If your tires are rubbing on your Jeep, spacers might be the way to go. This is an installation video for all you diy Jeep owners out there. Here is a link for 1.5" spacers for the Jeep Wrangler: rover.ebay.com...
Getting ready to add my 2” spacers tomorrow! This vid helped me be prepared for this job. Great catch on the stud brackets! I woulda def missed that and scratched my head, thrown some tools and yelled at the air to try to figure it out. You just saved me from the embarrassment from my neighbors, lol.
Really should use locktite (red) when installing the spacer nuts. I do understand the thought on future removal, but the last thing you need, is to have any of the nuts backing off during in-service.
Take it from a retired ASE Master Tech, never use RED thread locker on wheel pins or what everyone calls lug bolts. You will need an Oxy-Fuel torch and a SnapOn long breaker bar & 6 feet of pipe for a cheater bar. I would personally crush you RED bottle of thread locker if you need to service the parts behind the rotor. You might as well take it to an auto auction and sell it. I would apply anti-seize between the steel and anodized aluminum plus the lug bolt period. Buy a torque wrench, learn how to use it. It is torque on the bolt threads that hold it on! Do you use RED thread locker on head bolts for an engine with high compression? NO! Read about galvanic action! In the absence of oxygen, thread locker becomes a solid. The bottle is designed with tiny holes smaller than the thread locker but larger than molecules of oxygen allowing it in. I truly hope you did not miss that period of the only free tax-payer funded school where teaching (The sharing of information and discussion of the subject & practice occurs; like the periodic table of elements) are important to learn. Please tell me you went to school? Home of otherwise? Yes! DK, ASE master since 1978.
@@truckerrickakamanowar If you use high strength Red thread locker, you are not moving the nut, only making your torque wrench make noise. Nothing moves! ASE Master Tech since 1978.
My .02 use blue locktite on spacer side studs. You do not want those coming loose. Check torque after 50-100 miles to make sure they have not backed out. Use your molyb for the wheel studs but really not necessary
I almost commented to use a wire brush instead of the sandpaper then you broke one out. 😅 Plus the comment "as you know I'm quite lazy" really got me. You're my kind of mechanic. Backyard style man.
I have a 2013 jeep wrangler sport 4x4 and I just put a set of 285 75 16 AT tires on it and have no problem with rubbing but had to redo my speedometer and do away with my low tire warning. I have the 3.6 V6 and 6speed trans.
Please use Blue Loctite. And check the nuts on the adapters-spacers after everything gets hot. Maybe 25 to 50 miles. Then check sagain around 200. After that 1000 miles. Red loctite is too agressive for this application. Unless you decide to not take them off. Blue is perfect. Good video Mike. I wouldn't use anti-seize on these though. These work great when properly installed but man oh man can they be a nightmare if not.
You are so right on the Pentastar. I always wondered why it sounds like nuts and bolts at start up. I use synthetic oil thinking it might help. Nope. My 3.8l sounds as smooth as a sewing machine.
Late response but generally speaking unibody cars will have a lift point on their pinch seam, and a couple other places like the transmission crossmember and suspension mounts. Body on frame cars like jeeps and some trucks and most stuff made before the nineties will have a frame and you can stick a jack pretty much wherever you feel like along the frame. Cherokees are sorta between the two, in that it is a unibody vehicle but the unibody has rails molded into it, and you can lift it on those rails. You can also cradle the axle in a wood block with a cutout and lift from anywhere you can get a jack to fit.
Really helpful video. My Jeep is my daily driver and is primarily an on-road vehicle with lots of country road driving. I cannot get large tires as that would kill my mileage. A wider tire is all I need to strike a balance. And no, you're not lazy (just heard the remark as I was typing this comment).
Not sure about the anti seize on the lugs but I think red loctite is a worse idea. I rotate every 2,500 miles check lugs after first 500 miles. I have never had any come loose. I however use anti seize on the hub flange. Thanks for the vid.
I like the fact that you cleaned the mating surfaces b/w the hubs and the spacers. One thing to keep in mind is that spaccers/adapters add unsprung weight & the car will not be accelerating as stock.
Ever 100 miles your going to need to retighten the spacers if you use anti-seize now if you used red lock tight only first 100 mile will you need to check them then every rotation just a quick check.
NEVER use anti-seize on your lugs when installing spacers!! You want the exact opposite for the spacers and should always use red Loctite on the threads that the spacers will be tightened to!
You take them off 3-5 years later when service is needed. Good luck! You have obviously not not on these only installed them. ASE Master Tech, 38 years mostly dealer! I know better. Call the manufacturer and as them…
@@John-uo1qf I think they call it cheap insurance or CYA. Both... Only heat removes the amount of Red Loctite I see guys on you tube use on threads. WOW. I won't use it on the lug threads or between the spacer and wheel flange. I have seen dealer techs break studs off trying to rotate tires using a cheater bar. Anti-Seize does not vibrate loose but does transfer heat. Blue or green after the nut is torqued is adequate to hold the nuts clamping force once properly torqued. And those nasty colored torque sticks. And factory, like Buick, Ford, Honda, in the salt-belt with corrosion, their wheels stick on the wheels center hub and some are horrible to remove. Pry-bars with pipe extensions or 5 lbs hammers are used on a hardwood block to remove frequently. No Loctite at all used here! Ever! DK, ASE Master Tech since 1978.
Not sure about "very hard" but absolutely you are correct it does create a greater load on the suspension components that was not in the original design. 1.5 inch spacer is not really excessive either so I think the additional wear is minimal. 3-4 inch spacers though you're asking for trouble in my opinion.
Didn't you read your instructions?you should not be using anti seize on those first bolts.you should use thread lock.i know you said rookie but you could get someone else hurt because you need to watch not make a video you have not done before., safety first . otherwise good job for first time
Where’s the Loktite? You need Blue Loctite, its removal with hand tools, but would prevent the spacer from vibrating loose. Do not listen to this person.
Hi bud. This is a few months since your vid was downloaded. Nut I am hopping you got rid of the Spacers. And I also hope you met someone that knows something about safety and Jeeps. Even a little knowledge is more then you know! Get yourself a honest mechanic!
The biggest issue is the steering geometry is out the window. It affects the wheel bearings too. I’ve been a licenced mechanic for over 30 years. Never use spacers or mess with offset.
Installing spacers is even dumber then installing outer axle seals. Every inch that the wheel moves away from the hub puts about 800lbs of pressure on the bearing, upper and lower ball joints and pretty much every component of the suspension. And you will be lucky to get away with wheel hubs failing, because I’ve seen people mess up their axles and even differentials. Rims with a lower backspace are much better and safer option.
A rim with less backspacing is exactly the same as using a spacer. The wheels are moved to the same location, putting the same leverage on the axle. Spacers work fine, when installed properly.