Getting a sprayed on finish with trim, doors and cabinets with a brush and roller. Professional brushing and roller tips. Tools used in the video available at Paint Life Supply Co.: paintlifesuppl... Paint Life Secret Code: PLSCODE
Been painting for living for 9yrs, and to be honest, this is where I get all my pro tips and what to use or try! Always learning something or "brushing" up on my skills here
Im a painter at a high end Hotel (the Windsor Court) and we only use Benjamin Moore advance for all our trim. Your right about dry time i keep my room temp around 68. Great video!!!
I love your videos brother! Every tip or trick I have tried from you has turned out to be the best, and I have made it habit. You are the man! God bless you and your family!
Great videos you post. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks, especially with trim painting. I cant stand roping results I use to get on trim, you helped me do a professional job now. Being a retired from mechanic trades, I am learning a new trade in painting. Keep up the great stuff you’re sharing.
Awesome! I went thru the list of your videos a while back and came to the conclusion that you just don't ever brush on paint! Lol! I knew you did as an obvious paint pro but for whatever reason you didn't have any videos of you actually brushing trim. Your videos are awesome if you have an airless sprayer but I would dare to say that most home owners do not have airless sprayers . I had asked a long time ago in the comment section of an older video if you could make a video of you actually using a brush for trim. Thank you so much for releasing a video on this subject now!! Of course now it would be even nicer if you would make a video on how to get a brush mark free finish using a brush on trim!!?? Lol! Yeah , I know it would appear I'm never happy! Lol! But seriously I would bet a video on this subject would get many many views and be very popular! Just my two cents! Again thank you so much!
Some instructional painting videos mention the importance when using a brush of laying off the paint in the direction back over the wet paint. For example if you want to lay it of upward in order to reduce sagging from gravity pulling the paint down which makes good sense, then you would want to start at the top and work downward toward the floor in order to lay off with upward strokes. Wonder your thoughts. Thank you so much ! Lots of great information here and all your videos.
*HINGE HACK* I had 100 year old door knob plates that were painted over with decades of oil base and latex paints. Instead of using chemicals. I used an old crockpot(no longer good for cooking) with just water and let them slow heat most of a day. Most the paint came off with a soft cloth the rest just needed wire brush encouragement. I have pictures of the results.
Friendly tip! Hi Chris, excellent video! One tip that caught my attention was when you mentioned the paint brush about it’s performance that you like a soft filament brush! The original Gooseneck had that blend but you suggested they improve to a Stiff bristle. You at that time gave the gooseneck a 4 star. We made the changes as your recommendations to get a 5 star! I as mention to thousands of Painters and DIY need different sizes of brushes and blends! SOFT MED STIFF. 2” 2 1/2 3. Kind Regards! The Gooseneck Guy! 😊Cheers!
@@Idahopainter I’m sorry to be a pest about this, but I just realized-watched one of your cabinet-painting videos in which you reject the idea of caulking cabinet doors because the caulk will crack with seasonal humidity changes; couldn’t the same logic apply to trim?
@@Avital4414 It's different. Most Cabinet doors are 5 piece construction (Stiles, Rail, Panel) and the center panel is actually "floating", and not solidly secured to the other pieces. That panel expands and contracts with humidity and temp changes, that movement can cause paint cracking at that caulked joint (Caulk is not glue). Whereas trim pieces are solidly fastened together (nails or glue), and therefore have minimal to no movement between the pieces, allowing both the caulk and the coat of paint on it to remain intact.
Nice work. You work a bit differently than I do, but then, you're the professional, although I've done ALOT of side jobs and everything always turned out fine. However, your work is very relaxed and fluid. Can't really rush anything, though I have found myself racing the clock, especially when I had to use low quality paints provided by the customer or friends and family. I never thought of back brushing anything I would have rolled out unless there was a defective or in a place the roller wouldn't reach and had to blend the two methods in a tight space. Good tutorial, and I liked your four legged helper.😄 Cheers.
Good grief im 3 minutes in & curious inwhich sanding setup you have?? Phenomenal, Initialy, was interested in the supreme brushes for interior trim paints that tend to drag, or dry very fast? I believe its Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Acrylic..thought of adding oils...thank you, fantastic channel
Depending on temperature BM Advance requires 16-24 hours to cure before a recoat and if you’re painting before installation and handling trim or doors, they recommend a 3-5 days to fully cure and attain strength.
