BRO TELL ME ABOUT IT NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I RING MY BELL, SO FEW PEOPLE LEAVE. BUT WHEN I FUCKIN SWEAK MY BREAKS, THEY START PANICKIN AND LEAVIN LIKE YEAH FOCK YOU
I'm a professional bike mechanic since over a decade and I agree with what is shown here. But the shimano pistons are many times the reason themselves because they leak an oil gets on the pads. So check your caliper if it is sweating. If so file a warranty claim.
@@WayStedYouI’ve got a pushbike in the shed and I’ve never done this, heard or seen of it being done. It isn’t a common thing for the average pushbike owner to do.
@@OpticMoos Just cuz it isn't common doesn't mean it isn't basic. Most people will just live with squeaky brakes rather than go out of their way to properly maintain them.
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 please think of the people living in these cities :( there were already enough noise without all those squeaky bikes :( I just heard another one by the time it took to write this comment ...
@@henryvalbuenabaez6915i just hang a bluetooth speaker on my handlebars and set the volume so u can hear it about 10 feet away while surrounded by loud vehicles. Classical music, metal, drum and bass, lets drivers who are blind to anything that isnt a car know im near.
@thenuckinfoob01 Shimano pistons are finicky at best... And hack videos like this just make more work for bike mechanics (so maybe I shouldn't comment, that way I get more work 😉)
Been doing it for years this way, never had an issue. I pushed back maguras, hopes, shimanos and srams and never had a piston-related issue. Just gotta have a feel for it can't be forcing it too much.
Plastic levers rather than metal is going to prevent huge problems. That was the first thing that caught my eye. Also, mine were contaminated and new pads worked for me.
As someone who works in a bikeshop i can tell you - in most of the cases unfortunately that doesn't work - it may helps for maybe 1 Kilometer but after that the Sound is back. If you use instead of a heatgun a blowtorch and burn the pads until they nearly start to melt then grinding them down a bit then i works most of the time but for the time you spent - cost of the tools and may accuring safety issues (maybe it loosens the glue between metallpart and the Brake Material) - you just can buy new Brake Pads thay cost just 5-10 bucks each...
legit. did the same thing with my ebike and I was so happy the squeak was gone the first 3 times I tested it but as soon as I rode home and had to brake it was back 😭 I need to buy new pads I tried it for a while by going down the steepest hills i could find and by repeatedly doing a full on emergency brake while going fast and after like 45 minutes I noticed the squeak was gone, i can brake the bike to a stop without squeaking, but I still need new pads
This actually works well. I had a customer, who pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.
@@alexzbarazky3038 I've had mixed luck. I've done alcohol soaks, hit it with some flame, squeal out, sandpaper, brake cleaner, you name it. I've done it for customers and told them I wouldn't charge for the service and if the problem persists to come in for new ones. Some swear it worked and I'll see them on a trail or on the road and some people don't even make it out the door before they started screeching and honking.
@@alexzbarazky3038the rotor is made of an anti-friction alloy and it deteriorates when overheated, so you need to be extremely careful when heating the rotor
LOL i thought at the end of the short they were still going to squeak. I have tried all this stuff and they end up making noise after soon after.... Now I just ride...
@@cataplt depends on the pads and the level of contamination. My friend's shimano pads cleaned up just fine, my tektro pads didn't get all that much better
@@cataplt Thing is, the pads have to coat there residue over the brake discs to work. There cant be any contamination on the discs of other things. If the brake pads have been coated in...idk mineral oil from the brake system there toast. Other then that follow the steps below. Go in gear 1 Pedal while braking pretty hard. You feel the bike isn't really slowing down a lot but it makes a ton of noise. Keep going. Let slowly loose of the brake while still in motion every 30 sec or so, for few seconds and break again (to let the disc cool a little). Go brake on and now you should feel the bike slowing down a little more while still making noise. Press the break a little less. Now you should feel it getting stronger and stronger and letting more loose of the brake. When the noise is pretty much gone. Bike around do this thing above like 3 times between some cycling around and the noise should be gone.
