Feed established trees at the end of January and May with a fertilizer low in N and high in P and K, 3-12-12, humic-acid based with trace elements. For young trees use a fert with higher N, and feed end of Jan, May and July. Do not feed in the fall. We use micro-sprinklers. You can find similar products at most nurseries. We have a think layer of mulch to conserve water. Wait for the topsoil to dry between waterings, around 10 to 14 days in the hottest months.
Tom, always look forward to your videos, you're my go to guy for anything fruit! This year spring's been kind to us in the PNW so the trees are looking good for us too. Could you possibly make a segment on container fruit tree management, what root stocks work best, soil, fertilizing, pruning ( not quite sure how to prune columnar apples). Thanks.
For those of us not so lucky would love to see more videos around managing significant problems with disease and insects. Maybe some field trips where things aren't going so well and how you rectify the problem :)
I have 2 year old san rayburn peach trees and did not know or understand this style of orchard care will it hurt to prune back them now in August/Sept they have almost a 1- 1 1/2 in caliper. but no growth below where I would like to have them they actually are 12 foot tall . I was always taught to only prune during the dormant time and your videos have really enlightened me to make some serious changes.
Tom i had a fig my mom planted in the 90's and it didn't recieve much care, it was blown over in Katrina but survived. laying a 20* angle for a few years, and slowly continued to waste away. when i finally decided to remove it (mom passed away so is kinda sentimental) i trimed it down to trunk and lifted it out of the ground. it had only one root, busted in half connecting to it. but i noticed two small shoots coming out the ground. i'd like to prune one and espalier the other.
Thinning looks like fun when you have a few trees to be done, but if you've ever done that day after day in a commercial orchard you know it gets pretty old....
I love your video and I am using your last year backyard orchard video as my guide! HELP! lol, I am growing pear and apple. I pruned them knee high and now buds and leave are in! we are at LAST week for last frost...and weather report said SNOW and freeze...I haven't covered them and they were fine...but now that the leaves are out....do they need to be covered? thanks
I was wondering if you can use the cut-offs from pruning sessions and graft them onto roots? or do you have to find special parts of the mother-tree to make grafts of?
there are also some older roots from the 'original' tree that have been exposed since Katrina, i'd like to pull them out too. the only reason i didn't when i removed the trunk last fall~ is fear of disturbing the shoots. i'm just deathly afraid of blowing a "second chance" with this tree. i'd like to take a cutting from the one i prune and move it. any suggestions?
Neem oil (natural). Apply as spray to affected areas or what I did is mix in watering can and apply to base of tree for root uptake as a systemic treatment. Worked on aeasonal aphid attack on black locusts. See youtube videos on Neem oil.
Do you have any videos about how to use soaker hoses on timers to water fruit trees ? I would like to know how to set up a watering schedule that I don’t have to think about . Someone said 1 gallon at the drip line per tree twice a week and three times a week during the hotter season. Thanks
That's the best way to overwater your trees. Fruit trees don't like as much water as people think. A good soak every 10 to 14 days during the hottest months is where you want to be. Let the first few inches of topsoil dry between waterings. Never water a fruit tree multiple times a week.
That depends on the size and age of your tree, and also how many hours of direct sun it gets. A deep watering would be more than a couple gallons for an established tree. We like micro sprinklers and usually run them for at least 6 or 8 hours every 10 to 14 days. So if your ground is drying before 10 days, you are not watering enough. If the ground is always wet, your tree will suffer and die.
I would second a vote for this.. I know Ed was interviewed for an article and I would like more info on potted fruit trees also. From wine barrels to ceramic. Here is that article piazza1129
