Nice video thank you. I’ve never done the plugs in mine. Was wondering where they even were. Lol. I’m still wondering how much of a nuisance that stabilizer bar is gonna be. But am now confident I can tackle this. 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Thank you for this video. I bought the 3/8 inch tools in your link and I have the other tools. I bought the spark plugs, and electric grease from O'reilly auto parts, but they didn't have nickle antiseize like you had. The guy there said their antiseize would work, would it? I bought the antiseize from you link, too. I was able to change these myself. I like the detail in your videos.
Krystal, you are very welcome. Be careful what Antiseize you purchase, my local parts stores stock either Aluminum or Copper Antiseize. Often if the Antiseize doesn't say what it is, it is Aluminum Antiseize. When using Antiseize you want to reduce Dissimilar Metal Corrosion. Dissimilar Metal Corrosion occurs when Steel Fasteners touch Aluminum Parts, so why use Aluminum Antiseize? The Copper is better, but Nickle is the best (and highest temperature). I use Nickle Antiseize when I use Antiseize. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Stewart, Yep the Track Package, Boss, and GT500 Mustangs use a Ford recommended 5W-50 Engine Oil. I like to use Mobil 1 Oils. Mobil 1 doesn't have a 5W-50, so I have been running Mobil 1 15W-50 for 120,000 miles. I'll drive my 2013 Mustang in the cold, but not in the Salt. - Stiles
Ezequiel, For the 5.0L (as shown in the Stiles Automotive Video) 0.049 to 0.053 in. (or commonly stated 49 thousands to 53 thousands) and for the 3.7L V6 Engine (if anyone is interested) the Spark Plug Gap is also 0.049 to 0.053 in. - Stiles
Ezequiel, for the 2013 Mustang 5.0L (shown in video) and the 3.7L V6, the Spark plug gap is 0.049-0.053 in. (1.25-1.35 mm). I may not have shown checking the Spark Plug gap, but I should have talked about it. - Stiles
Grey, Yes, you can use the same procedure, however, you use a different COP Coil, Motorcraft DG565 (see this video's description and reference the other two videos) from the one shown in the video. Your Coil is very similar. And . . . you have a Different Coil on your Number 3 Cylinder Motorcraft DG566 (Remote Coil for Cylinder 3). Let me know how it goes! - Stiles Spark Plug Replacement; 2011 thru 2021 5.0L & 2016 thru 2022 5.2L Engines ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Im3TmOIGhoA.html Coil (CoP) Replacement; 2011 thru 2021 5.0L & 2016 thru 2022 5.2L Engines ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LH5FUqFEh1o.html Spark Plug Replacement Bonus Material Modular 5.0L & 5.2L Engines ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-igJ0nNC4kQI.html
stl, Yep, the Dielectric Grease on the inside of the Coil Boot helps the Boot slide off & on the Spark Plug Insulator (and helps with electrical tracking), Grease on the outside helps the Boot slide in & out of the Spark Plug Bore, Grease around the Coil Seal helps the Seal . . . Seal. And if you watch any of my other Videos that contain an Electrical Connector, you know I like Dielectric Grease to seal and lubricate Electrical Connectors, it makes them go together and (later) come apart so, so them easier. - Stiles
Chris, Do you mean the Strut Tower Brace? No you do not. As I stated in the video you do need to remove the Positive Battery Terminal Clamp (be sure to remove the Negative First!) to get to the Number 4 Spark Plug. In my videos I attempt to show you everything you need to do the task, if I don't show something, I will link to a detailed video in the video description. I list all Tools and Consumables in the video description, also! - Stiles
