i'm working on replacing the shaft seals and bearings. i pulled out the cross pin retaining bolt and it looks like the last person to work on the differential broke the unthreaded portion off and for the life of me i can't figure out a way to get it out. so, 2 questions. first, can you think of a way to get it out? if not, second, can i take the differential apart before i get the cross pin out? thanks for anything you can give me. great video, by the way.
Oh man, you wanna get that sheered bolt out? Slap it all together and go do donuts in a parkinglot! I just got back home from a nightmare drive! On my way to work (incidentally it was a Monday). Almost to my shop, something happened and I'd lost any sort of drive. I'd press the gas pedal and that magical transfer of power between engine and tire RPM just didn't happen. I poked my head under the cab and while in gear and I watched in horror as the drive shaft spun and me just sitting there. Fast forward to tonight (Sunday) I was limping the truck home off the front 4wheel and all of a sudden both my rear axle shafts just slid out from under me! I had to get towed homed. I get to wait a whole 'nother week before I get to take it apart and have a look at it, but by looking at how it's all put together I'd say that I'd managed to sheer the retaining bolt and the retaining pin just fell out from between the axles and then that big corner I took the C clips just worked their way out on their own. Probably grenaded the spider gears as well with this whole incident. It's unknown right now, but it's probably safe to say that the whole inside of the pumpkin is a total write off and it's time to rebuild the whole axle.
Friggen great video! Straight to the point, good lighting, no shaking camera. Any update on how the truck is handling now? it's been a few years since this video was posted.
How well does this work for a daily driver? Considering this locker, but does it engage smoothly on road around corners, also how long do these last. I do off-road every now and then. Any advice?
As with so many others here this has to be the best production of any auto how too video I've ever seen! subscribed! Interested are you an Oldsmobile fan? My first street car was a 55 olds 88 330/4spd auto
Great job on the video. I installed a locker in an old Samurai and it was easily the best modification I made to the vehicle. Unlike a big heavy truck, when it ratcheted, you felt it and heard it but in the snow and off pavement, the thing was a beast. It went better in 2 wheel drive with the locker than it did previously with the open diffs in 4 wheel drive.
الشباب اللي بالعربي هذا يسوي توليف دوفلوك للدفرنس فك تروس الوكالة وركب تروس فيها دفلوك ترهيم قفل للدفرنس اثناء التعليق وتتحرك كفره وحده والثانيه واقفه الان ركب تروس دفلك ولكن هوائي وليس كهربائي يعمل تلقائيا عند التعليق. لان فيه دفلك هوائي يعمل على حسب ضغط التعليق ويقفل تلقاءي اما الكهرباي فيعمل عندما يتم تشغيله من نظام السياره بالمفتاح العادي اثناء تشغيل الدبل بالنسبب للسيارات المجهزه بالدفلوك
Thanks Oldsmob. first time watching your video, great quality. I have edited lots of videos myself and am picky. your video has good audio, clear video and the content is well presented, clearly articulated and explained easy enough for someone with basic knowledge to understand. thanks again.
I have used this style of locker before. I broke a lot of the pins with a 4bbl 350 sbc in an 85 caprice. They are okay for weak motors but will not withstand a Michigan driver.
I had one in the front of my 77 Chevy k20. Dana 44 front axle. It didn't last very long,worst $270 I ever spent. It actually cost me alot more money than that to repair,plus $180 towing.2 moog ball joints $120,a used open carrier $100, used steering knuckle$50, because when it broke it locked the axle and ripped the upper ball joint out of the original steering knuckle. Used right Dana 44 axle $75. New 3:23 ring & pinion $160, bearings and ring gear set up hardware and seals & oil and a used warn hub? Probably...$125 or so. I would've just went and bought a complete used front axle for alot less if I didn't have the pretty rare 3:23 gear ratio. I went back to open diff,I wasn't about to dump any more money into my non daily vehicle. I didn't have this brand,but these pretty much all are the same basic design. They're probably ok in a lighter vehicle with non V8 power. If it breaks out on a trail you're probably not going anywhere. If I were to do it again I'd just buy a locking carrier. Way stronger and smoother operating. I'd save up and get a Torsen carrier because they don't have any clutches that wear out. And very smooth operation. My friend has one in the rear of his 01 Camaro,no banging or clicking. It feels like an open,but it's limited slip.
I love the video! I watched others that hadn't shown how the C clips go back in and I'm glad I saw this because I would have put it back together and popped the pins without them! Thanks for the amazing video and keep up the good work!!!!!
I am looking to install one of these in my 2000 f150, the open diff drives me crazy these are cheep and easy to install and i am just curious if this thing is holding up for you? does it some time or always lock in corners? has it shattered anything in the rear? thanks love the video you earned a subscriber.
after watching this great video I decided I could install the Spartan locker in my 2001 2wd F-150. In the first install I forgot to put in the C clips. Yeow. Those spring pins are not meant to be removed. I somehow eventually got them out and reinstalled correctly. I loved the differential, having both wheels driving in slippery conditions, never got stuck after that. Since both wheels are driven the same speed under power I found that in a tight turn there was a lot of bucking and displeasure from the rear end if I had any power on. But just putting in the clutch in the tight part of the turn allowed the inside wheel to ratchet and then applying power out of the turn was no problem. Thanks a million for this video. My new to me 2016 F-150 2wd has the traction control and advancetrac, both of which have left me dead in the water, immobile, in snowy road conditions. I'm thinking of putting a locker in this truck. I guess that since both wheels would then turn the same speed under power that the computer would never engage the TC and advancetrac because it would never sense one wheel spinning in relation to the other.
