Thank you. I'm wanting to build a full range 3-way subwoofer speaker box enclosure system consisting of 2 12" subwoofers, 2 4" mids and 2 bullet or horn tweeters much like the old school 2-way d 3-way full range car stereo speaker enclosures of the 80's & 90's.. I want to have two separate 4ohm speaker channels and I don't know what I need to do this exactly. Thank you. I'm learning
First ask yourself what performance you want from your design. Low and high frequency cutoff points? Maximum output level? Voicing? Dispersion? Venue (home or vehicle)? Use your answers to guide your choices of drivers, crossover points/slopes and enclosure type. Be warned, unless you have low expectations you will have a steep learning curve and long road ahead of you in adjusting the results to your satisfaction, especially with a 3-way passive system. Active DSP crossovers and amp boards are now very affordable and can get you the results you desire much quicker while teaching you a ton about system balancing. Also plan a measurement mic into your budget unless you enjoy flying blind. Good luck with your project!
@@naturalverities thank you very much for your response I really do appreciate it. Yeah I'm tryina get learnt on the subject and sir you have been very helpful. Thank you again for such helping informing content.
Thank you very much for this video! Everything was presented in a clear, easy to understand manner that made sense. You have answered a lot of questions for me here.
Thank you, I like the question and answer format. Asking a question and then answering it helps to keep things organized and easier to understand. It sits well beside your more detailed playlist of crossover design videos.
I've watched your XSIM tutorial many times when building my first Xover. This is what I should have seen before I started. An excellent introduction to the topic I think!
Thanks for the tutorial. Gives us noobs a decent foundation for understanding the basic components, and the functions of those components.Much appreciated! 👍 Liked, subbed.
Awesome video! I just geabbed a 1950s Zenith Stereophonic speaker cab with a 12" alnico and a mid and high alnico. Unplugged the mid and high, one electrolytic per, and just ran the 12" strait. Sounds deeamy good and too loud to cranck up past 3ish. I want to mod it for guitar and your vid is extremely helpful. Cheers from SLC Utah!
Good explaination of passive filters. I'm surprised you didn't make mention of "active" filters and "slope" or "roll-off" of crossover filters though. I really like some of the speakers you've designed and built, the ones with HLCD's and prosound midbass drivers in particular.
I would love to see you do a ground up design and walk thru. Starting with Designing what the end product will be, then matching speakers and building cabinets and crossovers and then tuning them AND then how to put them in a room... Gosh if that isn't asking for the moon... Well if you don't do that, I'll keep watching because you always have such great content!
I really enjoy watching your videos. They are top notch and full of information that any beginner speaker builder could use. I would love to see you do a 6 way tower build using 4 -7 inch Epique drivers and passive radiators I'm looking at building a 6 way set up like this for my home theater. My concerns are lobing that comes from using 4 woofers in a horizontal center channel. I was thinking of using the Morel TM4055-8 2" tweeter and midrange combo to help mitigate lobing. I love speakers that have the ability to bring tight heavy bass and still have that snap that makes your eyes open up. Todays manufactures of speakers use such cheap drivers and want to charge a arm and a leg then they want to tell you how great their speakers are. The video where you made the the speakers using the Eqique drivers was really cool and everyone interested in speaker building should watch it.
You could do that, but really you would most likely be doing a 2.5way WWTMWW. It might be useful to spend some time on the forum or even create a new topic where we can help you out. www.toidsdiyaudio.com/forums
I love the Video!! I am right now desingning my own closed Subwoofer and I have a question: Using the Linkwitz-Transform-Filter in WinISD I tried to simulate my rooms roomgain. This caused the Cone exkursion to cross Xmax at around 30Hz. Does my room really have an influence on the cone excursion?? And if yes, is there a problem if I just regulate the low frequencys down with a very low highpassfilter? Thanks to anyone who might have an answer :) And thanks for your videos @Toid , because of you I found a great new hobby ^^
Look at cone excursion before applying the linkwitz transform. Remember you aren’t actually adding a LT in real life, that is just being added so you can visualize what the room gain might look like.
Great video, as someone interested in building my own speakers the crossover is the part that has always held me back as I want to make a 3 way center. One question is that when I was looking at drivers to buy the ones that looked good to me were made by B&C for the midrange and woofer and Morel for the tweeter but they don't have files to import into VituixCAD in order to start playing around with it. Assuming a manufacturer doesn't offer them how would you get them without buying them and measuring them yourself? Drivers I was specifically looking at were Morel CAT 378, B&C 4NDF34 and B&C 8FG64 since they were all 8 ohm nominal and ~92db sensitivity which would make for a pretty easy to drive speaker in my head. Plus that woofer comes in 16 ohm as well so I figured I could easily wire them up in series for a 8 ohm load.
That’s a good question. We can definitely help you on the forum if you want. www.toidsdiyaudio.com/forums . But they do make some graph tracing programs that can make FRD and the ZMA files that you can mess around with before purchasing. Just keep in mind that you are going to need to try to simulate an account for what you believe the offsets of each driver might be.
What an amazing channel! You really know how to teach :) Could you tell me what that software you're using is called? I'm trying to study circuit design, and that software looks amazing
This is Crazy!!!! not even joking...... I have been on Parts Express for the last hour or so, (During this time you upload this video) researching which Passive Crossover I want so I can replace the one's in my Dayton Mk402X. They are powered by the Dayton audio HTA20BT, with a powered sub. They sound great but pass way to much on the low end for the woofer to handle. What's your recommendation for a P/Crossover? Also this has lead me down the rabbit hole for a nice small 2.1 living room system thinking about the PN# 300-489 what do you think?