Thanks again Chris. I renovated a 50s house and ended up replacing all the trim. It was a shame too, it was gorgous clear grain spruce. How do you sand in old houses to abate the lead?
You are only allowed to wet sand old lead based paints, or chemically strip the paint keeping it wet again, not allowing the stripper to dry and therefore the paint drying in flakes.
@@ElvisPriscillaPresley chemically stripping is a nightmare. I tried it on that house. If I'd been able to find someone with a dunk tank I would have done it. But I think the waste disposal issues killed all those guys off.
There is no safe way to sand lead paint without a massive investment in PPE, containment barriers, venting, air scrubbers, and the time to learn how to properly use it all, or hiring the guys who already have that stuff. The only cheap and safe option is to leave the old paint there, prime and patch the bad spots with bondo or hot mud (depending on whether it is wood or drywall), lightly sand the patches (this is why you primed it first, so you don't have to sand into the old paint), prime and repaint everything. If it is bad enough, you can skim coat entire walls with a lightweight all purpose mud like Plus3, but be sure you learn how to properly prepare the surfaces for mud, or it might not adhere properly and start flaking off in the future.
What’s your advice for making sure a door doesn’t stick when painting both the door and trim? Even though I wait the recommended time, my paint feels slightly tacky even after a month.
Hey Chris been watching your videos for years I'm a 30-year paint veteran here in Maryland, I own my own business just curious a lot of the painters up here we use the hot dog rollers for rolling out the front of those doors like you had do you prefer that type of small roller that you used in the video or do you use the hot dog rollers at all. Just curious. You have some of the best paint videos on RU-vid keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge Chris, I’ve learn a lot from your videos, the only question I always have is: what do you do with that glossy paint on walls after you spray or brush trim? Do you sand it or can you just apply any sheen on top? All paints will bond right? Thanks 👍🏻
Good rule of thumb, scuff sand these areas where trim paint got on your walls or other substrate where a lower level sheen is being applied afterwards. Especially if installing wallpaper, the paper won’t stick on glossy surfaces and can’t warranty the work. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me over the last 2-3 years, I’ve learned a great deal. I was using paint extender and S W emerald urathane, but it still dried too quickly. I’m a homeowner in the medical field so I don’t paint all that much and am slow. And after watching this I’m going to try Ben Moore advance and buy the soft filament brushes from your store. I was using the Purdy super stiff fat boy for all trim with some pretty nice results any thoughts? Thanks
@@Idahopainter thanks for sharing all your knowledge Chis, on this topic, what do you do with that glossy paint on walls after you spray or brush trim? Do you sand it or can you just apply any sheen on top? Thanks
Yes I love BM advance paint..although I admit I have not ventured past the OC-151 white since I'm pretty much in love with the white shade...The company I used to paint my cabinets used BM paint so when I needed to touch up spots later from normal wear and tear, I tried to cut corners and get the color matched with Behr paint...I did a test spot and it was not even close to the color or consistency...I went out and got the BM advance paint and now I won't buy any other brand..The advance is great for trim, cabinets and doors..I went with BM aura for walls ...One thing I have learned from this channel and other professionals is the extra few dollars on better paint and brushes..I used to buy the cheap paint brushes and rollers and would get line marks and not a flawless finish..Not anymore..I bought the Corner Roller plus for the ceiling that you recommended in another video and WOW...as far as brushes I love the Purdy Nylox and Zibra brand although I may try the premier brushes ...Your channel is my go to channel when it comes to painting..I hired "professionals" to paint my home and got drips marks and horrible job so I"ve had to go and redo their work using the advice and tips from this channel..,,Great store by the way..Your prices on most of your items are cheaper than if I bought it at amazon or HD..
No, that's assuming the semi gloss is water-based like the wall paint. Here in Australia nearly every client/architect/ building company I work for asks for water-based.
All the positive comments so far are people Chris knows, but to be practical on rentals you can not always use the best materials or waist time on technique’s like this, it just does not pay unless the landlord is willing to pay which I’m most cases they are not. “Time is money “.
Painters that crank out low quality work with low quality products are plentiful. Generally speaking people will treat something with more care when it looks nice.
Lol.... Anyone can paint for landlords (Onwers) like that... Go rent or if you own the sprayer and spray the whole rental with low quality flat paint!!.... Nasty nasty and cheap as hell and also doesn't hold up worth a shit!!!! But to each their own after all it is their rental.
