If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* . I have a *new* video showing how to upgrade the speakers here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YFdReUjCeu0.html If you don't want to bother with the connector repair, I highly suggest upgrading the speakers, and you will also get *much better* sound quality also!!
@@godlyitem There no parts available at all, not even the connector itself . You could try a junk yard to get another connector, but it will likely have the same problem.. Or check out my video for upgrading the speakers which is a much better solution.
@@CleverFix you are right. i searched high and low and couldn't find anything remotely related. Will you still recommend the infinity speakers like you did the upgrade in your video?
@@godlyitem I really like them, they sound excellent for the price.. the improvement over stock speakers is dramatic. A slightly better speaker like the Kappa will give a little more bass and higher volume without distorting, but the Reference is already loud enough for me. So, if you can splurge, Kappa is great, but with the Reference you're already getting a much much better speaker than stock. Make sure to put dielectric grease over the connectors , even those connectors can corrode slightly and lose connection, which surprised me. Grease will keep moisture out and this problem won't happen again.
@@CleverFix hi, one last question before i purchase all the materials. Which connector terminal size should i purchase? there are many types. And i was also looking at the infinity speakers 6532IX, not sure if it's an upgrade from the 6522IX
Splendid! I had my windows broken from a theft in a bad area overnight and I thought the dealer didn't do a great job of replacing my windows and changing the trim around it. Ever since then... I've been jamming on my Bluetooth headset Thanks dude and great work!
Toyota repaired FL once and FR twice. Recently FL went out, they quoted me $150 just to diagnose. Who knows how much more to repair. I fixed the broken one which had corrosion in the butt connection (they did not use any heat shrink). I also went in and used the heat shrink butt connection and heat shrink on the other one. Who knows, maybe you saved me between $300 and $600 for both sides. A huge thank you! It was fun learning how to do this!
Glad you managed to fix it! It's ridiculous,.. all you guys being quotes crazy $$ amounts by dealer, just go to an audio shop and get them to install some nice Sony or good brand speakers, I think it will cost much less.. but you can also do it yourself. I'm planning to put some good speakers in, the stock speakers don't sound too great.
@@CleverFix Let me know how it goes and how much nicer speakers cost. As you probably know there is water leaking down into the speaker plug in which corroded the wiring. It would be great to move the connection to the bottom so that water cannot get into the connection.
Thanks. I just got the parts for a new video installing new front speakers. A few people have failed at this method, and even for me, one connection got loose after fixing it, the other is still good. I think it's the butt connector, a proper crimper seems to be a must. It's difficult to find anything cheap though. Uninsulated butt connectors with the proper crimper are the best option ($30-40) in my opinion after having researched it a lot! Someone reported the dealer fixed it and the butt connector failed. I suspect that's what happened to mine as well, still have to open it up, it's intermittent.. Moisture in the butt connector will again corrode the aluminum if it's not protected very well. I tried heat shrink in the video but it didn't shrink enough. With Uninsulated connectors you can heat shrink it properly to prevent moisture because they're much thinner. Good luck!.. I'll mention all of these tips in the next video.. and I got some nice Infinity speakers that should sound much better.
The dealership has quoted me $635 CDN + tax to fix corroded wires/connectors. This might be challenging to do it by myself but will try once I order all the parts.
Yeah you're not the first I hear that from. You can also consider buying aftermarket speakers and speaker spacers: www.car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK036 . Then just solder wires to the new speakers at the back, and butt-connect the new copper wire to the old aluminum wire. You'll get better sounding speakers and you won't have to worry about this crappy connector any more. It is really a bad connector, it's not only the corrosion but also the tightness of the connector onto the pin that is an issue, that's why in the video I squish it down a bit. I have one side working perfectly so far, but I think on the other side I didn't squish one of the connectors and recently I heard it go out for a second.. I might just buy aftermarkets after all. Another idea I had is to cut the plastic on the speaker connector side to expose the pins coming out of the speaker, and solder the wires directly onto the pins sticking out and cover with heatshink.., but that's a total hack..
Yeah it's a bit of a hack, it's impossible I think to undo the lower part that's actually meant to hold the wire .. It might work to put the insulation there though and still solder below, it just seemed easier to me this way.
your videos are nice as you mention all the details. Please share the procedure to remove the headliner. I want to add some dampening to the roof (to reduce rain noise). Also, it would be nice if you share one on removing the floor carpet (partially). I am planning to put some insulation there to reduce road noise.
It's quite a bit of work!! All a-pillar covers and center pillar covers need removal, sun visor, map light, room light, hand grips, weather stripping and 3 clips at the rear. For center pillar covers, all seatbelt anchors have to be removed, and for a-pillars you'll need a new plastic clip that prevent it from blowing out when the airbag deploys.. it has to be turned 90 degrees clockwise to remove. Also must be very careful working around the airbag to not puncture it. There are wires running through the headliner, I think all connectors should be in the LH A-pillar.. then you recline seats all the way, and turn/pull it out of the car from the back door. I can make video how to remove the sun visor and hand grips, those are quite simple.. maybe even center pillar covers/a pillar.. maybe there are some already though that somebody has done?
