I've been getting a lot of comments on my other video saying its way too long, Well here is a shorter version. Any questions just leave a comment. Enjoy :)
That was very helpful! Thank you. I watched a couple of videos on this clear coat that were very negative. Your application proves them wrong. Thank you again!
That is brilliant! I'll be using saran wrap from now on. Thank you for thank tip. That'll save me serious time on taping off with clear trash bags. Nice! Good job on the clear coat finish. Nice liquid clarity.
Love SprayMax 2K, I use it for guitars. Though for headlights, kinda a waste of the can since once activated you have a day to use it all. I'll have to get a few cars lined up and do them all at once. How is it after 3yrs anyways? Did it hold up? or a year later look the same?
Looks hella good bro. I sanded earlier today, got lazy, figured I'd spray tomorrow. That suran wrap is actually perf tho and I am 100% stealing that idea lol
Wow, gorgeous end results. SprayMax are really fantastic products, the best on the market IMO. Also, people should start clearcoating their headlights and stop polishing them, because that polishing even topped with ceramic coating won't last.
The guy knows how to spray. Always move your shoulder and keep your wrist stationary. That way, the angle you are spraying with doesn't change as it will if your bend your wrist.
Remember people don't use to much force you don't wanna gouge the plastic and make deep scratches. Some firmness is needed but to press down with your weight you'll get better results
Have you done this in winter weather. Would the clear coat develope cracks? I tried the 2k clear by rustoleum in winter, and it started developing cracks after drying
I just tried this and my first coat looks like it's running and blotchy, I'm not sure whats going on. I didn't use alot. Do you polish the light before applying 2k to replenish the oil etc?
I followed 2K application, 4 coats with 15 between, but in result I got a bit grainy or orange peel instead expected smooth and clear. 1st coat was very light. What went wrong? I think to sand it later with 3000 and polish, hope it will make it smooth and clear, while 2k to protect. how long I should wait before sanding? a week?
So I did this as you did 😄. But I have a little orange peel, would I just be able to use 2500 or 3000 and follow up with a polish? Would this solve the issue? Thanks 👍
Fantastic job my dude. After seeing your vids, I think this is the best way to recondition lenses. I bought the 2k clear kit with adhesion promotor specifically for headlights, so hopefully mine will turn out as good as yours. I can't imagine there would be much of a difference between the two products except that, hopefully, the one specifically for headlights leaves a harder finish.
I'm glad my video is helping you through your project. I'm sure the steps are still the same with the adhesion promoter, you just have the extra step that's all :)
when the product came out I reached out the sales at Spray Max. The rep said that if you are using the headlight restoration kit not to sand finer than 320 grit or the repair would last. They were testing for month and came up with that advice. He sent me the kit free of charge to try. At the time I did not have a pair of headlights to use them on. But I do now so I will be trying it out soon. The difference with the restoration kit is that it uses the special adhesion/Primer coat. I have to double check but I think they are water based. In some of there products the offer the water base and solvent base in the same type of product.
@@correya.lettsome4702 I haven't put my clear coat on yet- is this "adhesion promoter" a must for this project? How are both of your lights now after all this time?
@@SwazNasty no the adhesion promoter is specifically for the headlight restoration kitb that they had marketed under part number 3684099. There 2K clear does a good job of holding up only what you put it on . Just make sure you prep the surface properly. The 2K comes out the can at high pressure so make sure you mask off everything well. Start with a light coat. Do a second light coat and finish with a third wet coat
It is very important to distinguish between a regular 2K clear cote from Spraymax and the Spraymax one made specifically for headlights (smaller container, 250ml) I am not 100% sure the regular 2K clear coats from Spraymax has UV protection in it which seems to be paramount here. It would be interesting to know how these products are holding up over the years and how they compare. I`m about to do mine now and going to try the "new" 2K headlight formula. The Spraymax "Clear Glamour" in this video (5:23) is NOT a product made specifically for headlights so let`s at least be understanding of this fact. Never seen it in the shelves here in Europe.
This comment might be late but I can attest to spraymax's durability. We did one of my cars, an 05 Saab that had heavy oxidation. Was done in 2019, and to this day is still clear. It has held up to Colorado's Winters and California desert summers.
this clearcoat lasts about 4 years or so until it starts peeling again. i'm in the southwest where we get 115 degree summers so that may be adding to it, but if you're going to keep the car longer you will end up doing this process again.
