Hey all! I wanted to leave a comment here in hopes that it would answer a few comment/questions that I don't have time to answer individually. 1) I don't have a track saw. To my knowledge most track saws that can actually cut 2-1/4" or better are quite pricey and while I would love to own one, I just cant justify it quite yet. If I had one, yes this would have been a great option provided it is a saw/blade combo that can leave as nice of quality cut as what I got from the blades I used on the table saw to begin with. 2) I have a bench-top 6" jointer. Running one long side (not end grain) over a jointer bed is a fantastic idea, and that is actually what I tried first. But my little jointer wasn't cutting it. That's how I ended up here. Edit: Depending on the situation, simply jointing the edge will not ensure that your newly jointed edge is actually parallel to your glue lines. If the edge isn't parallel to the glue lines it will be an eyesore. 3) Why I put the plywood pieces ON BOTTOM: This is 40lbs (yes, I weighed it) of solid Maple. It's heavy and awkward and takes up a lot of surface area. I am also taking a single pass on the table saw at almost full blade height. That's a lot of risk for burning, excessive blade tooth marks, or the possibility of a slight wiggle on my part which results in a bad cut. As I stated in the video I wanted to take as little material off as possible, so this needed to happen with only one cut on each side if possible. Putting the waxed plywood pieces on the bottom reduces drag and lightens the load significantly, decreasing the amount of effort required to push this monster through the saw while giving me the best chance for a clean and precise cut. Also, the overall height of the cutting board plus the ply left not a lot of reference area at the top, against the fence. Doing it this way ensures that I have good, solid contact and reference the whole way. If you are cutting material that is not so tall and heavy, you can definitely use this method with the plywood piece on top. In fact I think I actually talked about this in my Uses For Double Sided Tape video I did some time back (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IPor0NC_I34.html). At least I think I did. 4) You cannot square off of a convex or concave reference. I tried to explain this in the video but it may not have been clear. You must have as close to a straight/jointed edge as possible. You have to. There is no other choice. It's physics. Or geometry. Something like that. 5) I don't have a crosscut sled big enough for this project. You guys have to remember that this glue up is roughly 27" x 21". That's a big ass crosscut sled, and to make one that would fit a 27" cut would be unwieldly. "Oh don't play dumb, you just cut the ends on the sled". Right. Except that once again you cannot cut 90 degrees from a convex or concave reference. If you were just to throw it in a crosscut sled (even if you could actually cut 21" wide boards in it), you would still need to joint one edge first. 6) Somehow there is a notion that one should simply have on-hand a sliding table. I assume that most of these comments come from folks outside of the States where this is more common. Sliding tables are fantastic and a nice luxury to have, but not common in the States. Using the method I showed is more reasonable for most viewers of my content and applies to a wider range of table saw users. Also while there is a sliding table attachment available for my saw, I do not have the room for it currently. Plus it would have been a pretty boring video if I just threw it on a sliding table and cut it. Not much value there from a problem solving/learning aspect.
mdmlastprophet.com/the-time-for-the-schism-in-the-church-is-almost-here-and-you-must-get-prepared-now/ When things were at their very worst: 2 Suns, Cross in the sky, 2 comets will collide = don`t be afraid - repent, accept Lord`s Hand of Mercy. The first sign - the Earth will spin faster. The second sign concerns the sun, which will loom larger, brighter and begin to spin. Scientists will say it was a global illusion. Beaware - Jesus will never walk in flesh again. After WW3 - rise of the “ man of peace“ from the East = Antichrist - the most powerful, popular, charismatic and influential leader of all time. Many miracles will be attributed to him. He will imitate Jesus in every conceivable way. Don`t trust „pope“ Francis = the False Prophet - will seem to rise from the dead - will unite all Christian Churches and all Religions as one. One World Religion = the seat of the Antichrist. Benedict XVI is the last true pope - will be accused of a crime of which he is totally innocent. - banking collapse was deliberately masterminded by the Antichrist - Antichrist will step in and create a false peace in the state of Israel by joining them with palestine in an unlikely alliance. - „He will recite extracts from My Teachings, which he will passionately proclaim from every secular stage in the world, until people sit up and take notice of him.“ The Book of Truth mdmlastprophet.com/arab-uprising-will-spark-global-unrest-italy-will-trigger-fall-out/
I really appreciate videos like this where problems or mistakes are figured out. At least for me, I can watch all of the videos on how to do something the first time, but all of that knowledge ends when something doesn't go as planned. Videos like this really help me. Thanks!
Just the way you apply the tape helped me a ton. I am constantly fighting the end of the tape to separate the backing from the tape. I truly had a lightbulb moment where I was like “Duh, you idiot you been doing it wrong for 10 years...”
Working on a personal project and have a piece of oversized material. Immediately thought of your video and watched it again as a refresher. Thanks again for the work around.
As usual, very helpful information and useful methods. For a beginning woodworker that’s only been doing this over a year, I watch and learn more on your channel than anywhere else. Thanks you sir.
