I have a Dumas Airboat that was not correctly painted so I plan on sanding it down and using Klass coat epoxy. I got it as a package deal with an RC nitro Hobbyco Starter box. The engine was garbage that was put on it so I doubt it was ever ran. I tryed using it on snow but the thing stuck to the snow. The paint appears to be a basecoat of some kind, not an epoxy. Now that I have a decent engine, I intend to clean up the paint job and make this airboat water worthy. I was thinking of yellow and black for visability reasons. Should It quit on the water, I want to be able to see it easily when I go to retreive it.
Add a hook to your stand to hold your gun with the hose still attached. All spray guns have a hook for hanging. Also, it's way better to adjust your gun before experimenting on your model to see if it's adjusted properly. I just spray something about to be thrown out anyway - a cereal box, empty can, whatever... Nice stand!
+3bdura7man I can't say. It uses what is necessary to cover the project. I'm satisfied with the coverage. You have to use it to see for yourself.As far as being waterproof, yes it is, absolutely.
How thick is the finished coat? I don't know. How would you measure it? I spray enough to cover and give me a satisfactory gloss, if I am using a gloss finish. If using satin or flat, again, I use enough to cover. You have to understand that some of that paint is not reaching the surface. That is not an HVLP gun.
Yellow Klass Kote doesn't cover very well. They sell a yellow primer that helps if you're going to use a primer anyway because it then takes less yellow paint to cover.
Cleaning is straightforward. I use a small amount of Klasskote reducer in the cup with an acid swab brush working around the inside. Paper toweling is used to wipe it out. A bit more reducer and I spray that through the nozzle. After it sprays clean, I break down the needle tip, cap, spring and cup. Using a round brush that came with the gun, I dip the brush in reducer and clean the inlet on the spray head. All parts are wiped with reducer and reassembled. Be sure to operate the gun after assembly to remove any remaining reducer.
Hello florret2003, can you confirm that this epoxy painting is 100% synthetic oil proof? I'm flying oldschool Nitro planes and I really got pissed off seing my paintjob changing from excellent to bad orange skin after some flights ;-(( To avoid this the next time I try to find a better solution. What are your experience regarding doing the basic paint with acrylic and just covering with klasskote? I assume that each minor scratch on the top coating will lead again to a orange skin disaster. I assume that the best way (unfortunately the most expensive way as well) would be to do the complete work with epoxy paint. Beginning with the primer on epoxi basis as well. What do you recomment? Is there something like Klasskote available in Germany or around? Ordering from the US is not very convenient, especially not if you realize that you have forgotten something to order..... Thank you very much in advance for your answers... Thomas
Thomas, you probably should contact the manufacturer about its properties, but in my experience it has held up great when subjected to 15% nitro methane fuel. Almost all of my aircraft are nitro powered. No effect at all on the epoxy paint. I have used Klasskote exclusively on all my projects, including primer when necessary. I haven't used any acrylic, but I don't see a problem with Klasskote clear on top of acrylic, but I don't see any advantage in using two different types of paint on one project. I would just stick with one product to avoid any problems. By the way, generally I don't use primer on models. It just adds weight and I found it unnecessary.