800 G first, 1000 G next and then followed by 1500 G wet sanding to take off clear coat . Spray 2k clear coat (while wearing respirator) 4 coats with 5-10 minutes in between. Done ✅. U welcome for saving 10 minutes !😂
@@xx7024 no, our summer days range from 90 to 105 degrees daily and none of my cars have the luxury of being in shade or sitting in a garage. I never had an issue
It is. A lot of people make the mistake of going too fine when clearing. 800 is perfect for this, 1000 if you can't find 800. Anything past 800 you start relying only on the adhesion properties of the clear rather than the adhesion and physical channels for the paint to conform too. Anything over 600 will clear out, but 800 comes out perfectly clear with no haze, and is identical to anything up to 3k and a polish. 800 will give you a much longer lasting coating vs higher grits, given the exact same use environment.
@@slavwaifu5300If you bought a 3M heavy duty restoration kit, It should take no more than 45min's tops to finnish a set of headlights!! Any longer your sanding steps are to long??
Just curious ~ how long do you expect this coating to last, considering that there is hidden dirt around the perimeter of the light lens? Would it not be better to remove the headlight from the vehicle?
Yes don't put this 💩 on in the first place!! It's fools gold in a nut shell, There's so many negatives regarding this stuff it's impossible to know where to start? Two main reasons are it bonds to hard on the surface of the polycarbonate which needs to expand and contract with changing temperatures hence long term spider cracking and other damage which is permanent and cannot be removed!! Second again almost impossible to remove of this 💩 OK it look brilliant once done and the longevity is Second to none!!! Ask yourself is an extra year or two worthwhile considering the down side!! Why not use a certified approved Clearcoat god knows there plenty to choose from that are safer and generally good for headlights health, And in most products can be used again in years to come!!🤔😉😊👍
Sorry, I think I fixed that....as for the roll bar in my delsol. There was a local delsol owner who was making these. I think he made a total of 3 roll bars, sales were not as expected so he stopped making them. I reached out to him last week but never got a response back.
@@JDMGoSpeedRacer well beg him I'd buy one for sure tell him get ahold of the old sols youtube channel he would def mention it on videos get it out there is love one an I know many others would if sales weren't good it's b cause it was too long ago or it didn't get out there enough I've never seen one an I know everything about dels lol
I'll try to contact him one more time and see if hes still interested, I reached out to him to see if he can make me a harness bar....but nothing :(, might try to find someone else
No, not at all. I did basically everything he did in the video, and after sanding (before clear coat) used some meguires plastx to finish up what the sanding didn't.
@@keithroberts5611 I'm glad you reminded me of this video because I've just now noticed 2 years later that both my headlights are completely bubbled and the spray max is peeling everywhere. I did a very thorough job with this, so I have to say I wouldn't recommend this stuff.
1) The more the better, no harm in it. Use the whole can if you want. 2) You don't, spray, let it cure, wait a week, then gently sand down again then use rubbing compound to get it clear again 3) the contents of the spray will harden after 48 hours.
Looks great! However, I would suggest the following. 1. Degrease the headlamp BEFORE sanding as well. 2. Always use an adhesion promoter when spraying plastics. It's a type of primer, sometimes called a sealer. Your hard work will last longer. 3. Use a sanding block, probably a flexible one, to ensure flat sanding.
I have a question for you regarding your 3rd tip if I may. My headlights are very bumpy, round, sharply edged, (overall a pain in the ass) and a sanding block would be difficult to cover any surface of any part of this particular headlight because of the way it's shaped. Do you still recommend a block none the less?
@@SwazNasty Yes, always a block. Otherwise your finger pressure points will show up in the work. There are flexible blocks in many shapes and sizes to get into any crevice. If the spot it too small you can use a finger as a tiny block, but only for a tiny spot.
@@planchik Well the short answer is consult your paint manufacturer. But in MY case I used the Spraymax products and used their 1K Headlight Primer followed by their 2K Headlight Clear Coat and it's been over a year with much neglect and still looks great. All my friends thought they were new headlights.
@@planchik I asked that very question twice at the paint store where I bought this - they supply/mix automotive paint to most every body shop in town and they said the 2k clear had everything you need in the can including the hardener. They did recommend a few steps above and beyond what was on the tech sheet for the paint - they recommended sanding with 1k 1.5k 2k and then 3k as well as using powder-Tide laundry soap to clean your work before painting. A day or so after I get the clear on I'm going to use Meguire's headlight coating for UV protection.
@@ArthurMSoto i re-did my lights about 6 months ago. wasn't a pain in the ass at all. just used the 3M restoration kit with a power drill to sand down the existing clear coat. make sure to fully activate the 2 part clear coat can with that button on the bottom. really press that thing in there and shake it really good for a while. also, shake the can every minute or so for like 10 seconds to keep the mix fresh inside. i put like 4 or 5 coats on each headlight. should last a few years again. i think in cooler climates it may last longer, but then again, i don't know how it would do in freezing temps since i don't have that here.