Omgosh! You are an excellent teacher. Please keep teaching the very basic details. Other videos usually assume you already know the very very basics BUT we don’t and have no one to teach us. THANK YOU!!!!!! Keep the lessons coming please
This is great. I just built a jointer jig with a similar idea as yours. What I have done is to install a t track into a piece of MDF that I then put clamps into to hold down my work piece. Double sided tape though does come in handy.
There is a super simple fix to your issue. Crosscut Sled!!! Shim the board against the crosscut fence and create a straight edge, then rotate 90°, cut, and repeat. I use my crosscut sled to square up ALL my glueups, so long as they fit on my tablesaw.
Or I could just do it the way that I did it and not have to have an enormous crosscut sled taking up space in my shop. A sled big enough to cut 27” is ridiculously large.The whole point is that this can be applied to a lot of different things, which will come in handy for some people watching.
@@InspireWoodcraft you are correct about a sled taking up space, however most of us watching need a sled as our tablesaw is far inferior to what most youtubers have. Most people I have watched on RU-vid have 2 sleds. One large one, possibly without a back fence, so they can cut wider pieces, and one smaller one so they can do narrower pieces and not have to slide a big piece of plywood back and forth. If you are against sleds for whatever reason, then you should have stated this in your video. You could have simply said you don't have a sled, and this is something you came up with to use in lieu of a sled. Also, you put the pieces under the work piece, which makes you need two. If you would have attached it to the top, then you could have used one and achieved the same result. Another method for achieving a straight edge is to use a jointer. Most people would need to build some sort of jig to hold the piece perpendicular to the fence, so this isn't idea for most people.
@Charlie Odom I did say in the video that I didn’t want to make a giant sled for this one task. You might have missed it. Also in response to your other thoughts, I just wrote a detailed comment covering all those very things. People tend to be glossing over the whole point of this video. It happens from time to time. Anyway look for the pinned comment. Should be at the top of the list. I explain all of those thing there.
Thanks for this tip. It directly helped with a problem I’ve had with squaring up stock without any 90° corners. I put a small spacer between the cut piece and the fence. Then placed the cut piece up against the spacer and taped the guide piece on top of the cut piece flush with the fence. This is a really simple way of squaring off the the guide piece.
This video saved my oversized cutting board project. Until I found this, I had an out of square board that needed a juice groove. I would have ruined the piece if I couldn’t get it square. One small tweak, I used the painters tape and CA glue method for attachment of scrap plywood. So glad I found this and will remember it for future projects.
You are brilliant. Great practical tips as usual. Your videos are like an instruction manual for how to do things, without the latest/best tools. I rewatch a lot of your work multiple times, and actually try them. Excellent content. Keep up the great work!
Good lord, you are way more intelligent than a lunk like myself! Very good idea, and it seemingly worked like a boss! Great thinking! Not in a million years would I have thought of doing this. Seems so logical and practical in thought process too. Excellent piece sir!
Not sure until I try it but, you may have solved a big problem for me with this video. I have a design for slightly less chunky farmhouse tables. Nothing fancy but as it turned out, everything about the construction has to be dead-on accurate. I thought the tops would be the easiest part but I ran in to issues similar to what you had here: trying to square and needing a very clean final cut. My design has the tabletop edges even with the legs. Easiest fix would be to just have overhang but that isn't the look I'm trying to achieve. Fairly recent subscriber and you have provided a lot of useful tips so, thanks, and good luck with everything.
Wow, I wish I found this about three days ago! I needed to do this exact job for a maple butcher block; I ended up hand-planing one end like you were trying to avoid. As always, you provide the simplest, and often most accurate, solutions for tricky situations. Thanks for this ingenious tip (I'll make use of it next time)!
Excellent technique, but still technically limits you to 3’ workpieces with a 6’ level, no? Straightedge on the workpiece allows longer stock to be straightened.
Great idea for the crosscut! You could have also only used one straight edge if you attached it to the top instead of the bottom. Also, on the long edge or rip edge, do you have a No. 7 or No. 8 jointer hand plane? A few passes with one of those would have produced the straight edge you needed as well. Well done!
That is an excellent technique. Thank you for sharing. In my shop I have a large table saw sled with one runner. I mostly use it to the left of the blade with the workpiece between the saw blade and the fence, which is closest to me. For large pieces like your cutting board, I flip the sled 180 degrees and move the runner to the right miter slot. The fence now is just shy of the blade, and the workpiece is between me and the fence. With the sled in this position I can easily square up pieces as large as your cutting board.
I don't know how often you are wrong in "real life" but you aren't showing it much through the camera. ALL you videos are well explained and truly good, i would say often genius. Don't be so hard on yourself. Keep it comming.
Great tip, great save on the project. Another cool tip/trick that you didn't even mention: tons of sawdust on the shop floor makes it nice and cushy under foot...
