Yeah, I do like that Siberian hitch or whatever it is called. Thanks for the spider leg setup reminder. Something I should have been using when I tackled my first tree job!
@@PoplarMechanic it’s good to see other tree guys willing to help. This is my 2nd year climbing. And I’ve asked other tree guys in my area for help but they all just laugh and say they will not help the competition. Makes me mad. So I just literally have been watching guys like you and all the others that are willing to help. Ive even started my own channel and tried to show the progress of a 1st year climber. So just wanna say thanks again bro. Really.
@@PoplarMechanic ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aOsL3mcORrM.htmlsi=aOHJBFrUm6jI-2YR this was my first poplar. Man I wanna just say you make it look wicked easy. lol. My knees was shaking on this one. But watching you has made it a lil easier.
What I've never understood and been able to find anywhere is how do you determine where to tie each end of the spider leg? Is it as simple as 'main rope' is a tip tie, and 'spider end' far enough back that it would be a butt-tie if not for the tip tie? Or put another way, both ends far enough away and on opposite ends of the center of gravity?
So basically, you want one end tied to the butt and one end tied to the tips or as close as you can to get it balanced. It's not so much where to tie it. You are looking for equal tension in the rigging line and the spider leg. That is why the spider leg is useful because you can adjust it up and down the rigging line to achieve equal tension. There are situations where you may have to tie the spider leg shorter. Example: your main rigging point is low, and the spider leg hits the block or ring before you achieve balance. I hope that helps. If you have any more questions, I will answer. But basically ya your just eyeing up the balance points