I am founder of new company specializes in airless painting machine.we would like to send for you painting machine to be tested by you and please feed us back about machine. If you like the machine we would appreciate to make special RU-vid video about it.
Loved seeing this. Just did a trim job and did a lot of brush work on the trim. I tried the best I could and felt it turned out reasonably well, but it is hard to tell exactly what it should look like. Perhaps you could show close ups of the trim after it has dried to give people a reference so they know if their work is turning out when following these tips and techniques? Thanks for all the help and advice!
Been flipping houses and renovating rentals for 8 years (contractor for 20). Your info has been priceless and I really appreciate the extra effort it takes to record your jobs and explain the process! It's way easier to do it without shooting video, editing, uploading, etc. You have singlehandedly upped my game!
Advance is an awesome paint. I tried the reformulated Emerald Urethane from S-W this week. The satin sheen is much improved, but it still has that slightly gritty feel to it after it dries. Not as prevalent as before, but still there. No comparison to the feel of Advance after it dries. IMO. Great video Chris!
great job talking all out. I appreciate hearing what is in the mind, and going on with the body movements and such. Nice video. Excellent language around spray finish vs brush. Bridging vs Gap Filling.
Absolutely one of your best videos. Excellent commentary. I believe this is what people are looking for when watching these types of videos. Great instruction and explaination.
Ordered a bunch of stuff from your online store. Used to hate painting and don’t mind it anymore. Appreciate you and God bless brother. Awesome seeing your channel grow and get better and better!
I have trouble brushing BM advanced knowing how thick to brush it on. The self leveling works best when thinker but then I run the risk of drips on vertical surfaces. So is it better to do 2 thin coats? I also had trouble spraying it on vertical surfaces, there is such a fine line between spraying enough to cover and not getting drips. But it could be me, I am amature... any thoughts?
Hey Chris. Ive been using Dunn Edwards Aristoshield sprayed on cabinets and love the finish and durability. Trying to use the same on NEW trim but didnt feel like spraying. So i tried rolling and got a inconsistent sheen. some are up and i have to hit the nail holes and im going to try brushing a final coat on the front surfaces. im a little worried im going to create brush marks. what would you do in this case? the rest of the trim has zero brush marks (yet like i said sheen is off in some light angles). so i need to do another coat 100%
Mr Chris berry I've been painting for last 20+yrs every house I've done interior repaints and I've one had 2 maybe 3 that had the very top off the door casing painted all rest it was raw wood like it was when first put in. When I'm doing prep work if I see where they haven't been painted I stop for min and write that on my to do list 👍🏻 buddy keep rolling. From painter man 🖌️🖌️
Do you ever use additives in your paint? I just tried a product called floetrol last night gave me a couple runs that I could have prevented but man, it gave me a nice glassy finish. Used a 2.5" chinex brush, paint is Kelly Moore acryshield. This is tinted and I'm using it as a trim paint. Just curious.
I'm doing a job for a customer that pertains to this very thing. There on a limited budget. Thank you Chris for all of your teaching. You are the man. Steve Whittemore Drywall Solutions and More
Question-I’ve always thought when painting cabinets - the cabinet doors should come off, for priming, sanding and painting. Isn’t this correct ? My painter is redoing my cabinets, and not removing them, taping the hinges though. Thoughts…….
I need to get a customer to buy some advance, ive herd alot about it but yet to use it. I'll tell ya do not use Behr from home depot thats called scuff defence...its shit paint rolls ok but brushes terrible.
Great video man, I'd rather watch somebody calmly paint things with a brush than somebody spraying them. I used to dislike seeing brush strokes on trims, and would try to get an even, automobile finish, as you say; but now I don't really mind them, they leave a rustic, handmade look, as long as they aren't too visible. Plus, I gradually realized that the only people noticing those things are pro's and DIYers.
I love it that you post Bible verses with your videos! I'm planning to use a paint sprayer to spray my window frames on crank out windows. How to do keep from painting the windows shut?
Thanks for making this. How often do you wash out your brush when doing a lot of cut in or trim work? My issue is that my brush stock gets fat with paint if I don't wash it out often. Thanks.
Hi Chris, we have a paint called Johnstone's Aqua guard here in the UK. It's supposedly the equivalent of BM products. What would be you go to brush when doing window sills or flush doors? To leave no brush marks. Thanks Dan.