I completely understand, they have those speakers tuned low. Instead of doing a passive crossover, I would by the arylic 2.1 amplifier:www.arylic.com/products/up2stream-amp-2-1-amp-board?aff=4 then use their DSP program. You can add a high pass to take out the bass of your Daytons and put a low pass on the subwoofer section. Assuming it is enough power for the subwoofer. That is what I would do.
Thank you for posting this it helped out a lot, I'm just wondering how you would wire a 2-way crossover to a tower speaker with two woofers. I'm looking at the XO2W-3K for some custom towers cause I don't trust myself on making a crossover.
Hello Toids, I was wondering what would happen if I left my current crossover that I've been playing around with on xsim 5db above the woofer. Should I bring the tweeter down instead? If so, how would I go about that? Literally just learning this stuff today. I could share my crossover with you if you had time.
I recently acquired a pair of martin logan ESL electromotion speakers and for some reason, the volume output is way lower and muddy sounding compared to my other speakers. Martin logan support recommended I replace the internal power supply, so I just swapped them out and the volume is still really low. Do you think it's a crossover issue?
I know it's it's own can of worms, but I was hoping component quality had a segment. The B-roll was showing decent stuff, so definitely better than the crossovers that come in mass market speakers, but I still can't decide if these DIY kits with "upgraded crossover components" are actually worth it or not. So many people on both sides are adamant of their opinion :D Still a great video!
Toid! Have I missed the part if I want to build a new cabinet AND crossover to an 3-ways, 1983 speakers where I don’t have any information on the speakers. What do I need? UMIK and DATS?
So, what is a 3-way crossover doing to the impedance that the amplifier sees? Let's say you have an amplifier that can handle from 4-8 ohms... If you put three 8 ohm speakers in parallel, you're going to get 2.67 ohms which is too little... You could combine series and parallel, but that is just good for that one particular case... If you have 4 ohm speakers, you would need to do something entirely different... None of the crossovers that I've seen so far on Amazon or AliExpress seem to bother to list the impedance that the amplifier sees or what impedance it supports for the various speakers....
When you use a crossover, it crosses over the frequencies that each individual driver will play. by doing this, it also crosses over the impedance. So it’s not the same as running three drivers in parallel or you would get a very low impedance. I can’t tell you exactly what the ambience would look like because that’s dependent on the crossover design as well as the actual impedance of every driver. But if you’re using three 8 ohm drivers, then your final, nominal impedance should be 8 ohms.
Really enjoyed your video… And I have a question: I want to build my first set of speakers, but I have Parkinson’s… (Tremors) and have no trouble with simple connections, but I am intimidated by building a crossover. (I still enjoy woodworking… So that’s not a problem.) I’ve been thinking of going with a single full range Driver… Hence no crossover. Is this a bad idea for your first speaker build? (I know it’s a very general question) thanks again.
I think that’s a great idea. One thing I do want you to keep in mind, though, is that a full range driver still uses a baffle step compensation circuit. This is a much simpler circuit, but you will want to implement it. Here’s a video where I went over that. Hopefully it helps: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h9EdOMI28js.html
Is there a chart or something that lists what components do what at a given ohm rating? Meaning if I want to high pass at 4 ohms at "x" frequency I use these components. Etc.
There are online calculators. However they assume way too much. Such as assuming the impedance and response is flat when it is not. However, if you’re using them just for protection, they can be useful. Otherwise I highly recommend a custom crossover.
There's a book, building stereo speakers, David b Weems. It has the chart I've been using it for many years, no matter what you do,using a computer or a book your going to need a bunch of coils and capacitors, to experiment and get best performance, I suggest crossing over as close to the next highest drivers low ,/ if the tweeter is 2000k-20.000 k crossover at 2-2500 k ect.
'Passive' crossovers are exactly that - Passive. They don't 'maximize' anything, they are at their very best a reactive and subtractive filter that adds to the load on the amplifier. They also store energy and can create some horrible resonances, some audible and others creating stress on the amplifier. Why anyone would spend hundreds of dollars on passive crossovers when DSP is so inexpensive is beyond me.
The truth is that crossovers are VERY innefficeint. They introduce so much imbalance and noise and they are a band aid for the real proble3m. The answer is discrete amps to drive each driver. Audiophile hate this concept because they do not like the proposition of active speakers. Get over it. Crossovers are arguably the very worst link in the whole chain... and even with "quality components"
Ur 100% wrong...crossovers are great...depends on the quality of the components they are made of....tell d&b passive crossovers su**..😅😅.. They and any professional engineer will disagree with you. D&b use ALL passive crossovers. It cuts down on the amount of cable needed for the rig and less weight in copper in the trucks😮
The stupidest explanation I have heard for a long time! Yes If a speaker has a flat straight frequency, this is true. But no speaker has it! You can't use a universal filter! You also always have to dampen frequencies that are too much of. (rejestion filter) (notch filter)
Did you watch the whole video? When did anyone say anything about using a universal filter? When did I say drivers have a flat response and you don’t need to account for it? Did you miss the whole notch filter and resistor explanation?
@@Toid You talk too little about notch filters and you show pictures of ready-made speaker crossover filters from a shop. Loudspeaker crossover is not as simple as you give the impression of. If you want to have good and clear sound, it is not always easy. simulating it on a computer is one thing, but often it doesn't sound right. On my 2 way speaker I had to use 16 part
@@ford1546 I’m not sure how you took away from this video that crossover design is simple. Nowhere did I say it was simple and nor did I even try to show you how to build a crossover. I literally just explained the components and different orders and types. Hence why this is called an introduction. If you took the video that crossovers are simple, then that’s on you, but not on the information provided.
