter, Creality, Sovol, etc. sure enough there's a 0.3-0.4 dip. Seems impossible for them to fix. Using mesh bed leveling allows you to at least print a good first layer, BUT this amount of unevenness decimates parts accuracy. When your print is on the slope, you get vertically skewed prints for a few degrees as your printer try to compensate, especially noticeable on small tall prints. I'd go with a smaller printer (flatter bed) or some special bed system like the Prusa XL.
Thank you for the excellent video The SD card that I received with my sovo4 is corrupt and can not be read. I was able to set up and print using you video but do you know where I can obtain a replacement sd card or download the files? It is not on the sovol website. Also I did not receive the two purge buckets. Can I buy then from you?
Just got this but been having major issues. First was major underextrusion. Did estep calibration and hotend PID tuning and still had issues. Noticed when manually extruding 100mm of filament the filament would stop extruding for a split second. Have tried a bunch of different things, higher hotend temp, slower extruding, esteps, pid, etc. No matter what, it seems to stop for a second on each hotend. I literally just got it so if I need to take it apart to check ptfe and other internals thats a bummer. Had same exact issue with the SV01.
Hi. Thanks very much for the video. Question though, what if I cannot lower extruder 2 nozzle enough to scrape the paper? The knob won't go any tighter and allow me to drop nozzle of extruder 2.
I got an issue with the 2 extruder at dual mode, when finished the printing, the extruder collide together whatever which come last , do u know what happen and how to solve it? One more thing, there have better way to set the xy offset, at the office website , there have a video show that use a 2 layer square stl file merge together , which is easier than using the comb file, the stl file is included in the sd card come with the printer.
When I hit "home" to home the printer, it's trying to move the print head too far on Z, such that it's hitting the bed and grinding on the motor, at which point i immedially shut the power to avoid damage. Help? Thoughts? I'm probably an idiot on this, so that's a given... anyone help a guy out here?
Joshua, I got my SV04 used from a family member. It was never used but the acrylic setup blocks were not with it. What is the length of the setup blocks so I can make a set myself.
@@JoshuaBardwell So it does not matter how high up the vertical supports I level the cross bar as long as it is square to the table? Is that correct? BTW thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
My problem is there's no up and down arrow to adjust the nozzle anywhere...there's only a left or right Z arrow. I have the exact same one though. Been trying to search online for an hour , so frustrating
I am trying to do the offset calibration on my sv04. I don't see the file for the combs you print. Under calibration there are two cubes. Did Sovol change to that instead of the combs?
The 20mm calibration cubes are not what you want. I would be surprised if they got rid of the comb pattern but I mean you're looking at the SD card so either it's there or it isn't. This print might work for you? www.thingiverse.com/thing:4565745
Hi Joshua, thanks for the video. The problem I’m having is that even after doing all of that, the mesh leveling is not activating during the print. The offset values for the mesh are clearly shown in the menu, but they are not applied during the print and therefore the nozzle drags in some places and not others. Have you noticed this while printing? It’s almost like the G28 in the start g code is eliminating the mesh. I’ve tried a million ways to fix this issue. A G29 in the gcode tends fix this issue, as I can actively see the Z axis compensating, but causes it to crash one of the extruders.
I did not put G28 or G29 in my start gcode for this printer. Sovol has the load mesh etc baked into the firmware I think. You don't need to do anything special with it.
@@JoshuaBardwell that’s because G28 is already in their slicer start gcode by default. But what I’m asking is have you noticed the mesh actually compensating while printing? If printing something large, like the size of the print bed, I still see all of the height variances and I can tell the Z motors aren’t moving while printing, but with all of my SV01 printers the Z motors actively compensate for perfect first layers.
@@JoshuaBardwell Okay thanks, I guess I’ll keep doing some research. No matter what, my mesh refuses to enable and I end up with first layers that are too high in the middle and too low on the outside of the bed.
technically you could load 2 STL and set each to a different color. this would print both models but one after the other 1 layer at a time. This would not be faster than printing each independently and likely slower even, but it is possible.
So what do you do when you have a corner that can not be raised anymore and still wont allow me to do the paper manual adjustment on the back right corner.
@@JoshuaBardwell I have done that a few times. Luckily i found the issues was the springs they provided. So I swapped them out. However, I am having more of an issue of printing the calibration more than anything. I can print everything else just fine, thats the only file I have to use a glue stick for. Haven't had to pull them out in forever.
I have a couple of complaints about this video: The first is one that I have not heard any clarification on and still remains a mystery to me: You talk about the issue that almost everyone faces when you do the 4 corner points and then come back to center point 1, only to discover that the nozzle no longer drags because the middle is lower than the corners. At about 8:30 you say "Unfortunately, what you think you would do at this point is go back to the menu and adjust the Z offset, but that's not going to work...", which tells me this is the WRONG move. Then at about the 9:05 mark you quickly say "If the center is not dragging we are going to adjust the Z offset from the menu until it IS dragging and we're going to continue.", which contradicts what you just said! The other major issue I have is that you do not pre-heat before leveling which clearly is a misstep because all of those precise micro measurements are affected by the expansion of the materials after they warm up.
The issue with the center being low after leveling the corners cannot be solved by continuing to level. You just have to get things as close as you can and then let auto bed leveling handle the fact that your bed isn't flat. You can stop after leveling the corners. You can level the corners (to get the bed as square as possible) and then re-do the center one more time. It's up to you. Either way, it won't be perfect and auto bed leveling will have to sort it out. The real answer is to have a flat bed. Some people put strips of aluminum foil under the low parts of their bed to raise them up. Personally I just let bltouch sort it out and it seems to give me fine results. Regarding heating the bed, I don't think it matters if you do this before doing the center and corner level, because the "piece of paper" method is extremely crude anyway and just gets you into the ballpark. As I say later in the video, you should always watch the 1st layer going down and manually tweak the Z height based on how the filament is going down. This is ultimately how you know if the Z height is correct, no matter what a feeler gauge might say.
Hey there, do you plan to make a video on the sovol slicer ? I know how cura Works but I would be very interrested to learn how sovol slicer works. Especially when you combine the dual extruder for 1 printing.