Great, now you’ve got reduced braking efficiency until the rotor re-acquires a coating of pad material and the pads wear enough to conform perfectly with the tramlines in the rotor surfaces. The noise is generated by the leading edge of the pad “grabbing” the disc. The pad then sets up an oscillating motion within the caliper which creates the noise and increases wear rate of the pad and caliper thrust faces. To avoid or cure it just file a 45 degree chamfer on the leading edge of both pads (the edge that a point on the rotor would meet first when travelling forwards). Then apply a just visible trace of copper grease to the pad backplate surface where it contacts the piston or caliper body, but not to it’s edges. The chamfer avoids the initial grab that sets off the resonance and the copper grease provides a small measure of damping and isolation medium to change the overall system’s resonant frequency. This is something that used to be taught to every apprentice mechanic back in the 70’s when disc brakes started to become commonplace on vehicles. It works, it also gives a much more progressive feel to the braking action, avoiding “grabbiness” on initial application of the brake.
@@joelcelinder9545I changed both disc (different shape) and pads at the front. The noise came back after 500km😢 efficiency iscalso decreasing. Rear side remains silent.
that's easy fixed with some fine clay in water, just coat the rotor in a thin coat & the pads bed in instantly. I prefer the yellow clay that we have in some of the hilly parts of Yorkshire, but any of the finer natural boulder clays should do it.
The handful of times I've had to resurface my pads, I used a sanding screen so the material could fall away from the pad surface and not be ground back into it. Doing that eliminated the need to clean and heat the pads in every case.
Guy also resurfaced the pads and cross-hatched the rotor. It’s a good tip. Takes the glazing off the pads and rotor which is what causes the squeak. I’ve done it on a wet clutch on my race bike when I was having issues with slipping and it cleared that issue right up. Grabs like nobodies business
Brakes pads work by transferring part of the friction material onto the rotor. It’s all part of the bedding in process. By sanding the rotor you just reduce the braking efficiency until they bed in again ( and start to resonate once more)
Actually, the resonating is caused by dust that did not adhere to the disc surface. So clean the dust from the pads and discs with a clean cloth. That's all. No sand paper or blow dryer.
@@damianchristopher205 I think grease would be more efficient. WD40 just dries too quicky. Who has the time to lube the brake disc and pads once a week?
I just pull the pads out. Wipe the pads and rotor down with break cleaner. Blowtorch the pads for a couple of seconds then put them back. Works every time. If needed to fix them in the field, find a slope, pedal hard down hill while breaking. High heat is the key.
"works every time".. and this is the problem, that it repatadly is coming back :) I dont care about the sound anymore.. too much work for something you get back within a few rides.
@@bronsonstephens5799 you can only get the oils in the pads to go away by burning them. you need the pads to get hot enough to ignite the oil that's contaminating them.
@@bronsonstephens5799 it is not to burn up residue, but new pads have to be "burned in" so they wont squeak so soon. This creates something like a "matching pattern" on both the pad and rotor. If sand and contamination ruins this, noise starts. If you do not "ride in" the pads, you will brake hard 1-2 times and your brakes will start squeaking again. Some shops have machine for this to do it in a minute. Good videos on youtube how it is done "manually" on a hill or if you have some legs, on the flat.
NEVER USE TOOLS WITH OUT THE PADS IN ON CERAMIC PISTONS! If you don't have the pads in you will Crack your pistons. Trust me, I cracked 2 of mine that way.
@@NonLegitNation2 yes lol, those 4 pod xts are a nightmare to work on, as those pistons just break when you look at them... I think even the deores have ceramic if I'm not completely blind... I thought the 4 pod 6120 I have lying around have ceramic, but I'm not completely sure... And those are not really pricey.
And those shitty ceramic pistons even crack with the right tools, even with pads in, without pads and with plastic lever, they always crack... Doesn't matter what you do, you have to press them back in straight, if they go in just a little bit crooked, they are gonna break. Really annoying to get the shards out again, right mate? 😂
@@ironeinar Yeah, really annoying. in my case, I got a set of 8120s for free, so I didn't mind as much, but the shards were everywhere! the hardest part was getting the ceramic dust out of the fluid ports where the mineral oil would normally flow, a good bleed kit and an air compressor got the job done!
@@owenadair8893 yeah thats so annoying, im happy that I dont have to encounter this problem on my personal brakes, because I run Shigura, but my boss in the shop, who serviced hundrets of ceramic pistons still has problems not breaking the pistons while pushing them back in xD
If you get brake cleaner on the calipers or forks it can remove the paint and damage the protective finish. 30 seconds of work to pull the pads out to clean them. Or better yet just replace squeaking pads.