Very smart, but the best cutting and strongest cutting boards are the ones facing end grain on top. I've seen A 200 years old horse stable with a parquet floor (end grain up) in impeccable state. Love your work. Thanks for sharing.
That worked out very well. And your explanation was quite clear to me. I have used the same teknique to straight line boards. And it can work even if the work piece is longer than the fence. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2021 and stay healthy.
Thank You for the video. CMT blades are razors. I'm proud because they are from my country, Italy. The top of the range are che Orange Chrome series, but they are full kerf ( 3.2mm ) .
You only need to tape one piece of plywood on top and push it against fence. If fence is not tall enough, either tape another strip under the first plywood or cut a rabbet on it to over hang. You can also push the concave edge against a straight edge against fence if the straight edge is more than double the length you wanna cut.
Using the straight edge trick only works if you don't mind if your lines are perfectly parallel to your edges. Cutting a rabbit and taping more plywood is the same amount of work, if not more, than what I actually did. Using the plywood underneath instead of on top takes the weight of the material off the table and makes it much more manageable.
Use this technique quite a lot for my offcuts to get them square. Not used tape, but hot glue or CA glue. I keep meaning to buy some tape but never get around to it! Don't need it that often. I've found a constant feed through the saw minimizes the blade marks, as stopping and starting moves the wood from the fence ever so slightly
I was gonna say to use a sled, but then to build a super large sled for a project like that would feel like a waste unless you're constantly dealing with large work pieces or stock. This is a great idea that can be used in place of a large sled!
Great idea and super accurate way to get square. I’m just learning and my cuts are improving, although my joinery skills are no where near as good as they need to be. I’m actually building an equilateral triangle tabletop (60 degree angle) and couldn’t figure out how to cut it on my table saw (no sled and haven’t gotten into that yet). I used a guide track for cutting sheet material, with c clamps on each end, and my worm drive circular saw. (Poor mans track saw) I marked the cut line and measured meticulously the distance from the cut line to the edge of the saw base. It was much better than a hand cut, but still around 1/64th or so off. I’m glad what I’m building is rustic. LOL. I’ve done several triangular pieces, they’re quite challenging. Still learning, but quite different from square. Great video, thanks.
Ah,I thought it was gong to be a jointing sled. But this is very very convenient and universal (in terms of supporting the size of the project). Thanks again.
Nice! Just today I set up a complicated clamping scheme to hold a work piece on my radial arm saw (so I could make a dozen passes to rout a slot). I could have double-stuck the piece to the table! Dang, I shoulda watched your video yesterday...
Well, you’re not a phoney or a big fat screw up! Haha, Just in case you needed to hear that! Great job and I appreciate your video(s) and work you put in them. 👍
Another option I've used a lot is to use a level between the fence and the piece being cut. You push the wood and level forward and this will give you a straight edge since the level acts as a false straight edge. Just be sure to put the concave side against the level of it has one to prevent rocking. Don't need the level for cutting the opposite side. I put a straight edge on my recycled wood this way and works great. I should build aluminum jig for this that pushes locks the wood to the jig when pushing forward, just a small tab sticking out would work.
Great vid with simple solution. Was just thinking, wouldn't it also work to just have a larger piece of square plywood set so that it overlaps on two adjacent sides? Cut those straight and square then take off the plywood and square the parallel sides. The only reason this may be better is it removes potential error when retaping the boards for the side cuts.
Good job. I've worked with rough sawn lumber for years (stuff either I or a friend has made for me) and I attach a metal straight edge to the lumber and run it against the fence. I've straightened up to 12 ft. boards this way, it also works good on warped material. I'm always looking for new ideas!
Good Move. I just use my Tracksaw and a TSO Square to get the reference edge before I bring it to the table saw. If I didn’t have one this would be a good way to go.
At 1:24 in you show the offset ends. You could just shim out the short end, using thin cardstock or veneer, to make it flush with the long end to crosscut the opposite end square. I know lots of "ends" ...LOL. In your case, however you have an additional issue, the blade wasn't 90 degrees. So, you are fixing that as well. I don't know why your saw would not have been checked for that before hand ...... hmmmm? Nice tip on this video!
@@InspireWoodcraft no I guess I wasn't clear. You pointed out that you didn't cut ends to match and you figured out how to correct it. That's what I meant by a pro can correct his mistakes. No insult intended.
Great job with that! I've used that trick a few times, but not with double sided tape. I love that stuf from taytools. I need to get some of the 2" tape.
Very nice video and great use of double sided tape! At 3:40 on the video you don’t show using a square to line up the runners whereas at 5:35 in the video you show the use of a square in lining up the runners so they are straight and parallel. I guess an alternate method would be to use a circular saw on a track to get a straight cut. Keep up the great videos!
For a superior edge finish, use PSA Ø10" sanding media on disc. Look up on amazon: 10" table saw sanding disc. The sandpaper needs to have a big hole in the middle. You also won't get the tear-out at the corners.
