Springfield Leather Company's Helpful Hints: Adhesive Savvy 

Thanks for watching! Glad we could help! Happy leather making :)

Woohoo, happy you found something useful in here! :) Thanks for the comment!

Happy we could help! Thanks for watching! :)

Glad it helped!

Lol… that was the FIRST thing I did to my can of contact cement after I spent half an hour trying to open it up after opening it the first time, using it and closing it up… I was like, I got to find something to put on this so it won’t adhere to itself again… I use Vaseline to burnish my edges and I just smeared some it on that contact cement can lid and never had it stick to itself again…

Thanks so much for watching! We're happy that you found the video helpful. Greetings from the USA, and have fun crafting leather! :)

I love wildwood

Hey, there! Are you using rubber cement or contact cement? If you haven't already, try applying in light coats, and brush the glue straight across rather than at an angle and wiping it off the edge. :)

Hello Grant! Great question. Contact cement essentially works by binding itself together. That is why it has be put on both sides of the material. It should work quite well on rubber as the cement would be able to stay on the surface very well. Just be sure to give it time to dry for the best adhesion.

Thanks for watching!

Hi Ross. yes you can.... thanks, Kevin

Hi, Leigh! Yes, Barge cement will work for applying a patch, and you would need to apply the cement to both the patch and the area you're applying it to. However, it will rub off eventually. The patch will last longer if you stitch it on (in addition to gluing it). Thanks for your question! Good luck, and let us know if you have more questions :)

@Terry Benton I'm not sure you'll get an answer from this channel on an 8-year-old video, so I'll offer my advice and hope it helps you. The biggest problem with gluing plastic to virtually everything is its lack of porosity - adhesives can't soak into it because it has no pores for adhesives to "grab on" to. However, if you can rough up the surface of the plastic to be glued to the leather it can usually be done fairly well. It's the same reason why painters use sandpaper on a very smooth surface to rough it up - so that it has something to hold on to. But if your plastic piece is transparent, the scratches will be quite visible through it. You can try contact cement with it roughed up like that, and if that doesn't work well enough you may need to use something stronger and *MUCH* more permanent such as a two-part epoxy. The two parts consist of a resin and a hardener of which you mix equal parts, then apply to the things you need to adhere to each other. Most importantly if you tried a different adhesive first, you absolutely *MUST* remove all traces of it before moving on to something else. You have to always assume that any new adhesive won't work unless your surfaces are spotlessly clean! Good luck, and if you try either of these, please let me know here how it works out!

Hi, Emily! We would consider carpenter's or wood glue, although wood is not really our expertise around here. :) If there's any part of the rocking horse that's leather that we can help with, let us know! Sounds like a fun project--good luck and happy crafting. :)

Hey, there! For this project, you could apply light coats of contact cement (like Master's Contact Cement, springfieldleather.com/Cement-Contact-Masters-4oz) or a spray adhesive, like 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. Both of these options should offer the flexibility you want while keeping the pieces together. Hope this helps, and happy crafting! :)

First: clean the surfaces really well with vangrip, or alcohol. Second, ruff up the surface with sandpaper or a leather rougher. Third, apply 1 coat of contact cement to each (the leather and the sole) let sit for a bit until dry. Forth, apply a second coat of contact cement and let sit until dry. Finally, attach the leather to the sole, tap with a hammer to apply pressure and secure the tightest bond. Hope this helps!

Yes, that's EverTack! Here's the link: springfieldleather.com/Cement-Contact-EverTack-4oz . If you click "Show More" under the video description, there's a link to all the products in the video. Happy you found this helpful--thanks for watching! Happy crafting :)

Any way to experiment on scrap pieces?

Happy to hear it! Thanks for watching. :)

+Robert Rohan Unfortunately, there isn't a good all for one glue. Especially when it comes to fabric. You have to have a glue that isn't going to penetrate through the fabric and a lot of your leather glues will. But for leather and rubber Barge or Masters Contact Cement will work great.

I think this is a first for Rusty! LOL!

Since you are wanting something that does not adherer immediately, E6000 will probably stay your best option. We really like the HotFix crystals that have the adhesive on the back but those aren't exactly removable after they are placed.

Did you have any luck yet? I don't know if you'e able to get behind the rip, but if you can, you could glue a piece of scrap leather behind it using 'Shoe Goo'. That stuff is awesome!!! Has 10/10 in review I just read, and have used it myself. Happy gluing! ;-I

+Alexander Rex Evensen Using the contact cement on both sides of whatever you're using is vital when apply a contact cement. It will work well on both the plastic and wood with leather. :)

+Kevin Hopkins I see, thank you. I wanna add leather to a desk, so this helped a lot :)

Hi, Norman! What color is the original jacket? We would recommend adding a few more coats of paint to smooth out the red color. Thanks for your question! :)

Hi, Jackson! Contact cement would work well. Apply light coats to the chair and the patch. Reading the instructions on the contact cement will also help you with the process. If you want the patch to withstand weight and time, stitching it would be best! Thanks for your question, and hope this helps. :)

Thanks! I attached it with contact cement and I plan to sew it on later!

+Ethan Jamison That would work fine. You can use a large brush or a wide piece of wood to distribute the glue.

Unfortunately, at this point it is kind of "try and see". It will all depend on the leather and the finish it has on it. If it doesn't pull the finish off when you take the patch off you can sometimes take an eraser to it and get the rest of the glue up but there isn't a guarantee. Sorry.

Hello! We would recommend contact cement, and you will want to apply light layers to make sure that the cement does not bleed through the fabric. However, the best way to attach the patch would be to stitch it on, if possible. Good luck, and thanks for watching! :)

Thank you!!

Hi, Jack! Thanks for asking! These jars are available in 32 oz. and 16 oz. Here's the links: 32 oz. jar: springfieldleather.com/Jar-Plastic-Cement-32oz 16 oz. jar: springfieldleather.com/Jar-Plastic-Cement-16oz Please let us know if you have any issues with the links or more questions. :)

GtubeVideos What does the inside of the bag look like? Is there a liner? What type of leather is it made out of? Is it an oily leather? If you could send some pictures to me I could get a little better of an idea of what we're dealing with. My email address is liz@springfieldleather.com I look forward to hearing from you! Liz

Maybe get a piece of scrap vinyl leather from throwaway furniture and experiment on scrap wood? Experiments are great.

@Pistol Pete from 9 months ago I'm curious - did you find something that worked well for this application?

Hey, there! Thanks for watching! We would recommend using contact cement, although it will come apart over time unless you stitch it on.

Kevin Hopkins Thank you for the advice, I will give contact cement a try.

glue will ease the stress off the stitching. knee pads are a pretty serious thing. The stitching will also help keep the sides of the patch tight and uniform. you also want to smooth the leather (edge) down along the edges so the corner of the patch doesn't try to roll from grabbing onto the floor.

Hi, Nikolai! We would recommend a spray adhesive or contact cement. Thanks for your question! :)

Chrissy H. Gaps in what???? Stoney

Masters contact cement would work just fine for that.

Kevin Hopkins Thanks for the quick response and taking the time to answer my question.

Hi, Frank! Happy you found the video helpful! Thanks for your suggestion. We have started including product links in our description, but we haven't added product links to our older videos. That's a great idea. We really appreciate the feedback! :)

Awesome. I also forgot I left this here. I think I did check out some of your newer videos to make sure. Seems like you guys are getting there (to perfection). Keep up the good work.