I have an 89 full size Bronco and live in Massachusetts so I know rust. I found this old video while looking into putting a locker in. The gears seem worn out in the rear end of my truck also, so I ordered a powertrax lock right locker (looks the same as yours). I hope it takes away most of the play in the rear end while at the same time adding some traction in the snow. Good Video. Glad there was no background music, just a straight forward how to video.
7:36 talks about measuring the space in the locker. but how would you change that dimension if you no longer use the trust washers on the side gears (if the measurement is out of spec)
If the measurement is out of spec(Usually too wide in my experience) you can use a thrust washer or two to get back to spec. Spartan locker usually has very good machining however. Other types like Aussie and lock right will generally retain the factory thrust washers, if this is a mod you choose. be sure to go over the instruction sheet that comes with your product.
Joe Pamplin It's holding up on the street and I have not snapped any axles yet. It does like to chirp the inside tire around corners. I have my doubts on how robust this thing is off road.
In looking for the longest ring gear for my 03 crew cab 5.4 2wd in traveling to Mexico central and truck have low gears any advice should be good. By the way good video keep up the good work
Great vid. when does it make the racheting noise? I'd like to do this in my ford ranger. the rear axle is a near identical set up. I'm so sick of my truck being a one wheel wonder, especially in winter.
It's definitely a noise. If you don't mind noisy daily drivers (I'm assuming like most of us, you use your truck all the time) it's worth it. Even if you don't off road, that first snow storm these lockers are the bomb. But all the 4x4 guys will know it's a lunchbox, so will most mechanically inclined folk. Don't need to worry about the wrong people thinking your truck is broken. We all aussie locked our trucks in HS and still use them now while in College, they are cheap, never seen one break or wear out yet, and they perform. I can't say anything for spartan though, they are relatively new and not many people have used them yet. Same design, it's a lunchbox, they made installation of these easier than with aussie using those removable pins.
Get my locker on Tuesday first ever taking a rear end apart we will see what happens but I feel I'm confident enough to do this job mechanically inclined enough to do and it seems simple enough I'm definitely going to take my time and make sure I get it right
The truck is gone now but the front one that hardly got used held up well. The back one would act a little strange now and then. I much prefer a limited slip carrier over this set up.
Is a great helpfull video !! I Almost was ready to sale my bronco cause when the inspection my bronco they toulme that I need change the rear differential ,, now after see this video I just go to fix it... thanks a lot for the video !!! Man congratulations awesome job!!
Really dam good video i have a 97 f-150 4.6 Pi head swap headers total seal ring new Dry film coated cams, cam journals, bearing and piston shirt and combustion coating on the crowns. 8.8 3.55 . I have differential problems and the stock traction loc differential only locks 15%, so i want to change to this system. I live in Jamaica were anywhere you drive your off roading lol roads look like a B52 just did a bomb run.
if when you pull out the axle just before you pull completely out use the end of the axle to pull out seal(turn axle so on same plane as body side panel, it will not have the seal cut and more leverage so easier)
with just tip of the axle in past seal turn axle forward so shaft is parallel with body, end of axle shaft will just "grab" seal and twist it out, does that make sense?
In Ohio, we just use a wire wheel on it and in about 30 minutes, spray paint it black and it would look like it just rolled off the showroom floor. lol
The cross pen visual inspiration fix needs to b acorn shape & u can see it at 2:32 in video, chip & dale. U will hve a round type pin only in the middle the metal slot keys both sides. A flat & round peg in a hole same. Man wearing a construction hat.
I have a lock right locker kinda the same set up except its for a sterling 10.25. When I removed the old side gears there were no thrust washers? Do you think I would need them?
+Dalton Smith Rock Auto offers stock parts for vehicles. If the vehicle had an option with a locker it would be under the applicable vehicle. If there is another vehicle with the same axle, it may show up as well. But any aftermarket items wont show up in Rock Auto. At least as far as I can tell. Like my ranger is a stock ranger, but I can get load assist shocks from rock auto because their are rangers that use load assist shocks. I cant get a turbo because Rangers didnt come with Turbo. But, I can buy a thunderbird Turbocoupe or SVO mustang turbo (under each respectively), which has the same motor, because the Thunderbird TUrbocoupe and SVO mustang's came with the turbo.
Best video of a lunchbox locker I've seen, I wondered how one of those would work in a ten bolt Chevy, and that 8.8 is the spitting image of a twelve bolt.
I have noise coming from my own old Crusty 1988 Bronco. Did not like what I saw on the fill hole plug. Looked like graphite lube. Getting noise when put in reverse and sometimes won't move until shifted forward first then reverse works. I assume I need to get the back cover off and see what is going on in there.
I was fortunate enough to growup with a well equipped shop with plenty of resources (built lots of specialty tools because had access to the steal and welder, like used impact sockets for seal and bearing drivers and weld a bead on stubborn taper bearing races to release and shrink to remove, heat draws the metal)
Is there a c clip on the front end axels on an 83 f150 4x4?? I know I should find out on my own but dont want to force that front axel out if i need to remove something first...thanks for your videos
+Richard Sturgis In my experience with replacing axles in similar rear ends (C-Clip) mechanically inclined should maybe take about an hour on the ground assuming nothing goes wrong. Rear ends are simple until you get into the ring and pinion gears.