I've noted my primary door speakers cutting in and out. I was/still am concerned wires in the harness out the door were too short (a la MKV VW's) or bending too much and failing... Good to learn it's just the disintegration of the wiring!
I'm not sure if 2011 is the same, the idea of this video was for 2014+ that has corroding aluminum wire. But let me know if it's anything like this when you open yours up.. You said tap the dash.. maybe tap the door?
Thanks for this! My 2015 Auris had exactly this problem, but in 2015 the speaker contact is not serviceable, it's a one piece unit so had to cut it off and replace with standard cable shoes. I tried to buy the cable harness from Toyota but since it was for the entire door it was $450. And I have the exact same problem on both doors :(
My driver speaker cuts out like that on my 2015 corolla. I haven't done anything yet, but this video is super helpful for diagnosing the issue. It's a shame they used low quality wires going to these speakers. If I'm going to go though the effort of fixing this I wonder if I should install some aftermarket door speakers as a bit of an upgrade.
In 2-3 days I'll have the speaker upgrade video, I'm working on it now. Yes, it's definitely worth the upgrade, much better sound. Don't bother with the fix (if you can afford new speakers), .. it often ends up having an issue again later,.. the connectors are just terrible. One of mine worked good for a few months and then again started losing connection.
You're experiencing a noticeable improvement in sound quality with the stock head unit? In previous vehicles I've put in new head units with the speakers where it's obviously much improved. I haven't just done a speaker swap before.
@@Me04120 Ohh yeah, huge difference! I faded from old speaker to new speaker when I had only one in. The stock speaker sounds like crap.. the voice in the song sounded like it's at the back of the room. With the new speaker the voice came right up to the front of the stage. Basically a lot of frequencies on the stock speaker are muffled, and the "punch" / bass is not very tight.. I think the stereo quality is quite decent, and yes I usually put in a nice new headunit, but this would cost a lot.. maybe one day!! I installed some mid-line Infinitys but a pair of Rockford Fosgate would be even nicer.. The video is almost done, hopefully I can have it up by end of day.
I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla LE White and I'm in the process of fixing my speaker wire since it is weak due to a manufacturer defect. I would just get a subwoofer since I learned my lesson about aftermarket speakers. The OEM speakers are good enough.
I had this problem with a 2015 corolla. Aluminum wires failing where the connector attaches to the speaker. The best thing to do is get new and better aftermarket speakers that are not paper like Toyotas. I paid for the new speakers and install at a electronics shop You get the fix and better sound all in one without the hassle. They wire the wires in directly to the speaker with no stupid plastic connector that connects to speaker. Much improved sound. owner happy.
Thanks! I heard stories of people being charged $600 to fix this at the dealer, so I figured I'd show an almost free way to do it. It's a bit of work though. I was seriously thinking to just put in new better speakers with spade connectors.. maybe next time.
Hi, I have a 2014 corolla s. I replaced the speaker with new one. The speaker works fine but the problem is since I put that new speaker, the door lock fuse is getting blown/busted. Now, what i did is i disconnected the new speaker again thinking that it might be the reason why the door lock fuse always getting blown. Any idea or suggestions about this problem Sir. Thanks
Haha, Yup. I went from "Oh I'll just fix it" to buying new speakers for the front, then back, then I got tweeters, and now I just ordered a new radio, because it makes no sense to have good quality speakers with low quality radio..😆😆 The touchscreen was starting to have problems in a corner though.
@@CleverFix ya everything worked perfectly ! I didn't do the shrink wrap but I electrical taped the crap out of it. Ya it's weird on the audio screen in order to adjust the fade of the sound I can't click into it. But that same spot somewhere else it works weird
@@jmacedo211 look around on the forms, a lot of people have issues with the screen not responding in areas. I think it's a design issue or calibration drift in the touchscreen. As far as I know there is no fix.
The crimping method failed on me and was not strong enough. I am going to be using solder heat shrink which should work out better. I got to learn online that the Toyota Corolla 2014 model has weak speaker wires due to a manufacturer defect. Have a great day!
My corolla has same issue with both driver side and passenger side front speakers. I was repairing the passenger side, it was too corroded. While removing the lock of connecter, I broke it 😣. Can i get new connectors from anywhere??
No, you can't get the connectors only.. these cars are rare at junk yards too. Check out my speaker replacement video, new 6.5" speakers can be very cheap, and they will sound better also.. No need for these connectors with new speakers..
