FINALLY - a simple tutorial that covers the basics without going into equipment specifics or covering only one narrow technical topic! THIS is what I came for. Thank you!
Thank you for this straight- forward explanation of TTL. It seems very easy to become overwhelmed by settings in an unusual environment! This has made the process very clear and methodical. Phew! Many thanks! Regards, Jonathan 😊
Thank you so much for this! I was never considering the ambient light exposure when using an external flash and the images turned exactly like you'd shown. Going to try and apply this the next time I rent a speed light.
Thank you! Very helpful! New to flash, just purchased the Westcott FJ80IIS for my Sony a7iv. I was testing last night and now I know why my F11 pics were black!
At events be careful with those slow shutter speeds. I am an event photographer, you get too slow now you have blurry images due to movement. Surely try to keep that shutter speed above 100, especially during those fast movements parts of the event. My sync is 250, so I'm primarily there during those run and gun moments, compensate exposure with apurture and ISO.
@@MichaelCTruth I use TTL during the event activities. If I notice over or under exposure I use exposure compensation on the back of the Speedlite. At times during the dance sequence or shooting table I will set a manual flash setting.
That was an interesting point, about putting the camera in manual, so that you only have one automated function (TTL) in operation. I often have my camera in auto ISO for non-flash use - and have to make sure I go back to manual ISO for flash work. One difficulty for manual exposure in run-and-gun work is if the ambient light is changing, such as part-cloudy days or where the room lighting is not even.
Way cool. Jamie was awesome. Love the let’s get started twirl. I’m experimenting with the Cobra style modifier or the bounce + white fan blending colour gels is important as well.
Thought for sure you put your model in black so you could explain how it will affect TTL. For those that missed it, remember that your camera always tries to make your image average gray. TTL flash will lighten black overexposing face and darken white leading to underexposed face. That’s what exposure compensation is for on the flash. Dial it in the opposite direction than your exposure went.
Thanks. His first shots were a bit overexposed due to the black shirt, and the camera overcompensated by averaging out…. 20 years ago, I got a shot of a white hare in the snow, but it was all grayed out. I should have overexposed by at least to stops. Plus, it was done on film that turned the photo pinkish with time. Oops, that was actually 30 years ago.😂
1/80th sec is motion blur territory - even with flash, with that ambient light at 1/80th, you will see blur if the subjects are moving, and at an event, they're almost always moving. I shoot events at 1/160th on most cameras and even higher if I can get away with it. Better to have a stop more grain and a stop more motion-stopping shutter speed.
Hi Jay - love your videos! One situation I run into is that I am shooting in several rooms with different lighting situations - or even hopping outside and then back inside quickly. This wouldn't give me enough time to set my camera for the ambient light and then turn on the flash. Any tips on how to handle this situation? Thanks!
Excellent video, very informative. Separately, I note in the specs on Westcott's website that the color temp for the FJ80-SE is 6500K vs. 5500K for the FJ80 II. Have you noticed any sort of blue cast when processing your files after using this flash?
Too bad they aren't making the Kobra anymore. One thing I have wondered, is which in-camera metering mode to use. I've also had problems with TTL when the subject is wearing a bright white shirt, blouse or coat.
Here's my question. When exposing for the background sometimes you need ISO 1000 or more. In these cases the flash power is too much. Shutter at say 1/80th. f2.2 for blurred background. The flash even 3 stops down is blown out. Most flashes can't adapt and cant find a better solution than using some brand flashes that can output lower
I just go with ad200 on a light stand with magmod. Horisontally but high. Ambient is almost equal to 0. And flash just feels shadows. Easy setup on one hand.
Great teaching, so didactic, simple and structured, much appreciated. But honestly, I kept watching Jamie most of the time. She's so pretty. I am surprised at her looks - my aesthetics are developed by the models and fashion in the end of 1960s, and she repeats the sentiment with her youthful vigor... To my taste, the best results in this video were in the small room with the modifier aimed straight at her, underexposed one stop.
Most modern cameras nowadays are pretty great on noise and even some of the older ones - like my crop sensor Canon 60D dslr - is clean up to ISO 800. So you adjust to suit. Use the ISO you're comfortable with. You'll just have to adjust your other settings to let more of the ambient light into your images (use a wider aperture and/or slower shutter speed). And Noise Reduction nowadays is really good anyway (the Denoise feature is arguably the best right now).
What is your WB setting? Considering the ambient light is warmer and the flash is daylight balanced (right?), how do you set your WB on the camera? Thanks!
Since he’s using flash and not natural light when you edit in Lightroom if you click on automatic white balance it should get you close. If you look at event photos on the internet some events seem to leave the white balance alone in this case casting a warm or yellow tone sort of like a filter.
I was hoping for new info, including all the new features with face detection metering etc, but no. I have never been able to get consistent light with ttl in a nightclub atmosphere. Not sure if it's all the random lights going on and off or what it is, but ttl has never worked for me. I only shoot in manual (no auto anything). Still no luck. I also do on the spot printing, so I need my exposure on point. Compensation is a joke when shooting moving people.
In some events I pick a place and adjust everything to get the best shot then ask the guest to follow me to that spot and get it done which only woks when you have the space and time. The rest of the event I’m having to adjust on the fly. There are some RU-vid videos from pro event shooters that may give you tips as well.
Your flash speedlite name ends with a dash and a letter. That letter lets you know what brand that flash was made for. Every hot shoe is NOT the same. Buy accordingly.
On viciously you're trying to sell that flash but you give sound advice. Too many camera owners are chasing the latest tech rather than learning how to use their $4000 box of tricks.
@@TheSlantedLens just to clarify - the FJ80SE S (i.e., specifically made for Sony) does work in TTL mode, right? While the other ones are compatible with all the other brands (at least most of them). Did I get this right?
I use the Westcott FJ 80IIS (Sony) after my Godox failed. A bonus is that Westcott has amazing customer service that can help you get the most out of your system.
Sorry, but this flash is NOT reasonably priced, it's seriously expensive! Love your videos but come on, it is not cheap! I was wrong! I mistakenly looked at the next model up (not SE) which is £345 in UK, found the SE model for around £200 - sorry, I apologise.