I had to teach my lady something similar about wiper blades. We were driving in the rain for hours and the wipers started making noise and she thought she had to change them again, only a few weeks in… I stopped at a filling station (gas station for my US gang) and I cleaned the windshield and the wiper blades and everything was back to normal
I clean my wipers all the time(I live in the NW) and it helps so much especially with the water on the roads splashing up that has dirt/oil in it which really gets them dirty
El problema de ruido se soluciona limpiando pero también es porque las pastillas están rozando el disco de forma dispareja y se debe centrar correctamente la mordaza.
Shimano Hydraulics are extremely easy to rectify if there’s any brake rub. The tough ones are Magura as the disc is often so thick that the tolerance for smooth running is very small, in fact near impossible when the brake pads and discs are both brand new
depends on the brake. BR-4770 and BR-RX400 have almost no clearance in them, so it's nearly impossible to get them to stop rubbing when new. they do get a bit better after being broken in.
Little side-note: don't push the pistons back with al wrench, prefer something softer, like a plastic tirespoon. Shimano uses in some of the calipers ceramic cups! Ceramic cups wil break and will leak.
I find most of my brake noise goes away just by wiping down the rotor with some alcohol. I would consider this a level 2 procedure. If you resurface the pads/rotor, you'll also want to make sure the pads are bedded in properly too.
@@IRIS.3111 The rotor can be cleaned off with solvent. For the brake pads, you'll need to remove them from the calipers, then using some pliers to hold them, cook off the contaminants with a propane torch.
Just a FYI you should always sand against the pad path. Going with will create grooves that could and will groove your pads. Going against will aid in grip and also allow the pad to knock down the high spots over time.
This is a good point! I like to spin the wheel and move the sand paper in and out across the braking surface while it spins, it creates a criss-crossing wave type pattern. This is what we do with vehicle rotors when they've just been cut on a lathe.
Через пол часа максимум скрип вернётся. Тут только замена колодок и тщательная очистка диска щеткой со стиральным порошком (в том числе в отверстиях диска), до состояния чистой воды и щетки. Иначе вся грязь из отверстий будет на ваших новых колодках.
Господа, вы же в курсе, чем по сути является скрип колодок при контакте с тормозным диском? Причина появления этого звука одинакова как в автомобильных колодках, так и в велосипедных. Наберитесь терпения, сейчас будет очень нудное повествование... Контактные поверхности пары колодка-поршень это металл, причем на колодке этот металл имеет эмалевое покрытие, предотвращающее контакт с металлом поршня. При торможении колодка ложится на диск/ротор и при не плотном прилегании к нему начинает вибрировать, что в совокупности с износом(отсутствием) эмали на обратной стороне колодки приводит к микротрению в паре поршень-колодка. Слышимый скрип это результат трения металла о металл и лечится восстановлением термостойкой и износостойкой эмали либо нанесением термостйкой, консистентной смазки на обраную сторону колодки. Прокаливание и зачистка рабочей повехности колодок, как отчищение диска/ротора, делается для удаления загрязнений, что в свою очередь уменьшает дополнительный износ пары колодка-диск/ротор, что в свою очередь позволяет избежать износа диска/ротора, что позволяет сохранить пятно контакта колодки большим и стабильным, что позволяет избежать появление шумов при торможении. Всё😊
Use copper grease on the back of the pad, ie where the pad contacts the cylinder. Obviously this needs to be done very carefully. I haven’t had any squeak since I started doing this.
This is done on motorcycles as well. This is the proper way to remove squeaking. Squeak is just a vibration. The grease helps the pad moving freely against the cylinder and the vibration is not generated. The copper grease just lasts longer on the pad. Can't believe this is so low in the comments
@@radelpaul11 I don't think there is aluminum on any part of the calipers, nor on the pads, nor on the pistons, if on the caliper itself . Maybe some brakes have them but I've never seen one
That almost never works! Most squeaking comes from the disk and pads, NOT the disk to cylinder contact face. Source: 30 years of trying different things on various machines
Heat the pads on a flame till they stop smoking... gets all the contamination out of the pad and clean the disc with soapy water..then brake clean... works a lot better than sandpaper ❤😊
I didnt know what to expect when following your steps but it actually helped immensely. Not only is the squeal gone, but the braking force is now 3x compared to what it was before. Great hack. thank you big time mate.
No. You just have to burn the pads for a minute. That's it. also the rotors are not sanded. first wipe with thinner or gasoline, then clean with degreasing detergent and rinse with plenty of water.