Check with the Toyota Dealer parts counter, someone has mentioned that they are now selling the connector only. I haven't had anyone else confirm if they were able to find it though, so I'm not 100% sure. Without that connector, it's nearly impossible to fix it properly, so the only proper solution would be to upgrade the speakers.
@@uhhTabbyOh thanks for letting me know. When I checked long ago, they didn't have them. I guess too many people had this problem. $100 is quite a lot though.
@Fix $100 cad so like $75 usd. That was 4 pieces of 8 inch copper wire with 2 white clips. Just had to attached the old and new wires. Yes it seems quite common, thanks for the video it helped me
@@uhhTabby That's not bad for a quick fix.. You're welcome. I'll let others knows they're available, I get people asking all the time. It's good they realized they should use copper!.. Thanks!
Yes I did. The connector did failed again on one side after a few months though, and then I installed new speakers. Make sure to use lots of dielectric grease, I didn't use much on the connector that failed. There is a lot of moisture in these doors, so practically every Corolla will have this problem.
Do you know where I could get a replacement connector? In my car it was so corroded I couldn't get the fixture out of the speaker and I had to replace the whole speaker and had to cut the wires from it. My only alternative right now is to buy an entire new wire harness for the door speaker but that's would cost a lot just for a small connector that I could easily splice in.
Check out my video for replacing the speakers completely. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YFdReUjCeu0.html Unfortunately there's no way to get just a connector, and the problem will likely happen again eventually. Even with new speakers, the spade connectors must be put on very tight, and some dielectric grease should be put on to prevent corrosion.. I never thought it could corrode even with brand new spade connectors, but mine has already, because I didn't put on dielectric grease on. Apparently a lot of salt and moisture is getting into my doors.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the info. Figured as much about the connector. Unfortunately I replaced the speaker with an identical OEM speaker so I still need that connector so I found an ok deal on the wire harness. Gonna wrap any exposed wire in electrical tape to prevent any corrosion this time around. Seems like a pretty crappy design flaw to use aluminum wire.
They are not available for sale. If nothing else works, you can put new speakers in, I have a video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YFdReUjCeu0.html
These connections are so weak already, I don't recommend without soldering. It will add yet another possible point of failure. If possible, I'd recommend buying new speakers that have spade connectors at the back, and aftermarket spacers to install them. That will get rid of these little pins that are so problematic.. also some people have commented that the pins were too damaged to be fixed.. so it's definitely a mixed result once you try this. I prefer guaranteed results, but I didn't want to spend any $$ on it.
What do you mean "same terminal" ? The white connector that goes into the speaker cannot be bought from anywhere, not even the dealer. You could try a Junk yard.. But really I'd recommend just replacing the speakers with aftermarket, that's what I'm about to do for better sound quality, but haven't had the time yet to do and film it. It's fairly cheap, I think around $200 I paid for all parts, and I'll have nice Infinity speakers.
Check here, there are some ideas: www.toyotanation.com/threads/front-speaker-connector-corroded.1606658/ It appears there's no way to buy the connector alone. You can get install adapters and buy aftermarket speakers as an alternative also, adapters here: www.car-speaker-adapters.com/ .. aftermarket speakers are pretty cheap and it should sound much better with a pair of Sony or something like that.. haven't tried it yet, but I'm considering it!.. these things are hardly worth fixing but I thought I'd do the video anyway for anybody that doesn't want to spend anything.
There's no part #. Some people get creative and create their own "pins" out of tiny butt connectors squeezed at one end and then pushed on. You can't even get the connector entirely from the dealer.. Perhaps an electrics store may have some pins that are very similar that would fit on top. This connection is pretty crappy problem.. So as I have said in other comments, I'd recommend people that are having big issues to consider aftermarket speakers and just soldering directly to the aftermarket speaker some copper wire and butt-connectors to the aluminum since aluminum can't be soldered easily.
This should have been simple. Solder the new wires to the old, with heat shrink tube on and electrical tape on it. Using blue connectors is a waste of time.
"because copper conducts electricity better than aluminum." This is nonsense, by the way. A fraction of an ohm here makes no difference when the speaker is several ohms. The issue is corrosion, not conductivity.
@@CleverFix I'm quoting the video description. "The aluminum wire gauge is 14, so 16 gauge copper is the equivalent because copper conducts electricity better than aluminum."
@@eyescreamcake Oh, I didn't come up with that, there are charts. see www.batteryequivalents.com/speaker-wire-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-gauge.html For the same gauge, the aluminum wire will always allow less distance to the speaker than the copper because of the conductivity. 16 gauge copper at 4 ohm goes up to 24ft, but 16 gauge aluminum at 4ohm is just 17ft for example.
Thank you very much, it's really appreciated! For some reason RU-vid did not show me this comment.. so I just saw it when I went back to this video to check something. Hope you got your speakers fixed.
