Stacey shows you how you can relocate the gas tank from the cab to under the bed of your tricked out truck with the help from a tank relocation kit from LMC Truck. staceydavid.com/black-book/lmc-truck
My brother found one for sale thats all original numbers matching on everything. But its a barn find so to speak. Needs boat load of body work but nothing to bad. Only need to replace the floor pans. Everything else is good. Truck runs and drives but is in major need of a tune up. Can't wait to go get it. Been dying to have ome for a long time.
stacy...your still the man.....great vid...oh by the way...just got a 67 c-10 bar....n, lol find..and she has good bones..and she is a step side...so look forward to sharing with you!!
The only thing I dislike about te 68-72s is that downward slope of the line on the bed going back... They should re-pop them where that line stays level. Always looked droopy / melting to me.
Not much. The top of the seat hit the back of the cab with the old tank in there. It was wedge shaped. Spot is only really good for speakers or a few rolls of charmin
My ultimate modification on a 1954 Chevrolet 3100 is to keep original behind the seat fuel but change it out to a new same one and add an under the bed fuel tank stainless steel. My old pickup had dual fuel tanks and liked that option I would put the filler tube for under the bed in the middle of the bumper and put a spring loaded license plate bracket over it. Thanks
Brian Burgett probably close to 16 gallons to a 20 gal. Most people opt for the larger 25 or 31 gal tank but you have to remove that rear frame brace. He’s using a smaller one because it’s rectangle. The 25/31 is a square tank and much larger.
@@mrmidnight32 I'm pretty sure that there's a manufacturer that makes a 25/31 gallon tank that doesn't require the removal of the rear brace in order to fit in between the framework
Couldn't you use the tank from a Blazer of the same era, then use a side filler neck. At least then you could use your truck as a be truck, not just a cruiser.
Is it possible to reuse the gas cap and fill through the side of the bed? I don't think it would be convenient to fill through the bed floor. What if you actually use the bed and have a bunch of things or dirt?
Yes. LMC offers a side fill option, but it requires sheet metal work to put the filler neck through the side of the bed. More labor, but I think it’s worth it, especially if you’re already doing major body work/paint. On top of the bed floor filler being very inconvenient, I don’t like the idea of dragging a gas pump hose across my newly painted tailgate or the possibility of dribbling gasoline all over that beautiful new wood. Personally, I’m cool with the tank behind the seat. “Tank behind the seat” trucks have been on the road for well over 50 years and I’ve never heard one story of that being an issue in an accident. Unlike today’s trucks, these are made of steel, not tin foil. These things are tanks by today’s standards. People forget that. It’s not a Ford Pinto, but if you move that tank to the rear of the frame, you’ve just made it one.
Modern trucks have the gas tank run between the frame rails alongside the driveshaft. I'd think that would be a better solution, tho the truck arm suspension probably makes that a no-go. @@ronster6656
Yeah, I don’t think you could pull that off without switching to a leaf spring suspension and you’d still have to stick that filler neck through the bed side.
The bodywork to put the filler neck through the bedside is of no concern to me; I work at a paint shop. :p But yeah I'd be resistant to swapping to leaves. @@ronster6656
@@ronster6656 I am with you. I am in the process of redoing the wood on my bed and I see no reason to relocate the gas tank. I like it right where it is.
Why not just buy a '69 Camaro tank and install it in the rear spare tire location. If you mount it far enough back you can put the filler neck behind your license plate. Then find a fold down license plate mount to access the filler neck. No cutting holes in the bed or quarter panel.
I like you thought Camaro tank. I remember in high school 1972 that all those rear fill cars had a terrible time with full tank under hard acceleration spit a gallon of gas. Not costly at 35 cents a gallon.
When I get ready to do mine I'm just going to pay someone to cut bed and frame reuse bed 8 inches in rear on long bed actually looks more natural than swb.
Well, it's more protected in a crash than hanging under the back end. I'm assuming that was the logic. But yeah....if I had one I'd want to relocate it out of the cab.
Stacy, I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L that I volunteer to have rebuilt to your imagination. Will transport it, and allow any advertisement/publication that your comapany wants. I've watched on and off since the "COPPERHEAD" build back in the day. I was exstatic to find your show on RU-vid recently. My idea is to turn my truck into a offroad/woods truck. Thank you for the many years of entertainment and education. Thanks to you, I know how to turn a wrench on my own vehicles. Your show rocks, and you have a loyal fan for life! Good luck to you, sir!
@@maggs131 Sure, but I figure just behind the cab under the bed would make sense. Instead of specifically in the area of maximum damage in a rear end situation.
@@9lbloodnolast873 it would be a better place as you've mentioned. The real reason its behind the bumper is years ago somebody figured out that a tank from a blazer from the same year would fit here and all these companies that reproduce it are to lazy to retrofit it further up in the frame away from rear impacts
@@caseyjp23 I ended up making two new barbed end hard lines with a filter in between and rubber hoses at all the connecting points. I used Notchhead clips to fasten to the frame. The vent line and roll over vent valve will go up in between the inner and outer skin of the bed and mount on a fabricated bracket on the inside of the inner bed wall safe and outta sight.
Jim Miranda these are more parts commercials than a how to show. Learned that once I tried using this to build a couple cars. They give just enough info for you to buy the tools and parts. But not enough to fully do the job.
Ummm is this not dangerous having the tank so close to the rear ? I dont trust a bolted up bed.. I would weld the crap out of it once it was all in place.
Ok I've kicked around relocating my fuel tank but I don't want to fill thru the bed as I never know what I might have in it. Does anyone know of a solution?
So I have a question, what is wrong with it being a long wheel base? Nothing, I'd rather have a long bed than a short bed, you can haul more and it's factory. That's just my opinion and I think factory is way better 🤘🤘🤘🤘
@@OfficialStaceyDavid that's because they get brain washed watching it get cut up thinking it look's good, but if it came that way so be it. I'll always like a long bed and a short bed because mine are factory. But I guess some people can't appreciate an original. Thank's #stacydavid
its not the part cost that is bad... its shipping and labor. if you can afford parts is because you work all day and will never have time to do the work yourself.....
I thought the same thing. A guy with bills and a job can’t afford to fabricate all of this. The most one could do is a 4 inch lift with spacers and shocks then basic maintenance
I'm 67 and retired. Just like when I owned a Cadillac. If you want to drive a classic,prepare to pay for a classic. Hurts all types of car guys when you see trucks that cost $4,000 in 71 sell for $85,000 today.
Leave the original factory tank by removing the factory tank you messing up the originality of the truck. Thanks back then the design team agreed on behind the seat fuel tank.😇