Wow, looking back, this is still one of the most complete two video series on RU-vid.....and he was pitching the 48mm build WAY BACK THEN, check out around minute 13.. :)
Friend, is Meteor piston good for 372 xp saw compared to OEM Mahle? I mean power. Apparently the cylinders are worse? Is it possible to install 1 ring in a pile 372 xp with a new piston as before there were 2 rings ...
Hi, I was watching this video and as I have already bought the 52mm big bore kit for my farmertech 365 I was thinking to also do those suggested mods on the 52mm cylinder. What do you reckon? To be truthful I am very happy with the stock 48mm performance, but it’s more a experimental ‘thing’
I love my 372xp... I got it with it not running.. fixed the needle shut off valve in the carb.. new chain sprocket cover... bar and chain.. 32" full skip.. pushing #57 cord on it tomorrow...
Solid old saws, simple too. Believe it or not there was a closed port version that made even better power. Hard to find though & most of that stuff is long since NLS :( Have to find nuggets at old dealerships that are selling out
Just got a nice '96 model 371xp to go with my 385xp and lovin your vids. Going to try the farmer Jones /Spike special mods on the 371. I think you have just about converted me from the opposition
Great vid! You guys are the Don garlits and Smokey yunick of chainsaws!! How long before the epa destroys this little pocket of American ingenuity like they did to the auto industry?
I live in the high desert in oregon. Cutting juniper trees. 372xp runs good.. yet I have to adjust my air mixture screws for winter air, to summer air... not much just a lil bit
And I had both Autotunes and 365/372's for years. 365/372 for literally decades. After running the 565 for a year I really don't have the desire to go back the the older carbureted saws like the 365/372 series. I'll run them for "fun" when work production isn't a priority. It's a learning experience, have to "experience" it to understand I think. And with all the BS online about them from folks trying to rationalize why not to have them....the discussion gets 'clouded" I think. Fall's into the category if a person with an opinion who hasn't put a season on these saws it's talking out their azz in my most humble opinion. BUT I understand the attraction to 372, and many of the older saws. 660's too. I LIKE them. And may run them for the emotional rational...but can't make a rational reason other than I just...like them. Like the g288 NO possible reasons other than I simply want to run them. :)
hi , if i may ask... i have recently picked up a Jonsered 2171 ( a craigslist deal ,lol ) and have not yet even tried to start it; took it to a dealer to ask a few questions...... are there any particular quirks to this saw, that would need to watch for? Thanks
Damon Hart No issues unique to those saw. They are great saws. They are essentially red 372's with all the strengths and quirks. So like any saw...compression spark fuel....etc.
My 357xp has base gasket delete, dual ported muffler and slightly widened exhaust and intake ports. In your opinion would it be worth going back in and raising the cylinder wall at the transfers (aka spike special).
Awesome video guys, the sound was good. I would like to try taking out that material on the cylinder transfer area to get some more power. Also how do I know if my 2013 - 372xp x torq has the lousy nylon caged crank bearings or the good ones without taking the saw totally apart? Thanks!
Hi. I have a 372xp I put together last year using a 2016 x torque crankcase and older style 365 as rest the donor parts. I put new xpw cylinder kit on it , would it be safe to do gasket delete?
Brilliant vids. lot of saw's and knowledge. Do you know if the later 350's with the primer bulb were fitted with the better carb boot?? also do you have any tips on how to notice an air leak at early stages?
+Scott Thomson They changes to a steel clamp to hold that boot and it does work better. I made a plastic one work...die grinder a hole & slot (Did I put it on video??) and that strategy actually has worked as well. AND the price was right. But back to the question... doesn't matter the version, they all used the same boot BUT like I said the "fix" was that steel clamp.Air leaks show up in a variety of ways... hard "re-starting" when hot, "run on" or won't drop to idle when you shut the throttle. And of course a little brake clean sprayed in strategic places will let you know in a hurry as it will shut off the saw. BUT remember spraying in the flywheel area ends up it the air box and will scare you for no reason,
+Scott Thomson If you suspect an air leak starting I would take an afternoon and tear into it. Seal up the bearing cap and cylinder with 1184 or equiv. Also I've seen the "boots" wear in a few spots that hurt their ability to "pulse" the carb. And OEM boots are cheap as well. While poking around don't forget the fuel line and a carb kit. Think my 350 to 346 hybrid video covers most of it..did a bunch on 350's, the later ones better as the early one were about surviving aftermarket parts .. :)
Hi walt, will spike special work on a 365, i think these are open port and is there anything to grind? Im not sure but i had barrell off my 2065 not so long ago and i dont think it would have worked, fantastic videos by the way, a big fan from ireland!
Todd Stackpole Yea... got all the bits and pieces... just need TIME! If you have watched the video progression you can see that is in short supply. I'm going to ask Bob or Saw Troll to post a decoding thread at forestryforum.com in the next day or so...(Have a broken 1014 John Deere Bush Hog in the shop right now.....have to pull it apart. I'll post pics at some point. They are choice)
I had to pull one of those bush hogs apart a few years back....a 1018 I believe with two gear boxes/blades. Torch.... hydraulic puller.....and had to grind in places for the puller to grab. What a PITA that was. ( literally had broke one of the "bars" that the blade attaches too )
From Bob: "544 047 101 for the larger flywheel saws like 372's, non-AT 576's, and 390's. 544 047 001 for the smaller flywheel saws like 346's and 357's. "
