Spyderco Trangle was my first more serious sharpener and now I don't use it because I prefer Work Sharp Benchstone however I would like to notice that you missed some functionality. When you took the cover off while sharpening you should place it back on the part where you held your hand - you'll get much better grip. You can also put spyderco triangle upside down and there are two guides for placing triangle rods flat so you can get similar sharpening to wetstone. Best regards!
I got the lankey,then progressed to the worksharp-I was never able to free hand before-with this system,ANYONE can put a good edge on a blade!(This system probably cost me over three thousand dollars,because once I was able to easily sharpen,I got into collecting)
The Spyderco gaurds are no longer brass. They are a silver metal, I assume aluminium because they are fairly light. I was pretty dissapointed about that, although I'm sure it makes no practical difference. I think the new case/base is not as well moulded as the old style which was a one piece base only. It's harder to get the rods in and it feels like the rods wobble more - you wouldn't think both those things would be true, but it seems like it is. Still works, but I think the older one piece base model was better quality.
I have all three of those shown, I will say the spyderco probably has the best stones once you buy the ultra fine. But that ends up costing 3 times as much as the worksharp. My guess is 6942
If this is something like a decision helper, you must say that there are a lot more functions such as sharpening of scissors (what Josh showed as freehand function is actually for scissors) to the Spyderco System. I use the Spyderco Sytem for over 10 years now and it is my go-to system if it’s time for a razor sharp knife. Yes, I know this is Work Sharp territory and they want to sell their products which is good. I love their stuff and plan to buy the Angle Set soon...
if you guys were to add ultra fine diamond or even get into the higher end diamond stones, I bet you would sell a ton of them. With all of the modern high vanadium steels, having more diamond options would be great. I'm sure your marketing to people who aren't on the steel nerd side of things, but if you could add more diamond options for an affordable price, they would sell great.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Especially on this system, some finer grit bonded abrasives would be sick. those venev type resin diamond stones on something like this would be insane, obviously it would increase the cost. But, no one else is doing it. You can get those stones on the edge pro style and clamp systems, but those have issues of their own. like take out the ceramic stone on the 3rd step and just add a higher end diamond abrasive. That way you could save cost by adding a better diamond abrasive at the last step and still offer something no one else is doing.
11500 units. I have the Spy and the WS. The WS has a great value and useful features. However, my problem is, it can't be used for recurve blades. Work Sharp Sharpeners, if there is a method, please let me know.
There's nothing wrong with the Lansky Turnbox. I get razor sharp edges with this easy to use and cheap system. I use it for blades up to 6' or more, it works, but you need some more strokes. With a little stroping I get my blades up to hair popping sharp. No matter, which system you use, stroping will bring your sharpening up to a new level. I bought the Lansky Master Edge System that offers a 17°, 20° and 25° angle and has longer rods, so it is easier to sharpen longer blades. It has two coarser ceramic rods, two fine ones and a triangle shaped one for serrations of different sizes and s fishhook groove. The edges are as sharp as with other vertical systems. The Turnbox now lives in my bugout bag for sharpening in the field. If you want to sharpen a real long blade like a machete, I hold the ceramic rod in my hand and use it on the blade, like a stone is used in this case. It works great.
Any tips on sharpening an Emerson with a chisel grind? Of course I figure I would just hit the one side with the edge but would I ever run the opposite side over the fine ceramic to knock off burr or is that even necessary? Thanks for any feedback. Just order the angle kit and can’t wait to get to sharpening up!
@@WorkSharpOutdoorawesome! So go through all three stones then to finish run the non edged side along the ceramic? I really do appreciate this feedback.
@@TheShamanOfShank yes, sharpen the one side and progress through your girts. You will likely have a decent sized burr (depending on steel type) that's left on the blade. To remove the burr, you can make alternating strokes on the ceramic. Match the angle on the edged side and lay the non edged side almost flat (raise a few degrees) Be patient and use light pressure and that burr will eventually come off leaving super sharp edge.