There's to many discrepancys in your method to write here? But in brief here are a few first raising the hood first saving time and tape! Grit size to start should be p500 to remove old clearcoat use dry sanding not wet as water acts like a lubricant and obscures any left over clearcoat!!! Secondly p800 to help remove the scratches from the p500, After which a p3000 trizact disk By now the polycarbonate lenses should amost clear, Then a good fine headlight polish to seal and hydrate the lens, Your choice of 2k clearcoat is disappointing for many reasons and if you intend on keeping this vehicle for a few more year's then you'll find out in due course why this💩 Should be applied to headlights!! Only use products that specifically manufactured for headlights only!! My preference is Meguiars it may not last so long but when restoration comes around again which it will, Then you'll understand why you dont use this stuff on headlights!!! Nevertheless you did a grand job!!😍🇬🇧👍🤔
It is very important to distinguish between a regular 2K clear cote from Spraymax and the Spraymax one made specifically for headlights (smaller container, 250ml) I am not 100% sure the regular 2K clear coats from Spraymax has UV protection in it which seems to be paramount here. It would be interesting to know how these products are holding up over the years and how they compare. I`m about to do mine now and going to try the "new" 2K headlight formula. The Spraymax "Clear Glamour" in this video (5:23) is NOT a product made specifically for headlights so let`s at least be understanding of this fact. Never seen it in the shelves here in Europe.
hello, can you please send link of the product you have used? I would like to see your 2K clear coats specs and compare it with the one that I am using. and if you finished your headlight restoration, do you have any advises to give?
@@mybluebelly hi again, thank you for the information. Luckily, it seems that I have also bought same product. Thankfully it costs here in Slovakia only 16,5 €. www.kcshop.sk/produkt/spray-max-2k-2in1-lak-na-svetla-250ml/ I have sandpapers, polisher and polishing pastes that are lying around in my garage. I initially wanted to protect headlights with PPF after restoring them but didn't want to spend another 50 € to a good PPF for a cheap car. The reason I didnt want to use these 2K sprays because of cracking problem. You also mentioned that they are made for bodyparts and are very hard, thus in some cases they can start spidercracking very badly. In this video you can see what I mean: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F4VoNAfiGNQ.html&ab_channel=TheHeadlightRestorationPro When the other day I see this special 2K clear coat made for headlights I went ahead and bought it. If I will do my headlight restoration earlier than you I will update you about the results. Have a nice evening.
@@DilavarHuseynzade The only thing i am not confident about is how coarse the surface should be before applying the Spraymax headlight restorer. I will probably polish the lights to very fine (#2000) before applying but this is just a guess. I certainly hope this product doesn`t crack like in the video you linked. That i believe can happen if the underlying coat cures faster than the most recent coat or if exposed to high heat over time. It`s certainly some science to this so we will just have to try our best and learn from our mistakes. We`ll be in touch.
@@mybluebelly I am also planning to clean surface up to p2000. I am also planning to add this product in 3 layers, 3 later being the thickest and after waiting 2-3 days I want to slightly sand the orange peel with p2000 and polish one headlights alst time to get the the best shine and smoothness. Btw I also think that this product will not have spidercracking. This formula is specifically made for headlight by SprayMax to prevent this cracking issue. Other than cracking issue their previous 2K clear coat was quiet good.
Personally I wouldn't use any 2k products go near my headlights, I wouldn't risk it, Reasons it bonds to hard to the polycarbonate lens which needs to expand and contract over a wide temperature range, plus to many coats affecting light transmission and over heating!!Not to mention a nightmare to remove, I only use certified headlight Clearcoats!!!
seems to me absurd companies can sell these obviously defective products - aren't exhaust systems required to last 100,000 miles ? surely headlights are a sawfly feature. at minimum, inexpensive replacements should be silly avail.
That is an opinion which is wrong. Official directions from SprayMax are to go down to 2000 wet. The product is designed to bond to the polycarbonate lense @ 2000 grit sanding scratches.
Saran wrap on the face but short sleeves and no gloves. Nice try but no cigar. Isocyanites in spray max will enter through your skin and even this respirator does not do the trick. Be safe, foggy lights are better than respiratory issues later in life.
Wrong wearing a 3m respirator with a black filter will block all harmful vapours!! Stop spreading misinformation,Applying any Clearcoat spray requires a respirator indoors or outdoors is perfectly safe or in a spray booth provided one uses the right equipment how else can car manufacturers apply there Clearcoats???
Wtf lol it most certainly doesnt. Make a comparison video of them and 100% of the time this method will be the best outcome. Toothpaste, polish, and even mosquito repellant are at most a 1 month temporary fix. This will last u a couple years if not more when taken care of.