Even new brakes can squeak. It’s good practice to clean rotors and degrease pads before installation, and that’s half of what was done in this video. Doesn’t hurt to surface polish/sand the rotors and pads to remove any rough spots from handling, shipping, manufacture imperfections/poor tolerances.
Yeah. Sure. A company that has been making brakes and most other bike components for decades with thousands of engineers - should learn from a guy on the internet. Actually the pin works fine. It's not doing much - it's not actually holding the pads against the braking force (as you'll notice, none of car brake pads have a hole for either a pin or a screw). The holding is done by caliper body. Some of earlier brakes - for instance, the well-famous Avid Juicy series (3, 5, 7, Carbon) - didn't have a pin or screw at all - relied solely on placement of the pad in the caliper body and the metal spring. One of my bikes has these since 2005 - still work like a treat, even with abusive lack of maintenance.
@@JurisKankalis Cotter pins are a consumable item, they don't last forever. A good screw will last for as long as you take care of it. My bike has pads that are held in with a screw and it works like a charm.
@@lorraineschofield123 what is a castle nut and what is the cotter pin for? lol the cotterpin is to keep the nut from fully backing off. it does nothing to hold hubs or bearings.
Никаких натираний наждачкой диска! Просто протираем бензином/растворителем. А вот колодки лишь слегка чистим и прокаливаем (пока дымить будут). Ничего не разрушается. Три года назад делал так себе. И год назад доче. Совет мне этот дал один хороший товарищ.
Because most of the time the oil that contaminates them cant be fully removed and often the brakes are gonna squeak shortly after repairing them But in the bike shop I work in we do that too sometimes, and often it works. We do it a bit differently.
@@ironeinar nah, just soak them in isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner and it will absorb into the brake material (if it's resin) scrub them with a clean toothbrush and let them dry and you should be good. That's what i have always done with contaminated pads and it's always worked for me.
@@NonLegitNation2 yeah, sadly that won't work as I mostly use sintered pads, and the only thing that works well for me in this case, whilst almost having full braking power after, is to soak them in alcohol and light them on fire. Brake cleaner never works lol Most of the time in the shop we just switch out the pads for new ones, as it costs too much time to try to remove the contamination which sometimes doesn't even work. But as I said, works often so we're trying It as often as we can.
I one-hundred % agree with this procedure. The only thing I will be very careful with is using a plastic lever to push the pads apart. I recommend you put the pads back in and use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons back into the caliper. Other than that, this is excellent video advice. And I’m a professional bicycle mechanic for over 40 years.
Yes, it will work good while it is in your service, but when your client will warm up pads while riding , pads will release grease that is hidden inside and noise and weakness will be back. Best way to solve this problem - buy new pads and clean rotor, if you can't do it try to put your old pads in a boiling water for a while.
Organic or metallic pads contaminated with grease are rarely able to be fixed. Even with acetone and sanding, the contaminant has likely soaked throughout the whole thing and the problem will reoccur after some more wear. Don’t expect this to work all the time. If you attempt, use tons of acetone and let them soak for a long time, multiple times.
A hack would be like a 3 sec fix, by spraying, or adding something to the breaks, or doing a minor adjustment to remove the squeaky sound. This is just normal maintenance. Either way, its good instructions for maintenance and its satisfying to watch.
The solution for me was one I wasn't expecting at all. I performed a brake bleed and the squeal from my front rotor disappeared. I'd tried all the typical solutions before and had given up on the issue. However I performed the brake bleed and the noise went away. My theory is that air in the line was preventing my brake pads from making contact as hard as they should which is now no longer the case.
I go back and forth on rim versus disc brakes. Rim: ✅ Low maintenance, cheap, easy adjustment. ❌ Rain or wetness easy to get on rim and affects stopping power Disc: ✅ Hydraulic stopping power has nice performance, not as affected by wet conditions ❌ Maintenance can be tougher Disc brakes are great for road or mtn bikes where the higher end user can make use of the hydraulic power, nice light finger tip control for great stopping power. Rim I would argue still has a place for cheap and easy maintenance. Disc brakes maintenance isn't necessarily tough, just avoid contamination, can avoid doing the steps in this video. 👍
This doesn’t work unless the squeak is caused by a slight contamination. Usually the brakes squeak when the pads have not been bedded in properly. The only solution is new pads and bed them in properly. If that’s the case
